27/08/2016: The Ultralight Bush Chair

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-air-beam-inflatable-pack-frame-update/

11/06/2016: A Soft Pillow and a Warm Bed Under the Stars: Comfort. That’s what it’s really all about. A few extra ounces ought not to be sacrificed to inadequate rest. That’s why we always carry our Cyclone Chairs (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/cyclone-chair/) @ 180 grams so we can really enjoy the time at the end of the day. We use Thermarest Neoair Xlite Women’s (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/new-hiking-mat-425g/) sleeping mats @ 340 grams and Exped UL Pillows @ 45 grams (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/exped-ultralight-pillow/)

It is important to always have enough clothes/adequate sleeping bags so you are toasty warm all night (without sweating, which will ruin the insulative ability of your clothes, bag etc). We have found the Montbell range lightweight and excellent (http://www.montbell.us/) such as their ‘Thermawrap series of coats and vests in synthetic and their ultra light down range such as the ‘Superior’ and ‘Ex Light’ eg http://www.montbell.us/products/disp.php?cat_id=2001&p_id=2301218&gen_cd=1 which can weigh as little as 156 grams. For sleeping I like their Ultralight Super Spiral Down Hugger #3 bag (@-1C & 595 grams) myself.

When the temperature drops below freezing I put a coat on the top half of my body and a vest on the lower half. This takes pone down at least another 5-10C without carrying any extra weight. A warmer sleeping bag will also likely be too warm for usual camping conditions in Australia. When it gets really cold the bag has a draw string which can be pulled in so only your mouth and the bottom of your nose are poking out. NEVER breathe in your bag! I also own a pair of down sock such as these https://goosefeetgear.com/products/1-down-socks if my tootsies should feel the chill.

Of course we have a dry tent (such as this http://www.theultralighthiker.com/honey-i-shrank-the-tent/) and a warm fire out front, and of course two dogs for when it is a ‘two-dog night’!

WARM CLOTHES: I had for many years carried an insulated coat lined with an artificial material because (even though heavier than down) such materials would maintain insulation even when wet. Mind you it is not being wet which makes you cold, it is your body’s ability to quickly evaporate the water which robs you of heat – and exposure to the wind. Wool, though heavy is a great material as it slows such evaporation and continues to insulate even when sodden – but today, there are lighter (though BEWARE more flammable) materials. NB: No matter how good your raincoat – EXPECT to get soaked sometimes: I can remember getting bowled over in an icy crossing of the Thomson River one July many years ago and getting everything utterly drowned in water @ maybe 2C and air at probably -<10C. I WAS cold for a while, but as I said before, artificial insulation maintains its insulative effect even when wet – and quickly dries out. It distracted me from getting to that crucial deer ‘bail-up’ for a few minutes while I dried my radio out – enough time for the deer (it WAS always a stag!) to make good its escape! A Snugpak ‘Airpak’ coat (@600 grams) was really good for this and would keep you warm down to the C negs. Their lightweight sleeping bags were also great – if you were likely to get them wet. For a number of years now I have carried two lighter artificial insulation garments: a vest AND a coat (@ < 400 grams between them; they were Coccoon brand, no longer available) because sometimes your really warm coat is just overkill while NO coat is too cold - & fortunately I have an ample sufficiency of adipose to keep me warm – the sylph-like Della IS a much colder person/sleeper etc, for contrast. Montbell’s ‘Thermawrap’ synthetic insulated garments are good for this. As I have become more confident in the qualities of my eVent raincoat and of ‘Sea to Summit’s ‘Ultra Sil’ liners to keep gear in my backpack dry (even when underwater, which it has been many times - eg swimming the mighty Seaforth River in Fiordland in late autumn) I am leaning more to down again (as NOTHING beats the best eg 1000 fill power down for insulative ability per unit weight. Montbell are at the van again here eg with their new ‘Plasma’ (http://www.montbell.us/products/disp.php?cat_id=70&p_id=2301460) ‘Ex Light’ and ‘Mirage’ jackets . Some companies eg Patagonia are now making 1000 fill power ‘water repellent’ down garments for weight to insulation ratio. Again a light vest plus a light jacket may serve better than one heavy jacket which can be TOO hot. (NB The fill power is the number of cubic inches an ounce of down will expand to - ergo the higher the number the greater is the amount of trapped air, so the greater insulative ability. NOTHING under 800 should be contemplated!)

10/06/2016: Andrew Skurka on Down versus synthetic:

‘Down and synthetics both have pros and cons. Down is:

Warmer for its weight,
More compressible, and
Longer-lasting.

Synthetics are:

Less expensive,
More humane (no live plucking), and
Less adversely affected by moisture.

In specific regard to the issue of moisture sensitivity, I want to point out that synthetic insulations are absolutely not “warm when wet” like is often claimed. Moreover, down is so much more thermally efficient that even moisture-degraded down will be as warm for its weight as dry synthetic insulation. Finally, I’ve never had my down insulation get truly wet. Damp from high humidity, yes, but never wet from, say, having worn it in the rain or fording a river — that’s what my rain jacket and pack liner are for.

With the introduction of water-resistant down a few years ago, synthetics lost much of their wet-weather advantage. So now it’s mostly a cost and ethical consideration.

With few exceptions my preference is down. It’s the superior insulation, especially as one who tends to backpack in dry environments and as someone who can justify their purchases with extensive use. And, equally important, down is a better long-term investment — my heavily-used down pieces are almost as warm now as they were when new, whereas my synthetic-fill pieces are limp, lifeless, and needing replacement after just a season of daily use.’ http://andrewskurka.com/2015/backpacking-clothing-stop-insulated-jacket-pants/

29/12/2013: A pair of hiking pants which you can wear for 365 days and even sleep in which weigh 75 grams and a raincoat that you can ALSO sleep in @ 123 grams. That's REAL weight saving: http://hikelighter.com/2012/01/26/montbell-dynamo-wind-pants/ & http://hikelighter.com/2013/11/07/zpacks-rain-jacket/

Update: I bought a pair of these trous as a dry change pair and for sleeping in – and they are fine. Montbell also make a matching top which is unfortunately not available in my size, but in Della’s weighs about 50 grams! 125 grams for a dry change is spectacular!

30/10/2014: In the States lots of people are contracting Lyme disease (http://sectionhiker.com/hiking-and-lyme-disease-revised-estimates-from-the-cdc-indicate-us-infection-rate-is-10-times-more-prevalent-than-previously-reported/) from infected ticks when hiking. The disease is not yet here, but we have plenty of ticks/leeches which can be unpleasant. Usually I just tuck the ends of my trousers into my socks, but a gaiter will also help prevent things from falling into the tops of your shoes. Trouble is, most gaiters are far too heavy and increase the energy needed for hiking enormously. There ARE a couple of ultra-light gaiters available however, which weigh less than two ounces per pair such as: http://sectionhiker.com/montbell-stretch-semi-long-spats-in-other-words-gaiters/ & http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=37&products_id=114

FIRE: Getting a fire going (in the rain and wet) is the most important thing you need to know - EVER. If you don’t know it, one day you will DIE from your ignorance. It will always be unexpected. Folks are always heading off for a day’s drive wearing shorts and tee shirts into the High Country (in summer) without a cigarette lighter or matches (one of the chiefest follies of non-smoking) AS IF blizzards can’t happen at 1000+ metres on ANY day of the year. They DO! Della & I ran into one on the South face of Mt Whitelaw in summer 2015. Sometimes they manage to keep their engines and heaters running long enough to survive…It IS also astonishing the numbers of people who manage to still die because they can’t figure out how to walk DOWNHILL; roughly speaking every drop of 100 metres equals a rise in temperature of 1C, so you can soon be out of sub-zero temperatures in Australia (which is what we did!). The brother of one of our putative Prime Minister’s managed to die in this way a few years back – leading me to question the genetic basis of his suitability for high office! Also, it is quite hard to die of cold if you keep moving. An old hunter’s trick (eg if you get ‘bluffed out’, or for some other reason have to spend the night out without a tent or fire), is to just keep walking all night, eg around a tree, keeping in contact with it with your fingers at arms length. It is a good idea to change rotation every now and then to avoid dizziness. The theory is this keeps you warm and alive and still knowing where you are, and avoids you falling off a cliff etc. An old friend of mine told me his sergeant kept his group alive in the Korean War by marching them around in a river one night when the air temperature was minus 30C – as they had no overcoats; we often manage to send our troops of to war like this! He also told me that he had never been able to run so fast (I believed him!) as when a couple of thirty calibre machine gun bullets stitched through his torso, an experience I hope I never have to repeat! Rather than face collapse from exhaustion though, it is better still to be able to find/make shelter and warmth. Being able to light a fire can also save you if there is a bushfire approaching. In such an event light a fire and move onto the burnt area as soon as you can – and GET DOWN, eg dig a hole and bury yourself: RADIANT heat KILLS! Worry about the legality later – if you survive! Similarly, if you are sheltering from a bushfire in a river, try to lie in the water with your head on the shore, with one of your (wet) garments over your face. Lack of oxygen in a fire front often means you will pass out, so you don’t want to escape burning only to drown! Wool is also the best protection from the danger of being burnt to death in a bushfire.

FIRE LIGHTING: The same old friend, Ray Quinney taught me how to light a fire in the wet – and many other things, eg the Spanish Windlass, Cobb & Co Hitch & etc, etc. Lighting a fire in the rain is VERY difficult. In the wet is bad enough. Clearly you first have to have a cigarette lighter (I always carry a mini BIC – or several!). Keep it dry if you can - as when the flint is wet it won’t throw a spark to ignite the gas until the flint dries out (it will – under your arm or keep trying under your raincoat, etc). If you are hiking keep it in a mini snap-lock with a couple of esbits or a piece of bicycle inner tube – anything which burns well and steadily, and will do so when wet! Rubber is good because it doesn’t break up and disappear, so it will always be in your kit – until used! Some old-timers used to thread a section of it on their belt – a good idea! Never mind about the bit of black smoke! Pollution OR Death! You should remove the childproof nanny state gadget with a pair of needle nose pliers etc as soon as you buy the lighters, it as it makes it just abut impossible to use. Then you have to have something dry to burn and somewhere out of the rain to burn it. If it’s cold and wet, don’t worry about how big a fire it is: it won’t get away. If there is a large fallen tree, or trees nearby set fire to the whole thing. You can’t have too much fire when it’s really cold. (Of course if you have what I call a ‘fire tent’ it is a different matter. More about that later). On a wet day as you move along you have to be constantly on the lookout for any dry kindling. The underbark of some trees such as Stringy Bark on the lee side or the underside of branches is good. Roll it between your hands and it fluffs up into really splendid tinder. Look for dry leaves, twigs etc blown into hollow logs or trees & dry hanging branches – particularly of eucalypts – timber becomes quickly sodden once it is lying on the wet forest floor, collect them eg in a waterproof bag as you travel along. A supermarket bag is good for this and weighs practically nothing. If it is raining heavily you may have to light your fire in a fallen hollow log (NEVER in a standing hollow tree – it WILL fall and kill you!) or under a log where the fire will not be put out by the rain when it is still small. You may even have to construct a shelter for your fire (a tarp is good but you need to allow distance between the material and the fire and it needs to be open enough so that smoke can get away. You may have to split twigs eg with your knife to get enough dry kindling. You have to start really small (out of the wind) and slowly work your way up. Avoid the temptation to add too much fuel at one time and smother the fire. You may get only this one chance, so take your time.

Excelsior

18/08/2016: Lighting a Fire on the Snow:

Image source: Lunaticoutpost.com

Obviously you can light a fire on the snow but it will quickly melt the snow, sink into it and go out. And this is just when you most need a fire, so what to do? Find somewhere clear of snow is the easiest choice: often there is little or no snow under trees. It is anyway easier to clear a space down to the ground there, being sure to shake down snow from overhead branches as well. As you pile up snow to the outside it may also be possible to create a tipi-like (windward) shelter with a dry floor out of branches laid against the trunk to enhance the warmth of the fire (but be sure not to suffocate yourself).

If the snow is very deep you will need some kind of platform for the fire to rest on. Lots of folks suggest stones - but they are likely a long way down in this circumstance, and you are likely cold and in a hurry. A raft of wet wood is the best idea, the thicker the better, then you proceed to light the fire in the normal way starting with tinder and the smallest driest pieces and working your way upwards. Have all your fire materials ready assembled before you strike the first spark: you definitely may only get one chance at this – and it may well be your last! Follow the instructions here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/how-to-light-a-fire-in-the-wet/ and here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-Campfires-the-Right-Way-without-Fire-Star/?ALLSTEPS See also: http://www.outdoorlife.com/blogs/survivalist/2013/03/survival-skills-how-build-fire-snow & http://www.offthegridnews.com/extreme-survival/the-simple-way-to-start-a-fire-in-the-snow/ & etc…

PS: 'Fire on the Snow' was the title of a great radio play by the (late) Australian poet Douglas Stewart about the ill-fated 1912 Scott expedition. You can listen to it here: http://trove.nla.gov.au/work/11851529

30/08/2015: Duct Tape Fire Starter:

Fire starters are easily lit and are created to sustain a flame while the tinder placed above it catches fire. In lieu of fire starters, selecting a good material for tinder can be an asset. Small strips of tire inner-tube work well. I have carried one for more years than I can recall. Surprisingly you can make use of duct tape for this purpose.

You can take a 2 inch square of tape and drape it over a piece of tinder and place more tinder over it. Then you can light an edge with a match or lighter. Once it catches on fire it burns with a sooty but strong flame. To provide a longer burn time you can create a free-standing candle with it.

You can carry a length eg spooled on your water bottle. If it doesn’t get used for fire starting it may have some other use for repairs. I I imagine other tape (Tyvek, Cuben, etc) burns quite well too.

31/07/2015: A further use for drinking straws: emergency fire starter storage: http://www.instructables.com/id/Fire-Tube-Drinking-Straw-Hack/

17/04/2013: WOODCHOPPING: A tip I learned from my late friend, Col Francis: don’t cut the block as you would a tomato or an orange; peel it like an onion: ie work your way in from the outside...

18/09/2015: Improvised Bow Saw: You can make an improvised bow saw from a bent branch and a couple of large key rings (or similar) I noticed Erin & Hig used small carabiners in Ben Fogle’s New Lives in the Wild Episode 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOUcDt96IrU Since a bow saw blade itself only weighs 50-100 grams, this could be a useful addition to a wilderness camp. Many areas in the Victorian bush are a bit light on short pieces of firewood since the bushfires cleared much of this debris. By the same token those same fires have killed and brought down so many trees, there is an ample supply of longer pieces of firewood. This cooked hardwood burns more like pine though, so be warned you need at least twice as much of it as unburned wood. For other info see: http://willowhavenoutdoor.com/featured-wilderness-survival-blog-entries/fat-guys-in-the-woods-blog-skill-series-make-an-improvised-bow-saw/ & http://rockymountainbushcraft.blogspot.com.au/2012/05/how-to-make-primitive-bow-saw-in.html

01/08/2014: Critters so often seem to be smarter than WE are. There was a simply terrible wind blowing yesterday (from the NW). Going round the lambs in the morning on our steep NW facing slope in many paces you were like to take off. Other spots which LOOK identical were completely still and @10C warmer – which is where the sheep chose to lamb. I have noticed this before on the dreadfully exposed flats we had at Yinnar and Kyabram where a shockingly cold, wet westerly wind swept all before it. The sheep/goats would nonetheless find that invisible spot amid the maelstrom which was dead calm to bed down. Of course they live outdoors in all weathers so it’s no surprise really they KNOW the best spots. Deer, of ourse do just the same. Pay attention to this fact and you will have more success hunting for their bedding spots! When you are out in the wild looking for a good place to camp, take off your coat so you can FEEL the wind and warm, and seek out just that calmer, warmer, drier spot where your tent won’t blow away in the hurricane. DON”T camp in a streambed or on top of a hill!

TYVEK ‘FIRE TENT’: We always camp in an open shelter (something like this) with an open fire out the front. SO warm and cozy even on cold,wet days. This shelter is very easy to make. It consists of a square of Tyvek ‘Homewrap’ (available Bunnings in 30 metre rolls for a bit over $150) 8’ x 8’ square. The ‘wings’ consist of another square the same size cut in half. One of these can be cut right off the roll; the other has to be sewn or stuck on (using Tyvek tape). (You end up with an isosceles triangle @ 16' x 23' x 16' on which you pitch like this. You can bring the 'wings' in towards the tree if rain/wind moves around to that direction - which it almost never does!) The tie-outs are tarp holders from Aussie’s. I have a more compact model (shorter wings) made out of .48oz/yd2 cuben fibre which weighs 200 grams! This is my ‘always’ emergency tent which goes with me everywhere – even on day walks: so often these can turn into an overnight trip. I HAVE spent a night sitting (on a piece of thick bark) in front of a fire in the open on frozen ground, in a light snowstorm wrapped only in one of those mylar ‘space blankets which fit inside your breast pocket (NEVER be without one!). It wasn’t very comfortable, and I didn’t get a LOT of sleep – but I AM still here to tell the tale. EXPECT things like this to happen to you, and BE prepared! Two of those ‘blankets’ can make quite a serviceable tent AND a sleeping bag. You will need some dental floss or similar to make tie-outs: simply lasso (& capture with the material) a rolled up ball of earth or a gum nut etc with the floss and you can tie out to trees, rocks or sticks driven into the ground. I always carry some dental floss in my first aid kit (and a self-threading needle – old eyes, you see) for making repairs to my clothes, (hounds sometimes!) – or myself!

Steve Hutcheson and myself Wonnangatta-Moroka Winter 2012

LAYING A FIRE: Notice in the photo above there is no silly RING of stones. There should NEVER be. Don’t go around making stupid obstacles for others to trip over and which only interfere with properly laying out a fire. It MIGHT sometimes be useful to make a fire up against a WALL of stones so that more of the heat is reflected back towards you. A back log works just as well, and doesn’t explode, or create an obstacle for others later on. One of the chiefest problems with bringing stones and fire together is that some stones really DO explode, and will send red-hot shrapnel into your eyes to permanently blind you –if you are silly enough to light a fire in a ring of stones. In this photograph, the backlog has nearly burned through. You will see that the fire has been laid out lengthways in front of us. This is what produces the most heat. Just lay each new piece of wood parallel to all the others and after a while you will have a nice long bed of coals which will make you toasty warm, particularly if you have something at your back like this Tyvek shelter (as here) to protect it from the cold wind (which seems always to be drawn to the fire)!

08/12/2014: FIRELIGHTING TIP: You know how when you are trying to light a fire (or Brasslite Stove – as pictured) with a cigarette lighter how you burn your fingers? A strip of bicycle inner tube will hold a Mini Bic (such as I carry – in a snap lock bag to keep it dry) in the On position and prevent this, and can be used as an excellent firelighter itself when kindling is very wet:

Shown: the excellent Brasslite (simmer alcohol) Stove approx 45 grams: http://brasslite.com/products/

KNIVES: I have decided on the desirability of carrying a fixed blade knife mainly for those rare occasions when it is necessary to split branches to produce dry kindling and shave them to produce ‘excelsior’ (wood shavings) which are THE BEST fire starter. Lighting a fire when it is VERY wet and cold is the most important time – and can save your life. You can’t really do this with a folder or any other of the ultra-light hiking options (eg Micro Leatherman – 50 grams, or Swiss card – 25 grams (though both are excellent multi tools for a variety of purposes; (eg the Leatherman has the best toe-nail cutting scissors in the WORLD!) You have to be able to split dry branches you can break into eg six inch pieces over your knee. (The lightest hatchet/machete is too heavy for emergency-only carrying at 4-500 grams – this is the best one: http://au.fiskars.com/Gardening-Yard-Care/Products/Wood-Branches/Forestry/126000-Brush-Hook as it will cut blackberries EASILY). You have to be able to hold the handle and tap on the end of the blade with another piece of wood, so the blade needs to be at least 3” long, and clearly this procedure would put a lot of stress on a folder. These two sites have some very light fixed blade knives (http://www.gofastandlight.com/Knives-Saws/products/20/ & http://kestrelknives.com/products/) Kestrel’s ‘Ultralighter’ would be hard to beat @ 11.6 grams though a 2 ¼” blade is quite minimalist, but should do the job in an emergency and would still butcher game or fillet a fish quite satisfactorily. It IS a bit pricey at $100 though, so I might opt to carry a little more weight and try out eg the Ka-Bar Adventure Piggyback Knife just over an ounce & $8.88 or the Ka-Bar ZK Acheron Skeleton Knife (with a 3 ½” blade also @30 grams) & $9.39 or the Mora Scout @ 85 grams including sheath - which is a bit heavy -$16.89. (Update: I bought both these Ka-Bar knives and they are excellent! Della is carrying one, and I, the other)

LST Ultralight

16/11/2014: Gerber Knives: For lightness (and cheapness) I recommend: http://au.gerbergear.com/Essentials/Knives/LST-Knife_46009 @ 34 grams, blade = 6.7cm (2¼”) & http://au.gerbergear.com/Essentials/Knives/Ultralight-LST-Knife_460502 @ 17 grams, blade = 5cm (1.9”) and their Pocket Sharpener http://www.knifecenter.com/item/GB4307/Gerber-Ceramic-Pocket-Sharpener @ 14 grams. Both knives PLUS the sharpener shouldn’t set you back more than @ $25!

14/11/2014: The Leatherman Micra is the greatest mini-tool I have encountered so far (@51 grams). I always have one in my pocket AND in my hiking pack. NOTHING I have discovered is as good for cutting one’s toe-nails – a vital safety precaution on multi-day hikes when toe-nail problems can lead to disaster! http://www.leatherman.com/20.html If you want to skip a few features (& a few grams) you might go for their skeletonised version: http://www.leatherman.com/24.html#start=21

14/05/2016: The Perfect Keychain Knife: Spyderco Honey Bee: This may be the perfect keychain knife. It is just a bit shorter than a Yale ‘C’ door key, so it fits in your fob pocket on your key ring perfectly. Yet it is an ever handy useful tool with its razor sharp blade, just right to open a bag or parcel, peel a fruit, dress a fish or rabbit, whittle a spoon, carve your name for posterity on a tree in the far wilderness, or whatever your imagination can lend it:

Overall Length	3.625 " (92 mm)	Blade Length	1.625 " (41 mm)	Steel	3Cr
Closed Length	2.063 " (52 mm)	Edge Length	1.375 " (35 mm)	Weight	.56 oz. (16 g)
Blade Thickness	.078 " (1.9 mm)	Handle	Stainless Steel

‘Spyderco’s micro-sized slipjoints are fully functional, impressively sharp folding knives that are very much at home on a keychain. Their stainless steel handles are the perfect palette for engraving or other embellishment and their Trademark Round Holes are much more user friendly than traditional nail nicks.’ https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=440

08/08/2014: SO many wonderful products are made from carbon fibre. I wonder whether airport scanners pick up THESE knives. On our recent trip to Cairns I had forgotten to remove my Schrade keychain knife yet the scanners didn’t pick it up despite its murderous 2” blade http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_store/item46-35468.html – no longer available. On recollection it seems I also had my Cardsharp (http://www.iainsinclair.com/en/cardsharp4-natural.html) in my wallet. Those security people are getting really sloppy. Mind you they DID check me for explosives! http://store.carbonfibergear.com/new-products?p=1

29/05/2014: THIS is simply the world’s greatest machete. If you don’t already own one, you MUST. It will make easy work even of removing blackberries: http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-7860-Brush-Axe/dp/B000F99IEU/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0FZ0KWXB63ZCG1ZHF906 I have the Gerber version (http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-31-000083-Gator-Brush-Trimmer/dp/B0025VKMI2) which is probably much the same (except IT comes in a handy cordura pouch). I sharpen mine withGerber’s 16 gram knife sharpener.

13/06/2016: Ultralight Knife Sharpener: OK, so you have your ultralight knife (eg the Kabar Johnson Adventure Piggyback I have recommended so often (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/carry-a-knife/) which you have used so many times for cutting up your lunch on the trail (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/lunch-on-the-trail/) or splitting twigs to make a fire in the wet (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/how-to-light-a-fire-in-the-wet/) , and it is blunt, so you need something even more ultralight to sharpen it. I have chosen some options below which are all under 20 grams so they won’t break your back carrying them against this eventuality:

piggyback

Eze-Lap Model S: 2-1/4″ Diamond D shaped shaft with groove for fishhooks. Opens to 5-7/16″. Stores in pen type cap. 19.5 grams. Sharpener without cap: 8 grams. I have carried and used mine like this for years (just the black bit in the photo below) http://eze-lap.com/hunting_fishing_outdoor_use/pocket-sharpeners/

Also available, their Model SD 2-1/2″ Diamond D Shaped Shaft with a groove for fishhooks with Hook Disgorger on the end. Handy.

And Model ST: A pocket sized sharpener with tapered shaft for serrated blades.

The DMT Diamond Mini-Sharp® Sharpener 17 grams: https://www.dmtsharp.com/sharpeners/pocket-models/mini-sharp/

The Lansky Mini Dog Bone Crock Stick Ceramic Knife Sharpener 19.4 grams

I particularly like this one as you don’t need to have any particular skill at knife sharpening. The Gerber Ceramic Pocket Sharpener 17 grams. I even use mine for touching up my machete, though it you want a really good edge (eg for skinning a sambar) you will need to finish off a bit.

Even lighter, a small piece of 2000grit or 2500grit sand (metal) paper wrapped around a stick works - or you could learn to use such things as a well worn stone from the stream (0 grams)! The old mountain men after all kept their knives sharp this way!

15/01/2016: Canoe clearing: When clearing trails or small rivers such as the Tanjil and Latrobe, Fiskars Xtract Pruning Saw & Fiskars Brush Thinner Machete are excellent tools. Both are lightweight and their cutting edge is protected so that it does not damage you or the canoe. If more people took them along when exploring eg the Tanjil, Latrobe or Tyers Rivers, we would soon have many days more of excellent paddling. These rivers have good summer flows when many of the bigger rivers (eg Mitchell-Wonnangatta, Macalister etc) havebecome unnavigable –as is the case at this summer. See also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-worlds-greatest-machete/

26/01/2014: NEVER have to sharpen your knife again: GREAT for hunting; these made useful gifts for myself and the two ‘boys’ @ US$34.95 on Amazon (105 grams): http://www.outdooredge.com/Razor-Blaze-p/razor-blaze.htm These little guys, the Gerber ‘E.A.B. Lite’ utilising a standard ‘Stanley’ knife blade (@67 grams) are very handy for everyday use: http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-31-000345-E-A-B-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002RILCLY

26/12/2013: Johnson Adventure Piggyback: Received one of these knives for Xmas. It is just brilliant: overall weight 36.5g, knife only 27.5g (US$12.27). Blade is definitely thick enough and strong enough to split kindling though its big brother, the ‘Zombie Acheron’ has a slightly longer blade. It would definitely butcher a sambar deer or any other use you could put it to. Its sheath has a lanyard hole so you can hang it around your neck and quickly access it with one hand. Would make interesting feminine jewellery/self-protection: http://www.kabar.com/knives/detail/198

Johnson Adventure® Piggyback®

11/06/2015: SMITHSONIAN MULTI-TOOL circa 1880: Even contains a PISTOL! Might be a little hard to lug around though. If you hanker to be a an ultralight hiker, you might decide to trim this down a little but, but the pistol could be handy for scaring bears – and other varmints on the trail, or to harvest some critter for the pot: http://gearjunkie.com/the-mother-of-multitools

Made around 1880 in Germany by John S. Holler

22/07/2015: Roman Swiss Army Knife: Category: tool/implement. Name: compound utensil. Date: 201 — 300 AD. Period: Middle Roman. Description: eating implement, folding, with three-pronged fork, spatula, pick, spike and knife. Production Place (legacy): Mediterranean, production, region. Material(s): iron; knife, silver. Dimension(s): height, 88, mm, max width, 155, mm, max http://webapps.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk/explorer/index.php?oid=70534

Roman Swiss Army Knife

15/07/2015: Can Knives get any lighter than this 3 Gram Knife: http://www.traildesigns.com/accessories/ultralight-knife It makes the ‘Dermasafe’ I posted about here (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dermasafe-ultralight-knives-and-saws/) positively cumbersome, as is the Gerber zip-Blade mini knife: http://www.countycomm.com/gdczipblade.html by comparison.

Trail Designs 3 Gram Mini Knife

Gerber Zip Blade.

Dermasafe 8 Gram Razor Knife

16/03/2016: Leatherman ‘Squirt’: I have long carried the Leatherman ‘Micra’ (still do). http://www.theultralighthiker.com/leatherman-micra-multitool/ This is the very best tool for cutting toenails on the trail. Also handy for a million and one other things: cutting up fish, splinters, opening bottles (you can use the bottle opener backwards as a can opener, repairing your glasses, etc. The ‘Squirt’ with its handy pair of pliers might come in handy for other repaiirs, or as a fishing tool etc if you do not need such a serious pair of scissors for your nails. Both tools are around 50 grams.

1.Springaction Needlenose Pliers 2. Spring-action Regular Pliers 3.Spring-action Wire Cutters 4. 420HC Knife 5. Spring-action Scissors 6. Flat/Phillips Screwdriver 7. Bottle Opener 8. Wood/Metal File 9. Medium Screwdriver

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/138-lumen-single-aaa-flashlight/

22/03/2016: Qu Quest for the Ultimate Ultralight Knife Never Ends: This offering (The Ti Minimalist’ with 2 5/8” – 67 mm blade) from Kestrel Knives gazumps my chosen Kabar Johnson River Piggyback (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/new-knife/) It weighs 14 grams including the sheath, compared to the Piggyback’s 36.5 grams. Of course it is also 10 times the price, so I probably won’t be making the switch soon. Still, there are always birthdays, etc: http://www.kestrelknives.com/shop/9tfpid32dziv4gubj2uve2nhwv4dsp This probably is about the lightest you can get which will still split small timber for fire lighting (a must in the backcountry!) See Also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/carry-a-knife/ & http://www.theultralighthiker.com/never-have-to-sharpen-your-knife-again/

Of course there are others in the same ball park, eg: Ultralight Titanium Knife Total Length: 7 3/4", Blade Length: 3 1/2",Weight of Knife: 1/2 oz, Weight of Sheath: 1/4 oz. https://www.etsy.com/listing/227733086/7-34-ultralight-titanium-knife?ref=related-1

Review: http://www.trailspace.com/gear/buck/hartsook-ultralite/#review31084 ‘On my scale, the knife alone is 12g, the lanyard is 5g, and the sheath is 10g for a total of 27g / .95 oz.’ http://www.buckknives.com/product/buck-hartsook-ultralite/0860BKS-B/

Izula Knives 2 2 oz: http://www.eseeknives.com/izula.htm

TENTS: Further to my post about being able to light a fire in the rain, I have also long toyed with the idea of carrying/constructing a fire rain hat or raincoat so that heavy rain doesn’t put out your fire. The two occasions when it is really important to be able to light a fire are when it is very wet and cold and when there is a bushfire approaching (so that you can create burned ground as a refuge!) On such occasions if you don’t have a lighter, or can’t light a fire you’re a dead duck. Smokers clearly have an advantage here over more sanctimonious folk, and even though I gave up smoking more than a generation ago (! – THERE is an interesting method of measuring TIME) I still always carry a ‘Mini-Bic’). We ALWAYS camp in a shelter which allows a fire outside. A tent is a cold, creeping thing to have to retreat to when you can sit/stand in a warm open shelter, drink rum, play games, read etc in front of a cheery fire – and with a warm back! If you pitch any rectangular tarp high you can have a (small) fire at one end (though the wind tends to catch the tarp if it isn’t pegged to the ground on at least 2/3 sides). I think it should be possible to suspend over the fire (eg a 1 metre square) diamond of eg ‘Tyvek’ @ 1.75 ounces /square yard and a melting point of 800C. You need to be careful that the fire can’t ignite its ‘roof’ or use it as a wick to ignite your tent, but this shouldn’t be much of a problem in the rain. Set-up obviously needs to be when furled (a couple of rubber bands should achieve this) so you can pitch it over the fire when it is already lit. Weight should be able to be kept to less than 3 ounces (90 grams) including stakes and guys. Tyvek, with its 800C melting point should make a good material for this ‘rain hat’.

10/11/2014: Two reasons some people don’t like camping: it is wet AND cold, and uncomfortable. This does not have to BE. A properly positioned tarp and a fire will take care of the former: the usual 1m tall hiking tent which you are forced to retreat to in the event of rain will make your trip unpleasant (wet & cold). For many years I have employed a square tarp (2.4 x 2.4 metres is sufficient) pitched diagonally against (eg) a tree with a fire out in front. I have added ‘wings’ to such a tarp to improve the shelter. You will have seen this in some of my previous posts. Scroll back through (http://www.finnsheep.com/Ultralight%20Hiking.htm) to see what I mean. As to the second: you need an inflatable INSULATED pad (a good ultralight pillow will also help) at least 2 ½” thick. I have found the Thermarest womens-neoair-xlite (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/mattresses/fast-and-light/womens-neoair-xlite/product) to be superb (R=3.9, 340 grams) but it IS expensive. If you are a bit shorter of cash (AND Stronger) Big Agnes’ pads @ R= 4.1 (eg the petite @ 499 grams) http://www.moontrail.com/bigagnes-insulatedaircorepads-78-mummy.php are quite wonderful! I would couple either with an Exped UL pillow (@ 45 grams) eg http://www.moontrail.com/exped-airpillow-ul-m.php ) and a good quality down bag for a delightful night’s sleep in the outdoors.

2. Our new TENT, (Thank you Della for the Father’s Day present!) z-pack’s hexamid solo plus tarp (http://www.zpacks.com/shelter/hexamid_plus.shtml = 176 grams) mated with their double poncho/groundsheet (http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/groundsheet_poncho.shtml = 173 grams), Total 349 grams plus guys and pegs and carbon fibre pole (57 grams) if not using a hiking pole, still totals less than 500 grams and includes a (spare) raincoat! Pretty light for a two-person tent! There are few other tents which weigh less than 500 grams for one, or under 750 grams for two people. Sea to Summit have a new tent range (pricey) http://www.seatosummit.com/products/display/161 the Single at 625 grams & the Double 826 ( 445 & 663 respectively if using hiking poles). Their products are usually very good. Other specialist ultralight tent manufacturers include Henry Shires’ ‘Tarptent’, Gossamer Gear, Mountain Laurel Designs…I have Gossamer Gear’s ‘take’ on the ‘Tarptent’ @ 800 grams, but it is a little narrow for the two of us and causes a little dampness from condensation around the tootsies. I have rigged Joe’s ‘Solo Plus with some stainless steel fishing ‘leader’ so I can stake it out pretty near the fire, so we can be nice and warm. Have to be a bit more careful with this than with Tyvek as it is nowhere near as impervious to melting/combustion – and was damned expensive!

08/02/2017: Hammock Pad Extender: Ed Speer hit on this lightweight way to ensure that you stay warm in your hammock many years ago. You could make this yourself in a lightweight nylon (eg .7 oz/yd2, such as this: http://www.tiergear.com.au/11/online-shop/argon-67) I don’t need the insulation for my knees as I always sleep on my bnack in a hammock, so mine would weigh half of the one shown in the photo ie less than a square yard of fabric plus two pieces of evazote 1 ½’ x 6”, so less tha 2 ounces anyway.

https://web.archive.org/web/20060115191541/http://www.speerhammocks.com/Products/SPE.htm

07/02/2017: DIY Netless hammock: Over the years we have made lots of hammocks, but we would have made a better job of we had followed some expert instructions. The following instructions and photos were kindly provided by Simon McGuire at Tier Gear, Australia’s own Hammock and Tarp manufacturer and Outfitter. See them for all the materials needed to build this and many other projects. If you do not feel up to building your own, you can purchase the completed items at a very reasonable price and with speedy delivery for your next big trip. This looks to me to be a very sound lightweight hammock and tarp duo - see: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/make-your-own-tarp-or-hammock/ which should serve you well on many a camping/hunting trip. I am particularly impressed by the suspension system. NB; the fixed or adjustable centre line is a great addition to comfort too.

Tier Gear: http://www.tiergear.com.au/

Above: the Goshawk hammock. This is what your completed hammock should look like (minus the insect netting).

‘Part 1 - Sewing the hammock body

Tools required:
a. Sharp scissors or rotary cutter
b. Fabric marking pencil or similar
c. Measuring tape or ruler
d. Long straight edge
e. Sewing machine

Materials used:

A good quality polyester or nylon fabric. In this instance I used Argon 1.6 which is a ripstop nylon designed specifically for hammocks.
Good quality sewing thread. Gutermann's Mara 70 would be a popular choice for the DIYer as would Rasant 75.

Procedure

Cut your fabric to the length you require, taking into account the end channels and some loss of length when you gather the hammock. For a 3.3metres length hammock I start with 3.6 metres of fabric, as my end channels take up 100mm at each end and there is also some loss when the hammock is gathered. Fabric width is usually around 1500mm.

Sew a rolled hem along both long sides. Start by folding the edge over once, and then over again. My hems are usually around 10mm in width but you can go bigger or smaller. Start by sewing along the inside edge of your hem. A single line of stitching is adequate but a second line of stitching adds a professional touch, and some extra reinforcement to your hem. The second line of stitching should be just inside the outside edge of the fabric.
Repeat Step 2 on the other side of your fabric. Once finished the hem on both sides it's time for the end channels to be sewn on the short sides of the fabric.4. There are a number of ways to sew the end channels. I measure down 100mm from the end of the fabric and mark a line across the width of the fabric. I then take the end of the fabric and fold it over so that it is a couple of mm before the marked line. Now I fold the end of the fabric over again to just past the raw edge and this time right on the marked line. This hides the raw edge inside the channel, and gives you four layers of fabric making up your channel at a width of about 25mm. If you are going to use the end channels to run your suspension directly through then this end channel may be made larger if required.5. Now you are going to sew the end channel down. Depending on how you are going to gather the hammock you will need to sew at least 2 lines of stitching, though 1 would be adequate, or 3 if you are going to run the suspension through the channel and hence making the stitching on the end channel weight bearing. I do not run the suspension through the end channel so I only sew 2 lines of stitching.6. Sew the first line of stitching along the inside edge of the end channel, and then the second line of stitching 4-5mm inside of the this. This second line of stitching ensure you capture the raw edge of the fabric inside the end channel.
Repeat steps 4-6 at the other end of the fabric.8. Congratulations that is your hammock body sewn. Basically I could have broken it down to: sew a rolled hem on both long sides, then sew a bigger rolled hem along the short sides and then gather - job done! It really is that simple.

Part 2: Gathering the hammock, and attaching the suspension

Once your hammock is sewn the next step is gathering the ends. There are numerous ways to do this, including methods which don't require the sewing of end channels in your fabric but I will leave those methods to people who have experience with them. These methods require the sewing of an end channel as detailed in part 1 of making a net-less camping hammock.

Essentially when gathering the ends of your hammock, you are simply inserting something through the channel and tightening it in order to essentially a ball of fabric.

Method 1:

The first method involves running your suspension directly through the channel e.g. your whoopie sling or continuous loop, and cinching tight. This produces a clean looking finish, and is the method probably most commonly used by camping hammock manufacturers. This method places stress on the end channel stitching so you want to ensure you lay down some solid stitches, and have at least 3 parallel rows using quality sewing thread. It is not recommended for lightweight fabrics, where failures have been known to occur. It also produces a consistent gather of the hammock without much fuss.

If attaching a whoopie sling insert the fixed loop through the end channel

Run the adjustable loop of the whoopie through the fixed loop

Cinch tight and you are done. (Note: in the photo below there is only 2 rows of stitches, 3 are recommended for this method)

Method 2:

This method involves running a cord, or some people use a cable (zip) tie, to gather the ends. Your suspension, e.g. whoopie sling or fixed loop, is then girth hitched over the hammock fabric below the gather you have just created. The gather prevents the suspension from slipping off the end of the hammock. This method does not place any stress on your end channel stitching, and is fine to use on lightweight fabrics as well as heavier fabrics. There is some minor fiddling required when attaching your suspension to ensure a consistent gather of the fabric. If you like being able to change out your suspension quickly or play with different setups this is the method for you.

Insert cord through end channel. In this instance I am using 2mm VB cord.

Next you can tie a knot as per Knotty's method on Hammock Forums, insert a cable (zip) tie, or use a small cord lock as I have done below.

The cord lock method leaves a length of cord, depending on how long you cut it, I use around 600-650mm, which you can attach a mitten hook to the end and this gives you an attachement point for a peak bag, pillow of whatever you want at the ends of the hammock.

Next you need to attach your suspension by girth hitching to the fabric below the gather. If using a whoopie sling you simply run the adjustable loop of the whoopie sling through the fixed loop of the whoopie, and cinch tight. You may need to move the fabric around a little to ensure the fabric is gathered consistently.

You can run the suspension over the top of the gather as per below,

or run your suspension through the middle of the gather as per the photo below

Rather than attach the whoopie sling directly to the hammock, another option is use a continuous loop which allows you to disconnect your whoopie sling from the hammock, or allows you to easily change between whoopie slings or webbing based suspensions. Another advantage is if the distance between your two anchor points is too close then the loops can be attached directly to your tree straps through the use of a marlin spike hitch.

Whoopie hook spliced onto whoopie sling adjustable bury and attached to continuous loop.

Loop girth hitched to titanium cinch buckle for webbing suspension

Loop attached to TATO biner, Whoopie sling adjustable bury attaches to biner.

There are many options when making hammocks, and those options listed above are but a few.

Happy hanging.’

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/make-your-own-tarp-or-hammock/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hammock-camping-double-bunking/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hammock-hunting-till-dark/

02/02/2017: Poly Tent by The Ultralight Hiker on the Cheap: As part of a series on economy backpacking, I bring you my new poly tent made from a ‘standard 8’ x 10’ poly tarp bought from the local Churchill $2 shop. This one cost me A$7.99 and took only minutes to make. Mark out the tie-out positions as shown. Use Tarp clips or polystyrene balls as tie outs - so actual tie out position will be about 2” inside the fabric edge. Tie Apex to an extended hiking pole (4’ height) as shown. Peg out Rear point, then two End points approx 6” forward. Then loosely toe out two Front points (as shown) then two Side points. Cut slit. Attach tie downs to Flaps for closure. Place ground sheet (and dog) inside. Enjoy.

As you can see, Spot is now an uncle.

Fully open.

Interior: inside 6’ x 4’ poly tarp ground sheet.

Fully open.

Storm mode.

Rear.

Made in minutes from one of these.

Plan.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/diy-side-burner-metho-stove/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/super-cat-metho-stove/

16/11/2014: Baggage: Most folks (seem to) like nothing better than lugging vast chunks of stuff around. They require huge boxes (buildings) to cram it into, and huge wheeled thingummies to cart it all around in, all of which usually means they WASTE vast chunks of time acquiring, paying for and maintaining it all (worrying about whether someone will steal it & etc) and very little time actually going places, doing things or even just ‘smelling the roses,’ all of which is just kind of SAD. All of this largesse is supposed to be better than a gunyah! Maybe not. The two LIGHTEST shelters I have encountered are Six Moon Designs ‘Gatewood Cape http://www.sixmoondesigns.com/tarps/GatewoodCape.html [named after Emma Gatewood the first (67 year old) woman to through-hike the entire Appalacian trail] (313 grams) which DOUBLES as a raincoat & Zpacks ‘Solo Plus Tarp’ 210 grams = http://www.zpacks.com/shelter/hexamid_plus.shtml) . Both require a floor (which adds @ 100 grams) which in Zpack’s case could be http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/groundsheet_poncho.shtml (@ 144-177 grams) which also doubles as a raincoat. Either of these does away with that EXCESS BAGGAGE and makes a most satisfactory ‘gunyah’, all you really need to sit out a wet day/night in and watch the passing parade (of wildlife/wild flowers etc) from…

Gatewood Cape

02/04/2015: New Zpacks ultralight TENT with sewn in bathtub floor and insect screen: What a beauty, for 1.5 hikers at 536 grams including stakes: http://www.zpacks.com/shelter/altaplex.shtml

If the large image does not appear, it is either missing, or you need to enable javascript in your internet browser.

02/01.2017: Make Your Own Tarp or Hammock: Tier Gear DIY Guides: Aussie Outfitter Tier Gear has an absolutely wonderful page of instructables here: http://www.tiergear.com.au/28/diy-guides which show in profound detail how to eg make your own superb hammock &/or hammock tarp - amongst other things. You can also buy all the materials from them. They deliver incredibly fast Australia-wide from their home in Tasmania. If you have any special order needs or questions they are exrtremely helpful and quick to answer.

If you don’t feel up to making your own gear (yet) you can order the same item from them already craftsman manufactured right here in Oz! And at a good price. For example, the Torrent 3.3 tarp shown in the photo is currently A$160. It is obviously a wonderful tarp which you could use instead of a tent (with a groundsheet) or as a hammock tarp. Its specs are as follows:

Ridgeline length: 335cm

Width: 280cm

Distance between bottom corners: 165cm
Panel pulls: None

Weight (in the stuff sack without cords or pegs):

Xenon Sil 1.1 (1500mmHH): 334grams (basic)

You might go on to make the same item later in .5 oz/yd2 perhaps in olive drab or camo. Available eg here: http://www.zpacks.com/materials/waterproof-fabric.shtml ) at about half the weight. Also check out their great range of interesting gear, eg suspension systems & etc For example: http://www.tiergear.com.au/11/online-shop/hammock-suspension-and-hardware

01/01.2017: Hammock Camping - Double Bunking:

This is an 8’ x 8’ (2.4 x 2.4 metres) cuben tarp to which we sewed two 4’6” x 8’ (1.35 x 2.4 metres) ‘wings’ so we could close it off as a tarp shelter like this:

It weighs 200 grams. Joe Valesko at zpacks made it for me. You can see what it looked like before we sewed the ‘wings on it here; http://www.zpacks.com/shelter/tarps.shtml. I/we have slept in it many nights. Here I was using a space blanket as a ground sheet. This works well. At this point I had not made my bed. It can also be erected as a hammock tarp like this:

Of course it can be tied/pegged out much tauter than this. I am not expecting to be camping on the verandah (though that is where many ideas are first tried out – as I’m sure you have already noticed!)

As you can see it will provide you with plenty of shelter from rain, and you can peg the downwind side up high enough that you can have a fire slightly to one side and enjoy the fire whilst relaxing on the hammock out of the wind and rain.

Della is reclining on a Nano 7 hammock here (https://www.grandtrunk.com/products/nano-7-hammock) which (with the caribiners removed and with dyneema ropes attached) weighs 187.5 grams. I would just throw one of our Thermarest Neoair Womens mats (340 grams) in it and a Montbell Ultralight Super Spiral #3 down sleeping bag (600 grams) for a perfect night’s sleep (Total: 1327.5 grams). Perhaps you would like to compare that weight to your current tent, sleeping bag and mattress combo! My arrangement is also much more comfortable, safer and drier.

We already know we can sleep in two Nano 7s pitched one above the other. You have to pitch the tarp slightly higher (4’6” instead of 4’). You have to boost the top person in, and then the bottom person (me) is closer to the ground than I would like (so far as getting in/out easily is concerned), but it works!

Now to check out whether we can both sleep head to toe in a double hammock. Side by side definitely doesn’t work! Here’s Della:

And here’s me at the other end:

As you can see, Spot figures there is plenty of room for him too – and he’s comfy! This is a Trek Light Gear Double Hammock (https://www.treklightgear.com/double-hammock.html). We were playing around with mattresses here. Della is lying on a ¾ length Neoair. I am on a Neoair Womens. We are using the new Klymit Ultralight pillows (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-ultralight-pillow/ ) and the Airbeams (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/air-beam-pad/ ) from our packs (both of which we would be carrying anyway) for side insulation on the side where our sleeping bags will be compressed. It is comfy enough.

Hummingbird Hammocks (https://hummingbirdhammocks.com/shop/single/) have a double hammock which weighs 10.2 ounces (289 grams), and a single+ one which weighs 7. 6 ounces (210 grams) which could also be used for two. I should also mention their ultralight single here which weighs 5.2 ounces (146 grams) – even lower than the Nano 7! I need to try their products out!

I think a single wider (possibly longer) mattress would work better. The Klymit Ultralight I ordered from Massdrop is on its way. It is 23” wide. I am also eying some Exped mats which look really good.

So, what is our strategy here. What are we about doing? There are places we go where we may not need a shelter at all (because there are huts a day apart (Fiordland for example). However, you would be a damned fool to have no shelter as you can be very dead (as I have seen) if you don’t make it to a hut in torrential rain, for example. You must have a roof (see: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-importance-of-a-roof/) There, and other places it might be good to have the option to sleep on the ground, or if the ground is too wet/rough etc, to sleep in the trees.

We are looking at what is the minimum we can jointly take so we can do this. We are pretty close here to the solution. We will be looking into some wider pads which might better suit two people in a double hammock such as Big Agnes Q-core slx, and Exped Synmat UL7 MW & etc.

If you have a (wife or) youngster at home you want to start on camping/hiking/hunting, a double hammock plus tarp shelter such as I have explained here will mean s/he has to carry very little and will be safe in the tree with you - away from nasties such as spiders and snakes!

PS: I don’t know whether you noticed the eye bolts in the verandah posts to which I have attached two lengths of chain and some caribiners so I can quickly swing a hammock on the verandah if one of us wants to have a lazy day (Della actually went to sleep in the Nano 7 whilst I was off cleaning out a sheep trough!) I recommend this arrangement for your consideration.

PPS: If you are considering just a single hammock configuration you might want to know how light you can go with a tarp. This guy has been making cat curve tarps for ages: http://www.outdoorequipmentsupplier.com/maccat_tarps.php His Mac Cat Standard is obviously all you would need. In 1.3 oz/yd2 silnylon it weighs 270 grams (and costs US$105) which means it would weigh above 104 grams in cuben (let’s say less than 120). For comparison Joe Valesko makes an asym one which weighs 136 grams. Add a hammock at 146 = 266, plus 30 grams dyneema suspension , some pegs and some guylines for the tarp. You are still looking at a hammock/tent at less than 350 grams!

My first homemade hammock and hammock tarp were both fashioned from some green 2.2oz/yd2 nylon ripstop from Spotlight (you can see what it looked like in the 'poncho shelter' link below). We simply cut the required length for the hammock (leaving the full width of the fabric 5' - 150 cm), folded it over and double hemmed it at the ends (to take the rope). The selvage was enough for the sides. For the tarp we used a 7' x 7' (210 x 210 cm) square flat felled at the join and hemmed all round, to which we sewed grossgrain tie-outs at the corners and halfway along the sides. This arrangement worked fine for years and in all kinds of weathers hunting sambar deer in the Victorian mountains. Indeed I have been bone dry under this minimalist tarp when a couple of fellow hunters were soaked to the skin inside a tent pitched under a tarp not ten yards away! I am talking a tarp of 49 square feet here - and some of that area is almos6t certainly superfluous! In cuben 49 ft2 would weigh 2.7 ox or78 grams! Now you see what my 300 gram 'limit' is about!

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/all-in-one-hammock-tent-poncho-backpack-at-1-2-kg/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/laybag/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hole-less-ponchoshelter/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hammocks/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hammock-camping/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/sleeping-pad-reinvented-big-agnes-q-core-slx/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-insulated-static-v-lite-sleeping-pad/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/modifyingshortening-hiking-mats/

14/05/2015: ZPack Hexamid Solo-Plus Tent: NEW Model: I see Joe and Sheryl have added a cross-over ‘vestibule’ to their new model of ‘our’ tent. I had been thinking of extending the beak on ours down a bit as a storm flap, and to add a bit of vestibule room. This crossover design is clever, and eliminates the need for a zipper. I will probably make mine a little longer, as there are two of us (and two dogs!) I will have to order some more cuben fibre…

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19/04/2016: 500 Gram Tents: On Massdrop this morning Big Sky’s Wisp one person tent @ 567 grams (300 grams in Cuben!) for US $159.99 & US$11.75 postage: http://bigskyproducts.com/big-sky-wisp-1p-trekking-pole-super-bivy-tent.aspx This has got to be good value, and must start to make you question why you might still be lugging around that perhaps 2 kg tent. There is even room in the vestibule for your pack and Jack Russell!

07/05/2016: New Decagon Octagon Tyvek Igloo Tent Design: I am really pleased with this new tent as I have solved the problem of how to construct a pyramid tent without zips and which has a verandah to completely exclude the rain. It is a huge tent. As you can see, you can warm it with a fire out the front; there is plenty of room for two (plus dogs) and all their gear – and then some! There is ample standing room. It has a bathtub floor. You can lock it down to an invulnerable octagon in storm mode. It has a clothesline, three hangers, glasses etc pockets both sides. It needs ten stakes (@ 8-11 grams each = 110 grams) to erect and two poles (which can be cut up the bush – or use two-three hiking poles or you can buy Easton/Carbon ones here: http://www.questoutfitters.com/tent_poles.htm).

In Tyvek it weighs 1,030 grams (including floor and tie-outs) and would weigh about 420 grams (under 550 inc. stakes) in Cuben Fibre (.67oz/yd2 camo for the roof & 1 oz/yd2 for the floor). It would weigh about 750 grams (without stakes) in 1.3oz/yd2 Silnylon. I overdid it on the bathtub floor (6” sides) width and height and length of beak. Could easily shave a couple of hundred grams off this weight on my next model. Two Easton poles (if needed) would weigh under 200 grams. This model consists of ten equal triangles, two sides 7’ (2.1m) and one 3’ (.9m). You could easily scale it down quite a bit and still fit two people and their gear in it. If you shortened the height of each triangle to two 6’ sides and the width to 2.8” (which would be about the minimum I guess – haven’t tried this size), the tent should weigh perhaps 60% of what it does now, say under 700 grams anyway – in Tyvek, and clearly about half that in cuben! Instructions and plans: Let me know if you would like to purchase a kit with pattern and instructions.

Front View.

Inside View: plenty of room for two 6' (1.8 m) Neoair mats and lots of gear.

Plenty of standing room.

Rear View.

Side View.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-solo-fire-shelter/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-tent-designs/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-twin-fire-shelter/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/one-pole-tyvek-tipi/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-bivi/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/new-tyvek-forestertent-design/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-jack-russell-rain-coat-13-grams/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/catenary-curves/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-chairgrounsheet/

26/02/2017: Inflatable Bathtub Groundsheet: The lack of a bathtub floor is one of the chiefest comparative drawbacks of tarp camping vs tenting. I have been toying with this idea for some time. I used to usually collect some suitably lengthed dead branches and drape the edges of the tarp over them on the appropriate uphill side if rain threatened to inundate the ground.

I played with various means of suspending the edges of the tarp with mitten hooks attached to the tarp. This works but is awkward and slow with my arthritic fingers, then I thought, what if I made an inflatable tube which circumnavigates the tarp? I thought this was a genius idea till I Googled it and found someone else had already been there before me. https://www.esvocampingshop.com/en/air-barrier-tent-ground-sheet-inflatable/ Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I did come up with the idea independently though. Theirs is quite heavy and only really suited to car camping not hiking.

Before I ever looked to see if there was such a thing I was thinking mylar or silnylon (both possibilities still – further experimentation needed), then I hit on the DIY packraft site I posted about here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/new-diy-pack-raft/ and realised they could supply the materials for the tube and valve and that I could simply sew this to the edge of my 1.3 oz/yd2 silnylon tarp then seam seal the join.

Unfortunately the lightest heat sealable material (eg from http://www.seattlefabrics.com/nylons.html) is (I believe) 3 oz/yd2. I would need a tube 22’ long to circle double (7’ x4’) groundsheet. If I wanted the tube to be 2” in diameter, this would mean the tube would be in excess of 11ft2 or 1.3yds x 3 = 4 oz plus the 1.3 oz/yd2 silnylon 3yds x 1.3 = 3.9 Total 7.9oz or approx 240 grams. Good, but too heavy. If I can make the whole thing out of silnylon the first figure will become (1.3 x 1.3) 1.69 oz giving a total of 5.6 oz – or approx 160 grams. Much better.

A silnylon dry bag seems to hold air quite well though it is not designed to, so I suspect that if I glue up a tube of silnylon it will serve quite well, even if I have to add additional silicon as in this post: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/waterproofing-tent-floors-and-ground-sheets/

Why not try it yourself, and get back to me?

PS: This groundsheet will go very well with this tarp:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/poly-tent-by-the-ultralight-hiker-on-the-cheap/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/make-your-own-tarp-or-hammock/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/henrys-original-tarptent-tarptent-for-2/

I realise this inflatable tube could be added to my Holeless poncho to make it into a better groundsheet: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hole-less-ponchoshelter/ eg for my http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-deer-hunters-tent/

PS: As with my other design ideas, feel free to make one yourself but if you want to manufacture them I would appreciate some credit.

26/02/2017: Waterproofing Tent Floors and Ground Sheets: I have mentioned this brilliant idea before but apparently I had not done a post about it. Jim Woods has this great treatment which dramatically increases the waterproofness of silnylon (or other) tent floors or groundsheets. It simply involves mixing some (tube) silicon with odourless turpentine (ratio approx 1:3), painting it on and waiting for it to dry. I have done this myself and it works well. Simple, but highly effective. More details here: A Treatment for Silnylon Floors: http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Silnylon1/index.html as mentioned here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/trapped-by-flood-waters/

09/05/2016: Tent Stakes and Tricks: Give some thought to your tent pegs. Your tent won’t be anything without them, or without good ones – and they can weigh nearly as much as the tent! In windy weather tie your tent stakes to your guy by threading them through the hole in the peg. This allows you to push the stake completely under the ground for maximum purchase and ensures the guy cannot flap loose from the peg. This is much easier to do if you use Clam Cleats mini line locks: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-perfect-guy-line-for-a-hiking-tenttarp/ You can use mini carabiners such as these http://gossamergear.com/gg-logo-mini-biner.html to make this easier still at approx 3 grams per guy. Tip: the angle your stake should be driven in should be a little less than 90 degrees to the guy line, enough so that the force vector is inclined to push the stake in rather than lift it pout.

Some good stakes: Vargo have five stakes I would recommend: 1. The lightest their fluoro shepherd’s hook stake: http://www.vargooutdoors.com/titanium-tent-stake-fluorescent-orange-head.html#.Vy6gKdR97IU Length 165 mm Width 3.5 mm Weight 8 grams which have a little extra bit that really anchors the hook to the ground when driven all the way in, (I don’t know why all tent stakes aren’t brightly coloured to prevent loss – all of the following can have a piece of reflective guy line added to increase visibility): 2. their Ultralight Titanium Nail Peg: http://www.vargooutdoors.com/titanium-nail-peg-ultralight.html#.Vy6g6dR97IU Length 152 mm Width 4 Weight 8 grams 3. the Titanium Ascent Stake http://www.vargooutdoors.com/titanium-ascent-tent-stake.html#.Vy6jX9R97IU Length 158 mm Weigh 10 grams 4. the Titanium Crevice Stake: http://www.vargooutdoors.com/titanium-crevice-stake.html#.Vy6kE9R97IU Length 152mm Weight 12 grams. If you want really serious holding their 5. Aluminium Summit Stake is a good choice: http://www.vargooutdoors.com/aluminum-summit-tent-stake.html#.Vy6ks9R97IU Length 190 mm Weight 14 grams. The DAC JStake has been a competition winner for years and is just about unbendable: http://www.mont.com.au/dac-j-stakes-6- pack Length 160 mm Width 11 mm Weight 11.3 gm

A couple of others to consider: Zpacks 6.4 inch Carbon Fiber Tent Stakes Length 16 cm Width 7.5 mm Weight 6.2 grams http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/stakes.shtml have superior holding ability (due to their width) yet are light and will pass through airport security! For really serious anchoring you can even get longer carbon fibre stakes http://www.rutalocura.com/Tent_Stakes.html Length 22.5 mm Weight 7.5 grams

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A similar longer stake is the Easton Nano Nail Stake Length 20 mm, Weight 12 grams: http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=104

21/04/2016: Catenary Curves: They are the solution to tarp/tent problems. I have known about them for so long and done nothing. Well, yesterday I was having a problem getting my new project, a Tyvek octagon/decagon shelter to sit properly. I created the curve you see on the piece of plywood by hanging a piece of rope between two screws then, using the pattern produced as a template I cut the curves out. Instantly the tent wanted to stand upright nice and taut. It will be much better when it is properly sewn with tie-outs and etc. The tent looks to be a winner. In this (its largest configuration) it creates a ‘fire tent’ which is 10.5’ (350cm) long and 7’ wide (210cm) and 6’6” high (195cm), big enough to sleep four adults and their gear out of the rain eg on a hunting expedition (anticipated). The weight (floorless model) 550 grams in Tyvek. It will be less than 150 grams in cuben fibre! I will be posting about it soon and reworking all my old plans too with what I’ve learned. Watch this space!

Catenary curve and template.

Largest configuration: opening height 2’9“ (85 cm)

Nice and roomy inside. The turquoise object is a 7’ x 5’ (210 x 150 cm) poncho used as a groundsheet. Room for two of these!

11/05/2016: Australian Outfitter: This is great news. In the depth of Tasmania there is an Aussie Outfitter and cottage manufacturer who can supply a myriad of interesting stuff which you previously had to wait ages for from the US etc – and at a very reasonable price. I purchased some 1oz/yd2 silnylon (2,000 mm waterproofness) for my new poncho & tent project (details to follow soon) and some very elusive mitten hooks (same), all posted same day, but I will be going back for some of his 1.35oz/yd2 which has a waterproofness of 5300 mm for a tent floor! And many other things. Simon stocks a bewildering array of goodies (I was particularly interested in the ‘Dutchware’ range) and also manufactures various hiking goodies (hammocks, tarps, quilts etc) and for all you non-sewers out there sometimes has time to do custom work, so talk to him! Check out his ‘Make Your Own Adventure' blog and DIY Guides which contain many useful patterns with instructions. Like me he is also one of those sensible folk who drive a Land Rover. Pictured one of his splendid Goshawk hammocks, just waiting for one of his wonderful Bettong tarps to complete it. Forget about your swag and try one of these: http://www.tiergear.com.au/

Goshawk hammock

26/06/2015: Pitching the Poncho: This information may save your life: Some folks did not find my instructions quite clear enough about this (here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/sambar-deer-stalking-102/). These pictures may help. You can pitch a 5’ x 7’ nylon poncho as quite a good dry shelter (with a fire out the front). Tie the centre of one of the 7’ sides to a tree (or stick) about 3’ up, pin out the other 7’ side to the ground taut, bring the remaining two corners in as close as they will come to the tree, again as taut as they will go. Now you have an excellent three-sided waterproof shelter open only on the lee (fire) side and long enough to lie down in. You can heap it with leaf litter for a soft bed & insulation then wrap yourself in a space blanket in it. Some STRING (spectra cord) in your pack is always a good idea. You can even use one of those mylar emergency space blankets in lieu of the poncho. They are surprisingly strong; the wind will not catch and tear them pitched like this. You can roll a teaspoonful of earth into a ball the size of a marble and tie a noose around it, catching the material in the noose in order to guy/tie it out. If you have a knife you can whittle some emergency tent pegs, or tie the guys to rocks. Shown is a ‘standard’ 5’ x 7’ nylon poncho. This one has no hood you will notice. There is a secret about that you will learn from a future post (soon).

Just enough room for a man and his dog – an essential on a cold night!

Side view.

Rear view.

Make a noose

Catch the marble (macadamia) and the mylar in the noose. Tie out.

20/01/2016: Clearview Tent: It is nice to be able to gaze out into the woods when camping. An open tarp shelter (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-solo-fire-shelter/) or a cuben tent (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/zpacks-hexamid-solo-plus-tent/) such as I use facilitates this, or you might try building a clearview tent as in this instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultralight-clear-tarp-tent-2P/

You get much the same 360 degree view camping in a hammock (as I often do) with a small (say 7'x7' minimum) tarp for a shelter.

Picture of Ultralight clear tarp tent (2P)

18/01/2016: Tarp Bathtub Groundsheet: This is an interesting concept and should be easy enough to emulate in Tyvek. I had already tried to shape a groundcloth so the sides stood up like this, but without pegs or other supports it was less than pefect. Using some elastic cord to make it conform to the shape of one’s sleeping mat is a good idea. The SOL material ued here maybe would provide some extra insulation but it would not stand up to many uses I suspect. I sometimes use a space blanket as an emergency ultralight ground cloth myself. The older thicker ‘Space Blanket’ might work better, but I suspect the insulation advantage is over-rated compared to the weight/cost and that Tyvek will provide a more serviceable alternative: http://www.instructables.com/id/Semi-Bivy-Keep-your-sleeping-bag-dry-and-warmer/

Picture of Semi-Bivy: Keep your sleeping bag dry and warmer

27/08/2015: World’s Lightest Tarp Clip: You can buy these approx 1” polystyrene balls from Spotlight for @ $2.40 for 20. They weigh about .2 gram each. You can carry a few of these in your repair/fishing kit (along with some string, eg 1-2mm Dyneema) for use at need, eg when you need some additional tie-downs for your tent/tarp or when you have torn one out. They also come in handy as fishing floats for use with your http://www.theultralighthiker.com/bcb-fishing-kit/ You could use them to attach the bottom reinforcing tarp to your faux packraft http://www.theultralighthiker.com/home-made-pack-raft/ first tying them to the material as shown below (on the emergency mylar tent http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pitching-the-poncho-warning-this-may-save-your-life/), then tying an overhand knot in the remaining ‘tail’ and joining all the tieouts together with another length of string and pulling it tight so as to secure it to the raft.

World's lightest tarp clips

Make a noose

Tie the slip knot like this:

24/05/2015: TYVEK SOLO FIRE SHELTER: It weighs less than 600 grams. Here is my plan for an excellent one person shelter which will keep you safe from just about everything and can be warmed by a cheery fire out the front. You can cut it in one piece (as shown) from a single sheet of 3 metre wide Tyvek ‘Homewrap’ 3.6 metres long costing about $20. Leave about 2cm more for a hem, which you can tape with Tyvek tape. You can add reinforcing patches to the corners, etc in the same way – or you can learn to sew! If you can’t sew hems & webbing tie outs as shown, you can erect it with tarp clips (eg http://www.shelter-systems.com/gripclips/) You could use these stick on loops (http://www.zpacks.com/large_image.shtml?accessories/tape/stick_on_loop_clear_l.jpg) as bottom tie outs or to erect a bathtub floor, attach your raincoat to close the top half of the opening in bad rain, etc One might be good about 60 cm from the ground to hold out the centre of the windward side in strong winds so the material doesn’t press up against you. These velcro strips might be handy too http://www.zpacks.com/large_image.shtml?materials/velcro_l.jpg & etc. There is clearly plenty of room for one person, lots of gear and a dog or two! I guess two people would fit if you are very good friends. Such a shelter is much better than a tent, or bivy bag especially on wet days. You have somewhere warm and comfortable to retreat to, but with a view. You can cook under cover as Tyvek has a melting point of 800C. It will also withstand 160 Km per hour winds and has an R-rating of approx 1-1.5. You will never have a cold back as it will reflect the heat from the fire right back at you, and keep you warm all around. I have been sitting in mine in shirtsleeves on sleety nights when the mercury dropped below 0C. I have also been out in it in torrential rain and hideous winds. Most places (except the tops of hills - never a good place to camp) the wind blows pretty consistently from one direction (check the forecast before you go). If it does turn around you can close in the storm flaps. If it turns 180 degrees, you may have to re-erect it. You just tie it to a tree, any stick over about 1.2 metres, two hiking poles joined together & etc. You need 8 stakes (including two for the storm flaps). Take 9 – one can always go missing. You can certainly scale this up to suit two people, but you will have to sew the wider floor on if you make it wider eg the top piece might be 2.4 metres high and 4 metres wide and the floor perhaps 1.5 metres wide. In that case you would need 5.5 metres of 3 metre wide Tyvek. Della’s winter garden looks great in the photos too.

PS: If you leave out the floor you will save approx 160 grams which you can substitute a 7 x 5 silnylon poncho for, so that for your 600 grams you will have a tent AND a raincoat! See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hole-less-ponchoshelter/

Lovely campfire, warm tent (shirtsleeves at approx 0C), music (Statler Bros), ebook (Idriess, 'Desert Column'), great company (Spot), the lonely dingo’s call... Who could want for more?

Cut from one piece of 3 metre wide Tyvek

The Lee Side: a cheery fire out the front, protected from the weather 270 degrees

Rear View, windward side: the wind and rain will skid right up over it

You can imagine the view of a cheery fire out front (Della might not want her garden scorched!)

Storm Mode: the top half could be further closed with your raincoat

Rolls up a little bigger than my boot, weighs < 600 grams. Costs approx $20

Prototype erected with tarp clips from Aussie Disposals.

Approximate Dimensions in metres

13/05/2016: The Deer Hunter’s Tent: I decided it was time to upgrade my Tyvek Solo Fire Shelter (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-solo-fire-shelter/) into something much better and which could accommodate two - and dogs! I also wanted to use my ‘Holeless Poncho (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hole-less-ponchoshelter/) as the floor. I intended that this should result in a ‘roof’ (in Tyvek for its ‘fireproofness’) that was around 400 grams, and a poncho ‘floor’ in silnylon that would be around 170 grams. Adding another 80 or so grams for tent pegs should still result in a tent which was under 600 grams, and fit for all weathers. It would also provide a raincoat (maybe a spare) which would otherwise weigh maybe half the weight of this tent!

I have now discovered some 1 oz/yd2 silnylon which is reasonably priced at $11.95 a metre (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/australian-outfitter/) so that I can make the whole thing much lighter (55% of the weight, ie under 400 grams all up). In cuben you could go even lighter but it is very expensive at around $30/yd (http://www.zpacks.com/materials.shtml) I have a piece I can salvage from another project so I will make a cuben model with a 1oz silnylon poncho floor – I expect the whole thing will weigh under 300 grams after I have made another one in Tyvek to get the measurements just exact. This one was the prototype. Not bad for a two person tent though!

The waterproof section of the floor could only be 5’ by 7’ (the size of the poncho), less a bit so that you get a ‘bathtub floor’ effect. However, there is also a floorless ‘vestibule area of about 5 square feet for dogs, and gear stowage. I expect if you are vertically challenged like us you will have plenty of room to shove bits and pieces at the ends and side. We will fit.

It was extremely windy when I took the photos but it is showing no inclination to fall down – and it went up in seconds! That’s what I like. It is also raining but it is nice and dry inside. As with all my tents it is intended you will warm it with a cosy fire out the front, a nice touch if you are enjoying winter hunts in Gippsland, as I will be doing.

There are three different modes. The ‘normal’ fully open mode which will be easiest to get into. The peak is 5’ high. The rainy day mode where you can half close it and stay dry yet still enjoy the benefits of the fire. The storm mode for when it really wants to blow and bucket down and you need to keep it all out and keep the tent from blowing away. If much taller tepees withstood the winds on the Great Plains for centuries I expect this little guy will withstand a rainy night in Gippsland!

Open Mode.

Half Open Mode.

Storm Mode.

Side View.

Rear View.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-solo-fire-shelter/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-tent-designs/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-twin-fire-shelter/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/one-pole-tyvek-tipi/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-bivi/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/new-tyvek-forestertent-design/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-jack-russell-rain-coat-13-grams/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/catenary-curves/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-chairgrounsheet/

Instructions will be added later. If you would like to buy a kit with pattern, instructions and materials, please let me know.

For now, what I did to make this version: sewed on the entrance flaps (as per instructions here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-solo-fire-shelter/) then set the tent up 5' high with tarp clips configuring it around the dimensions of the poncho which I marked on the ground (with tent pegs). I also wanted the tent to tie out more tautly so I extended the tie down point at the rear by 3" and the middle tie down points by the same amount. I moved the two side tie down points to exactly conform to the dimensions of the poncho, then I brought the two front flaps together about 15" out from the pole and cut off the bottoms. Before I cut off the sides of the front flaps I pegged them out into the half open position and pinned them together about 18" forward of the peak so as to make a rain shelter at the front when the tent was open. I marked a position to sew a pocket to take a pole at the inside of the peak. I also marked a point on the roof to sew in a loop to hang my torch from. Taking the tent down, I laid it out on the floor and made sure that the sides were symmetrical and marked catenary curves along the bottom sections. When I had sewn in the new tie downs, pocket etc I set it up again and added some stick-on Velcro for the door closures. I will recalculate all the dimensions and make a wholly new copy-able model (soon).

On this prototype which turns out to be slightly smaller than the poncho and what it can be, I may sew in a Tyvek bathtub floor (approx 210 grams) just to see how that works. I will have to cut a piece which is slightly bigger than the tent floor then set the tent up on top of it, then carefully trim and pin so that the floor is always bigger than it needs to be (this may mean a little excess at the corners) so that the floor doesn’t hinder the tent’s pegging out nice an taut. All the same it will be nice to have a tent which goes up in seconds (just right) and is ready to move right in. This tent goes up so fast I can imagine putting it up for lunch on wet days!

NB: Here is a neat way to do the catenary curves: (http://www.tiergear.com.au/25/-make-your-own-adventure-blog) 'using a length of 6mm dowel (or some other equivalent), and some heavy weights to keep it in place position the dowel so that it intersects the two corners and the mid catenary cut mark, and draw a line along the dowel.'

catenary curve

PS: The tent has stood up perfectly to a very windy wet night – it looks no different to what it did when I set it up yesterday afternoon. Inside perfectly dry.

29/05/2016: Honey, I Shrank the Tent: I thought I would make a slightly smaller

‘Decagon’ tent. It turned out to be over 250 grams lighter than the original model. See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/new-decagon-octagon-tyvek-igloo-tent-design/)

This one has ten equal sides 6’6” on the outside edges and 2’10” (198cm & 86.5 cm ) across the bottom. It makes a tent which is still over 9’ x 7’6” (270 cm x 225cm) inside and 5’2” (155cm) high at the apex and 40” (1 metre) at the door. It is wide enough for two to sleep sideways but long enough for two to sleep lengthways too. Roof only weight: 607 grams complete with guys, tie-outs, etc in Tyvek Homewrap weighed this afternoon on my kitchen scales. The new (1 oz/yd2) silnylon poncho floor (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hole-less-ponchoshelter/) will weigh approx 130 grams. You will need 10 x (eg) Vargo Shepherd’s Hook stakes (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tent-stakes-and-tricks/) to set it up (80 grams). Total weight: 817 grams. This is more than satisfactory for such a large area.

Another change I made to this tent is cutting off 1’ from the doorway arch and adding closeable storm flaps which overlap at the top and join at the bottom. This will make the tent enormously more waterproof in really bad weather. It also means that it can be set up as a decagonal tipi with one corner high enough off the ground you can just wriggle in underneath.

I will be making a 1oz/yd2 silnylon model. I anticipate the roof will be under 350 grams, plus 130 grams for the poncho and 80 grams for the pegs = 560 grams! As I will be making one for an anticipated Qld rainforest hiking trip I will be sewing in a 1.35 oz/yd 2 silnylon floor and .7 oz/yd2 insect netting. I figure this will not add more than another 100 grams (if that), so a total of eg 650 grams! It will also cost me only about $100.

Fully open mode: Spot checking it out.

View looking out. You would normally have a fire about where the 10 litre drum is.

Spot's 'seal of approval'. That's a 5' x 7' (150 cm x 210 cm) poncho tarp lying on the floor with plenty of room to spare!.

Storm mode with doors closed. Still 1' (30 cm) of ventilation at the bottom, or room for a dog to go in and out.

Side view.

Rear view: the wind will go right round this tent.

Clothesline along the front ridgeline (yellow cord). NB the Dyneema tent pole reinforcement. I just cut a circle of Dyneema and sewed it on after I had joined the two pieces of Tyvek together (roughly a half circle (7 slices) and a quarter (3 slices). I then cut the slice of Dyneema I didn’t need out and sewed the two edges of the tent together to make the tipi shape. NB: Leave eg @ 1” extra to all your pieces for joining – likewise at least ½” for a hem around the bottom.

The 'doors' just hook back to loops sewn into the walls. To close, wrap hook around hiking pole and hook onto itself. No zips.

Setting up: Use a carabiner to join the two corners either side of the door arch together. Now it is an octagon. Pin out the corner opposite the door, then the two either side of that corner. They will be slightly forward of it. Then insert the centre pole. Attach the other pole and peg it straight out (You can move it later). The tent will now stand up by itself. Starting at the back go around pegging all the corners out. When you get to the two either side of the door remove the carabiner from one loop. A little adjustment may be needed to get all the corners standing taut. It is the second easiest tent to put up I have ever owned. The even easier one is: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-deer-hunters-tent/

In really bad weather – or if there is a crowd - the tent also sets up as a decagon. One corner is about 1’ off the ground where you can crawl in. The decagon makes a tipi style tent which is @ 10’ in diameter.

When hunting I will usually just break a couple of bush sticks for the poles, one 5’ 2” (155cm) tall, the other about a 40” (1 metre) – or I can use our hiking poles if hiking.

This is really a lovely tent and was fun to make. You should have a try at one. If you can’t get your hands on some Tyvek, you could make it very cheaply out of a couple of blue poly tarps (not so fireproof though!).

As usual, make one of these for your own use but if you want to manufacture them, I would like some credit – and some cash, please!

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/does-spot-like-to-hunt-deer/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-solo-fire-shelter/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-tent-designs/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-twin-fire-shelter/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/one-pole-tyvek-tipi/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-bivi/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/new-tyvek-forestertent-design/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-jack-russell-rain-coat-13-grams/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/catenary-curves/http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-chairgrounsheet/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/this-book-may-save-your-life/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pedometer-app/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/free-willdeterminism/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/you-will-not-live-forever/

13/02/2016: New Tyvek ‘Forester’ Tent Design: I have been playing with Col. Whelen’s famous ‘Forester’ Tent design: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/col-townsend-whelens-forester-tent/ I have certainly come to the conclusion that the classic A-frame tent sloping away to the back has seldom been bettered. I reduced some of his dimensions and increased others. We do not need such a tall tent as his, particularly at the rear, nor quite so wide, but we do need a little more overhang at the front as we will want closeable flaps at the front in case of heavy rain.

I have realised that if these flaps (and the back wall are sewn in under an overhang, a covered ventilation system will result at the tops. At the back (certainly) I will want to be able to close this when there is a very cold wind blowing. At the front, probably not. I also realise how easy it will be to have mosquito curtains inside the flaps. They can simply hang down and overlap. When the flaps are not needed to keep out rain, they can be pegged out to create more space (as shown).

This prototype has a floor area approx 7’ wide at the front and 4’ at the back. Its inside length is about 6’6”, long enough for us. I have altered Whelen’s dimensions as follows: ridgeline 8’6”- 9’, length of side walls 7’6”, front height of side walls 6’6”, rear height of side walls 2’10”. That is a ‘standard’ 6’ x 4’ blue poly tarp you see lying in it.

If I make this tent entirely in Tyvek (including a sewn in ‘bathtub’ floor (supported at the front by the walls, the pole and an elastic draw cord), and closeable flaps and sewn in back it will weigh 720 grams (546 in silnylon) without the insect screen which will only add about 50 grams. I am really surprised how light it will be for such a large tent. It is big enough to sleep three people (if they are very good friends) and there is plenty of room still for all their gear at the front. It will be a palace for Della and me - and the two dogs! Most important, you can sit around on your http://www.theultralighthiker.com/cyclone-chair/ in it with a fire out the front even when it is raining! You can also get dressed standing up!

If I sew a fringe about 6” high of insect screen around the edge of the bathtub floor and then sew it to the walls, I will have ventilation all around by simply elevating the whole tent a couple of inches. This could be good on a hot day.

I have just erected the prototype using some tarp clips, so it doesn’t drape as well as it will when sewn. You could just leave it like this and add the flaps and back end in with Tyvek tape – if you can’t sew.

The tent can be erected with a pair of hiking poles plus the addition of a short tube of aluminium/carbon fibre - or with sticks you find at camp!

We will ‘finish’ off the prototype (in Tyvek) and try it out some before I settle on a ‘final’ design – which I will then post. I may decide to 'catenary cut' the ridgeline for example, particularly for the silnylon model

PS: I have also planned some alterations to my http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-solo-fire-shelter/ I can easily make it big enough for two by adding two small flaps at the front and widening the floor by about 1’. I have also figured a way to create a sort of wrap around ‘umbrella vent’ at the top utilising the two front guys, a piece of Tyvek and some Velcro. I have also worked out a way to half close the front door to create the maximum dry space when the door is not completely closed. This is (usually) the most serious drawback of 'pyramid' type tents. It will still be even lighter than the above tent - about 450 grams in silnylon; under 300 with a cuben fibre roof. Great for solo overnight hunts/trips. I will update the post when I have made them (the alterations).

This is a good standing height for Della, and fine for me with a bit of a slouch. It has Spot’s ‘seal of approval’.

I know about the finger, but I could not resist the picture of the dog!

05/03/2017: Fire Tent:

Further to my post about being able to light a fire in the rain, (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/how-to-light-a-fire-in-the-wet/) I have also long toyed with the idea of carrying/constructing a fire rain hat or raincoat so that heavy rain doesn’t put out your fire.

The two occasions when it is really important to be able to light a fire are when it is very wet and cold and when there is a bushfire approaching (so that you can create burned ground as a refuge!) On such occasions if you don’t have a lighter, or can’t light a fire you’re a dead duck. Smokers clearly have an advantage here over more sanctimonious folk, and even though I gave up smoking more than a generation ago (! – there is an interesting method of measuring time) I still always carry a ‘Mini-Bic’).

Above: Steve Hutcheson and myself Wonnangatta-Moroka Winter 2012

We always camp in a shelter which allows a fire outside. A tent is a cold, creeping thing to have to retreat to when you can sit/stand in a warm open shelter, drink rum, play games, read etc in front of a cheery fire – and with a warm back! If you pitch any rectangular tarp high you can have a (small) fire at one end (though the wind tends to catch the tarp if it isn’t pegged to the ground on at least 2/3 sides).

I think it should be possible to suspend over the fire (eg a 1 metre square) diamond of eg ‘Tyvek’ @ 1.75 ounces /square yard and a melting point of 800C. You need to be careful that the fire can’t ignite its ‘roof’ or use it as a wick to ignite your tent, but this shouldn’t be much of a problem in the rain. Set-up obviously needs to be when furled (a couple of rubber bands should achieve this) so you can pitch it over the fire when it is already lit. Weight should be able to be kept to less than 3 ounces (90 grams) including stakes and guys. Tyvek, with its 800C melting point should make a good material for this ‘rain hat’. It might be better to use the material that fire blankets are made from for this purpose.

A ‘Standard’ Australian Fire Blanket (cost approx A$20 such as has lived in our kitchen for 20+ years) appears to be made of woven fibreglass and measures exactly 1 metre by one metre and weighs 427 grams, so it will (pitched diagonally - like the tyvek shelter in the photo) make an excellent small waterproof shelter for a fire. The fact that it will reflect otherwise wasted heat straight back into your tent will also mean you use much less fuel and can have a much smaller, safer fire. I would use a stainless steel fishing ‘leader’ as the guy on that side of the tent (with a ring at an appropriate point on it to secure the top corner of the blanket) and pitch the fire tent over it and pegged to th ground on the other three sides.

I see now that someone is selling just such an idea, the Fire Defender (They even have an 'ultralight' version):

http://theupscout.com/gear/campfire-defender/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4RRYM5?m=A2CWO6R96322MU&ref_=v_sp_widget_detail_page

https://www.amazon.com/Campfire-Defender-Complete-Kit/dp/B01M046H56/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2CWO6R96322MU&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1488582890&sr=1-1

Above, their 'ultralight' version

You might be interested in buying some flame resistant fabric to make your own. You could look eg here; http://www.auburnmfg.com/product-category/mro/heat-resistant-cloth/

Tyvek Fire Tent’: We always camp in an open shelter (something like the one above in he photo) with an open fire out the front. So warm and cozy even on cold,wet days. This shelter is very easy to make. It consists of a square of Tyvek ‘Homewrap’ (available Bunnings in 30 metre rolls for a bit over $150) 8’ x 8’ square. The ‘wings’ consist of another square the same size cut in half. One of these can be cut right off the roll; the other has to be sewn or stuck on (using Tyvek tape). (You end up with an isosceles triangle @ 16' x 23' x 16' on which you pitch like this. You can bring the 'wings' in towards the tree if rain/wind moves around to that direction - which it almost never does!) The tie-outs are tarp holders from Aussie’s.

I have a more compact model (shorter wings) made out of .48oz/yd2 cuben fibre which weighs 200 grams (as seen here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hammock-camping-double-bunking/)! This is my ‘always’ emergency tent which goes with me everywhere – even on day walks: so often these can turn into an overnight trip

I have spent a night sitting (on a piece of thick bark) in front of a fire in the open on frozen ground, in a light snowstorm wrapped only in one of those mylar ‘space blankets which fit inside your breast pocket (Never be without one!). It wasn’t very comfortable, and I didn’t get a lot of sleep – but I am still here to tell the tale. Expect things like this to happen to you, and be prepared!

Two of those ‘blankets’ can make quite a serviceable tent and a sleeping bag. You will need some dental floss or similar to make tie-outs: simply lasso (& capture with the material) a rolled up ball of earth or a gum nut etc with the floss and you can tie out to trees, rocks or sticks driven into the ground. I always carry some dental floss/Dyneema fishing line in my first aid kit (and a self-threading needle – old eyes, you see) for making repairs to my clothes, (hounds sometimes!) – or myself! See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pitching-the-poncho-warning-this-may-save-your-life/

17/06/2015: Tyvek Twin Fire Shelter: I have completed this design today. I know it will make a wonderfully comfy shelter for 2-3 people. The photos are of the prototype. The tent is 6’ (1.8m) high at the front. Some finishing work and bush-testing is needed, but if you are keen to make your own and try it out, here goes: Again, (as with the single: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-solo-fire-shelter/) it can be cut from a single piece of Tyvek three metres wide, so no sewing is necessary. You will have to attach a floor (if you want one, or ground sheets if you do not. You should have plenty of scraps of Tyvek left by now! If you are not sewing, I recommend the tarp holders pictured (available from ‘Aussie Disposals’ (or elsewhere). There are only about three types of tarp holders which actually WORK (all button type). These are probably the best but not the lightest. The large disc and rubber band ensures the tarp is not damaged. You will also need a roll of 2” Tyvek Tape probably available from the same folk you bought the Tyvek from. You can use it for making a hem (taping completely around a ¾” hem will make a nice strong one). You can also use it for reinforcing the tie out points (eg both sides where you are going to attach the tarp holders. Or, learn to sew (in this case hems, Tyvek reinforcing patches plus webbing tie-outs). Again, the two guys ropes at the front meet the ground about where the wings/flaps do when they are in fully open mode, so there is nothing to trip over. You might want to include a few of Joe Valesko’s stick-on tie outs here and there perhaps to keep a side pulled out, so here is the link again (http://www.zpacks.com/large_image.shtml?accessories/tape/stick_on_loop_clear_l.jpg) The basic pattern will give you the option of making three slightly different configurations: You can make a shelter with a square windward end, or one which tapers to a point, you can make a shelter which is approx 4’ (1.2m) wide at the windward end and 8’ (2.4m) at the open end, or a slightly smaller and lighter one which is approx 3’ (.9m) wide at the windward en and 7’ (2.1) wide at the open end. I found that if I tapered it at the windward end, and again slightly at the sides, I achieved an octagonal shaped tent with just that many tight corners ready to cut the wind. PS: Post will be updated with diagrams and instructions ASAP.

Best tarp holder

Windward South View

Windward North View

North Side View

Partially Closed

South Side View

Fully Closed

Fully Open

Tarp Top View

Tarp Bottom View

18/06/2015: ONE POLE TYVEK TIPI: The ‘skin’ of a tipi is very nearly a semicircle. If it is a ‘normal’ 60 degree (cone) tipi, then (apart from a slight overlap for keeping out drafts), that’s exactly what it is. A semicircle with radius ‘R’ (eg 10’ – the width of the widest roll of Tyvek) will make a tipi which is approximately 10’ wide at the base. (C = 2xPixR - divided by 2 for a semicircle; D= C/Pi, so C = 2x3x10 = 60/2=30/3=10 – taking Pi as approx ‘3’). So, any width of fabric will make a tipi which has a diameter the same as its width. You will need a piece that is twice as long as its width to make your tipi. If you cut out a little more of a circle than a semicircle, you will get a tipi which has a less acute angle than 60 degrees (say 45 degrees) and which is correspondingly wider (and shorter). (You would need to stick this piece on with Tyvek tape). You can work out how wide by dividing the piece’s circumferential length by 3. This is close enough. A 10’ wide tipi is quite a handy size, (will obviously sleep at least four people) but is hard to erect unless you tie the ‘skin’ to the pole first (otherwise you can’t reach). If you are using only one pole you will need someone to hold the pole whilst you peg the sides down. That’s why folk normally used 3 or more poles (usually six) tied together at the top where you attached the skin’. You can cut the circular edge into eg six equal straight lines (a hexagon) if you like, and it will still pitch flush to the ground, and give better angles to the wind. You can make such a tipi out of a readily available blue poly tarp for less than $20 if you want (I have). If you are going to have a fire in your tipi, you must beware of carbon monoxide. You need airflow in at the bottom and out at the top. Any open fire is almost IMPOSSSIBLY smoky. A chimney is a great idea. Titanium Goat (http://www.titaniumgoat.com/cstove.html) has lightweight (titanium) stoves and chimneys for just this purpose. The chimney will probably NOT be hot enough to melt the Tyvek at the top, but if you are worried you can wrap that section of pipe with some fibreglass cloth or etc. As you will see at his website, he also makes really lovely tipi tents out of silnylon (pictured). This is something like what your Tyvek tipi will look like, (sans the cost!) Such an arrangement would suit car, motorcycle or horse based camping better than backpacking, but maybe you and your friends are quite strong!

Titanium Goat Vertex Tent

Here it is with a stove:

12/05/2015: COL TOWNSEND WHELEN”S FORESTER TENT: (Bradford Angier 1958):

‘If you need to cut weight or cost, the Forester tent is a good solution. It's one of the best tents ever devised for a chronic woods loafer, particularly for one who yearns to live close to nature and who objects to spending any of his or her outdoor hours confined in a closed canvas or nylon cell.

The Forester tent is the cheapest of all wilderness tents, either to make yourself or to buy. It's the easiest and quickest to construct and pitch, too. And considering its scant weight and bulk, it's the most comfortable in which to live and do your few camp chores. Also, with the exception of the Whelen lean-to tent, it's the easiest to warm with a campfire out front.

The one weak point of the Forester, at least at first glance, is that if you try to fly proof it, you'll ruin its inexpensiveness and functional simplicity. In bug time, however, it's an easy matter to buy a mosquito bar to drape over the front opening . . . or to make one yourself, or to hang or stake a net closure over your bed.

The Forester tent is triangular in shape when pitched. The smallest practical dimensions for one person, or for two who don't mind a bit of crowding, is about 7' wide at the open front, 3' wide at the back, and 7' deep from front to rear. The peak should stand about 6' above the ground in front, while the triangular rear will be some 3' high. With the entire tent open to the fire in front, the angles are such that heat and light will be reflected throughout the sheltered area. It is, of course, a tent for the wilderness, where poles and firewood are plentiful. This tent is usually pitched with three poles and eight stakes cut at the campsite. The ridgepole should be long enough to extend from the peak and to pass down and out through the opening at the top of the back wall, at such a tilt that it will rest on the ground about 3' behind the tent. Two shorter poles are arranged in front as a bipod brace and, holding the ridgepole at their crossing, run from the peak to the front corners.

The size illustrated in the Image Gallery is for one or two campers, with beds arranged along the side walls. The model I use is made of closely woven, waterproofed cotton that weighs five ounces per square yard, cut and sewn to the shape and dimensions shown in the Image Gallery, with an extra inch being allowed around the edges for hemming.

Note how the bottoms of the sides are angled back 1' to make the tent sit right on the ground. To do this, cut your pattern from rectangular canvas as shown by the dotted lines (see Image Gallery), then angle the front and back. The piece for the rear wall is cut off square at the top, so that when it's stitched to the main body of the tent at the rear, a hole is left at the top of the back wall through which the ridgepole can extend. Total weight for this size Forester tent is about four pounds.’

NB: This weight assumes 12 oz/sq yd canvas is used. If using 1.75 oz/sq yd Tyvek, 1.3 oz/sq yd silnylon or .51 oz/sq yd cuben fibre the weight will be correspondingly much less. You could easily add two ‘wings’ or storm flaps to the front which could be closed at need, and a sewn in floor of (eg 1.3 oz silnylon waterproofed as described here http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Silnylon1/index.html) and two overlapping flaps of .7 oz/sq yd insect mesh. You could have an excellent standing room ‘fire tent’ which weighs between 500 grams and 1 kg depending upon materials. PS: I would not leave the gap for a pole. These lighter weight materials don’t need a pole at all but can be simply pegged out – a pole also only creates a drip line.

086-043-03

24/07/2015: Making an SUL tarp, pack, and stuff sack out of a single 5-yard piece of spinnaker fabric: What a great project – even lighter in cuben, of course: http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/make_your_own_gear_5_yards_to_sul_part_1.html#.Va2ux_nq3ct

Make Your Own Gear: 5 yards to Super Ultra Light – Part 1, Introduction - 2

The finished 6.3 ounce tarp, with protected ends and catenary ridgeline.

14/02/2016: Trailstar: This an interesting, innovative concept (http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=51&products_id=102) . It provides a huge shelter area for a small weight spend (18 oz – 513g in Silnylon; 11oz – 313g in Cuben) . Could be good for a small group of hunters. Each might also carry something like this:http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tarp-bathtub-groundsheet/ Mountain Laurel Designs have a deserved reputation for quality products: we own a number of their products and are more than happy with them (eg Supermid Tent & Event Rain Mitts). On my wish list is one of their Exodus Packs (http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=103) with the addition of their Lightweight Suspension Upgrade (http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=208) This would make an excellent pack for backpacking or hunting.

08/06/2016: DIY Self-Tensioning Guylines: I am not so keen on elastic rope (it is heavier than dyneema) and much of the problem of stretch can be overcome by caternary cutting the silnylon or using fabrics with very low stretch such as tyvek or cuben fibre, but nonetheless this method of keeping your tent taut is worth sharing: http://gossamergear.com/wp/diy-self-tensioning-guy-lines-2 A sprung tip on my tent pole ( I use a one-pole set-up) would have the same effect with less trouble. May work on this.

Self Tensioning guylines

15/06/2015: DIY Hiking Gear: I guess I started doing this before I was 13 (or so). One of my first projects was (what is NOW called – there WAS no name, or THING then) a bivy bag which I sewed out of PU coated 2oz green ripstop nylon as I didn’t have a tent, and my (kapok, Yes! – how many today know what THAT was – or could recognise a kapok tree?) sleeping bag and any available tent would not have both fitted in my A-frame pack! Quite some years I didn’t have a tent. One of my first was a sort of one boy GI ‘PUP Tent’ something like those ex-WW2 affairs, also in PU ripstop mayhap called a ‘Rancho Poncho’. First few times I took Della camping (on my Honda CB175 motorbike!) we just slept under the stars with maybe a nylon poncho over us to ward off heavy dew. I have slept under a poncho many times since then. Finally we bought a two-person hiking tent, the forerunner of many. Now, in old age, we are back to some sort of tarps again such as THIS homemade one: (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-solo-fire-shelter/) I posted about the other day. Instructions are being updated. Check back. Others 2 + person ones are in preparation. There IS a great deal of pleasure and satisfaction to be gained in MAKING and USING your own gear, so we do. Here and there in these pages you will find other suggestions for homemade gear; I have had a lot of fun making various hiking stoves such as you might find here: http://zenstoves.net/ or in earlier posts. We have made quite a lot of clothing over the years, as well as hammocks, hammock insulators, quilts, tarps (obviously), tents, a variety of bags, pouches, pockets, leashes, belts, harnesses, ponchos, fishing gear…all sorts of things. For example, you can make a pot which weighs a couple of grams from a beer can which you can boil with an esbit on a stand made from some 1 cm mesh. A wide rubber band will prevent you burning your mouth when you drink your coffee. Quest Outfitters (http://www.questoutfitters.com/ http://thru-hiker.com/materials/index.php) have some very good patterns (and kits) and are very helpful and expeditious in sending materials. For example, their ‘Bilgy Tarp Tent’ looks quite interesting. I will adapt some of its features for a new two person ‘fire shelter’. Obviously it would be much lighter in cuben, or more fireproof in Tyvek. Their G4 pack pattern and kit are excellent. The G4 was my first ultralight pack, a brilliant concept (approx 450 grams & 60 litres!) from Gossamer Gear founder Glenn van Peski – one I still use when I am packrafting, as it is a HUGE pack. Della sewed two webbing tubes into it vertically on each side into which we slipped carbon fibre arrow shafts to simulate a pack frame for weight distribution. This added less than 40 grams and worked quite wonderfully. http://gossamergear.com/ have some GREAT ultralight gear (and an interesting website - eg see ‘Tips & Tricks). I have spent quite a few dollars with them over the years. Their featured product this month is an 18 gram trowel. Well, if you need one! Their carbon fibre hiking poles are wonderful! Ray Jardine (http://www.rayjardine.com/) pretty much ‘invented ‘ the ultralight pack (and concept). He is known as the ‘father’ of ultralight. He has a kit for one, and an excellent tarp. I still use his ‘Bomber’ hat (30 grams) every time it’s a really cold night. His quilt kit was an original great idea too. His website details his many amazing adventures, including skiing to the South Pole when he was over 60! He also sells some of his own excellent hiking books. Ray Garlington was one of the first to devise a ‘wood gasification’ stove for backpacking: http://web.archive.org/web/20130820032105/http://www.garlington.biz/Ray/WoodGasStove/ I have spent many hours trying to make this work. Another guy perfected it with his ‘Bushbuddy’ stove: http://bushbuddy.ca/ (well worth the C$120) - or you can make your own, eg http://www.instructables.com/id/Woodgas-Can-Stove/ or http://www.treehugger.com/clean-technology/build-ultra-efficient-diy-wood-gasifier-backpacking.html A 150 gram stove which does not require any fuel (other than what you find on the trail) is a great idea. This guy has a lighter - 86 grams - (and more expensive) one: http://www.suluk46.com/products.html Here is another site which has some interesting plans and kits: http://www.backpacking.net/makegear.html, likewise this one: http://jasonklass.blogspot.com.au/search/label/DIY%20Backpacking%20Gear There are many others, but these will be enough to get you started. Have FUN!

wpe60.jpg (5393 bytes)

G4 Ultralight Backpack

23/04/2016: Catenary Cut tarp: Looking for an ultralight sewing project? Six Moon Designs have this excellent free pattern for a cat cut tarp complete with insect netting plus sewing instructions: https://www.sixmoondesigns.com/images/stories/pdf/Pattern_NightWing.pdf A number of others are available if you look for them, eg here: http://www.backpacking.net/makegear.html PS: The ‘Jones Tent’ (approx 500 grams) is not named after me!

photo 20120318_ATB_ANF_137_W.jpg

27/09/2016: Gear Repairs: Tenacious Tape: Many folks have long carried some duct tape for this purpose. I have carried cuben tape for many years http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=1797&action=edit . I can attest that it successfully repaired a Neoair pad which had been relentlessly chewed by a certain puppy, and that the repair has held now for 3+ years! One of the virtues of this ‘new’ tape (apart from that it sticks to practically everything) is that it comes in rolls up to 3” (75mm) wide, Such a roll weighs 21 grams. It could easily be cut in half: https://www.mcnett.com/gearaid/tenacious-tape#10691

Additional Information

Length 500mm

Weight 21 grams

Color Clear, various

Width 75mm

13/06/2015: Cuben tape: This stuff is WONDERFUL. First, there is its obvious utility in joining/repairing cuben fibre. There is a single-sided and a double sided version – and it comes in various widths). You normally use it to make joins to create a wider tarp, or to make ‘no-sew’ cuben fibre stuff sacks. Where it really comes into its own is for repairs. This stuff sticks (well nigh invisibly) to all sorts of things and makes excellent waterproof repairs. My house and camping equipment have bits of it stuck in all sorts of unlikely places. It repairs most ripped raincoats and tents very well (Check first). Packrafts too. Where I have found it really wins out is in repairing leaks in Thermarest Neoair pads. These guys are SO light they are fairly easy to puncture. Mostly I get minute thistle holes in mine which take ages to let the pad down (in the middle of the night!). They also suffer from my habit of using them for padded insulated floors in our packrafts. Jumping in and out of them at portages drives all sorts of nasties into their delicate fabric. Spot has excelled himself here too. In his puppyhood he managed to drag one pad out through the doggie door onto the lawn where he had quite a lot of leisure time CHEWING it. THAT pad looks somewhat like Kevin Rudd after a VERY bad morning’s shaving. It doesn’t QUITE have more tape than pad, but you can certainly tell that it has been repaired. The great thing about cuben tape for repairing air mats is that it works INSTANTLY. The proprietary Thermarest repair kits (in my experience) work slowly and poorly at best – be WARNED!

16/12/2014: Who needs a tent? Don’t use one myself. Everything you ever wanted to know about tarps: http://www.equipped.org/tarp-shelters.htm

15/03/2015: Best tarp clips: http://www.shelter-systems.com/gripclips/products.html

09/06/2016: A good emergency lightweight tarp clip that will not let go: http://www.easyklip.com/ Mini = 12 grams. Of course, this remains the lightest tarp clip: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/worlds-lightest-tarp-clip/

Multi-purpose fastener

09/07/2013: Can’t WAIT for this stuff to hit the supermarket shelves here. The world just keeps getting better and better (despite the tyranny of choice!) : http://www.geek.com/science/neverwet-superhydrophobic-spray-hits-stores-this-week-1560808/

09/07/2013: Another great product: Ultra Ever Dry: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfUaKXasdD4

THIS WORKS: A Treatment for Silnylon Floors: http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Silnylon1/index.html

HAMMOCKS: I HAVE camped out in hammocks a lot. I have tried Hennessy’s, but find it almost impossible to keep my back warm in them, or to keep a sleeping mat under me for that purpose. Della can do it though. A conventional hammock with an inflatable mat is just fine for me. The original rectangular Thermarest Neoair did a very good job and kept the sides of the hammock wide enough that it did not compress the sleeping bag against the shoulders and arms (thus creating a cold spot). You can make any hammock lie straighter by including a centre line (Tom Hennessy has a patent on this, but anyone can use it, just not manufacture it). If you add a cord tensioner to it (such as a clam cleat) you can adjust the level of comfort, but a centre line is not really necessary (though handy for hanging things from, eg with a caribiner).

As you don’t need a pillow in a hammock, just place your inflatable pillow under your knees and you will have a delightful night’s sleep. The great thing about a hammock is that you can sleep dry in it when there is six inches of water flowing underneath! I have done this on the Baw Baw Plateau (in winter apprx below minus 10C) which is so humid that in the cooler months rain actually falls out of the air UNDERNEATH your hammock tarp – which spooked me the first time I saw it…but you survive…or you do not. If you do not, you don’t write about it, so…).

People advocate a variety of sophisticated hammock tarps, but a simple 8’ x 8’ square of silnylon works well. I have been completely dry with a 7’ x 7’ one on a night when my friends were just about drowning in their tent nearby. Being able to camp dry in very wet places such as Fiordland, a hammock works well so long as there are suitable trees. There just about never are for TWO separate hammock campers! However, I have camped out double-bunked in two hammocks with someone as small as Della above and me below under one tarp. You have to boost the upper person in, so it is best if they don’t have to get up too many times during the night for toilet stops!

One other advantage of hammock camping is the reduced chance of being struck by lightning (as there is no way the current can pass through you). I was camped out one night at Mt Darling Creek in the most spectacular thunderstorm, with lightning striking the ground repeatedly for almost an hour within a couple of hundred yards of me. Very stimulating! That night the deer did not come to honk at me – as they usually do when I am camped out alone in the Victorian Alps. Sometimes as many as a dozen will line up and serenade me for as long as half an hour. I NEVER shoot at deer at night – just isn’t at all fair!

There is a special knot for tying a hammock to the tree (else you will never get it undone. You need plenty of spare rope. Go around the tree, then around the rope, then around the tree. Do that three times, then tie a simple running knot. Even if you just tuck the end in the friction against the tree will prevent the rope from coming loose – and you WILL be able to undo it!

Making the hammock: If you don’t sew, you can make a hammock out of an approx 3 metre length of 2 0z/yd2 nylon rip-stop. Tie a simple overhand knot at each end, then attach the suspension ropes inside the knot; tie to tree: Voila!

8' x 8' cuben tarp by (http://www.zpacks.com/shelter/tarps.shtml) with wings can be pitched as a 'fire' shelter (as shown) or used as a hammock tarp (one end closed as storm shelter) 200 grams Hernes Spur Wonnangatta River 2011-11-18.

Hammock camp Mt Darling Creek 2008/09/21: Large storm tarp shown (unnecessary even for Fiordland, but VERY dry)

04/08/2013: Practically everything you ever wanted to know about hammock camping (plus a little more): http://theultimatehang.com/archives/

PACKS: A comfy pack will certainly make the difference between a hiking experience being enjoyable and its being a nightmare you are not going to want to repeat. When I was a young teenager I started out with an old ex-army framed pack which was hideously uncomfortable as soon as you put any weight in it. (It made me well understand the punishment that is crucifixion). In those days the latter was fairly unavoidable eg even summer-weight sleeping bags then available usually weighed several kilos and pretty much filled up the pack. Adding a tent meant the three items (pack + tent + bag) weighed at least 10 kilos, so even an overnight hike (with a change of clothes was going to push your pack weight well over 20 kilos. Lots of folk were carrying eg 40 kilos for a hike of 4-5 days. Nightmarish. I still see people (eg slight young women) in hiking shops trying on huge ‘bulletproof’ framed packs whose empty weight is 3-4 kilos. This is just madness. You should not expect a pack to last forever. It probably will if it’s that heavy because you will very seldom use it again! DON’T buy a pack which weighs over half a kilo! Be warned!

Zpacks 'Arc Blast' Pack 52 litre = 482 grams

LIGHTWEIGHT PACK: Once you begin to lower the overall weight of the contents of your pack, a framed pack is just unnecessary anyway. I think Ray Jardine was one of the first advocates of the frameless pack (and lightweight hiking). He still has an interesting website here (http://www.rayjardine.com/index.shtml) where you can buy a kit for $70 to make your own should you want to, and a number of other interesting things. A number of manufacturers offer very lightweight packs. My first lightweight frameless pack was a Gossamer Gear G4 which cost about $100 (http://gossamergear.com/packs/backpacks/g4-backpack.html) and weighs 450-480 grams, and is still just about unbeatable! You can get the pattern (free) and materials to make your own from these folk http://www.questoutfitters.com/patterns-packs-cart.htm#G-4 ULTRALITE BACKPACK I had Della sew in some light webbing tubes into mine into which I inserted carbon fibre arrow shafts in (@30 grams) to increase load transfer. Now I use a Big Agnes ‘Cyclone’ chairs frame members as load transfer underneath a GG ‘Sitlight’ pad which works well with this pack. I see they now have inflatable ‘Air Beam’ pads (http://gossamergear.com/packs/pack-accessories/gg-airbeam-pack-frame.html ) which MAY do this better but they weigh 60-70 grams & which also provide you with a seat/pillow, but I doubt they are worth it, and they definitely can’t be made into two pairs of emergency shoes! The G4 is a huge pack which easily carries a week’s supplies, an Alpacka canoe etc (approx 2.5 kg) in great comfort. Without the canoe, you should be able to head off with 7-10 days’ food and everything else you need for a week’s , (or even a fortnight’s) hiking in temperatures down to zero C with a pack weight well under 12 kg, and decreasing every day as you eat the food – and drink the rum!) I also have one of Joe Valesko’s (http://www.zpacks.com/backpacks.shtml) ‘Blast’ packs @ 369 grams and a (http://www.sixmoondesigns.com/packs/Swift.html) ‘Swift’ @ 450 grams and another Gossamer Gear offering, the ‘Mariposa’. Mountain Laurel Designs looks as if they might be worth checking out too. All work well and are 500 grams or less. PS: Six Moon Designs seem recently (with their news models) to have ‘lost the plot’. If I was buying a new pack, I would either buy the G4 (cheaper) or zpacks Arc Blast.

Della & I (combined age then 120) heading off from Freney Lagoon on the second day of our walk across Tasmania in 2011. We took seven days. Between us we were carrying @ 20 kilos & enough food (& booze!) for 10 days. These zpacks ‘Blast’ packs are 52 litres including pockets. Today we would be carrying several kilos LESS.

Zpacks Zero Backpack

12/09/2016: Ultralight Glasses Case: If you have got to my age (or had other bad luck) you no doubt need glasses. I now wear progressive frameless titanium glasses (14 grams) all the time, but I also need a spare pair in case I lose or break them. The quite lightweight case they came in from Zenni weighs 47 grams. I knew I could do better.

This is 350 ml (12 oz) PET drink bottle I cut down with a craft knife (I should have left a tiny bit more of the neck) and some bubble wrap = 12 grams, a saving over over an ounce ie more than the weight of a muesli bar on the trail, or more than enough weight of fuel (metho) to cook a meal. Every little bit of weight saved helps lighten the load and means you can go a little bit further, easier.

Indeed switching to these frameless glasses (two pairs) also saved me over an ounce (28.5 grams)! I have simply rolled the glasses up in the bubble wrap and squeezed them through the neck. These flexible titanium frames are quite difficult to break anyway: you can just about stand on them, so they will be fine in the ‘possibles’ bag in my pack.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/zenni-the-hearing-company/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/securing-hearing-aids/

21/08/2016: A Gorilla in the Hand: I have been giving my new Gossamer Gear Gorilla Backpack a test run (http://gossamergear.com/gorilla-ultralight-backpack-all-bundle.html - NB: they have a special price on them right now).

All the gear and food for a couple of days for myself and my dog do fit in the smaller (40 + 8 litre pack) – as you can see. Shrinking your kit (from 52 litres) like this exercises a profitable degree of discipline which it is worth emulating. I omitted nearly 1.5 kg I didn’t need for a short-ish trip. Some are things I might need (say) on a ten day trip in colder weather without resupply and where help is far from hand. A few are things I can probably permanently do without. Even so I have food aplenty for myself and Spot (the JR) as well as his bed, and room to lash the pack raft on the top if I wanted to. The other side of the pack can easily hold a water bottle, hiking poles and the paddle, even my gun in take down mode. If I was going away just by myself with this pack I reckon I could squeeze a 5-7 day expedition into it and still lash the packraft on top! Spot’s bed and food alone take up space that could otherwise be occupied by at least three days of my food. On this occasion I am also carrying a pair of crocs for the river crossing, & etc…I am working on smaller/lighter dry shoes.

The pack (as configured) has four handy pouches for odds and ends one might need on the trail: two on the hip-belt and two Gossamer Gear shoulder pouches I bought for my G4 long ago. (http://gossamergear.com/shoulder-strap-pocket.html) I am using the (supplied & easily removable) waist belt and aluminium stay both designed for serious load transfer. I might sometimes omit both to save weight, as the shoulder straps are very soft, wide & comfortable so that I might not need load transfer for such a small (40 litre) pack. Or I might swap the hip belt for a simple home made webbing one and substitute the ‘Sitlight’ pad the pack came with for an Air Beam pad which will do much of that work at a lesser weight penalty, a saving of say 250 grams. (See http://www.theultralighthiker.com/air-beam-pad/ & http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-air-beam-inflatable-pack-frame-update/)

The Gorilla is made from Gossamer Gear’s new ‘Robic Nylon’ material which is even tougher than the 4.8 oz/yd2 Dyneema material we are used to seeing in such heavy duty packs. It would take some extreme effort to puncture it, and I very much doubt you could rip it without a very heavy, sharp knife! Not something which is going to happen with any normal bush or trail wear and tear anyway. As such the pack will make an excellent hunting daypack being well able to hold up to heavy use in thick scrub, blackberries etc, at the same time having the load carrying capacity to pack out a heavy load of meat should the occasion arise. The muted grey colour suits this purpose well as does its expandability. It can be shrunk down to comfortably contain less than 20 litres with those compression straps on the side and top, and the heavy duty elastic mesh in the rear pocket – but it quickly transforms into a heavy haulage 48 litre pack when eg you have a monster to lug out of some deep gully in a remote hunting spot. There are lots of other loops to tie extra gear on should you need to plus ice axe and hiking pole fittings. Inside you will find a hydration sleeve and drinking tube keeper loops to both shoulder straps. With the two shoulder pouches I have added there are seven external pockets plus two compartments inside (counting the hydration pocket).

Below is a breakdown of what I managed to fit on/in this excellent pack. Here it is on the chair with the packraft strapped to the top. You will note the two reflective strips glowing at you from the shoulder straps. That’s a good safety feature as you can often find yourself walking out in the dark. It has reflective strips on the back too.

NB: It’s a lot of individual items isn’t it? I carry pretty much the same kit for a weekend as for a week. I admit I have still a few double-ups (3 head torches and multiple lighters for example) and a small number of things which might be dispensed with, but everything here has been needed and used, though obviously I don’t always carry a canoe, machete, hunting equipment or a pair of Crocs.

Here are the contents of the external pockets (I could easily fit more). Left to Right, Bottom to Top: Rutalocura (shortened) hiking poles, UL paddles (they do break down further); orange Gossamer Gear Trowel; Mountain Laurel Designs UL gaiters, Crocs; 2 litre Platypus, 2 dog bowls, 1 litre Platypus; Klymit Packraft plus inflation bag (attached); Gerber Brush Thinner Machete; home made Tyvek Deer Hunter’s Tent (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-deer-hunters-tent/); Snaplock bag with glasses cleaner; self winding watch and compass; on green cuben stuff sack: Fenix head torch with homemade elastic headband, Gossamer Gear Stickpic, Minibic; on blue cuben stuff sack: Maratac torch/lantern attached to some Dyneema to suspend it, Leatherman Micra, Photon torch and headband/string, Minibic, Eze-lap sharpener; Spare blades and Razorblaze knife, 308 shells plus magazine, 2 Handletie meat bags, length of embryo wire for cutting bone, white cuben stuff sack; snaploc bag with hearing aid securing device; Dehydrated water ie lollies and chewie; on white cuben stuff sack: Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini phone & waterproof case.

Contents inside pack: two (grey and white) cuben food bags = 2 days food for self + dog; grey cuben rain kilt; yellow Event rain coat; on blue sea to Summit pack liner: white cuben ‘Possibles’ bag, Cyclone chair, in white cuben bag = JR dog sleeping bag, red S to S clothes bag, S to S grey waterproof daypack; front: blue S to S bag containing sleeping bag, bed; green cuben bag containing cookset.

Sleeping kit: Montbell UL super spiral #3 down bag in grey stuff sack, Thermarest Neoair Womens sleeping pad, Exped UL pillow, S to S ultrasil bag.

Cookset: Toaks 1110 ml pot with frypan lid on green cuben bag, Toaks titanium windscrren, Suluk TDW stove on white cuben bag, S to S Spork, 500ml Platypus for meths, in snap;loc bag, spices, shower cap, bicycle inner tube and esbit fire lighters, Minibic; measure; Vargo 450 ml titanium mug; scourer in snaploc; can lid and Brasslite Stove Turbo 1d.

Spare clothes: on red S to S Ultrasil drybag: Montbell Therma wrap vest, Goosefeet down socks, Montbell Ex Light down jacket – also inside bag Ray Jardine ‘bomber’ hat; Mountain Laurel Designs Event rain mitts, Hadrina wool singlet; Mountain Hardware wind shirt; Holeproof Heroes wool socks; ½ fibre towel; Montbell Dynamo wind trousers.

‘Possibles’ bag contents: on green cuben bag: ulralight fishing kit, 2 handlines containing hooks, sinkers, bait, self threading needle (repairs), two springers, 4 polystyrene balls, alum foil for cooking fish; on green S to S bag, Iridium Sat Phone; on white cuben bag: spare glasses in plastic case, Kabar knife, Adventure Medical Kits space blanket bag (emergency day pack & ground sheet); snaploc with glasses cleaner; Bushnell mini solarwrap charger; on white cuben bag: cuben bag with charging connectors AAA to AA battery converters, in blue bag spare batteries = 6 Enerloop AAA, 2 camera, 2 phone, 2 Photon, 2 hearing aia; USB AA/AAA battery charger; first aid kit: Antisan (bites) ointment, Mylanta (indigestion), earbuds in snaploc, Leucotape on cuben bag containing variety of plasters and blister pads, triangular bandage (sling) below: elastic bandage, cuben bag with variety of tablets eg pain, inflammation, diarrhoea, allergy etc; Toiletries on white cuben bag: wet tissues, 2 pocket Kleenex (enough for a week!); below on small green cuben bag S to S ultralight head net (mozzies – sleep) and microdripper of insect repellent (Deet); magnifier on mirror; square of silnylon for repairs with 2 stickon tie outs on top; spare trekking pole basket; clip on glasses cleaner; bottom row: on snaplocc bag length Dyneema, glasses repair kit, various bits and pieces: 2 safety pins, 3 line locs, 2 tarp tie outs, I carabiner, I mitten hook, 1 cord loc, 1 spare mini compass; on cuben bag, cuben tape (repairs) rubber band, spare bottle cap; on white cuben bag: 2 lightload towels, comb, Aloksack (for camera); on blue cuben bag: microdripper bottles containing: handcream, suncream, deodorant, iodine, wash, anti fungal cream, tube anti inflammatory cream, tub toothpaste, tub heel balm; anti allergy cream.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=1812&action=edit

Posts about items mentioned in my pack contents (in the order mentioned) You will work it out. There are gaps. I can see some more posts I need to make!

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-poles/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-personal-hygiene/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-mitts-and-gaiters/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-worlds-greatest-machete/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-best-laid-schemes/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-deer-hunters-tent/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/watch-bands-for-hikingbushwalking/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/diy-head-torches/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/stick-pic/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/mini-super-torch-a-weeks-light-weighs-50-grams/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/leatherman-micra-multitool/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/photon-torch/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/if-you-could-only-carry-two-things-in-the-bush-what-would-they-be/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/?s=sharpener

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/never-have-to-sharpen-your-knife-again/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/308s/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/securing-hearing-aids/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dehydrated-water/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/rain-skirt/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dry-bags-sea-to-summit-ultra-sil-nano/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/cyclone-chair/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hunting-daypack/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-soft-pillow-and-a-warm-bed-under-the-stars/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ul-pillows/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-cook-pots/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/suluk-stove/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/bathtime-on-the-trail-the-one-gram-platypus-shower/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/how-to-light-a-fire-in-the-wet/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-egg-ring-ultralight-wood-burner-stove/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/alcohol-simmer-stoves/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/socks/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-pants/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/four-gram-fishing-handlines/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/bcb-fishing-kit/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/worlds-lightest-tarp-clip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/carry-a-knife/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/charging/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/eneloop-pro-aaa-battery/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/photon-torch/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/insects-can-ruin-a-camping-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dettol-hand-sanitising-wipes/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/rope-dont-leave-home-without-it/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-perfect-guy-line-for-a-hiking-tenttarp/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/best-tarp-clips-link/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/cuben-tape/

27/11/2016: Pimping a Gorilla: You can readily shave around 300 grams off Gossamer Gear’s Gorilla (http://gossamergear.com/gorilla-ultralight-backpack-all-bundle.html or Mariposa, etc) backpack by taking out the aluminium stay, removing the hipbelt and replacing it with an ultralight webbing belt, and replacing the Sitlight pad with an Airbeam pad. The pack will ride just about as well (well, just as well when you are only carrying a few kgs) and transfer weight to your hips, and you will have saved the weight of over half a day’s food!

If this is to be a permanent alteration you can also cover over the holes where the stay went through the body of the pack both sides with some Tenacious tape (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/gear-repairs-tape/) to make the pack a little more watertight. You need a double buckle, some 1” webbing and a piece of 1” Velcro and about five minutes on the sewing machine to effect the change. As I have pointed out elsewhere (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-tardis-folding-space/), you can make the pack carry a lot more than its rated 48 litres by utilising Sea to Summit’s Ultrasil Compression Bags (or similar) and by adding some tie-downs so you can carry another bag on top (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/attaching-tie-downs-to-your-pack/).

Completed belt ready for fitting. Note piece of velcro sewn on reverse side in the middle for attaching to pack.

Standard hip belt removed and ultralight belt fitted.

The final result; a very comfy pack which weighs a third of a kilo less!

Weights (my scales):

Gorilla Belt: 275 grams.

Alum Stay: 88 grams.

Replacement Belt: 32.5 grams.

Weight saving: 330 grams.

Pockets: If you need hipbelt pockets, you can add these

eg here: http://gossamergear.com/hipbelt-pocket.html 38 grams and US$8.80ea

or here: http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/beltpouch.shtml 21 grams and $US22.50ea.

NB: Gossamer Gear may not have the Air Beam pads at the moment.Mountain Laurel Designs still stock the Klymit (Air Beam) Pad in 11” x 25” size and US$35ea. You can cut it down and reseal with a hot iron to 20” if needed. It will then weigh approx 70 grams as compared with the Sitlight’s 50 grams: http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=46&products_id=186 They also stock Pack Pockets (if needed) at US$19ea.

Conclusion: With my Cyclone Chair (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/cyclone-chair/) in behind the Sitlight pad the Gorilla is more comfortable under load (for me) than it was with its original stay and hip belt, yet significantly lighter. According to the Specs it should weigh 624 grams in this configuration, (575 without the Sitlight) not too bad for a very tough comfortable 48 litre pack. I suspect that a narrow hip belt is normally better for folks who carry a bit of weight around their midriff themselves – as I do!

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-gorilla-in-the-bush/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-best-laid-schemes/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pimping-a-gorilla/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/linelok-pack-tie-down/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/attaching-tie-downs-to-your-pack/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-tardis-folding-space/

11/09/2016: Linelok Pack Tie Down: For those who don’t sew – or who don’t need to sew: You can use these wonderful little Clam Cleat Lineloks and some eg 2mm Spectra/Dyneema to lash your excess gear to your pack. I always use these lineloks on my tents and tarps: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-perfect-guy-line-for-a-hiking-tenttarp/

Here is my Klymit pack raft (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-packraft/) attached to my Zpacks Blast (Zero http://www.zpacks.com/backpacks/zero.shtml) @ 200 gram pack:

Here’s how to rig them:

Clam Cleats are available here in eg packs of 100 http://www.cleats.co.uk/browse-by-product/line-lok-guy-runners/cl266-mini-line-lokr-for-1-3mm-lines.html Also available locally (Oz - and quickly) here: http://www.tiergear.com.au/11/online-shop/clamcleat-cl266-mini-line-loks I find the Glow-in-the-Dark best. I always use the reflective line for guys etc too, eg: http://www.tiergear.com.au/11/online-shop/reflective-glowire-15metres The Clam Cleats are made by these folk: http://www.clamcleat.com/products/cleats-for-1-6mm-rope/cleats-rigged-on-a-rope-24.html who have some other interesting stuff.

1/09/2016: Attaching Tie Downs to Your pack:

First you need to get some ½” gross grain ribbon from you local sewing supplies store - such as Spotlight here in Oz. Then you will need some of the Linelocks you see I have sewn the gross grain to: You can buy these little guys right here in Oz, eg: http://www.tiergear.com.au/11/online-shop/cord-tension-lock @ A$0.40ea, or in the USA from eg: http://www.questoutfitters.com/Fasteners_%20Misc_Fasteners.htm#LINELOC_3_ US$0.45ea.

You sew a loop at each end of the gross grain ribbon (as shown – perhaps more neatly than this. I blame arthritis. My wife says my sewing will be plenty strong enough anyway which is the main thing!) Then you pass the end loop through the tie out loop on the pack then the Linelock back through the loop. Tie a boot lace on the other loop and pass it through the two holes on the Linelock and you have an adjustable tie down which can be used eg to lash your Alpacka raft to the top of your pack. See below:

The Gorilla has a pair of these orange loops sewn into the pack on each side at front and back. Here I have used three tie downs, the middle one crossing over through the haul loop. Works well. You could also lash a sea to Summit Ultrasil Compression Sack (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-tardis-folding-space/) here to carry extra food for a long hike, or etc.

23/08/2016: A Tardis, Folding Space: How to Fit More in Your Pack: ‘Ultralight’ is not just about weight. It can also be about how to do more with less. In this case I am thinking eg of using a 13 litre Sea to Summit compression sack to compress my clothes to 1/3 of their previous volume, thus saving 8.7 litres of space at a weight penalty of <50 grams. http://www.seatosummit.com.au/products/storage-bags/ultrasil-compression-sacks/?ref=

If I do the same thing with my sleeping bag, eg compressing it from 6 litres to 2 litres I save another 4 litres. Now the 12 litres saved (at a weight expense of approx 75 grams) will allow me to carry perhaps 6 kilograms of extra food – or enough for a journey of an additional 12 days in the same volume pack. If I go to the same trouble with my food - though it may only compress (carefully) in half, I think I would be able to carry all my gear plus perhaps a month’s food in an approx 50 litre pack.

The addition of a ‘pack lid’ attachment such as this one from Zpacks http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/backpack_lid.shtml will add a further 3.5 litres of food storage as well as providing a bum bag for excursions from camp along the way at a further weight penalty of from 47 grams. This addition will certainly mean that I can carry a month of food in a smallish backpack such as the Gossamer Gear Gorilla with its excellent suspension system, Zpacks Arc or Blast, or Mountain Laurel Designs Exodus. See http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-pack/ & http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-gorilla-in-the-hand/

Details:

This valve-free dry sack uses a breathable base made of waterproof eVent® fabric, which allows air to be pushed out, but keeps water from entering. Waterproof seams are double stitched and fully taped for excellent durability and resistance to moisture A roll-top Hypalon® closure with lid and 3 straps evenly compresses and maintains compressed size. The Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil Compression Dry Sack is roughly half the weight of the original Sea to Summit eVent Compression Dry Sack.

Closure : Drawcord

Compression straps: Yes

Waterproof: Yes

Material(s): EVent/Cordura nylon

Dimensions

6 litre = 6 x 14 inches - 2.3 ounces/65 grams

10 litre = 7 x 16 inches - 2.6 ounces/74 grams

14 litre = 8 x 18 inches - 3.2 ounces/91 grams

20 litre = 9 x 20 inches - 3.4 ounces/97 grams

Sea to Summits UltraSil Dry Sacks Specs for comparison:

Base x Height Volume Weight

11 x 24cm 1L 20g

13 x 29cm 2L 23g

15 x 33cm 4L 26g

17 x 46cm 8L 30g

22 x 53cm 13L 40g

25 x 61cm 20L 50g

30 x 70cm 35L 65g

31/05/2016: Fitting Your Backpack: This is really good advice. Apart from having a backpack which is too heavy and too large, the next biggest mistake people make is not having chosen/made it the correct torso length then not having put it on correctly: http://gossamergear.com/wp/how-to-size-and-fit-an-ultralight-backpack

Gossamer gear Gorilla: http://gossamergear.com/gorilla-ultralight-backpack-all-bundle.html

22/04/2016: Backpack Repairs: You may have noticed this photo in one of my recent posts about the South Coast Track: Della making stirling efforts to repair my backpack under trying conditions: overcast, rain, sandflies etc at the Waitutu Hut; a woman to die for: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/south-coast-track-fiordland-nz-waitutu-to-westies/

Now that we are home she has properly repaired my old backpack whose cuben fibre back panel had shredded and become quite irreparable with even more tape. She has carefully unpicked it and replaced the back panel and the rear pocket with 4.8 oz/yd2 dyneema (like the rest of the pack) so that it is now quite bullet-proof (yet still under 500 grams!)

This was a difficult repair, quite beyond my ability even if I had the hands for it (They are coming along though! http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hannibal-lektors-hand/ ), so I am more than delighted. Once I have sewn up our new octagon/decagon tent (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/catenary-curves/), we will be off somewhere to test it out!

The sewing is doubly difficult as first I had to download a sewing machine repair manual, then dismantle the sewing machine whose reverse gear stopped working. It is at the moment in pieces all over the dining room table. If/when I succeed in fixing it, it will be on with the sewing!

In the lounge room the pack seems most comfortable. I was having an incurable problem with load transfer in a replacement pack which caused me no end of trouble in NZ. Thank you Della.!

Once I am done with tent design I intend to move on to backpacks. Similarly to tents I feel most of the offering out there (in bought items) are unfit for purpose, too expensive and too heavy. Making your own backpack ought also give the opportunity to properly tailor the pack for fit which should improve comfort immensely.

23/09/2015: Ultralight Pack: It is quite difficult to buy a sub-600 gram pack (@55 litre) ‘off the shelf’ for reasonable money. I have tried a number over the years and would not carry anything else. The ‘list’ below is not exhaustive but intended as a good starting point:

Gossamer Gear’s (now 54 litre http://gossamergear.com/g4-ultralight-backpack-all-bundle.html) ‘tried and true’ G4 lead the field (576 grams inc hip belt) US$150 and was my first ‘ultralight’ pack; (You can sew in some pieces of webbing to enclose carbon fibre arrow shafts for load transfer or, I find Big Agnes’ ‘Cyclone Chair’ underneath the ‘Sitlight’ pad works quite well).

Mountain Laurel Designs have an excellent contender with their Exodus pack (485 grams http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=103) at US$195. Certainly the lightest and most rugged ‘off the shelf’ model. I’m sure Ron will sew in a couple of pad holders or webbing tubes for carbon fibre arrow shafts if needed for a custom charge. I might also option the pockets in solid Dyneema as I have found the netting which many manufacturers use for their pockets to not like blackberries overmuch, but Ron has at least made the critical wear surfaces of these from Dyneema!

3500ci/57L EXODUS Backpacker Magazine Award

Granite Gear’s Virga 2 (54 Litre) 540 grams http://www.granitegear.com/virga-2.html US$139 is another fine option.

Terra Nova’s Quasar 55 is another option at 436 grams http://www.terra-nova.co.uk/packs-rucksacks-poles/all-packs/quasar-55-pack/ and US$320

Zpacks Arc Blast 52 litres (595 grams http://www.zpacks.com/backpacks/arc_blast.shtml) $US315 looks a beauty and is pretty much the only one with load transfer, though I query if you are carrying less than 10 kilograms you need much load transfer. You can upscale to their Arc Haul in Dyneema (680 grams for 60 litres) if you want something completely bulletproof.

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Joe will still make you one of his ‘Blast’ packs (optioned from his ‘Zero’ range) - try the ‘Wayback Machine’ (https://archive.org/web/) to see what these were like. In 1.43oz/yd2 cuben a 58 litre ‘Blast’ weighs 235 grams approx $200 (Yes!); 339 grams in 2.9oz/yd2 ‘Hybrid’ cuben material; & probably around 420 grams in 4.8oz/yd2 Dyneema. I can’t see how you can go past that 339 grams. Della is still using her 235 gram model, but mine needed quite a lot of repair tape: I am rougher on my packs than she is, and mine has had a lot more use. The original Blast in Hybrid/Dyneema with Pad sleeves for my chair and Sitlight pad is my choice. I option an oversize pocket one side for my tent.

27/08/2016: The Ultralight Bush Chair

Reader Jenny wrote to tell me about these wonderful chairs she makes when hiking. She thinks she could get the pack weight of her chair down to 50 grams. ‘The material is just a rectangle of fabric, with big seams top and bottom (bottom for the cross piece of wood to thread through; and top for the cord to thread through and tie off at the top of the tripod).

On this one, I was using light plastic raffia type string to hold some of it together (surprising how strong it was) – and much heavier cord at the top than I would ever carry now (I am going to try dyneema thread/cord next time), but it gives the idea. We usually have no trouble finding wood around camp, to make this set up – sometimes I pinch wood that my husband has already innocently gathered for the fire, not realising it’s just what I want; and other times we have to look a bit further afield. If the lower cross piece of wood is put at the right height, and enough slack is allowed, it can be very comfortable to lay back in of an evening in front of the fire.

I am thinking the Robic nylon fabric and dyneema thread ties could do the job for around the 50gm mark (give or take)…

For the knots for the chair, I’ve been working with a system of coming from the back with loops, instead of pulling the full length of cord around – and retrieving the cord without tangle, at pack down time, has usually been OK (I find that four loops on each intersection with the lower cross bar give a reasonable hold – then I go at least a couple more to be sure…. I wrap around the top while all 3 pieces are on the ground) – It is all done ‘girl style’ (slightly different every time) and finished off with some kind of knot that just needs a pull at the end in order for it to come loose when time comes to undo it.’

They look like a great idea. Thanks Jenny . think you could make it even more comfortable by adding your inflatable mat. You can see that the chair is moveable, so you can take it inside your shelter when it rains.

Jenny’s chair, details:

Bush chair comp 2

Sitting back relaxing on the track to Tali Karng. Looks comfy.

bush chair comp 1

Possibly the original. This chair was spied by Ron Edwards ‘Australian Traditional Bush Crafts’ at Dick Rimmings Hut at Kooboora 145 km west of Cairns many years ago. As you can see it has made use of a forked stick and a hessian bag. Very minimalist.

bushchair004

13/11/2015: Cyclone Chair: https://www.bigagnes.com/Products/Detail/Accessory/CycloneSLChairKit I thought I had posted about this wonder long ago, but apparently not. I always carry one of these. You can make a comfy chair with it out of just about any pad. (I use the Thermarest Neoair X-lite Womens myself). The specs say it weighs 180 grams but I’m sure mine is about 15 grams less than that. It helps to give structure to a frameless pack such as Gossamer Gear’s G4 (along with an Airbeam pad http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-air-beam-inflatable-pack-frame-update/), it provides a dry seat which supports your (tired) back at the end of a long day and gets you 5-6” off the ground. I have spent many hours sitting on mine eg in front of a cheery fire in my Tyvek shelter: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-solo-fire-shelter/

19/06/2015: Hunting Daypack: Most everyone carries too much gear (whether multi-day hiking, or just as a day pack). After my first solo hike of the Dusky Track Fiordland in 2006 (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-adventures-1/), the first thing I did when I came home was THROW OUT my old hunting daypack. I had spent some time working out how to carry enough gear on (what was then) a 57 year old body to last me up to a week in very rugged country where sub-zero conditions, torrential rain, and being flooded in were reasonable likelihoods - whilst at the same time being safe and comfortable. In the end I started out carrying just over 13 kg which diminished by over half a kilo a day as I ate the food and drank the Bacardi 151. The same trip now would see me starting with less than 10kg. I was there last year. This year my wife and I hiked the South Coast Track which I wholly recommend (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-2014-2/ & following). I had chosen Gossamer Gear’s G4 pack at 454 grams to carry all this. Nine years later I am still using it for longer hunting and canoeing trips. When I weighed my hunting daypack I found it to be 1.25 kg EMPTY. Out it went, and off I went with my scales looking for something MUCH lighter. At the time I could not find anything locally less than about 300 grams, but now I know there are a number of quite serviceable smaller packs which weigh much less than that. My current http://www.zpacks.com/backpacks/zero.shtml 52 litre (!) hiking pack weighs 320 grams and has been with me MANY hundreds of rugged miles (eg across Tasmania, http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tasmanias-south-coast-track-hells-holiday/ etc) As you can see, Joe’s 27 litre Zero pack weighs 113 grams! That’s quite big enough for a day, probably overnight! You could also use it as a stow bag in your main pack, and take it out and use it when you had made camp. Here is another (waterproof) possibility: http://www.seatosummit.com.au/products/outdoor/ultrasil-dry-day-pack/ That taken care of, what should you take with you IN your day pack? Raincoat. I have one from zpacks which weighs 130 grams, is wonderfully waterproof and breathable. Warm Jacket: a synthetic insulated jacket is a MUST in wet bush in the winter months (down is GREAT – what I use hiking) but riskier when it is VERY wet and cold as in Gippsland winter. A Montbell Thermawrap vest (188 grams) and jacket (240 grams) would be hard to beat along with an eg Icebreaker merino wool beanie. Should you be prepared to sleep out? I think so. It happens sometimes to everyone! A very lightweight shelter and emergency space blanket bag is a good idea. You CAN make a mylar space blanket into a temporary shelter if you carry a bit of string - I always carry a small dental floss for 1st aid and repairs: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/rope-dont-leave-home-without-it/) I will cover this in a future post about my Home-made Poncho-Tarp. If you can’t light a fire, something like a Blizzard Bag (http://www.blizzardsurvival.com/product.php/100/blizzard-survival-bag) might live in your daypack, but at approx 385 grams, you might just as well carry your down sleeping bag and hiking mat (See http://www.finnsheep.com/HIKING.htm). Adventure Medical Kits have some great options. The most important thing you will EVER learn is HOW to light a fire when conditions are really dreadful. If you can’t do this, you really shouldn’t be out on the woods alone! You will need (another) mini Bic lighter in a snap lock bag in your daypack with some bicycle inner tube as a fire starter - I assume you already have a mini Bic in your pocket for testing wind direction – but sometimes it drops out of your pocket, so another is just good insurance. I ASSUME you will already have a knife so you can split wood and shave the inner dry wood to make excelsior, the very best fire starter. No doubt it has a secondary purpose for butchering/caping work. About the lightest suitable knife is this Ka-Bar: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/carry-a-knife/ A bone saw can be useful. I usually carry a length of ‘embryo wire’ available from veterinary suppliers. You just need to knot a length to two short pieces of wood (as handles) then you can saw someone’s head in half in a few seconds! You really should have a 1st Aid Kit. I have already mentioned the dental floss! (Always include some spectra string). A needle should accompany it – if only for sewing up your ripped trousers – I have also used it for sewing up ripped dogs,; it would be equally useful for sewing up ripped me! You CAN go overboard here. By the same token, you may carry, eg an elastic bandage or a sling (I have) in your pack for years before you really need them (in this case because my wife had dislocated her shoulder in a really REMOTE place!) Some Panadeine Forte and anti-inflammatories will enable you to keep on moving when otherwise it would be very difficult. I recommend some Imodium: in the event of diarrhoea it is invaluable! Blister pads: also essential. Some bandaging (Band Aids, Elastoplast) and Leucotape. Likewise, Small quantity of iodine (sealed in a drinking tube); likewise anti-fungal cream (Daktarin): a really bad sudden case in the crotch WILL be agony! Food: Probably the best thing to have in your daypack, because they will remain fresh for weeks and need no cooking are a full day’s ration of Carmen’s low GI Muesli bars (or like). If you are going to cook something, this is a great cup: http://www.traildesigns.com/cookware/vargo-450ml-travel-titanium-mug-eca355 Rand will also make you a Caldera Cone to fit it. The lightest cooking system. I will update this later.

03/11/2015: Osprey Ultralight Stuff Pack: Great new hiking day pack: 18 litres, three compartments, water bottle pocket, 90 grams assorted colours, available: http://www.backpackinglight.com.au/ I think you could squeeze an overnight trip into it. Worth a try anyway. Add it to the suggestions here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hunting-daypack/

23/10/2015: Air Beam Pad: I have always used Gossamer’ Gear’s ‘Sitlight’ pad as padding and partial load transfer in my GG and Zpacks packs. This new pad beats them hands down for comfort and getting that weight down onto your hips where it belongs. The pad itself (12” x19” x ¾”) weighs 68 grams compared to the ‘Sitlight’ @ 49 grams. Unfortunately the pump weighs 29 grams. The pad is quite difficult to blow up by mouth (but on most trips re-inflation should not be necessary). I am working on plugging the ¼” inflation tube with a ¼” irrigation plug(or similar). I also hope to be able to modify a drinking bottle cap with a 1/4” irrigation fitting and some glue – somethig like my post here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/sawyer-water-filter/) so I can blow the pad up (if necessary) with my Platypus/Sawyer drinking bottle. The pad can also be used to extend the length of a 3/4 length sleeping pad (eg Thermarest Neo – 230 grams), so the extra 12 grams can be seen as a saving of 98 grams as compared with carrying the Thermarest Neo Xlight Womens which I normally use: http://gossamergear.com/gg-airbeam-pack-frame.html See also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-pack/ & http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hunting-daypack/ & http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-ideal-pack/ Image result for gossamer gear air beam

25/04/2016: Sleeping Pad Pack Frame: If you don’t own a Gossamer gear pack but want to add an Air Beam to another frameless pack for load transfer you could try this idea: http://www.zpacks.com/large_image.shtml?backpacks/options/sleeping_pad_l.jpg

Zpacks Zero plus Gossamer Gear Sitlight pad shown.

We added this system ourselves with some elastic to a pack (plus one Klymit Air beam) with spectacular results, not least being a dry back! Mountain Laurel Designs also have a load transfer system (http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=208 using a Klymit pad (See also: http://gossamergear.com/gg-airbeam-pack-frame.html) which goes inside your pack).

You could try that (ie putting it inside your pack) anyway if you aren’t handy at sewing. I suspect the idea originated first with Ray Jardine (http://www.rayjardine.com/ray-way/Backpack-Kit/index.htm?g_page=9).

I prefer it on the outside of my pack for the dry back option, what a winner (!) and as a handy trail seat for rest stops.

24/10/2015: Klymit Air Beam Inflatable Pack Frame Update: After initially failing to inflate the pad from totally flat by mouth, I staggered to the incorrect conclusion that I needed some artificial means of inflation - hence the post about making an adapter for a Platypus bottle (which would work). Somewhere in there I bought a pack of Pope 4mm Sealing Plugs (possibly .1 grams each!) and decided to have another go. The inflation difficulty is caused by some narrow air channels along the top of the pad. You can easily infate the larger tube on the side. When you do that you can squeeze the air around these narrow channels after which the pad infates easily by mouth. Conclusion: you do not need to carry the pad inflater bulb, a saving of one ounce (28 grams – a Muesli bar or spare phone camera, etc). The pad tapers from 1 ½” (40mm) high to 1” (25mm). I tried lying on it with my ¾ length Neoair pad (230 grams) and it was fine. I will make an arrangement up so they can be hooked together using these, stick on patches from http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/tape.shtml So, a pack frame and 110 gram lighter sleeping arrangement for a weight investment of around 14 grams. Pictured the inflated pad having been plugged overnight, the discarded bulb inflater, the pack of Pope fittings, Zpack patches, etc: 71-2 grams in this format.

09/01/2016: Ultralight Hunting Daypack Update: Some folks have commented that they want a tougher pack than say the Osprey (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/osprey-ultralight-stuff-pack/) or Sea to Summit (http://www.seatosummit.com.au/products/outdoor/ultrasil-dry-day-pack/) or Zpacks Zero (http://www.zpacks.com/backpacks/zero.shtml) so they can carry lots of meat betimes (and are happy to carry over 100 grams! They should maybe move to the 4.8oz/yd Dyneema fabric available in a green check. Zpacks will option their Zero (in various sizes and with additional options from US$105 and 168 grams) in their ‘Hybrid Cuben 2.92oz/yd fabric or in this material. Mountain Laurel Designs also have these ready-made options available in Dyneema or Hybrid Cuben also with bespoke options (talk to Ron): http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/index.php?cPath=25 Their ‘Core’ at US$85 and 228 grams is a snap; for an overnight hike you might chose their ‘Burn’ I own a number of MLD products. Their quality and sewing are superb.

Mountain Laurel Designs have their own version of the Klymit Airbeam Pad in a configurable format (with instructions) http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=46&products_id=186 - US$35. They also offer a pad pocket option for their packs - which is great for load transfer: (http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=208) - US$45. The pad + pocket add about 120 grams.

1700ci(28L) 1300ci(22L) CORE

MLD Core

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-pack/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-ideal-pack/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/air-beam-pad/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-air-beam-inflatable-pack-frame-update/

15/05/2015: DRY BAGS: Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil Nano: Your choice with dry bags can save you quite a few grams. Without them, you could have some sadly wet gear and maybe a disastrous trip. You need to check the seam sealing on the inside of the bags before each trip to ensure they remain waterproof. If you have any doubt, pour a few litres of water into the bag, and see if any can find its way out. If it can, (other than at the opening) I KNOW Sea to Summit WILL replace them. I always use one of their pack liners and have had to swim rivers with my pack a number of times without getting anything inside wet! They have just brought out a new product line (the NANO) which promises 30% weight savings. I have not tried them yet, but I see that the four I currently use (pack liner, 13L, 8L and 1L) would save my 58.5grams! It all adds up. Neither have I tried zpacks’ but all their other products are excellent, and I might save slightly more with theirs (as well as better fitting them in my http://www.zpacks.com/ pack!) Here are some for comparison:

Zpacks: Pack Liner Dry Bag
44 L: weight: 1.9 oz. / 54 grams price: $39.95

Dry Bag

2.2 L: weight: .6 oz. / 17 grams price: $16.95
4 L: weight: .7 oz. / 20 grams price: $19.95
5.6 L: weight: .85 oz. / 24 grams price: $22.95

9.5 L: weight: .95 oz. / 27 grams price: $25.95
12.3 L: weight: 1.1 oz. / 31 grams price: $28.95

Roll Top Blast Food Bag
12.3 L : weight: 1.4 oz. / 40 grams price: $29.95

Sea to Summit: Ultra-Sil® Pack Liners

Size	Pack Volume	Oval base x Height	Weight
Small	< 50L	(49 x 16) x 79cm	74g
Medium	< 70L	(51 x 20) x 90cm	98g
Large	< 90L	(55 x 25) x 122cm	126g

Sea to Summit: UltraSil® Dry Sacks

ø11 x 24cm	1L	20g
ø13 x 29cm	2L	23g
ø15 x 33cm	4L	26g
ø17 x 46cm	8L	30g
ø22 x 53cm	13L	40g
ø25 x 61cm	20L	50g
ø30 x 70cm	35L	65g

Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil Nano Waterproof Dry Sack: Sizing and Specifications

Volume	Oval Base x Height (cms)	Weight (gms)
1 Litre	(13 x 7.5) x 24	13 g
2 Litre	(15 x 9.5) x 28.5	16 g
4 Litre	(17 x 11.2) x 33	19 g
8 Litre	(20 x 15) x 47	24 g
13 Litre	(22.5 x 16.5) x 52	27.5 g
20 Litre	(26 x 20) x 63	36 g
35 Litre	(31 x 25) x 70	46 g

EXPED FOLD DRYBAG

Size*	Color	Length x Width	Volume	Weight
XXS	lime	16 x 14 x 7 cm	1 l	12 g
XS	orange	21 x 14 cm	3 l	19 g
S	yellow	30 x 16 cm	5 l	24 g
M	red	35 x 18 cm	8 l	28 g
L	blue	42 x 22 cm	13 l	34 g
XL	emerald green	46 x 25 cm	22 l	41 g
XXL	cyan	52 x 30 cm	40 l	61 g

The other ‘large’ items in your pack are: sleeping bag, tent, mat, raincoat, cook-set, clothes. You should try to work each of these down as much as you can. I have already posted some thoughts on some of these items, eg:

14/06/2015: Cuben Stuff Sacks: Weigh less than HALF what snap-lock bags do (and beat everything else hands down), eg a camera pouch weighs 1.6 grams! Given that you need to sort your pack gear some way, you probably have a dozen or more bags which could be replaced with these beauties – probably saving you the equivalent of ½ to a day’s food (or three days’ booze if you drink Bacardi 151 when hiking!) You can buy them here: http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/stuff_sacks.shtml or you can make your own having bought the material (and patterns eg) here: http://www.questoutfitters.com/ You don’t need to be able to sew – you can make them just with cuben fibre and cuben tape (see yesterday’s post – available both sites above).

27/10/2015: Segmented: Stuff Sack Organizes Your Gear: The SegSac has internal dividers to keep clothes and gear from floating around in your pack or luggage. http://gearjunkie.com/segsac-stuff-sack See also: http://gobigear.com/products/the-hoboroll-pinyon-pine

SegSac Compress Stuff Sack with Dividers Gobi Gear

SLEEPING BAGS: We have found THESE to be the best all-round sleeping bags (at 624 grams) for a number of years: http://www.moontrail.com/montbell-ul-spiral-down-hugger-3-reg.php Their temperature rating is VERY generous. The older models (we have) used to weigh less than this, but the zip is a bit catchy. They are wonderfully comfortable because they stretch (unlike other sleeping bags). You can lie/sit up cross-legged in them! I have been quite comfortable down to minus 9C in mine (I am a warm sleeper!), though the addition of a Sea to Summit liner increases warmth by 8C at a weight cost of approx 250grams (http://www.seatosummit.com.au/products-page/travel-sleeping-bag-liners/thermolite-reactor-liner/) I have noticed that Joe Valesko over at http://www.zpacks.com/quilts.shtml has just started making sleeping bags. His equivalent bag would weigh 397 grams (plus 40 grams for a hood – sold separately). We have a lot of Joe’s other ultralight gear (packs, tents, raincoat etc) and have found them very good, so we may just try one of these, (stock market permitting)! I can see (particularly) that I can get Della’s pack weight down substantially with one of these, a 1000 fill power down jacket (now even available in ‘waterproof’ down) and one of Joe’s ‘new’ cuben raincoats @ 120 grams - altogether more than 800 grams – nearly three days’ food for her!

17/12/2016: Klymit Insulated Static V Lite Sleeping Pad: This pad is available on Massdrop (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/klymit-insulated-static-v-lite?referer=EJ89BQ) for US$62.99 (so about A$100 delivered) just now. It has a very good R rating and is 23” wide! Just what you need to keep those elbows warm! I do not need it to be so long as this but can probably cut approx 6” (15 cm) off it and reseal it with a hot iron (so bringing its weight down to 509 grams. Della would only need 5’ (150 cm) of it, so hers would weigh 463 grams!) This is heavier than my beloved Thermarest Neoair Women’s but it is wider, has a slightly higher R rating (.7) and looks to be made of a tougher material, so worth a try. ‘Lite has an R-value of 4.4 and weighs just 19.6 ounces (556 grams) . The body-mapped V shape and dynamic side rails reduce air movement and hug your body as you sleep, while the Klymalite synthetic insulation offers reliable thermal performance for all seasons—from summer backpacking to winter ski tours. Made from tear- and abrasion-resistant 30d polyester, this pad inflates easily in 10 to 15 breaths through the twist-pull valve, and when you’re done, packs down to 5 by 8 inches in the included stuff sack.’

PS: I recently received a Klymit X Ultra Light Pillow (Weight 53 grams http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-ultralight-pillow/). I am most impressed with it. Though a few grams heavier than my Exped pillow, it appears to be tougher. You can sit on it (it has a screw down valve instead of a plug) , so it makes an excellent comfortable trail seat. The configuration allows for a number of sleeping strategies but the 'X' in the middle will be ideal for back sleepers. I slept on it last night and found it superbly comfortable.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/exped-ultralight-pillow/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/more-about-diy-pfds/

Specs

Sleeping Pad

Fabric: 30d polyester with antimicrobial laminate
Color: Orange
Insulation: Klymalite synthetic fibers
R-value: 4.4
Inflation: 10 – 15 breaths
Dimensions, inflated: 72 x 23 x 2.5 in (183 x 59 x 7 cm)
Dimensions, packed: 5 x 8 in (13 x 20 cm)
Weight, pad: 19.6 oz (556 g)
Weight, stuff sack: 0.5 oz (13 g)

Included

Stuff sack
Patch kit
Klymit’s lifetime warranty

Klymit Insulated Static V Lite Sleeping Pad

26/09/2016: Sleeping Pad Reinvented: Big Agnes Q-Core SLX: Big Agnes has been redesigning some of its great pads. For example, their Big Agnes Q-Core SLX Petite Pad: 15 oz (427 grams) and rated to 15F (-9.5C ie R = 4.5) and 4.25” (10.5cm) thick! Reputed to be superbly comfortable and dramatically robust. The square ends also make the Q-Core an excellent hammock pad, particularly if you chose one of the wider models. RRT US$139.95 https://gearjunkie.com/big-agnes-q-core-slx-sleeping-pad ‘Offset I-beams, ‘micro’ air-pressure adjustment, and aviation-grade TPU lamination… sleeping pads can be deceptively high-tech. But what does it all mean?

big-agnes-1

Stability = Comfort It’s all about the I-beams… on the contours of the sleep surface…making the pad surface more even would increase the comfort of the pad…the offset quilted pattern replaces standard parallel I-beam construction, preventing you from sliding on the pad...the outermost I-beams on both sides are slightly larger, which creates a cradle that holds you near the center of the pad.

‘Ultimate Durability’…this pad is 25 percent more durable than its Q-Core SL predecessor. We’ve improved materials and construction with new double rip-stop and aviation grade TPU lamination technology…‘Superlight,’ Micro Adjustment Total weight for this pad falls between 15-22 ounces, (ie from 427 grams) depending on the model size (66-78 inches long, and 20- or 25-inch widths).

Its micro air adjustment’ is a tiny ball that sits in the center of the inflate valve. You can press it to allow a little air to escape, reducing the pad’s stiffness. It works just like a presta valve on a bike tire.’ https://www.bigagnes.com/Products/Detail/Pad/qcoreslx

big-agnes-2

We have owned their Insulated Air Core pads for many years. When we bought them they were the only pads which had anywhere near that thickness (3.25”) and R rating 4.5 (ie good down to 15F or -10C) - and cheap. They have proved incredibly durable and comfortable pads. For example their Insulated Air Core starts off at US$84 for a full-length pad and is under 600 grams, yet over 3.25” thick. We have two, their regular 6’ pad and their Petite Mummy 5’ pad (not currently available) which is around 500 grams and actually long enough for each of us (I am 5’7”, Della 5'). Most folks will really not need a pad longer than 66” (1.675m). It doesn’t matter if your feet overhang. I am a side sleeper anyway, so they don’t. Your feet won’t touch the ground so your sleeping bag will keep them warm as it is not compressed by your weight.

16/10/2016: Adding Down to a Sleeping Bag: I have a Montbell Super Spiral Down Hugger #3 (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/montbell/) which will take me comfortably just below freezing (-1C) but on my upcoming Everest Base Camp and Three Passes hike it is likely to get down to maybe -14C (at Gorek Shep) so I need a little more warmth. I will be adding approximately 3 ounces of 900 fill power down to the bag. I also have a Montbell Superior Down vest, coat and trousers which I can wear (plus a down balaclava and down socks!) so I will be cosy enough.

Spot would like to come too, as you can see.

If you turn the bag inside out you can see where the baffles have been closed. It is a relatively easy task to push all the existing down to the bottoms of the baffle tubes, carefully rip the stitching which closes the baffles, then push handfuls of extra down into the tubes until you are satisfied they are full enough, then sew them up again. You can buy 3 ounces (90 grams) of 900 fill power down for US$39.95 here: http://thru-hiker.com/materials/insulation.php or 800 fill power dry down here: http://www.tiergear.com.au/11/online-shop/duck-down-insulation-425g-15oz for A$30.80 This should drop the (comfort) temperature rating of your bag by approx 7C degrees.

Some additional useful instructions here: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-replace-feathers-in-a-down-sleeping-bag See videos here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRMJUZFTnHM & here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCJp2C4EFjU

15/12/2014: Della’s new Xmas sleeping bag has arrived. I used to be such an advocate of Montbell’s Ultralight Superstretch Down Hugger #3, a minus 1C bag - mine (recently) washed weighs 738 grams in its compression bag on my scales; still a GREAT bag. Della’s new Zpacks Medium, Regular, -7C weighs 499 grams in its compression sack – and it is 6C warmer - as well as being 240 grams lighter! Astonishing: http://www.zpacks.com/quilts/sleepingbag.shtml

06/01/2014: Exped ultralight pillow (@45 grams http://www.moontrail.com/exped-airpillow-ul-m.php). Received one of these for Xmas and tried it out last night. VERY comfortable. I have been seeking a new hiking pillow since Graham Medical stopped making their dual chamber ‘Flexair’ pillow. This could well be IT. Unlike Bonnie Prince Charlie who famously used a rock for a pillow (and was taunted as a sissy for needing one - in the snow during the raising of the Highlands), I NEED a comfortable pillow. This one allows you to sleep either on your back or your side, and is lower on one side (so supporting your neck and preventing nasty ‘cricks’). I recommend this product, but I would also like to try Thermarest’s new offering in the same category before I decide which is best. (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/pillows-and-bedding/neoair-pillow/product @ 55 grams!)

15/04/2016: UL Pillows: For many years I used the Graham Medical Small @ .6 0z (17 grams). This was a great pillow when it had dual chambers. After I could no longer buy the dual version (though the single is still the lightest pillow available) I started looking for a replacement and finally settled on the Exped UL Medium @ 1.6 oz (46 grams) which gets me a great night’s sleep (coupled with the Thermarest’s Neoair Xlite Women’s sleeping pad – which I also couple with a Big Agnes Cyclone Chair for a comfy seat in the wilderness: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/cyclone-chair/ ). Here is a comparison of what’s available: https://backpackinglight.com/ultralight-inflatable-pillow-gear-guide-jordan/ I would certainly be prepared to try Neoair’s Siza S (might be warmer on a cold night – 1.9 oz or 54 grams) or Big Sky’s Dreamsleeper Deluxe @ 1.4 oz (40 grams). One thing I like most about Exped’s is it is asymmetric so that you can choose from a number of different configurations.

See:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-air-beam-inflatable-pack-frame-update/

28/11/2014: Cleaning Down Bags: Thanks to my friend Brett for his advice about washing/treating (down) sleeping bags. I have now used Nikwax’s Down Wash & Down Proof products (sent from England in 1 litre containers via eBay - cheaper than 300ml avail locally: 150ml of each needed per sleeping bag) on my ‘worst’ Montbell Ultralight Super Stretch Down Hugger #3 bag. During the drying cycle I stopped every few minutes after some drying had occurred to separate out the clumps of down. Gradually I teased them out until I had achieved pretty much the loft of a new bag (if not better). I think next time I will try six tennis balls in the drier (they come in packs of three). They really do the job! I am really pleased with the result. I had substantially ruined this bag by having it saturated during a flood (twice) and having to sleep in it in any case. Then leaving it neglected for a couple of years. I will now try the products out on a bag which is mainly just dirty, and has not been allowed to re-loft enough.

3. PAD: I just LOVE this camping mat: the Thermarest xLite Women’s @ 340 grams at R-3.9 is quite long enough for someone of my height (approx 5’8” – your feet don’t need to be on the mat as they won’t touch the ground – anyway I tend to sleep on my side and curl up a bit) and is exquisitely comfortable - & warm. For sitting around camp we pair it with the Big Agnes Cyclone Chair (already mentioned) @ 170 grams: http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/mattresses/fast-and-light/womens-neoair-xlite/product & https://www.bigagnes.com/Products/Detail/Accessory/CycloneSLChairKit A comfy chair in the wilderness is REAL luxury! The other mats in Thermarest’s Neoair range are great too. You can go as light as 230 grams with their Small xLite if you don’t mind a mat which is only 119cm long. This is enough though, if you have the ‘Sitlight’ or ‘Airbeam’ backpack pad which will give you an extra 30-50cm length depending on which way you lay it out. I really like Big Agnes’ pads which are made of MUCH tougher material (and may be more comfortable for you as the tubes run lengthways instead of sideways) http://www.moontrail.com/bigagnes-insulatedaircorepads-78-mummy.php The 150 cm ‘petite’ @ 499 grams is long enough for me (as mentioned, your feet don’t touch the ground so don’t get cold) - it is the compression of the insulation material under you in your sleeping bag that makes you cold ) – and has an R rating of 4.1, which means you will be comfortable at around -10C or less.

NB: ‘SIDEDNESS’: The ‘face’ side of things is the one with the label/name on. This is always the ‘up’ side. If you use (eg) a Big Agnes pad such as the above upside-down, it will not work and you will FREEZE, so BE WARNED.

07/03/2017: Side Insulation: Gossamer Gear’s Sitlight Pads are just great for this if you cut them in half lengthwise. They can be still used in your pack’s pad sleeve but when it comes time to make your bed, either on the ground or in your hammock, these little fellows will keep your elbows and shoulders toasty warm.

You lay them egg-crate side down to get maximum insulation. The egg-carton shape makes them effectively 2 cm or nearly an inch of foam, and all those little hills and hollows makes them ‘stick’ to your groundsheet or hammock so they don’t move around.

There are three sizes available now. Mine don’t seem to be any of those. Mine are 9 ¾ x 18 ¾ ( 25 x 48 cm) and weigh 34.5 grams. This is a pretty small weight penalty for the comfort they bring – and they still do double duty as a pack frame and a trail seat! Mine are also used as my dog’s mattresses, but you pretty much need to have a JR(as you should) if this is going to work for you.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/womens-are-great-in-bed/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/does-spot-like-to-hunt-deer/

05/03/2017: Womens Are Great in Bed: You have probably noticed before how much I have extolled the virtues of Thermarest’s wonderful sleeping pads. I particularly adore this one (the Noeair XLite Womens) as it as light as a feather (340 grams), ‘fits’ me perfectly at 20” x 66” (51 x 168 cm) and is superbly comfortable (moreso I think than my own bed) at 2.5” thick (6.3 cm) and warm enough to sleep on a block of ice (I have) with an R-rating of 3.9! https://www.thermarest.com/mattresses/womens-neoair-xlite

You will probably have glimpsed this little piece of yellow in many of my hiking photos, often folded up into a chair, eg here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-last-of-the-mountain-men/

I am about 5’8” so my heels just hang over the edge, and the rest of my body fits its mummy shape just about perfectly – which is what you want to make an inflatable pad super-comfy. I also think the horizontal tubes have an edge comfort wise over longitudinal ones but this may well be a subjective thing.

The first point is the most important one anyway: If you have surplus mat at the ends, sides or corners your weight will drive the air there and you will sink further into the mat. This means that the mat has to be inflated more to support your weight from sinking to the ground (usually your buttocks or hips) at the heaviest point.

To me a tightly inflated mat is less comfortable than one that is less so. I prefer a softer bed. I realise this may not be so for everyone, just most people, but if you are like me you will want to chose a mummy shaped pad and cut it to just 2” shorter than your actual height (as I explain how to do here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/modifyingshortening-hiking-mats/) so that it is both exquisitely comfortable and the minimum weight!

From Thermarest’s page:

‘Product Details

The women’s NeoAir XLite mattress delivers more warmth and comfort per ounce than any other three-season air mattress available. Cold sleepers will appreciate our Women’s version, featuring an added layer of our reflective ThermaCapture™ technology for added warmth. New softer fabrics bring better next-to-skin comfort and boost in durability with no added weight. For the discerning alpinist, thru-hiker or backcountry minimalist who’s counting every ounce, there is simply no better choice to assure the kind of rest you need to get done what you’ve got planned for tomorrow. Stuff sack and repair kit included.

Ultralight: Advanced fabrics and a tapered design make this the lightest 3-season backpacking air mattresses available, with no peer in its warmth-to-weight ratio.

Warm: Multiple ThermaCapture™ layers trap extra radiant heat for cold sleepers, without the bulk, weight or durability issues of down and synthetic fills.

Comfortable: 2.5” (6 cm)-thickness, soft-touch fabrics and baffled Triangular Core Matrix™ structure provide unrivaled stability and support.

Ultra-Packable: Low-bulk materials make the XLite mattress the most compact NeoAir mattress ever – as packable as a water bottle.’

PS: Repairs: Though they are quite tough you will inevitably manage to puncture your pad. Mine was punctured within a day of my having bought it by a certain puppy (you will have met Spot if you have been here before) grabbing it in his needle teeth and dragging it backwards out the dog door onto the front lawn where he engaged in a full-blown mock battle with it until I intervened. I have found that nothing beats cuben tape (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/cuben-tape/) for patching holes in them, The cure is instantaneous, efficacious and has not had to be repeated (Spot is now four years old). This tape is also excellent for a wide range of other repairs (raincoats, tents etc) and should always be carried!

PPS: Thermarest also have a chair which will do this but I own the Big Agnes Cyclone Chair ( I think slightly lighter) which has served me as furniture for many years in many wild places: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/cyclone-chair/

PPPS: Another feature of inflatable mats is that you can get yourself and your pack (dry) across swollen rivers relatively safely with them by using them as a kick board. I have had to do this numerous times. Usually it is winter, so it’s not much fun, but if you need to cross...I usually take all my clothes and my shoes off first and put them inside my pack liner.

PPPPS:The RRP for this pad is US$159.95 if you buy it from the States and use (eg) Shipito (https://www.shipito.com/en/?id_affiliate=5249&countrycode=AU) to get it to Oz (Recommended).

27/11/2016: Klymit Inertia O Zone Ultralight Exclusive Sleeping Pad and Pillow combined: An interesting idea: fits inside your sleeping bag for extra warmth. R = 1.3, from US$51.99 11.9 oz (339 grams): http://www.klymit.com/inertia-ozone.html & now on Massdrop; https://www.massdrop.com/buy/klymit-inertia-o-zone-ultralight?referer=EJ89BQ

Klymit Inertia O Zone Ultralight Exclusive

9/09/2016: Modifying/Shortening Hiking Mats: Sometimes hiking mats just come in the wrong length or width. For example, I would like a wider pad but they only come very much longer. Is it possible to cut a bit off them and reseal them? Yes it is. Here are some links on how to do just that:

cut xlite 2

How to Cut and Reseal a Neoair - On The Trail - Episode #1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kumSl-cbLlY

Shorten Neoair: https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/73403/#625778

How to shorten a full length self-inflatable mattress: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoRTAeKcA0w

Resizing a Therm-a-rest Evolite Sleeping Pad: https://hikelighter.com/2016/08/16/resizing-a-therm-a-rest-evolite-sleeping-pad/

Resizing the Massdrop x Klymit Static V Ultralight Sleeping Pad: https://hikelighter.com/2016/08/09/resizing-the-massdrop-x-klymit-static-v-ultralight-sleeping-pad/

Below are two mats I would consider cutting down to produce a mat which has more width comfort:

Thermarest XLite Large: 25” (63 cm) by 77” (196cm) by 16 oz (460 grams) R 3.2 If I cut this down to the same dimensions as my XLite Womens it would weigh 394 grams. Only 54 grams for that much increase in comfort!

Thermarest Neo Air All Seasons Large 25” (63 cm) by 77” (196cm) by 25 oz (710 grams) R 4.9 2 If I cut this down to the same dimensions as my XLite Womens it would weigh 608 grams.

I could cut an unnecessary 6” off Della’s XLite Women’s saving her 10% of its weight (or 34 grams)!

You might also want to trim a mat to make it more mummy shaped – and to save weight.

Other modifications: Erin McKittrick and her husband Hig during their ‘ A Long Trek Home’ (http://www.groundtruthtrekking.org/Book/) cut down their Thermarest self inflators by cutting a hole (roughly) in the middle of them through which they could push their head. They then passed a string/belt around themselves and the mattress creating a makeshift life jacket!

03/03/2016: Thermarest Speedvalve: Thermarest has a new range of easy to inflate mats. These guys go up (and down) so easily it will be hard to resist the temptation to replace our ‘old’ mats. Fortunately for us they have not (yet) extended the new valve’s availability to our favourite mat the Neoair Xlite Women’s! (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/new-hiking-mat-425g/) The regular 20” x 72” Neoair with this valve would be hard to resist though for hammock camping where its ‘square’ profile helps keep your shoulders warm. You have to spend your –har-earned’ on something though – you can’t take it with you! And what better to spend your money on than anything which facilitates your next great trip to the backwoods! See: http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/mattresses/fast-and-light/neoair-xlite-max-sv/product I posted about this idea back in August 2014. Thermarest have finally taken the idea up: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/another-way-to-inflate-your-air-pad/ See Also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/highlights-of-the-outdoor-retailer-summer-2015-trade-show/

27/04/2016: Ultralight Chair/Grounsheet: I found this image on Pinterest

but could not find who to recognise/praise for it (my apologies to the clever inventer). I have been going to make one of these

(see: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tarp-bathtub-groundsheet/) out of Tyvek (will be soon for my new tent). I think it will be a simple matter to add some ‘pockets’ as illustrated in the first picture so that a one person groundsheet can do double duty as an ultralight chair with the addition of a couple of hiking poles (as shown) or a couple of broken off sticks. Maybe a couple of webbing straps need to be added. I will experiment. As I have said before: ‘Watch this space…’

ROPE: Sam Gamgee was right, ‘What about a bit of rope? You'll want it, if you haven't got it,’ he opined, and you would be foolish if you didn’t agree. Some cordage is an essential on the trail: You need thread and needle for those torn trousers or wounds. I always have dental floss (a self-threading needle fits in the container with it – and it is sterile). It has enabled numerous essential repairs over the years, even though I am certainly not the seamstress Della is. For heavier cordage ALWAYS choose (UV resistant) dyneema or spectra cord which are stronger and lighter than any other kind. You will want a lighter length of this (1-1.5mm diameter) for replacing guys, clotheslines, hanging bags out of reach of predators, snares, or making a spare pair of SHOES (See Below) etc. On our trip across the bottom of Tasmania I had 80-100 metres of 2-3mm Spectra cord (nearly 100 grams!) which became a life-saver on the penultimate day:

12Pcs-Assorted-Self-Threading-Thread-Sewing-Needles-Home-Household-Tools SPIRAL EYE EASY THREADING NEEDLE Logo

http://www.spiraleyeneedles.com/Compare.html

Finally at the end of the sixth day we came to a stream (the South Cape Rivulet – hah! What a cheating name!) This stream is tidal and the tide was high, as was the stream! It was chest deep already and swept by episodic nearly metre high waves. There was a neat sign enjoining people to study it carefully for at least 15 minutes before attempting to cross. There was nowhere to camp on the departing side and only (!) six days back (to an unmanned aerodrome!) if we could not (and ONE onwards to a bus stop at Cockle Creek if we could!) No helicopter would come to rescue us (I called). So out from the pack came the trusty Spectra. I tied one end to a tree (there was none on the far side) and with Della and Kerri playing out rope I was able to get across without a pack between waves. Then I was able to make a large enough bight to stand in and tension it whilst Della and Kerri crossed holding onto it. Even then Della was nearly swept away. With Della and Kerri standing in the bight I was able to cross back over a number of times to retrieve the packs AND THE ROPE! You never KNOW when you’ll need it! It was a COLD camp that night, as we were all utterly soaked and chilled by the frigid water, believe me. ROPE, DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT!

14/12/2014: To go with that bit of rope, these tiny luminous line locks (.7 gram ea) are just great http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=95 as is ultra light 1.25 high viz spectra cord (eg avail http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/spectra_cord.shtml ) which (together) makes for a perfect guy line for a hiking tent/tarp. They REALLY do glow in the dark – you can see them right through your tent!

POLES: These folks have nice (light 113 grams) three-piece carbon fibre poles which telescope to 50cm thus fitting in your pack when not in use. I managed to lose one of my two-piece poles pushing through thick bush on the Mt Darling Track last week (21/11/2014). I was carrying it on the outside of my pack in case my crook knee gave out on me (in which case I could take down my rifle and swap it for a pair of poles). Being longer than the pack, a fork in some regrowth must have fished it out without my noticing, so that now I need to replace it. (Note to self: TIE them in!) I looked carefully on the way back, but did not sight it (probably whipped away off the line of track, I guess): http://www.rutalocura.com/trekking_poles3.html Gossamer Gear also have excellent carbon fibre trekking poles. Poles save about 40% of your effort and will prevent many falls.

27/11/2014: While you’re looking at ‘ruta locura’s’ web-site (Sp = crazy journey; I like!) you might notice their Tenkara trout fly rod conversion for a hiking pole. Now that’s a good idea if you’re a keen fly fisher (as you ought be!): http://www.rutalocura.com/Tenkara.html

07/09/2014: Maybe you (figure you) don’t need a walking stick (or two) but when you work out you do, (or that a couple will reduce the effort of hiking by 50%+ and reduce the chances of falls by @100%), maybe you will be ready to try the LT4s. They only weigh @ 119 grams (about HALF a conventional pole) each, yet are strong enough to support MY weight (and that is SOME recommendation!) You can usually use them as the tent poles for one or other lightweight tent too. Two poles can be added together to make quite a tent pole, eg we used the upper section and TWO lower sections (you Have to pop out the little cork circle in the handle to do this) to form a 6’+ centre pole for our Mountain Laurel Designs ‘Supermid’ (sleeps 4!) pyramid tent on our walk across Tasmania. I woud not buy the ones with straps as I would not USE straps. I usually add a loop of very lightweight spectra and a micro cord lock to each pole for those occasions when you want to hang them on your wrist eg to take a photo, or so you don’t drop them when crossing a walkwire. It is better NOT to walk with the string (or a strap) attached to your wrist: that is how Della dislocated her shoulder on the Dusky Track (thus ending our hike – apart from a rather miserable struggle to a relatively nearby spot where a helicopter could land!) As we crossed a giant boulder she slipped, and slid down its face. She would only have sustained (maybe) a couple of bruises to her bottom, but she had the loops around her wrist, and as she slid down, one of the poles caught in a tree root and hanged her by it - thus dislocating her shoulder. Sometimes too it is good to be able to let go of the poles and be able to grab a handhold such as a tree etc: http://gossamergear.com/trekking/trekking/lt4-trekking-poles-all.html

INSECTS can RUIN a camping trip. You need a Repellent which WORKS. There has been a move by the touchy-feely crowd to bombard us with ‘natural’ ones which will see you eaten alive. Be warned. The product MUST have DEET (not so much it melts your raincoat, but lots). And if you are going somewhere which you know is seriously infested (eg with murderous giant sandflies – like the West Coast and Fiordland NZ) then it should also contain ANOTHER repellent as well, eg DIMP. I usually use ULTRAGUARD which has 30% of each! If you are allergic to either of these products, STAY HOME! Even so, you DO get bitten occasionally (and those NZ sandflies can turn me into something which resembles the surface of the moon - only monstrously ITCHY!) Unexpectedly unprotected spots need to be considered. The part of your hair. Most caps, for example, have a gap where they adjust at the back. Some hiking shirts are (thoughtfully?) provided with (non insect screened) vents. Some materials are too open-woven so that those nasty probosci can punch right through them. I choose close woven lightweight nylon in those circumstances, even though you end up smelling like a horse! The very best thing when you DO get bitten and are itching to DEATH is an antihistamine cream (BANNED in Australia – what a weird nanny-state we live in!) called ANTISTAN. You can buy it from the Ta Anau Pharmacy. I’m sure they would be only too happy to send you some if you rang. If you are going to sleep in a tent, make sure that it has the FINEST nano no-see-um bug mesh which excludes all the nasties (including leeches). I might even consider sleeping in such a tent if I was camping in the Canadian Arctic (eg canoeing the Kazan River) as the blackflies are simply murderous there. ‘Warmies’ also seem to be unaware that the chiefest ‘problem’ facing Arctic explorers (save cold and polies) were MOZZIES AND (in the past) malaria! I generally only take a 16 gram Sea to Summit head net to ward off biting insects. Unless you are going to retreat permanently to a bug-sprayed tent, you’re going to be out and about with the little guys most times. At least a head net gives you all-over cover at nights when the rest of you is in your sleeping bag.

6/09/2016: Mozzie Nets: Lots of folks eschew tarps for tents because they fear they will be invaded by vast swarms of biting and stinging beasties of various ilks, but mostly I find the weight and (usually) the inconvenience/unreliability of zippers is not worth the relatively rare times that need arises.

I admit there are some spots where the hordes of sandflies or mozzies can be quite daunting (and March flies here in Oz are sometimes quite dreadful) but most things can’t sting or bite through well chosen clothing (or your sleeping bag), the critters arrive in great numbers every time you leave or enter your shelter anyway, and all you needed to carry really was a head net (which can also deter flies from bothering you and works while you are walking) and such a head net need only weigh 11 grams (!) as in this iteration from Sea to Summit: http://www.seatosummit.com.au/products/bug-protection/nano-mosquito-headnets/?ref=outdoor so I misdoubt the desirability of lugging around up to a kilogram of netting inside which you will always be killing sandflies, mozzies etc anyway.

That being said, I am working on Nano Noseeum mesh doors for my http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-deer-hunters-tent/ which I will close without zippers and which (at .7 oz/yd2) will weigh only about an ounce or 30 grams (the mesh is available here: http://www.tiergear.com.au/11/online-shop/no-see-um-mesh) for such rare occasions as I find myself camped out in sandfly heaven, eg at the Grant Burn on the South Coast track Fiordland NZ: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/south-coast-track-fiordland-nz-waitutu-to-westies/) You can slowly eliminate the sandflies/mozzies which invade your (netted) tent by clapping your hands together to kill them as they circle below your suspended lantern of a night (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/mini-super-torch-a-weeks-light-weighs-50-grams/) – or you can carry a mini atomiser bottle of insect spray.

FIRST AID:

28/12/2016: Ultralight Toothpaste: ‘Tactical skills weblog Imminent Threat Solutions shares a simple method for making toothpaste dots by squeezing small, chocolate-chip sized "dots" of toothpaste onto aluminum foil, allowing those dots to harden for a week or so, and then transferring to a small waterproof bag. To use, all you need to do is pop a toothpaste dot in your mouth, chew for a few seconds, and start brushing.’ http://lifehacker.com/5979236/toothpaste-dots-keep-down-toiletry-bulk-when-carrying-light & http://gossamergear.com/wp/toothpaste-dots

06/03/2015: MATHOMS IN YOUR PACK: We are all always trying to lighten our load, searching for those unnecessary items which would best be left at home, but it would be unwise to jeopardise safety for lightness. A case in point: for over twenty years I carried an elastic bandage and a cotton sling in my pack, the first in case of snakebite sprains etc (I also carried Panadine Forte and Diclofenec anti-inflammatories for the same reason), the second for a broken arm from a fall, etc. Now, after all that time it might have been sensible to reconsider the weight they were adding. Then, in 2011 I took Della to Supper Cove, Dusky Sound, Fiordland NZ. She had not been there better than an hour when she slipped on a rock and dislocated her shoulder, so that I needed all these ‘mathoms’ at once! PS: the ‘Helimed’ evacuation (called ‘Medivac’ in NZ - and FREE!) was a spectacular ride – just a pity Della didn’t enjoy it much despite all the morphine they were giving her! NB: Satellite phones DO come in handy!

07/03/2015: ELASTIC BANDAGES: There is now a veterinary elastic bandage which should (perhaps) replace the elastic bandage you have carried in your pack the last twenty years without using it. It is VERY MUCH lighter, and sticks to itself, so you don’t need a safety pin (though this might come in handy for some other use, and I always carry a couple in my ‘repair’ kit) Pretty, isn’t it? http://www.globalmedivet.com.au/order-online.html?page=shop.product_details&category_id=1&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=17

07/04/2015: VETWRAP Review: A 2 metre (x100mm) roll of this colourful elastic bandaging (available at horse supplies etc) is 15 grams lighter then the more traditional elastic bandage, and since it sticks to itself stays in place better. It is good for an emergency bandage, but it is almost impossible to RE-USE it, so if you are likely to need it for several days (likely) it is probably better to stick with the old one. Shown here is my old elastic bandage which has been in (& out) of my pack for thirty years (still with my firstborn’s nappy pin I see!) which still after many uses rolls up in ten seconds. I have been trying to re-roll the pink one for ten minutes, and this is as far as I got!

ULTRALIGHT PERSONAL HYGIENE: Some of these issues are a bit of a ‘No No’, but someone needs to bring them up. Personally I am particularly disgusted by folks who scatter personal hygiene products (and worse!) around in the bush. Please: bury, burn or carry out!

BATHING: Another Sea to Summit product: an ultrasil camp shower which weighs about 120 grams (without its silly stuff sack), and gives a lovely shower with two billies of boiling water plus two of cold – obviously add the cold FIRST! http://www.seatosummit.com.au/products/leave-no-trace/pocket-shower/ Della usually favours a sponge bath from the billy – a strategy which weighs nearly nothing – and gives a quite satisfactory result. Of course a quick dip in an icy stream whilst very bracing will still get you quite adequately clean. Weight: 0 gram! For a neat way to hang your shower see this: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/bush-shower-mechanical-advantage/ this would also work well if you are hanging heavy game overnight & etc. We find these lightload towels great for drying off, as washable handkerchiefs, as sweat bands, etc: http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/towel.shtml Most hiking towels do not dry and cannot be squeezed out except the ones which feel a little like cardboard when dry.

Bear Hang Using A Simple Pulley:

TOILET rolls should be BANNED. I wonder really that our emerald agitators have not hit on this particular remedy for the woes of our troubled forests. Why, when we are hiking we manage to get by with (at most) 2-3 Kleenex tissues a day (Fold & fold & fold), which saves a lot on pack weight – and the handy purse-sized dispensers prevent the tissues from becoming saturated and unusable in the rain (which would happen to a toilet roll). But, think of the vast forests to be saved if everyone was FORCED to do this EVERY day. Why, we should never resile from the ability to use force on the citizenry – to make them better, of course!

I always carry a sachet of Kleenex anti-bacterial wipes too, though I have now reprised their weight http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dettol-hand-sanitising-wipes/ Just one of these will give a satisfactory APC (armpits & crutch) clean-up, eg after you have been to the toilet or at the end of the trail day (if you aren’t going to bathe). Cleanliness in such areas may prevent some nasty (eg fungal) infections which will seriously slow you down.

I can usually manage to dig a hole with the heel of my boot, but this tool may be useful if the ground is hard (or for collecting fishing bait, etc): Ultralight titanium ‘potty’ trowels (15 grams): http://www.suluk46.com/products%20%20-%20P11%20Titanium%20Trowel.html or http://gossamergear.com/deuce-of-spades.html at 17 grams. If you ever need to dig for water one of these might be a lifesaver. A sturdy metal tool would be preferable to a plastic pone which would not stand up to heavy use at need.

Suluk Titanium Trowel

CHAFING: Prevent chafing by applying some moisturizer to the area each day before the day’s hike. Likewise, heel balm all over the feet as an aid to preventing blisters or feet drying out and cracking. You can use a variety of strategies to prepare your feet in the couple of weeks leading up to a hike. Special attention to getting those toenails really short, & softening up the skin. Some recommend hardening the feet for a couple of weeks with alcohol. I have not tried this – seems like the wrong end to be putting the alcohol!

Microdripper bottles: http://gossamergear.com/mini-dropper-bottles.html These can be useful for storing small quantities (eg of wilderness wash, iodine, deodorant, insect repellent, etc – TIP: if you take the ‘roller’ off a roll-on, you will find it is a liquid which can be decanted into one of these). Drinking straws http://www.theultralighthiker.com/single-use-antibiotic-packs/ can also be made into useful containers.

For protection from insects and treatment of their bites, see: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/insects-can-ruin-a-camping-trip/ Leeches can be a problem too. Their bites can also be treated effectively with the antihistamine cream. For prevention of leech bites, make sure you tuck your trousers into your socks and your shirt into your trousers and wear long sleeves shirts in leech country. And keep an eye out for them. Some salt or a lighted cigarette will make them drop off. Spraying a surface spray such as Baygon is good for keeping them ‘at bay’ too. You might want to think about this for your whole tent footprint in heavily infested areas. Unlike ticks which usually brush off trees, leeches usually climb up from the ground, but can brush onto you in fern gullies, etc. A smaller quantity of surface spray for this purpose could be decanted into a small plastic atomiser bottle such as is used for perfume etc to save weight.

24/05/2016: Bathtime on the Trail: The One Gram Platypus Shower: An ordinary water bottle cap will fit any Platypus bottle. You can make holes with a large needle (doll needle pictured – much safer). With nine holes as pictured one litre lasts 6 ½ minutes. I usually carry one 2 litre Platypus and a one litre one. Della carries the same. Similarly each has a pot of approx one litre capacity.

A litre of boiling water added to a litre of cold water makes a pretty good shower temperature. 4 litres of water each gets us pretty clean in the backcountry where there is plenty of wood to provide the heat, eg with this: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-egg-ring-ultralight-wood-burner-stove/

A couple of grommets in the base of the Platypus bottle (both on one side) will allow you to hang it up from a carabiner on a piece of string. A loop tied in the string a little higher up will allow you to catch the neck of the bottle to turn the shower off. I am working on converting one of those water bottle on/off bite valves which some water bottles come with to a shower for the same purpose. Looking for a cap which can be glued on which is just the right size.

Like this (7 grams):

There are a variety of purchasable models of this device (some very dear) and all of which weigh more than a gram! Make your own and convert your Platypus bottles for hanging (2 minutes max)

Also see:

http://www.amazon.com/Platypus-7594-Shower-Kit/dp/B000J2H8ZE

http://www.instructables.com/id/Water-bottle-sprinkler-cap/

http://www.theseedbomblaboratory.com/bottle-top-sprinklers.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/WATERING-CAP-ATTACH-SOFT-DRINK-BOTTLE-PLANT-MINI-SPRINKLER-SHOWER-PLASTIC-x6-PC-/161933729804?hash=item25b400a00c:g:znkAAOSwK7FWhMc2 http://www.bottleshower.com/about/

http://www.treehugger.com/gadgets/pocket-sized-gadget-repurposes-plastic-water-bottles-portable-shower-or-wash-station.html

http://spatap.com/ Video with times (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzV7ZyYXFvA)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-Handheld-Camping-Shower/?ALLSTEPS

http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Camping-Shower-Simple/dp/B00DVXXIQQ

http://vandogtraveller.com/the-bottle-cap-camping-shower-by-matt/

17/01/2017: End the Misery of Insect Bites: After a trip to NZ’s Fiordland all my exposed skin used to resemble a very angry surface of the moon for weeks afterwards, but one application of this wonderful cream on any troublesome bite makes it go away completely (also works on leech bites). For some bizarre reason antihistamine cream to treat insect bites is banned in Australia, but you can buy it online eg here: http://www.pharmacydirect.co.nz/anthisan-cream-25g.html & here: https://www.amazon.com/Anthisan-Bite-Sting-Cream-20G/dp/B0017TL8P4

01/09/2015: Tick removal: Spot’s First Tick: This is the very first tick either myself or one of my animals has acquired in Southern Victoria – even though I hunted with hounds here for over thirty years and have owned as many as a dozen and a half dogs at a time. I used to see tiny ticks infecting the ears of Bluetongue lizards probably causing the deafness which results in their suffering from so many road casualties. It is possible to tediously remove them – an operation they lizards do not appreciate – but I have long since given up on it: in no time they find some more anyway.

Spot acquired this particular tick West of Yinnar yesterday when he was trying out his handsome new raincoat (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-jack-russell-rain-coat-13-grams/) . I can report I have discovered yet another reason for preferring methylated spirits as a hiking fuel. After dousing the parasite liberally with it (from a teaspoon), and waiting about a minute, it was easy to pull the dead tick out complete with its head (as you can see) leaving nothing to cause an infection or irritation. I used a fine pair of tweezers gripping it just above its head. Easier than pulling a tooth! I have no idea whether it is a paralysis tick (probably not), but you do have to be careful to check your pets for the blighters as they can cause death!

In the US ticks have been implicated in the spread of Lyme Disease (a real nasty previously mostly an occupational hazard to rat-catchers!), so apart from the fact that they will create a very nasty itchy spot, and maybe an infection, it is important to get them out (particularly of yourself) as quickly and safely as possible. The meths is also a good antiseptic.

06/11/2015: How to treat a Gunshot Wound: I found this article (and its forerunner) very helpful. It certainly had me downloading a First Aid App for one thing (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cube.gdpc.aus) and reassessing my First Aid kit…PLEASE NOTE that this article contains graphic and disturbing images: http://guncarrier.com/how-to-treat-a-gunshot-wound-2/ Such an injury (which can cause catastrophic blood loss) need not be caused by weapons, whether accidentally discharged or not. One can imagine similar horrid events being precipitated by car accidents, chainsaws, agricultural and DIY machinery, etc. Being able to stabilise the catastrophic blood loss, deal with ruptured organs, and most important call for assistance is so important. This is when a satellite phone, epirb, UHF radio or external antennae for your mobile is so important, but two-way communication will more likely save a life as compared the passive epirb: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/mobile-phone-antennae/

14/11/2015: Emergency, Dial: 112. This is good advice. You will connect through whatever carrier is available, even if your own is not. You will also bump others users off the cell as emergency numbers have priority. So you will be much more likely to get through. You will NOT get through if there is no coverage though. For this you need a satellite phone, a UHF radio or an epirb. http://www.theultralighthiker.com/emergency-cb-radios/ See Snopes: ‘Calling 112 on your cell phone will (in some parts of the world, primarily Europe) connect you to local emergency services, even if you are outside your provider's service area (i.e., even if you are not authorized to relay signals through the cell tower that handles your call), and many cell phones allow the user to place 112 calls even if the phone lacks a SIM card or its keypad is locked. However, the 112 number does not have (as is sometimes claimed) special properties that enable callers to use it in areas where all cellular signals are blocked (or otherwise unavailable).’ http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/cellphones.asp

You may be able to extend battery life as an an option available on some brands of cell phone (such as Nokia) for Half Rate Codec, which provides about 30% more talk time on a battery charge at the expense of lower sound quality. This option is enabled by pressing the sequence *#4720#. A far better plan to conserve battery life is to put your phone on Flight Mode, or switch it off! It will last for MANY days.

26/07/2015: Making drinking straws into mini containers: Now that is a genius idea: http://briangreen.net/2011/07/diy-single-use-antibiotic-packs.html ‘Place the straw over the opening of the ointment tube and carefully squeeze in a small amount of the ointment that is approximately one quarter of an inch in length. You’ll notice that transparent straws work best for this. Use you fingers to squeeze the end of the straw so that it pushes the ointment further up inside the plastic straw. This will provide a clean area for sealing the end of the straw without having the ointment ooze out while you are holding it with your pliers.

Melting the ends.

Hold the end of the straw with your needle-nose pliers so that a small amount of the straw is protruding. This will be used to melt and seal the end of the straw. Take your Bic lighter and carefully melt the end of the straw so that it forms a seal. I like to quickly pinch the melted end with my pliers to ensure a good seal. Turn the straw around and find the point where the ointment went up to inside the straw. Pinch just past that with your needle-nose pliers and cut off the excess straw with a pair of scissors making sure to leave a small amount of the straw protruding for sealing with your lighter just as you did in the first step.’

Easy Open Hack for DIY Single Use Antibiotic Packs: ‘I experimented on several small anti biotic pouches that I had recently made, by cutting tiny ‘V’ notches with the tip of a sharp knife into one of the sealed ends. The idea being that these tiny notches would be all that was needed to start the tear if two corners were torn in opposite directions.’ http://briangreen.net/2013/10/easy-open-hack-diy-single-use-antibiotic-packs.html

Easy Open Hack for DIY Single Use Antibiotic Packs

Making the 'Vee'.

‘How To Make Seasoning Straws A quick and simple way to bring seasoning with you while backpacking or camping without having to bring way more than you will ever need! I bring these with me when I go backpacking, they allow me to season my food without all the extra weight. Directions: Use the lighter and melt one end on each of the straws. Fit the funnel on one of the straws and carefully pour in the seasoning of your choice. Once they are all filled, cut the straws to size and melt the ends’ https://www.pinterest.com/pin/131097039128017714/

Seasoning Straws.

13/09/2015: Securing Hearing Aids: Having nearly lost one of my Siemens Aquaris Hearing Aids during my recent walk (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/spots-hunting-adventures-mystery-river-3/) I have had some feedback from a reader who has managed over time to lose three of them, all covered by insurance at the time, but he has now been refused insurance, as the bastards do! Given that most Oz audiologists want @A$7000ea for them; these folks http://www.hearingsavers.com.au/ A$4200 and these folk http://www.thehearingcompany.com/ US$1595 (= A$2248!) you wouldn’t want to lose/destroy too many of them, which is why I opted for this model – the world’s only WATERPROOF hearing aid, as I had previously had lots of issues with my older aids getting wet/dying etc. You CAN get a ‘Sports Clip’ for the Aquaris (http://precisehearing.com/hearing-aid-accessories/siemens-aquaris-optional-sports-clip) which has a covered bendable wire which additionally secures the aid below the ear. Also Siemens have a ‘Concha Lock’ for RIC hearing aids (comes standard with Aquaris) which do help a bit. My reader has decided to have his ears pierced and to connect the aids to studs in his ears - which is going a bit far to me (do not like cicatrices anyway!), but reasonable in view of his insurance situation. I notice the ‘Life Tubes’ on the Aquaris, the clear bit that go down into your ear, has a hole drilled in it to which you could attach a split ring or cord. A cord could attach the two together around the back of your head (so that you would lose both at once!) You could continue the cord around your forehead and tighten it with a micro cord lock. You could also slip the arms of your glasses through the split rings then link the arms with one of those neoprene or etc glasses ‘keepers’ so that you don’t lose both. I will be pursuing one/other of these measures to ensure I don’t lose my aids hiking/canoeing etc as I am not, (contrary to rumour) made of money!

Sports Clip: The plastic bit clips over the BTE aid and the wire bends underneath the ear.

HIKING FOOD: We are always working on this: one thing is pretty certain: those dehydrated meals sold in hiking shops & etc are almost universally inedible. We did a survey of them, cooking them up and sampling them at lunchtime at home, rating them: edible, palatable, inedible, disgusting etc. Then we fed them to our dogs. It was incredible how many were considered inedible by dogs – which will heartily eat their own vomit and even your faeces if they can get at it! Not recommended – same goes for the hiking food.

Dehydrated supermarket food is much preferable. Of course it is a good idea to work out a variety of this (and not to eat it very often except when hiking – so that anticipation doesn’t spoil it for you). In the wilderness you have no other choice (save what you can catch or shoot etc - more about that later), AND you are almost always universally hungry at mealtimes, so there is less of a problem on the day than you might think.

‘Mix and match’ is a good axiom: it is surprising what an appetising repast you can have from combining a variety of foods which you would not normally put together. A young American friend, Steve Hutcheson concocted a memorable banquet in this way on the final night of our Dusky walk in 2012 in the Upper Spey Hut by basically combining all the ingredients all of us had left-over.

RECIPES: You can often combine Cup-a-Soup with two minute noodles to make a reasonable lunch. Examples are Continental Asian Lakhsa, Sweet Potato & Bacon, and Mexican flavours. Continental Dutch Curry and Rice is VERY tasty.

Similarly, some of the powdered sauce mixes eg Continental Tuna Mornay actually makes a reasonable mornay if (perhaps a third of a pack) is combined with a sachet of tuna and some Surprise peas and a pack of two minute noodles. You can do the same sort of thing with dehydrated mince, especially your own!

Some dishes can be supplemented, eg with some salami – we find the Hans Twiggies good for this as they require no refrigeration: it guarantees this on the packet, unlike other brands – food poisoning is dangerous, especially up the bush, and your own risk!) We have found eg Continental Four Cheeses meals good for this, and Ainsley Harriot’s, Lentil Dahl. Try out some of these dehydrated meals from the supermarket at home: the pastas, the rices, the lentils, the couscous, etc and experiment with some favourite additives. Write down what you like and use it as the basis of your hiking days’ menu list. Naturally what you eat in the backcountry will depend (just as it does at home) on your own (dreadful) personal taste.

One clear thing to remember is: CALORIES PER GRAM. As you have to bring all the food with you (except what you catch/collect – as above) the more calories per gram, the less weight you have to lug in. READ THE PACKET INFO! Some things are wonderful as far as this is concerned, eg nuts. Some are 7 to 1!

Sometimes we have Arnott’s 9 Grains Vita Wheat biscuits and peanut butter for lunch. Instant porridge and muesli with powdered milk make excellent easy breakfasts. You can now buy powdered eggs in every Coles supermarket (in the cake section). These reconstitute (with a little powdered milk) into as good a scrambled egg as you are used to at home. Goes well with Continental Dehydrated Potatoes (best with onion!)

I am quite fond of ‘Coconut Rice” which we make by combining a little coconut powder with the rice when you are cooking it. You can boil the rice, then dry it so that it reconstitutes with less fuel out in the bush (more about this below). You can boil some water up at breakfast time, pop it into the snap-lock bag with the rice and have it for lunch eg combined with a sachet of flavoured tuna. I can still taste the excellent meal which we had at ‘Little Deadman’s Bay’ on our Tassie walk, for example – and what a lovely spot it was, too, though no dead men, thank goodness, especially me – though I WAS hungry enough!

We usually have snacks such as nuts, fruit leather, muesli bars, jerky, dried fruit mixes etc. A few ‘boiled’ lollies – such as Werthers are nice. I always take Bacardi 151 rum (75% alcohol) in a Platypus bottle as it is the lightest way to carry booze (and who would BE without it?) I usually mix about 20ml of rum to a cup of water. Della prefers her own liqueur ‘poison’. Some people add some powdered milk eg to Kahlua. Some chewing gum is excellent as ‘dehydrated water’! Most important; plan your three daily meals before you leave home and STICK TO THE PLAN. Don’t eat all your favourites FIRST!

02/08/2016: Porridge: Is undoubtedly the most compact energy dense and sustaining breakfast to eat on the trail. Unfortunately the ‘instant’ versions of this staple have been so adulterated and laden with diabetes promoting nasties as to be almost downright dangerous. Here is Della’s ‘traditional’ porridge recipe. It is astonishing that it needs only one level teaspoon of brown sugar (equivalent to ½ teaspoon of white sugar) to make it quite sweet enough. The ‘serving size here (quite enough for us though less than 2/3 of the recommended ‘serving size) weighs 43 grams (and would require approx 12 grams of metho to cook. Rinse it down with a cup of hot coffee and you are quite ready for the trail.

Della's Porridge:

¼ cup of Uncle Toby’s ‘Traditional’ Oats (26 grams = 640kj)

½ cup of full cream milk = 1/9 cup of milk powder (17 grams = 307kj)

½ cup of water

Bring to the boil then simmer stirring frequently.

Add one pinch of salt half way through cooking (<.5 gram). This is important. The oats will be ‘tough’ if you add it too soon, the sugar will not be ‘sweet’ enough if you add it too late.

When cooked stir in one level teaspoon of loose brown sugar. (4 grams= 41kj)

Total 47 grams = 988kj = 236 calories.

An important advantage of porridge is how compact it is. When you are contemplating a long journey (say 10+ days on the Dusky track Fiordland NZ (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-adventures-1/) for example all that food has to fit into your pack somewhere – so compactness is an important ultralight feature.

Tip: You need to work out a system of measures using the things which are in your cookset. You will no doubt have a small marked container for measuring metho, a spoon, a cup and a pot. If these don't already have measures on them you should mark them on in some way (eg with an engraver) or mark them on a light strip of plastic you can insert into them showing eg how far up the pot one cup of water comes. You should remember how many spoons full make up a cup 7etc so that you know how many to add when making up your porridge for example.

03/07/2016: Wintulichs Beer Sticks: On the trail animal protein is a must, but without refrigeration you may have concerns about food safety. One of the chief virtues of salamis and hard cheeses such as cheddars is also their energy density at @ 7 calories per gram – and lots of fat! There are some salamis which are labelled as needing no refrigeration. Some are rather large eg 200 grams for a single meal http://www.theultralighthiker.com/lunch-on-the-trail/ (though we have found them quite safe open for a few days at equable temperatures), some rather small such as our old standby Hans Twiggies @ 15 grams ea. At 50 grams per serve and in a number of delicious flavours these Wintulichs Biersticks may fit the bill and fill your stomach. They are available in the liquor departments of many supermarkets and also come more economically in a 1kg pack if you can find a stockist: http://wintulichs.com/product/beer-sticks-1kg/

29/04/2016: Lunch on the Trail: Arnotts VitaWeat Biscuits 9 Grains are one of our standbys. Each biscuit is approx 8 grams and 100 kj or 25 calories (3 per gram) so that about 6 biscuits (150 calories) plus some nutritious topping makes an adequate lunch. We store them in lightweight plastic freezer portion containers to prevent breakage.

I have already mentioned peanut butter as an excellent topping (See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/peanut-butter-toast-soldiers/) Another favourite topping is D’Orsogna Traditional Romano Italian Salami (which does not require refrigeration until opening (and we find keeps fine for the three days it takes us to eat in @ 20C temperatures – ditto the following cheese) and Mainland Noble Cheddar or Colby. The Noble is a delicious new low fat cheddar which you might find hard to source.

Both salami and cheddar were invented (way back in the Middle Ages) for just such a purpose (ie long life compact food) and it is hard to beat them. Both the salami and the cheese are over 400 kj or 100 calories per 25 gram serve (ie over 4 calories per gram). Della and I find that a 200 gram pack of cheese plus a 200 gram salami last us with 36 biscuits for three days’ lunches. Per day each of us is eating 67 grams of salami/cheese plus 6 biscuits 270 + 150 = 420 calories, quite enough for a nutritious lunch on the trail!

Another favourite lunch standby is Della’s Coconut Rice plus a sachet of tuna. (See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dellas-coconut-rice-hiking-food/) or if we want something hot one of the CupaSoup meals is great (For example: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-meals-continental-hearty-italian-minestrone/

21/11/2015: He Hiked With a Falafel in His Hand: I already mentioned cooking falafel in the leftover fat from Chinese Sausages http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-food-protein/ (the first for dinner, the second for breakfast), but you can carry a pack of falafel mix and approx 60 ml of eg olive oil in a small plastic bottle. A fry up will make about a dozen falafels from a 200 mg packet. . You could form the balls and place them on a tissue so that you would have your billy free to put them in as they came off the pan – or you could just place them in your mouth. You can manage to cook them with only your hiking spoon. You have to add 200ml of water to the dry mix at the start and leave it to stand for ten minutes. I have found you can just eat the prepared mix cold and uncooked too, but it is better cooked. The 200 grams of falafel mix is 1580 kj and the 60 ml of oil about 300 kj, making1880 kj or over 450 calories – quite an acceptable meal for a carry weight of 260 grams – and for an interesting change.

Pictured Brasslite Turbo 1D Stove (47 grams) http://brasslite.com/ , Toaks Titanium 1100 ml pot lid – (156 grams pot+lid) https://www.traildesigns.com/

PS: For more like posts try a search (top right corner) for eg ‘stove’ as above, ‘alcohol’ ‘food’, etc…

04/07/2014: Hiking food again: Ainsley Harriott ‘Creamy Vegetable Spelt’: THIS was quite delicious (so long as you have eg a Brasslite stove to simmer it on for @ 20 minutes). 150 GRAMS = 568 calories (3.78:1). If you feel you might need more protein, a sachet of tuna, 100 gram can of ham etc might be stirred in at the end:

03/03/2014: Hiking food, an occasional series: if you are an omnivore like me, you probably have at least occasional lusts for venal delights (hiking food, folks!) The trick to satisfying these is to do so without spoilage/food poisoning…’Hans Twiggies’ are a staple with us (eg chopped & added to ‘Four Cheeses’ pasta) as they require no refrigeration. We have become concerned about the salamis issue since the Tibaldi & etc episodes. Sachets of tuna are good also, as is jerky.

We have recently ‘discovered’ ‘Chinese Sausage’ which is vacuum packed and needs no refrigeration until it is opened. It is also fatty enough you can fry it without oil which is a handy trick in the wilderness. Adding it to various dehydrated meals makes them much tastier. I recommend them with Ainsley Harriot’s Lentil Dahl with a side of Continental Mash (with onions) and Surprise Peas, for example. PS Continental ‘Tuna Mornay’ dehydrated packet sauce goes well with a sachet of tuna, two minute noodles & Surprise Peas’.

If you keep the fat from the sausages in your frypan overnight you can fry fallafals (made from dried mix and water) for breakfaast! There you are: THREE fine hiking dinners, enough for a four day trip. Enjoy!

28/10/2013: Hiking food: Continental Sensations Cup a Soup: ‘Sweet Potato with Bacon & Cream’ IS delicious. Pop one in YOUR day-pack!

11/09/2013: Hiking Food: we are always adding to our repertoire: on our last trip Della’s dehydrated savoury mince added to Continental Dehydrated Potato Mash reconstituted to a very acceptable ‘Shepherd’s Pie’ for example. Lately we have been trying out several dehydrated lentil meals. Coles have several under the name, ‘Celebrate Health’ (eg Indian Marsala Lentils - quite nice). The BEST so far is Ainsley Harriott’s ‘Lentil Dahl’ which is SPECTACULARLY GOOD. We are eating this (& farting) at home indecently often. Highly recommended!

08/03/2015: HIKING FOOD: Two new recommendations: Breakfast/Trail: Carmen’s Cranberry Apple & Nut Crunchy Clusters (needs no milk) & Snack: Carmen’s Classic Fruit & Nut Muesli Bar. Both these have the ‘Low GI’ tick meaning (both) that they are suitable for folks with diabetes (or helping PREVENT it) and that they will keep you going for a LONG time without feeling hungry.

Sometime (on the trail) you MIGHT need a quick energy boost (where maybe eg a square of chocolate is appropriate – I never do), but mostly you want food which will keep on delivering energy all day long. In this context, you might consider wholemeal angel hair pasta instead of the regular two minute noodles, or a mixture perhaps of basmati and brown rice (pre-cooked and dried of course to save fuel when reconstituting) or lentils etc. Obviously fresh fruit and vegetables are an impossibility on the trail, (except for wild food if you know what is safe) so maybe it is doubly important then to consider the effect on your pancreas of what you put in your mouth. Diabetes is NOT a disease; it is a DIET!

23/03/2015: MORE HIKING FOOD: Low GI and cooks in seven minutes, and VERY tasty: http://www.barilla.com/content/product/whole-grain-spaghetti

26/12/2014: Will have to try this: http://buynongmoseeds.com/quick-and-simple-fresh-peasant-bread/

Peasant Bread Is The Best and Easiest Bread You Will Ever Make

29/03/2015: YOGHURT: This from a CDT thru-hiker: Yoghurt can be made on the trail in a zip lock or a more durable plastic jar. It’s very simple to make:

‘Bring a small amount of store-bought yogurt to get it started. Mix powdered milk, water and the store-bought yogurt starter in the container. Shake it up.
Keep fairly warm either by sleeping with it at night or by keeping it somewhere dark yet warmed by body heat or the sun. Inside your shirt works well or at the top of your pack in a place that would get warmed in the sun. It makes yogurt even if the temperature of the liquid only reaches 20-25 degrees or so.
If you sleep with it remove it from your sleeping bag a few hours before eating so it will be cold for breakfast.
Eat but save a little for starter for the next batch. Repeat.’

I tried Easiyo from Safeway and it worked well: no starter yoghurt required. On the trail I would probably bring water to boil (to sterilize it) then let it cool somewhat before putting it and the Easiyo in the snap-lock bag.

29/03/2015: Della Jones: I don't think I need yoghurt this much on the trail....some people are nuts...

29/03/2015: I admit I am; and that I can probably get by with just powdered milk and instant porridge or (Carmen's) muesli for breakfast, with occasionally scrambled powdered eggs or falafel fried in the fat from last night's Chinese sausages (or a fresh-caught fish) & etc. However, I am thinking about stoveless hiking - more about that later - and trail-made yoghurt might fit in with that. I DO like a hot meal at the end of the day usually though.

03/04/2015: Many great hiking food recipes: http://www.trailcooking.com/

30/04/2015: HIKING FOOD/CUSTOMS GESTAPO: We had a bad trip with one of these guys at Queenstown airport. Every other time I have been in NZ, they accepted I knew what I was doing, had cleaned my gear properly, had only proper hiking food (no dangerous, illegal imports etc), but this time we encountered a Pommie import who had not worked out that the colonies were long since independent. He went through all our stuff with a fine-toothed comb such that we nearly missed our hire car (they closed at 5:00 pm, and this guy delayed us for an HOUR!

Eventually he confiscated Della’s delicious home-dried Spag Bol and Cottage Pie (no ‘country of origin labelling and barcode! Even though I told him I was going to EAT it for goodness’ sake!) We will have to fix THAT up in future. Immediately we were free of the nazi (and had a car) we were forced to hie us around all the supermarkets to see what subs we could come up with for FOUR delicious dinners! It really takes the edge off your trip if you have to eat those awful ‘Backcountry Meals’ this Nazi must have had shares in. Mostly even our dogs won’t touch them!

I will be posting more about delicious meals which can be made from common supermarket items – with which in mind, NB that delicatessen salami (having been properly smoked/salted) is marked ‘keep in a cool dry place ie does not need REFRIGERATION (eg Tibaldi ‘Felino’ salami : http://www.tibaldi.com.au/products/salami-range/ . It should be included therefore (along with sachet tuna, Chinese sausage and Kraft cheese) as an addition to the ‘meat’ component of otherwise often bland dehydrated meals.

Hiking Food / Customs Gestapo

25/05/2015: HIKING FOOD: MCKENZIE QUICK COOK SOUPS (180 grams per packet) : Tried the first of these, Hearty Vegetable tonight. I expected it would need a bit of spicing up but it did not; it was excellent. HIGHLY Recommended.

Also discovered that you can thicken a soup (and add nutrition) by stirring in some Continental (Deb) Mashed Potato – about five teaspoonfuls to a cup. I made the soup (as per instructions) with 8 cups of water. Bring water to the boil, add ingredients and simmer 15 minutes. Whilst this would make a fine entree for several people, it would be too much liquid for one (or two) for too few calories (600/8). So I would (in the field for a main) add just four cups and thicken with mash. Two cups for each of us with some mash should come to more like 400 calories each, and half a litre of hot hearty soup each should be enough on a cool night.

Tonight I added some extra nutrition to the leftovers with tiny shell pasta, an 85 gram can of Heinz chicken meat finely shredded, and two cup serves of Continental Asian Laksa Cup-a-soup (see photo). It was delicious. There are two other flavours to try: Minestrone & Homestyle Country Chicken. Even if you aren’t a hiker, they would be useful additions to your pantry shelves.

12/07/2015: Hiking Food: Making (delicious use) of everyday supermarket dehydrated food instead of those awful backpacking meals: Continental Spring Vegetable Simmer Soup + 500 ml water (1/2 quantity) + I Tablespoon (approx) Surprise Garden Peas + 8 Teaspoons Continental Deb Instant Mashed Potato. Try it. After you have done so, start thinking about other dehydrated (eg Continental) products such as their Gravies and Sauces and their meal bases. Cheaper and much tastier.

23/07/2015: Hiking Food: Mckenzie’s Country Chicken Soup with Lemon & Black Pepper Tuna (which we had for tea tonight) is quite delicious. I added only HALF the water on the directions, making roughly one litre of soup - I have an 1100ml pot – a good quantity for two. You need to simmer for approx 15 minutes, after which I added two sachets of Safcol tuna (as above) stirred it in and waited fro the soup to come back to the boil. Done.

Next time I would add only ½ of the Mackenzie’s flavour sachet at the beginning, adding some more near the end if it needed more salt (it was a little saltier than we like with the whole sachet). You could (as usual) add some Surprise Peas and some Deb Mashed Potato to thicken if desired. The soup was quite delicious just as it was though, and would taste even better on a cold night in the backcountry sometime (soon!) 2456 kilojoules in the soup and 1056 in the tuna = 1756 each or roughly 440 calories. I usually have something like 30 grams of Mrs May’s Almond Crunch for an entrée (650 kJ), a cup of Jarrah Hot Choc Frothy Classic (45 kJ) and perhaps a Carman’s Muesli Bar for dessert (698 kJ); Total 3149kJ (787 calories) - plenty enough for a growing boy!

19/08/2015: Hiking Food: French Onion Soup Plus: Mixing dehydrated ingredients can make an interesting and nutritious meal. You SHOULD try this at home before heading out. Here is an example: McKenzie’s Superblend Fibre ‘Freekah, Lentils & Beans’ (350 grams) plus Continental French Onion Soup (49 grams) plus Continental Classic Tomato CupaSoup (24 grams) . These three ingredients weigh 423 grams and deliver 5873 kj (1468 calories = 3.5 calories per gram!) in a 1 litre billy (@ 15 minutes simmering) probably enough for FOUR people! I found it a little salty for my taste (at home – I might feel differently after a hard day on the trail). This could be adjusted by adding the tomato soup (where most of the salt is) to taste at the end.

18/08/2015: Dorsogna Mild Twiggy Sticks (Safeway & etc). These are very tasty and last exceptionally out of the fridge. I have had one sitting on the kitchen shelf now for a month without any outward sign of spoilage, though of course it has gone hard – but still tasty, and no doubt lighter. They work well for a snack eg with 9 Grains VitaWheat Biscuits and perhaps Babybel Cheese which also lasts well outside the fridge in its red wax wrap. Also cut into tiny pieces they bulk out the protein portion of cooked meals such as Ainsley Harriott’s Lentil Dahl or Continental Four Cheeses Pasta. At this energy density, they are well worth carrying anyway: 1341 Kj/100grams = @3.5 calories/gram.

23/01/2016: Hormel Real Bacon Pieces: This dehydrated food is quite delicious (if somewhat pricey at >$4 for 85 grams – dehydrated weight, but you have to figure it represents nearly half a kg of bacon!), but it keeps without any refrigeration and will add some zap to an otherwise fairly bland pasta meal for example (particularly if you add some Kraft Cheddar cheese as well – which also keeps without refrigeration indefinitely). It is not at all salty -unlike the Kraft cheese. Available Coles.

This would go well as an addition to Farm Pride’s excellent Powdered Eggs (available in the cake aisle in supermarkets). These reconstitute as scrambled eggs really well – the addition of a little powdered milk adds a nice touch. I would just stir some of this dehydrated bacon into the mix and serve with an accompaniment of Continental mash for a hearty breakfast, for example.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-yoghurt/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/peanut-butter-toast-soldiers/

Suggestion: Try a search for ‘food’ in the Search bar at the top right of the page. I have posted many ideas there over time.

02/02/2016: McKenzie’s Quick Cook Minestrone Soup: At first glance these excellent tasty mixtures might seem a bit too lean for backpacking, but I used half the recommended water, so a packet made up to one litre with water (so it would fit in my 1100 ml billy). I used the stock sachet and added a 50 gram sachet of tomato paste and approx half a container of the Hormel’s bacon pieces I wrote about the other day (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hormel-real-bacon-pieces/) These three ingredients made up into a very tasty soup (approx 500 mls each for two people) and containing 2392 kj (minestrone = 180 grams) + 178 kj (tomato = 50 grams) + 159 kj (bacon= 42.5 grams) = 2729 kj. Between two people this 653 calories (272.5 grams = 2.39 calories per gram ) provides each with 326 calories. Half was more than I or Della could eat – even though it was very pleasant. Another time I might leave out the McKenzie’s Stock Sachet (which comes in the packet – as I don’t like salt very much) and add maybe a ¼ teaspoonful of ‘Harissa’ eg Masterfoods ‘Middle Eastern Spice Blend’. Folks who don’t mind salt might add the McKenzie’s flavour sachet, and if they don’t want to carry a sachet of tomato paste (in case it leaks) might substitute a 24 gram (= 114 calories) sachet of Continental ‘Sensation’ CupaSoup ‘Vine Ripened Tomato’ instead. I’m sure folks can think of a few other ideas to mix and match this to make a tasty meal. I have already remarked that you can thicken a soup (I didn’t feel this one needed it) with Continental Mashed Potato: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-food-mckenzie-quick-cook-soups-180-grams-per-packet/

01/03/2016: Hiking Meals: Continental Hearty Italian Minestrone & Hearty Garden Vegetable CupaSoups Soups: I have long lamented the dreadful quality (and undeserved price) of pretty much all backpacking meals. That’s why I have largely concentrated on recommending good supermarket meals which fill the bill: well-priced, tasty and nutritious, good calories per gram ratios, quick, energy efficient and easy to prepare & etc. I previously noted this tasty combo: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-food-soup/ The nutritional info on the Minestrone (& etc) packets is very handy. The current Minestrone (75 grams = 147 calories) recommendation is as follows: add 3 large teaspoonfulls of Hormel Real Bacon Pieces (20 grams = 75 calories) and a slightly larger quantity of Continental Deb Instant Mashed Potato (great for thickening and adding nutrition – 20 grams = 15 calories). In total we have 110 grams and 237 calories and 2.15 calories per gram. One serve would be fine for breakfast/lunch; two would make a reasonable, tasty meal!

26/03/2016: Tasty Hiking Meals: Things you can just buy from the supermarket are just so much preferable to those expensive, unpalatable hiking meals. Here’s two we tried tonight in preparation for an upcoming trip: Continental Roast Chicken and Leek Risotto with Sirena Lemon & Black Pepper or Chilli Flavour Tuna Fillet. Della and I shared the 115 gram Risotto and each ate 100 grams of tuna. Along with a CupsSoup (below) it was enough for dinner for us. Tonight we had Continental Hearty Garden Vegetable CupaSoup with (per cup) @ 3 heaped teaspoons of Hormel Bacon Pieces http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hormel-real-bacon-pieces/ and 3-4 teaspoons full of Continetal Deb Mashed Potato plus @ ½ teaspoonful of Clive of India Authentic Curry powder (plus some black pepper for me). The curry powder made this soup nearly as delicious as the Minestrone I described here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-meals-continental-hearty-italian-minestrone/ Tuna Fillet 170 calories ea, Risotto 420 calories/2 = 210 ea, Soup 157 calories ea plus Bacon & Potato 90 calories = 247 Total 627 calories for 232.5 grams (2.7 calories/gram) See also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/?s=food

25/03/2016: Backcountry Meat: Simmenthal Jelly With Sliced Beef 140 grams net (can 12 g) 413 kj (99 calories). Quite delicious. Some folks are apparently ‘addicted’ to this stuff: it takes not unlike a very good quality corned beef, but not salty. Add to meals or eat on Vita Wheat biscuits for lunch. Available most (Italian) delicatessens. (Pictured larger can). I have tried the canned hams (Plumrose is quite good, but salty). Many other canned meats are not very appetising or too salty too (including canned chicken). Add this to your other (safe) long-life meats such as Hans Striker twiggies, and Hormel Real Bacon Pieces (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hormel-real-bacon-pieces/) , sachet (or canned tuna, etc.) for some much needed protein on the trail. See also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/?s=food

23/08/2015: Della's Coconut Rice. (Hiking Food): People so often ask me this question, ‘But what do you eat…? I hope you will forgive me if I post about it fairly often and repeat myself…We have a home dehydrator, so this gives us a few more options, but you CAN dehydrate things in your home oven (if you are careful). Dehydrating cooked rice which then rehydrates simply by adding boiling water is a case in point - I am really surprised that no-one sells ‘instant’ (dehydrated) rice; maybe that’s a business idea for you.

Here is our recipe for ‘Coconut Rice’ which works well as a lunch mixed eg with a Sweet Chilli Tuna or as an accompaniment to the evening meal. (We add the boiling water at breakfast to a snap lock bag and eat it cold for lunch). As you can see from the picture Della vacuum seals the rice (you need to double bag it eg with a freezer bag to prevent it from piercing the outer bag) and adds her own label for when we take these meals eg to NZ. NB: we need to add country of origin barcodes in future; see: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-food-customs-gestapo/

DELLA’S COCONUT RICE

Ingredients:

Method:

· Rinse the rice in cold water

· Combine stock, coconut milk and salt in a large saucepan and heat over a medium heat until near boiling

· Reduce heat to low

· Add rice and stir for one minute

· Cover pan and simmer over a low heat, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes or until the rice is almost tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed

· Remove pan from the heat and let the rice stand, covered, for 10 minutes or until it is tender and all the liquid has been absorbed

· Lightly fluff rice with a fork.

Great Tucker: Della's Coconut Rice.

02/09/2015: Food Dehydration: As mentioned before we have a food dehydrator, so Della often dries some of her superb meals for our later delectation on the trail (her Shepherd’s Pie, for example). I know some of you are not so lucky (as to have either a dehydrator or a Della!). You will just have to do without the latter, and if you can’t afford a dehydrator, you can, very carefully - perhaps with the oven slightly open, and on the lowest setting, and checking and stirring very regularly, dry food on a dish/tray in the oven. See: Google. I have just dried some Campbell’s Spaghetti sauce and Edgell’s Aussie Super Kernels. The 410 gram Sauce came down to 85.5 grams, the 420 grams corn to 50! Rice (see: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dellas-coconut-rice-hiking-food/) is about 3.5 calories per gram Probably a bit more with the coconut milk added; the Edgell’s dried corn works out at 3.4 calories per gram and the Campbell’s Spaghetti sauce at 5.32 calories per gram; Maggi’s two minute noodles: 4.6 calories per gram. I figure 20-30 grams of Cambell’s sauce to a pack of noodles would be an adequate meal for me for a meal (ie just under 500 calories). These are all good numbers. With a bit of forethought you can bring your hiking diet to 4+ calories per gram, maybe even 5, meaning in our case that we need less than <500 grams of food per day each. You may need more (or need to lose less weight than me, at least!)

1 can corn left, 2 cans sauce right.

WILD FOOD: In the Victorian bush (and in NZ, Tasmania etc), just about every valley has tree ferns. The heart of the tree fern is several kilos of starch which becomes edible (if not particularly palatable) when roasted – it MUST be roasted. Under practically every log and stone there are beetle larvae (or grubs). You can roast these too. Grubs and worms are always very nutritious. You only need about 100 grams (half a cup full) to supply all your protein and most of your daily fat requirements – so there is no need even to go hungry. There are heaps of other edible plants, but you need to be able to identify them as some will cause diarrhoea (or worse – particularly fungi!) If you don’t know whether plants or fruit are edible it is probably best not to eat them as getting sick is more debilitating than being hungry. Greens are probably the safest plants rather than fruits.

There are many books offering identification of the edible plants of your district – it might be a good idea to buy one of these and study up on it before your next trip. Burke and Wills DIED at Coopers Creek surrounding by a cornucopia of food which McDowell Stuart grew fat on when he spent several weeks there looking for them. Every waterhole for example was full of cumbungi whose roots are a starchy tuber very similar to potatoes. The water teemed with freshwater crustacea and fish, and the birdlife was astonishing – AND they had guns. Yet these ignorant men died of starvation and exposure. Don’t join them anytime soon!

Incidentally, there are pretty much NO animals whose flesh is poisonous (including mammals, reptiles and birds) especially if cooked to kill any parasites which might (unlikely) be present. Similarly there are practically no scaly fish (which LOOK like fish) which aren’t perfectly edible. Pretty much all crustaceans are edible too. BUT, you have to catch them! Surprising how many things can be caught with a forky stick: crustacea, lizards etc. Wallabies are SO stupid you can walk right up to them (pretending to be a wallaby), catch them by the tail then dash their heads against a tree – BUT you have to move very slowly and patiently – I HAVE demonstrated this for people (letting the wallaby go free as I wasn’t hungry and have eaten just about enough wallabies anyway!)

Fish can often be stunned by slamming a large stick down on the water near them. There are usually water insects under stones in streams. Many other creatures can be knocked down with a thrown stone: water dragons, possums, koalas, small birds…or clobbered with a stick: lizards, echidnas etc. You might think you need to develop the skills involved in making and throwing a spear, but you do not need to in order to survive and eat well. The womenfolk of hunter-gatherer tribes bring in the most food, mostly with just their bare hands and a stick or two picked up along the way.

WATER: 10/03/2015: The WISDOM OF AGE: until recently I did not know that (either Gideon was left-handed or) he did not have the arthritis I have which has (by now) so twisted some of the fingers particularly on my right hand that I find it difficult to hold water in my cupped hand to drink (so you can see I would not have been given ‘The Jericho Demolition Job’!) Annoyingly I am forever spilling moisturiser, heel balm etc on the floor as it slips between my fingers, then I have the arduous job (with my stiff back) of getting WAY down there to clean it up! They should make such cosmetics more appetising to dogs so they would clean it up, and I would have nothing to complain about! Having lived 65 years (over 50% more than the average human being who has ever lived), I have little to complain about, really. Many young hikers I have met would not know the Gideon story (cultural education is getting very sloppy!) and would be afraid to drink from a stream anyway.

There is this excellent lightweight water filter (if you worry about such things or go paces where lots of folks have shit in the streams): https://sawyer.com/products/sawyer-mini-filter/ which weighs under 60 grams (probably worthwhile to have in your pack). If you are walking ‘The Wilderness Coast’ (19 days along the beaches of East Gippsland) or a month or so along the Tasmanian West Coast South of Strachan, you might consider this Katadyn desalinator http://www.katadyn.com/usen/katadyn-products/products/katadynshopconnect/katadyn-desalinators-manual-survivors/katadyn-survivor-06/ though it weighs 1130 grams (OK split between two people – and preferable to dying of thirst!

Sawyer MINI Water Filter

10/10/2016: Collecting Water: This is a great tip from JJMathes: ‘Have you ever needed to fill your water container only to find there wasn’t enough clearance for you to get the opening of your container under the flow? When water levels are low the flow doesn’t always shoot out far enough to catch the water, it rolls around the contour of the rock making it nearly impossible to fill a bottle or bladder. Altering the flow is an easy fix by using the windscreen from your cook kit to form a spout; or anything flat that won’t absorb water will work, even a broad leaf.’ http://gossamergear.com/wp/ever-have-trouble-collecting-water

collect water

Sometimes you find water oozing down a vertical rock face. If there is a tiny crack in it you can drive a sharpened twig or matchstick in the crack to bring the water out to your drink bottle as in the photo above.

18/05/2015: SURVIVAL STILL: NB: On the Kon Tiki they drank a ‘shandy’ (for two months) of 40% seawater 60% fresh water with NO ill effects. As soon as you realise there is a shortage of water, add your own urine to your fresh water supply to extend it. Boil and distil it if you wish. Those who opt for stoveless hiking may one day thirst to death. If you have a lighter, a billy and any garment, (but a hiking towel may work best) you can use the second (simplest) method pictured to DISTIL pure water from even the most brackish (or alkaline). As you can shandy sea water, you only need to distil 600 mls to have a litre to drink. Two litres per day will keep you alive indefinitely if you avoid excessive heat, and breathe outwards only through your NOSE (the Fremen were right!) You only need enough fuel to boil away 1200 mls of water per day. Everyone will have seen the first method below, but it may be slow work for scant reward. You COULD use your cuben fibre tent if you didn’t happen to have any plastic sheeting handy. Your raincoat would also work, and wouldn’t be needed for its normal purpose in the circumstance.

BOILING will get you a drink much faster I’m sure. If you have a length of hose (eg from a drinking tube), you could direct the steam from Method 4 into the solar still, Method 1. NB: You do not need water for a still to work: there is always water in SOIL, no matter how dry (dig down a bit and it WILL be damper). Heating it in a billy will drive it out, as above. A titanium billy is a better survival tool for this purpose than a tin one (the solder can melt) or an aluminium one (which will burn away more readily).

Method 1

Method 2

Method 3

Method 4

16/12/2015: Water: Hiking Desalinator or Survival Still @10 grams that may save your life: I am just working on this idea. Here I have epoxied a copper flange to an old can of powdered milk and attached 1 metre of old silicone tube. I was catching the water in a Vargo 450 ml (cool lips) titanium mug. I was just cooling the steam with wetted down tea towels. I collected nearly 400 mls in an hour. I need to improve the steam condensation. I will purchase a Platypus hydration tube (as that is what I figure folks will carry (which is a much lighter weight 102 cm PU tubing) which will hopefully shed heat better.

I will also make up a trough so I can cool nearly all its length with water. I expect I will more than double its output. If you needed to do this in the wild (presumably by the sea) you could make a trough in the sand, line it with your raincoat and fill it with water. You could also bury the collection cup in wet sand and perhaps cover it with something else to prevent steam escaping. Doubling output would produce more than 2 litres in 3 hours – enough for a day of low activity – so certainly enough to save your life.

I am imagining adding the flange to your existing billy lid or placing it in an extension ring which sits between billy and lid. Such an extension ring, if I can figure out how to make it adjustable (and fit) would weigh only 15 grams or so and fit with your other cooking things in your billy or pot.

PS: I just made the flange from a piece of copper water pipe using a plumbing flaring tool. You could cut the flared end from a car's brake line obtained from an auto wreckers. I used a small piece of 'Dynasteel Epoxy Putty' [250C] to attach it.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dehydrated-water/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/water-filter/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/rivers-in-the-sky-never-die-of-thirst/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/survival-still/

09/06/2015: Rivers in the Sky: NEVER die of thirst: Surprisingly perhaps that’s where the world’s largest rivers are. Extracting this humidity from the atmosphere is not necessarily that difficult. In the Atacama Desert in South America there are whole towns which garner their water supply from dew/fog screens which harvest humidity http://www.windows2universe.org/vocals/water_clouds.html . Pliny the Elder wrote of desert island (Hiero in the Canaries) where the natives were able to catch all their water requirements from dew falling on a ‘fountain tree’ http://chestofbooks.com/reference/A-Library-Of-Wonders-And-Curiosities/Fountain-Trees.html#.VXUS2Ub0ncs . There ARE commercial possibilities. Greenhouses in Oman are watered entirely by condensation systems (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmospheric_water_generator) . This chap has a wonderful system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=cXe-4XE2QVI which won the Dyson Award.

Keeping yourself alive by harvesting the water from dew therefore, ought not be too hard. Anywhere there is vegetation (at least) and any appreciable humidity (even in deserts) dew forms all night. It can be mopped up with a garment and the results squeezed into a suitable container and later boiled to kill any bacteria accidentally included. It is possible to harvest many litres per night (!) Attaching the garment to a handle, or dragging it with a string will make the work easier.

A man collecting drinking water after tiny droplets of fog condense in the net and run through pipes

10/06/2015: DEHYDRATED WATER: Short of water: Suck a Pebble. This was my dad’s advice when I was a youngster. I thought at the time it was just a trick to prevent a dry mouth; something like chewing gum, but it has a more important feature: it prevents you breathing out through your mouth, THUS enormously reducing respiration water loss. It ranks with travelling by night and resting by day as prime water conservation strategies. The Fremen of Frank Herbert’s ‘Dune’ were entire experts at this, - and at water harvesting and storage. Though it is fiction it is worth a read if only for what it can teach us about the importance of water. The famous Ancient Greek orator Demosthenes (384–322 BC), was also a pebble sucker: according to Plutarch he overcame an initial stammer by training himself to speak with pebbles in his mouth, so there might be more to be gained. Far too few folk speak CLEARLY nowadays.

Water Bottles: Platypus & Evernew bottles http://www.traildesigns.com/accessories/water-carriers Soft Drink bottles.

21/10/2015: Sawyer Water Filter: 2 gram back flush for Sawyer Squeeze Water Filter: I imagine this would work with the Sawyer Mini (40 grams) too, only a smaller hole would need to be drilled: http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=78861

Locked in place

4. ULTRALIGHT COOKING: I think one of these ‘Sierra Cups’ (hhttp://www.evernewamerica.com/EBY152.htm each) @ 60 grams (or these: http://www.evernewamerica.com/EBY265.htm @ 50 grams) or one of these http://www.traildesigns.com/cookware/vargo-450ml-travel-titanium-mug-eca355 @ 63 grams would be good for when you need to cook more than two things at once. I have the 900 ml pot set @ 125 grams (http://www.evernewamerica.com/ECA265.htm) & one of these 1100ml pots @ 156 grams which http://www.traildesigns.com/cookware/toaks-titanium-1100ml-pot-ckw1100 works well with the Bushbuddy Ultra (http://bushbuddy.ca/indexs.html ) woodgas stove @ 150 grams or the caldera system from trail designs which is even lighter, or the Evernew stoveset @ 52 grams (http://www.evernewamerica.com/EBY257.htm) . I am wondering whether I can fashion a ring of motorcycle tubing (or like eg http://www.traildesigns.com/accessories/beer-bands ) to prevent burning my lip on the Sierra cup. Snowpeak have a gadget named Hot Lips for this purpose, but I always take a 30 gram plastic cup as it’s nice to be having a drink while you’re eating or cooking. You don’t need it on the Vargo as it doesn’t (magically somehow) burn your lip! A titanium spork, cut-down pot scourer and mini (Bic) cigarette lighter completes the kitchen at less than the weight (<400 grams) most folks would have in their ultralight gas canister stove (inc EMPTY canister = 150 grams+) alone! PS: I usually carry a Minibulldesigns 7 gram side-jet alcohol stove (eg https://www.minibulldesign.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=195&idcategory= ) and 100ml meths for when I get lazy (and a few esbits for fire lighting). PS: I have made a ‘simmer’ ring for the Bushbuddy stove – and it really does turn it down. I have recently purchased one of this guy’s ‘Brasslite’ stoves (http://brasslite.com/stoves/OrderForms/turbo2DOrder.html) and though it weighs 45 grams it is so GREAT to be able to SIMMER with meths. There are so many other things you can cook . A titanium foil windscreen (available eg http://www.titaniumgoat.com/products.html) lowers fuel consumption dramatically if there is any wind at all. Update: the Vargo really doesn’t burn your lip, AND is big enough to cook a pack of two minute noodles with a cup-a-soup added. Proof tested by Matt!

9/09/2016: Bushbuddy Stove: The original wood burning double walled secondary combustion wood gasifier stove. We have owned the ‘Ultra’ (145 gram) model of this stove for many years and have used it innumerable times. Apart from some expected blackening it shows no sign of wear and still works perfectly. We use the stove on longer trips (to save fuel) and where open fires are prohibited such as some National Parks. As you can see from the picture the stove will not generate enough heat at the bottom to scorch the ground or ignite anything there. I was given the lighter Suluk alternative as a present, so I usually carry it now. Even in relatively treeless areas (or very wet areas) you can usually find enough dry twigs to light such as stove and boil the billy.

Bushbuddy photo IMG_0336.jpg

Of course my egg Ring stove http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-egg-ring-ultralight-wood-burner-stove/ is much lighter, but it will scorch the ground. I personally do not see this as a problem: over the years I have observed that there are many plants which have clearly evolved to grow after such small fires (not surprising when one considers the long prehistory of human habitation of the Australian continent. Indeed I have observed that there are plants which rapidly colonise an old campfire site which grown nowhere else!

The Bushbuddy was originally invented by Fritz Handel of http://bushbuddy.ca/indexs.html & now made by his apprentice Jeff Tinker (sic!) of: http://www.nomadicstovecompany.com/#!/our-story/ A Titanium version (86 grams) is manufactured by: http://www.suluk46.com/products%20%20-%20P14%20TDW%20Stove.html

‘About the BUSHBUDDY

Like the Bushbuddy Ultra, this stove was designed to provide the cooking needs of one or two people, but can also serve the needs of a family or small group if two stoves are carried.

It weighs just 5 1/2 oz, and makes a compact package 4 1/4" in diameter and 3 3/4" high when nested (the same size as the Bushbuddy Ultra), which will fit inside the Snow Peak Trek 900 titanium pot, and many other pots of similar or larger capacity. It's compact size and light weight make it ideally suited to the needs of the backpacker, cyclist, and other outdoor travelers. Because it burns wood, it is a very economical stove to use.

There is also no need to carry your fuel with you wherever wood is available (it does not need batteries), making it useful for long trips, or when traveling in remote areas of the world where liquid fuels may not be available. It is aircraft friendly too.

Under good conditions (protected from wind and rain and with a lid on the pot) the BUSHBUDDY can boil one quart of water in about 8-10 minutes. It is a very efficient stove, consuming only about 14 oz. of wood per hour at maximum heat, less at lower heat.

Because of its unique design which uses a double wall around the firebox to preheat secondary combustion air, you will find that you can burn wood as cleanly as a candle.

Just be sure to use dry wood only, and add it at regular intervals to
maintain an open flame.

The BUSHBUDDY is made of high quality 18% chrome 8% nickel stainless steel for many years of trouble free use. The grate is made of nichrome wire, as in the Bushbuddy Ultra, for the longest possible life.

THE BUSHBUDDY ULTRA NOW AVAILABLE

First custom made for Ryan Jordan of Backpackinglight magazine, for his Arctic 1000 trek in June of 2006, this stove features the same efficient combustion design as the regular Bushbuddy, but in a lighter weight (5 ounces, instead of 6.5 ounces for the regular model). The two stoves are identical in size.

Specs are:

Can boil 1 liter of water in 8-10 minutes

(will take longer under adverse conditions)

Weight 5.1 ounces

Size 4 1/4" diameter by 3 3/4" high

For compact storage, this stove is designed to nest inside the Snow Peak Trek 900 (.9L) titanium pot, but will also fit inside many other pots of similar or larger capacity. (Because of the light weight construction of this stove, it is essential to protect it by storing it in your cookpot.).

To assemble : Place the stove on the ground with the ring of holes at ground level; remove
the upper section of the stove from within the firebox, invert it and place
it on top of the stove.
Where to set up : The stove will not perform well in windy conditions. It is very important to set the stove up in a sheltered area or to create a windbreak. Any time spent in searching for or creating shelter will be more than repaid in time saved waiting for water to boil.
The BUSHBUDDY can be safely placed directly on a wooden surface such as an outdoor picnic table, and it will not scorch it in normal use. If you set up the stove on the ground, clear the surrounding area of flammable materials like grass or leaves, because the fire sometimes tosses out sparks. The stove can be picked up and moved to a new location while burning if you are careful to hold only the lower base section. (In hot weather you may need to use gloves or pot holders.)
Do not use the stove indoors unless you have a means of venting the exhaust gases to the outdoors, such as a teepee with a vent at the top.

To start a fire : Use only dry wood. When other fire starting materials are not available, make three or four short fuzz sticks with your knife. Also collect a handful of small dry twigs or split some fine kindling. Light one of the fuzz sticks and place it in the firebox so the flames will climb up the shavings. Add a second fuzz stick, and as the fire grows, some of the fine kindling. If the fire begins to die down, add a third fuzz stick, and then some more kindling. Once the fire is burning well, you can begin adding bigger pieces of wood. The chief cause of difficulty in starting a fire is using wood that is not really dry; in particular avoid using stuff found lying on the ground to start a fire, even if it seems dry.?
Although the stove can be fed with nothing more than twigs broken up by hand, bigger solid pieces of wood will be found much more satisfactory, burning longer with less feeding of the fire. An easy way to cut the short pieces of wood needed is to place the wood over a log and nick each side with an ax, then hit the end with the poll of the ax to break it off. Or, a small saw such as the on a Leatherman tool or Swiss Army Knife can be used to nick each side of the wood lightly, so that it can be easily broken to length. This saves the effort of sawing right through. With an ax, however, larger diameter pieces of wood (such as a small dead tree) can be utilized too, by first splitting and then breaking into shorter pieces. (Lean any leftover wood against a tree to keep it dry for future use by yourself or others.) Twigs, chips, roots, bark, and pine cones all make good fuel once the fire is going well, if they are reasonably dry. Under rainy conditions anything lying on the ground is sure to be too damp. The driest wood available is often the lower dead branches of living trees, particularly conifers such as spruce which shelter their lower branches. If in doubt about the availability of good dry wood at the campsite, collect some along the trail when the opportunity arises, and take it with you.

Cooking : A frying pan or pot can be placed directly on the stove, and wood can be fed to the fire through the opening in the upper section without removing the pot. With a little experience, the heat can be controlled to some extent by regulating the amount of fuel added to the fire. For example, to simmer a pot of rice once it has boiled, add only one medium sized piece of wood at a time and then only just when the flames are about to go out. (If the flames do go out, add a small chip of wood only, and wait for the flames to re-ignite and raise the firebox temperature, before adding more wood.)
For longer or more gentle simmering, it is better to suspend the pot a little above the stove. One of the simplest ways to do this is by using the traditional dingle stick (a stick jammed into the ground at an angle, with a rock or log placed in the angle formed with the ground). The pot is hung on the end of the stick, and can be raised or lowered by adjusting the position of the supporting rock or log. Suspending the pot has other advantages too, among them a reduced likelihood of accidentally spilling it, (especially if the ground is not firm), and a cleaner burning fire with easier feeding. If you have a very large pot or bucket to heat, two stoves can be placed under a suspended pot.

To sterilize water : If you are unsure of the safety of your water supply, bringing it to a rolling boil will kill any microorganisms--no need for prolonged boiling. Boiling will not protect you from chemical contamination.

Using the BUSHBUDDY as a campfire : In moderate weather, the stove makes a great alternative to an open campfire, providing light, warmth and cheer while conserving firewood.

Safety : Use the stove where open campfires are permitted. The stove can toss out sparks (due to tiny steam explosions of slightly damp wood), something that a liquid fueled stove does not do. Set the stove up in an area cleared of combustible materials like leaves and grass, and watch for any sparks tossed out. Before leaving your campsite, dump any remaining charcoal on bare earth and thoroughly drench it with water.’

23/08/2016: Ultralight Collapsible Coffee Cup: My lightest cup is 30 grams when these guys are around 20, though they don’t have a handle and are collapsible which has both pluses and minuses. Their advantage for us though is that both would fit inside our Vango 450 ml Titanium cup so that I could just take it and our Toaks 1100 ml pot with frypan handle. All three fit inside the Suluk wood stove and the Brasslite Turbo 1D and measure fit snugly inside that. http://www.theultralighthiker.com/cookset-woes/ We need just throw in a collapsible plate such as this https://www.traildesigns.com/fozzil-bowlz and we have a (shared) mess kit which will cut out some of Della’s pack weight.

[object Object]

‘The UltrAspire Cup 7oz. greatly reduces the amount of waste generation and environmental impact of a paper cup. Designed to reduce the amount of waste created by disposable paper cups at races, the UltrAspire C2 cup is reusable, collapsible, and at just 0.7 ounces, easy to bring wherever you go. Keep it in the pocket of your running shorts or racing vest, and take it out for fast filling at aid stations. Made from FDA-approved silicone, the cup pops up to a standing height of 3.5 inches and folds back down when you’re done. Great for cup-free or bring-your-own-cup events, it also comes in handy for travelling, car camping, and backpacking with kids.’ Approx US$8ea plus shipping costs.

[object Object]

Additional Information

Weight 0.04 lbs

Dimensions 3.5 x 2.87 x 2.87 in

Color Luminous Blue

See: https://vimeo.com/160288205 & http://ultraspire.com/product/ultraspire-c2-cup/ & https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ultraspire-c2-cup?mode=guest_open

[object Object]

15/08/2016: New cookset: One of the pleasant surprises my birthday brought this year was this wonderful Toaks 1350 ml pot and frypan lid from Trail Designs (https://www.traildesigns.com/cookware/toaks-1350-ml-ultralight-titanium-pot) Though only 9 grams heavier then my Toaks 1100 ml pot it holds 250ml more, so it is big enough for the biggest meals for two people on the trail (or for heating enough water for a shower: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/bathtime-on-the-trail-the-one-gram-platypus-shower/) – and the frypan (at over 6” – 155mm) is big enough to do some serious cooking with (eg: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/he-hiked-with-a-falafel-in-his-hand/). I found that my ‘egg ring’ stove makes an excellent stand for it (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-egg-ring-ultralight-wood-burner-stove/) The Toaks windscreen works well with it (http://toaksoutdoor.com/windscreen.aspx & http://www.theultralighthiker.com/windscreens/) and Trail Designs 12-10 alcohol stove (https://www.traildesigns.com/stoves/12-10-stove) with simmer ring/s (https://www.traildesigns.com/simmer-ring) cooks my hiking meals to perfection.

Weights:

Pot 101 grams

Frypan Lid 62 grams

Egg Ring 8 grams

3 x Vargo pegs 21 grams

Toaks Windscreen 17 grams

Inc. paperclips 1.5 grams

12-10 Stove 16 grams

Simmer Rings 3 grams

Plastic cup 29 grams

.5l Platypus bottle 35 grams

Measure: 1.5 grams

Total: 295 grams

23/05/2016: The Egg-Ring Ultralight Wood Burner Stove: This is a development of the traditional ‘three-stone fire’ using three tent pegs and an egg-ring. The aluminium egg-rings cost $8 for 3 on eBay and stop the pegs from falling in/out. You need to drill three equidistant holes around the edge. Presumably you already carry tent pegs. These are the Vargo’s Shepherd’s Hook Titanium Pegs I wrote about here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tent-stakes-and-tricks/ They weigh 8 grams each. You would be better with the plain ones for this purpose, though the paint will quickly burn off I’m sure. The pot is Vargo’s Titanium 450 ml ‘Travel Mug’ with the stay-cool rim (62 grams) http://www.vargooutdoors.com/titanium-travel-mug-450.html#.V0E8kuS8vcs

The egg ring fits even in this cup when not in use. The egg-ring weighs 11 grams. A titanium windscreen would be a useful addition adding perhaps another 3-4 grams: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/windscreens/ You can see Spot approves of the set-up. If you haven’t an egg-ring and/or you want to make the set-up lighter, you could cut the top off a tin can (one which has a ring pull) with a can opener which cuts around the wall of the can. This will produce a lighter ring when you take the top off. If you can find a largish aluminium cat food can, this ring might only weigh 3 grams. If you use the 1 gram stakes I used here http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-multi-fuel-stove-cookset/ you will have a set-up which weighs only 6-7 grams. Beat that!

19/05/2016: Stoveless Cooking: Warning: This may not be for everyone: http://gossamergear.com/wp/stoveless-camping-crotch-pot

‘This third option between stoves and no-cook is the brainchild of Gossamer Gear founder Glen Van Peski. Infrared images of the human body confirm what is basically common knowledge; one of the hottest parts of the human body is the crotch area. Your body naturally generates significant heat while hiking; why not harness this heat for a warm dinner…Glen has used this system for years, and we finally talked him into exposing it to the rest of us. The Crotch Pot™ is constructed of ultralight cuben fiber, and attaches to any pants with belt loops. If your favorite pants don’t have loops, just use some safety pins to attach the pouch. Any recipe that you pour hot water into and let stand will work.’

Crotch Pot

12/05/2016: Soda Can Stove Mark 2: Progress is ubiquitous: this guy has rejigged the ‘traditional’ soda can stove so that it heats up more quickly and generally works better. It’s the one on the right. Full instructions here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Improved-Soda-Can-Stove/?ALLSTEPS If it’s a wet day it may be time for a little DIY therapy.

Picture of Improved Soda Can Stove

13/04/2016: Fire Engine Rolls Over Peanut Lighter: Impressive. A little heavy maybe (14.3/19.9 grams) , but refillable and well-nigh indestructible: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpAKR3DmLZQ After recently suffering a failure with a Mini-Bic (I had a spare) – 12 grams. I am seriously considering my firelighting options. After all if you seriously value your life the ability to light a fire in the wilderness is utterly vital: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/how-to-light-a-fire-in-the-wet/ Available (in a number of sizes), here: http://www.countycomm.com/tipeanutlighter.html from $US29.50.

tipeanutlargelarge6

27/01/2016: Cookset Woes: Some people seem to think it is fashionable to lug around the kitchen sink and a range simply to warm a couple of evening snacks, so you see people all the time with a food prep setup which weighs maybe a kg – or more. The empty canisters of such systems typically weigh more than my ultralight pot and Caldera Cone system together – and I need carry no fuel! Evernew deep pot with frypan lid = 123 grams plus Caldera Cone and two titanium tent pegs @ 44 grams = 167 grams. I think people need to seriously reprise their cooking/cookset options.

The lightest fuel option is a wood burner, followed by an Esbit, followed by metho (for short trips) with canisters coming a poor last. I carry a few bits of esbit as fire starters, a small metho stove and some metho for lazy meals and for long simmers which can be tedious with a wood.

You can balance a pot on three tent pegs (a variation of the three stone fire), the triangular ones work best, but you are quite likely to lose your meal if you aren’t very careful. You do learn to be more careful.

I progressed to the Bushbuddy stove http://bushbuddy.ca/indexs.html which I still think is great at about 150 grams and C$120. It burns cleanly, without scarring the earth or the danger of starting a bushfire. You only need a handful of dry twigs to boil a billy of water. These can even be found in Fiordland most times!

I was lucky enough that Della bought me the Rolls Royce knock off of this stove, the Suluk TDW http://www.suluk46.com/products%20%20-%20P14%20TDW%20Stove.html which weighs only 86 grams: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/suluk-stove/

If you don’t mind a tiny bit of scorched earth the Caldera Cone (with two tent pegs) usually weighs about 44 grams altogether https://www.traildesigns.com/stoves/caldera-cone-system See my post: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-cookware/

Cutaway View of Caldera Cone

My favourite for an alcohol stove is the Brasslite http://brasslite.com/products/brasslite-turbo-i-d-backpacking-stove/ which weighs 47 grams, because you can simmer/fry with it – so important if you plan to catch fish.

If you want a simple boiler, either make your own (eg the Supercat http://www.theultralighthiker.com/supercat-hiking-stove/ or Garlington http://www.theultralighthiker.com/diy-side-burner-metho-stove/ or http://www.theultralighthiker.com/soda-can-stove/ ) or maybe buy one from Minibull Designs https://www.minibulldesign.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=195&idcategory=2 (I have used their Elite @ 7 grams for many years) or get one with your Caldera Cone from Trail Designs (above) – theirs also have simmer rings.

If you are going to burn wood, you need a fixed blade knife so you can split wood to get at the dry heart wood and make ‘exelcior’ for fire lighting. Actually this is something you need to be able to do anyway if you are to survive in the woods if things turn very nasty – and they can! See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/carry-a-knife/ & http://www.theultralighthiker.com/how-to-light-a-fire-in-the-wet/

Of course, you also need a lightweight cook pot. If you are on a budget, an aluminium billy from a disposals store is hard to beat. Otherwise: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-cook-pots/ Don’t forget the importance of windscreens: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/windscreens/ See also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/toaks-ultralight-titanium-cook-system/ & http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-cookware/

This is a useful product to prevent your burning your lips: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hot-lips/

You might also give serious thought to adding a desalinator to your cookset so you never run out of water: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/water-hiking-desalinator/

This site is the encyclopedia of DIY stoves; many hours of fun and enjoyment here: http://zenstoves.net/LinksGeneral-DIY.htm

What to cook is yet another issue eg: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-food-2/

16/03/2015: HOT LIPS: Useful product: http://www.rei.com/product/800044/snow-peak-hotlips-package-of-2 & http://snowpeak.com/products/single-600-cup-hotlips-set-mgh-044?variant=671143709

20/09/2014: This is a Trail Designs Caldera Cone with a Toaks 1100ml pot & frypan lid. The ‘cone’ plus two titanium pegs weighs 44grams. A ‘floor’ to prevent leaving a burn mark, if you care - & to facilitate lighting weighs about 12 grams. The pot (inc. lid) weighs 156 grams. This cone also fits the Evernew 900ml ultralight deep pot (123 grams inc. lid) – fine for one. I could not believe how QUICKLY it boiled @500ml of water. These pots & etc are about as good as it gets (& surprisingly cheap). You can also use the ‘cone’ as a windscreen if you are using a metho burner (which Rand also sells - also with simmer control): http://www.traildesigns.com/stoves/toaks-1100ml-ti-pot-frying-pan-fissure-ti-tri-bundle

17/09/2014: The Father’s Day Suluk 46 TDW titanium double wall wood stove (78 grams) in operation. (Notice how cleanly it burns). WHAT a beauty! I wonder what adventures IT will share: http://www.suluk46.com/products%20%20-%20P14%20TDW%20Stove.html This is a replacement for the4 excellent ‘Bushbuddy’ stove (to save 72 grams!): http://bushbuddy.ca/indexs.html which is MUCH cheaper (and comes in a lovely wooden box!)

09/09/2014: Some fathers ARE spoiled! Yesterday I received this excellent gift: http://www.suluk46.com/products%20%20-%20P14%20TDW%20Stove.html It will save nearly 3 oz from my pack weight! Yesterday morning I tried boiling the billy on it…and, it is a BEAUTY. I thought NOTHING would surpass the Bushbuddy Ultra (http://bushbuddy.ca/indexs.html) but I was wrong (as usual?) The saving in weight is enough Bacardi 151 to work up quite a glow! This Suluk stove actually burns BETTER than the Bushbuddy AND is easier to ‘feed’. Thanks a million Della! We use these stoves even where (open) fires are prohibited (ie canister stoves only required) as they fulfil all the requirements really, ie the fire is contained; it ‘leaves no trace’ (you can even have it burning on the palm of your hand – so it certainly won’t scorch the ground); it is not in any way injurious to the environment, which can certainly spare a handful of twigs! Of course the (true) beauty of such a cooking system is LIGHTNESS: there is no fuel to carry: this beauty weighs less than the burners of the lightest canister stove (sans canister), so prpbably represents a saving of up to half a kilo (that’s a day’s food!) on a multi-day trip!

12/10/2013: Attention ultralight hikers: this guy has some of the best alcohol stove anywhere and at a good price. We have found his products excellent and have used them for many years: https://www.minibulldesign.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=147&idcategory=2

08/05/2013: The SUPERCAT: This is a VERY useful hiking stove you can make with a paper punch from Officeworks and some empty cat food cans. I have found that there are two sizes and that one fits snugly inside the other (and both inside your cup and inside your billy) so that you can have one for simply boiling and one for simmering. I have also discovered that an esbit burns so slowly in the double holed model that you can bake in your billy on top of it if you make a holey platform with legs out of aluminium flashing which fits inside your billy and suspends (eg the damper) to be cooked about an inch above the bottom of the billy. A windscreen of the same material is also a good idea (and also fits inside your billy): http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/

09/03/2015: DIY SIDE BURNER METHO STOVE: The Ray Garlington Yet Another Coke Can (YACC) Stove

Got 5 minutes, a coke can, and a pair of scissors? If so give this little stove a try. It is easy to make, and uses only one can. Also, the pot sits right on top, so it doesn't need a pot stand. Just add a piece of aluminum foil for the wind screen & you are good to go. The YACC stove can raise a pint of 65*F water to 135*F using 1/4 oz of alcohol when air temperature is around 65*F. I have found this sufficient for my lightweight 'cooking' needs. A 4oz supply of alcohol lasts me for 16 stove firings, which equates to 4 gallons of 'hot' water. Of course, if you need more heat, you can add more fuel.

The stove was inspired by the Antigravity Gear stove (uses two cans) and "The One Can K.I.S.S. Soda Can Stove" by DeoreDX on the TLB Forum. I liked the idea of using just one can, and wanted construction to be as easy as possible. The YACC stove can be made quickly with just a pair of scissors.

Here's how to make it: Obtain an aluminium soda can. Remove the opening tab from the top, and tear the top out with a pair of pliers, or cut out with can opener..

Mark the side of the can 3/4" up from the bottom. Flip the can over and mark the side of the can 1 1/2" from the top.

Using a pair of scissors, cut the can in half

Now, carefully cut along the marked lines. If your marked lines are on the 'thick' side, cut the bottom along the outside of the line (thus making the bottom slightly larger).

Take the top section and cut slits every 1/2" from the cut edge to just below the shoulder of the can top.

Push the tabs slightly toward the center and slide the top section into the bottom section. Push the top (carefully) all the way down into the bottom. The tabs of the top will follow the can bottom until they jam up against the domed part of the bottom. As the shoulder of the top starts to go under the cut edge of the bottom, look for bulges that might tear the bottom and push them inward with the flat side of the scissor's blade. When fully seated, the top's shoulder should be slightly under the bottom lip. None of your slits should be visible from the top. (If they are, you will need to cut another top.) Hold the can together and roll the cut edge of the bottom slightly inward over the top's shoulder to hold the stove together.

If the details above sound too tedious, just push your two stove halves together. At first, your stove will spring up so that the top slits are exposed. Don't worry, because after you light the stove, you put the pot on, which will compress the stove anyhow. After using the stove a few times it will stay compressed (particularly if there was a little soda left in the bottom).

Theory of Operation

OK. Now that you see how it goes together, how does it work without any gas jets? Well actually, the jets are there, but hidden under the cut-edge of the stove bottom. All those cuts in the top allow gas to pass through which find their way out the small gap between the can top and bottom. So, in the end you have a two wall (well sort of) stove that is pressurized (again, sort of).

Operating Instructions

This stove requires preheating to the point where flame comes out the seam. Details: Pour the metho into the stove body. 1/4 oz of fuel will burn for about 3 minutes. Position the wind screen and light the stove by holding a flame above the large hole. Watch out because the stove lights easily and the flames are nearly invisible at first. Hold your pot about an inch above the stove until flames exit the side of the stove (about 15 seconds). When that happens, immediately position the pot on the stove: http://web.archive.org/web/20130827200008/http://www.garlington.biz/Ray/YACCS/

12/03/2015: SUPER CAT STOVE: Another great metho stove, the ‘Super Cat’: http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/

25/07/2015: Soda Can Stove: easy to Follow Instructions: http://www.ehow.com/how_12340111_turn-soda-cans-portable-camp-stove.html

Soda can stoves

Side Burner Soda Can Stove

16/08/2014: 29 GRAM multi-fuel stove: it doesn’t get any better than this: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1080275728/critter-cr2-multifuel-backpacking-camp-stove Well, it DOES I bent three of these 1 gram titanium tent pegs (http://www.amazon.com/Terra-Nova-Titanium-Skewers-Pack/dp/B007POB8IC) carefully like this to make a cradle for this 450ml Vargo (insulated lip) cup (http://www.amazon.com/Terra-Nova-Titanium-Skewers-Pack/dp/B007POB8IC) @68 grams. The addition of a triangle of light wire (looped around each peg) will prevent the pegs from falling outwards spilling the billy into the fire. All you need to add is a mini-Bic (11 grams) and a spork (eg http://www.traildesigns.com/accessories/ulv-titanium-spork @ 11 grams) & a cuben fibre bag (eg from zpacks @ 4 grams) to complete your cook set @ 97 grams! (maybe 100 grams with the wire.)

With pegs configured like this the billy can't fall out.

Bend them like this

13/07/2015: Toaks Ultralight Titanium Cook System; US$58. Weight: Total: 4.4 oz (122g) Includes: Pot with lid: 550 ml; 3.0oz (85g) Dimensions: Pot: 3 1/2" (95mm) (external lower part) (D) x 3 1/8" (80mm) (H); Solid alcohol folding stove: 0.5oz (13g); Folding spork: 0.7oz (18g); Windscreen: 16" x 2 7/8" (405mm x 72mm); 0.2oz (6g). The system comes with a mesh storage sack: http://toaksoutdoor.com/titaniumcs01.aspx Add one of http://snowpeak.com/products/hotlips-2-piece-set-mgh-001?variant=671143453 4 grams. Total 126 grams. Just great for daytrips or overnighters.

28/07/2015: Toaks Bail Handle: These folks have re-introduced billies with bail handles (along with side handles): http://toaksoutdoor.com/potwithbailhandle.aspx It adds a little bit of weight but means that you can cook by suspending it over a fire. You have to buy the frypan lids separately unfortunately, eg: http://toaksoutdoor.com/accessories.aspx

10/07/2015: Windscreens: If you don’t use one you are likely using twice, maybe three times too much fuel – which you most likely had to carry many hard miles. You can check this out for yourself: 250 ml of water should boil with about 7 ml of methylated spirits. Try it yourself on a home-made ‘Supercat’ stove: http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/ Without a windscreen you may need 15-20 ml. Smarten up. You can make your own, as shown here on my old Snowpeak 1400ml (210 gram) pot http://snowpeak.com/collections/all/products/trek-1400-titanium-cookset?variant=671149753 from a piece of aluminium flashing with just a pair of industrial scissors. Notice it is joined with just a couple of paper clips. I have put bottom air events only on the lee side, which is the best idea, I think. It weighs 40 grams – but I can see how I could have trimmed it a bit and maybe shaved it down to 25! You should bring the windscreen about an inch up the pot and have a gap between it and the pot of less then 1/8”. You want to capture ALL of the heat from whatever stove is underneath the pot. In this case it is a Brasslite 47 gram adjustable stove http://brasslite.com/products/brasslite-turbo-i-d-backpacking-stove/ which is wonderful! For years I used the lightest simple boiler soda can stove I could get which weighed 7 grams from https://www.minibulldesign.com/productcart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=2 It is still in my overnight camping kit. You can see from its blackening that the pot has had a fair bit of use on my Bushbuddy (145 gram) Stove: http://bushbuddy.ca/indexs.html which is a ‘fuel-less’ stove ie, you burn twigs you find on the way. Sometimes the metho stove is good for a quick cuppa though. Now I have a titanium windscreen which weighs only 7 grams on my Toaks (156 gram) 1100 ml pot: http://www.traildesigns.com/cookware/toaks-titanium-1100ml-pot-ckw1100 You can buy one here: http://www.titaniumgoat.com/windscreens.html You can probably figure the weight saving from switching pot + windscreen 210 + 40 = 250 grams; 156 + 7 = 163 grams. Saving: 87 grams – enough meths saved to boil over 3 litres of water (12 cups of hot soup perhaps!) Some people sell a pot with a heat exchanger on the bottom. You will never save enough fuel to compensate for its extra weight. Indeed, if you had adjusted your windscreen properly (as above) you would not have saved any fuel at all – just be lugging around a clunker! Instructions for making your own windscreen here: http://brasslite.com/instructions-for-making-the-brasslite-windscreen/ Another way to save fuel (instead of simmering) is to use/make a pot cosy. See instructions for making your own here: http://brasslite.com/make-your-own-pot-cozy/, or buy one here: http://www.antigravitygear.com/shop/cozy-collection/antigravitygear-pot-cozy/ Locally (Oz) you can buy Toaks’ windscreen (http://toaksoutdoor.com/search.aspx?find=windscreen) here: http://www.backpackinglight.com.au/ which is just about the only store in Victoria specialising in lightweight hiking gear. DO pay them a visit. Say, ‘Hello’ to Tim from me!

23/01/2016: Ultralight Cook Pots: You don’t have to carry a brick around to warm a little food. There are some beautiful ultralight pots out there. The new 1350 ml Toaks Pot 102g (pot alone) - 145mm x 80mm (H x D) is big enough for two people https://www.traildesigns.com/cookware/toaks-1350-ml-ultralight-titanium-pot US$54.95; Add a Frypan Lid big enough to actually fry something (See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/he-hiked-with-a-falafel-in-his-hand/) 142 mm wide (5 19/32”) and 62 grams: https://www.traildesigns.com/cookware/toaks-145mm-frying-pan $US!9.95 Pot plus lid = 164 grams. You could add a Caldera Cone system (https://www.traildesigns.com/stoves/caldera-cone-system) so you don’t have to carry fuel. Bundle here: https://www.traildesigns.com/stoves/toaks-1350ml-ti-pot-frying-pan-fissure-ti-tri-bundle You might also be interested in their smaller pots eg the Evernew 900ml Ulralight Deep Pot (123 grams) https://www.traildesigns.com/cookware/evernew-titanium-ultra-light-deep-pot-9l-eca265 and the Toaks 1100 ml (156 grams) https://www.traildesigns.com/cookware/toaks-titanium-1100ml-pot-ckw1100 which are both the same diameter (which Della and I carry) so the same Caldera Cone (weight 44 grams including two tent pegs) will fit either.

10/06/2015: Dinner Expedition Planning at Jeeralang: That's a map of the Mitchell on Matt's phone, the (white) Tyvek tent between me and Spot, the Brasslite stove sitting on an upturned plastic bowl (a 19 gram leveling aid I am trying out) next to the box of Kiwifruit, my camo vest on the back of the chair, two magnifying glasses we have been examining a click beetle chrysalis with (under the other upturned orange bowl) - what a rustic scene! It was NOT staged! Update: The plastic bowl wasn’t sufficiently heat-resistant for the metho burner – suggest a titanium Sierra cup (50 grams) instead eg from Trail Designs. Also available with a folding handle (64 grams). (Combine with ‘Hot Lips’ 16/03/2015 for added comfort.) http://www.traildesigns.com/cookware/evernew-titanium-sierra-cup-eby151

Merrin Caption: The three boys planning their next camping / hunting trip around the dining table.

BREATHING: I am often gob-smacked by just how bright Willis Eschenbach is, but THIS observation was astonishing. Could breathing OUT more combat the breathlessness you get by strenuous walking uphill. I tried this out on my recent hunting trip, and it’s TRUE. I was able to walk in one go to the top of hills I normally have to pause several times to ascend and arrive completely NOT out of breath. Try it yourself: http://wattsupwiththat.com/2013/09/23/catching-my-breath/ Also see http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/Breathing/index.html for this and MUCH more!a

Keen Targhee 2 Sole Keen Targhee 2 Upper

FOOT CARE in the wilderness is supremely important, as sore feet will make your journey a misery. You should be very confident about your shoes before you set out on an expedition. Hiking footwear is THE most perplexing problem. The expensive hiking boots are almost universally terrible. Don’t go and spend several hundred dollars on a pair and then set out. One of the chiefest problems is ‘How much do they weigh? AND How much do they weigh when they are WET? NOTHING makes for harder work than heavy feet. I have a whole large box of hiking footwear I have worn ONCE! I honestly don’t know what will suit YOU – available free, if you are game – and silly! YOU will have to work that out, but not by spending a fortune. Sneakers and runners are one of the best choices (for light weight – but bear in mind foot PROTECTION) providing they will not puncture too readily from below (or from the side) and (IF – check!) they are still light when they are wet and they are not too narrow in the toes (because when going downhill, if they are, life will become a MISERY! You MAY need half sizes (wider) as I do, but many stores don’t carry them or pretend they don’t exist. Many shoes will MORE than double in weight when they are wet, and some of the hiking sneakers pump water in and out with each step in such a way that you still have the weight but also a shoefull of very cold water all the time. They may even pinch the nerves at the base of your big toes and create an aching numbness which will last for weeks!) Shoes MUST GRIP ON WET ROCKS, wet leaves and sticks. Almost nothing does – and you can only find out by trying. If they don’t, you WILL have a nasty fall, often straight on to the back of your neck: Ouch! In my opinion the makers of most hiking shoes should be SHOT! I am yet to find a Vibram sole which will grip on anything in wet bush, and I will never again buy any boots which have them. Some of the light leather (soft toe) work boots are good, practical and economic choices. Blundstones and Redbacks, for example. They HAVE to be lace-ups as you will roll around mercilessly in pull-ons, and your feet will KILL you! The basic models of both brands absorb very little water in my experience (only 50-100 grams per shoe) – but the manufacturers are always working at making their shoes worse! They have decided to fill in the space in front of the heel for example - so you can no longer ‘dig your heels in’ when going downhill; if you do you will notice they have chamfered the back of the heel so they ‘assist’ you in falling hard on your back when you do! I used to wear only Highmark ‘GP’s’ for years when suddenly they became unwearable to me, similarly Rossi hiking boots – but they MAY work well for YOU. With leather boots it is a good idea to fill them with water for a few days and have them sitting in the sun on the verandah, then when you are about to go on a hike of a couple of hours or so, tip out the water and put them on. This will mould them to your feet like slippers. Old hands use to urinate in their new boots and leave them stand to soften. This may work even better! Afterwards, when they dry out again, you will have to dubbin them up again to resoften the leather. At the moment I have been wearing some nice wide Keen Targhees shoes (which have a good protective rubber toe). They have been quite comfortable for me, but the grip on the sole does not last long. At my weight, the shoes are failing after a few weeks’ walking, at most. Still, I would rather throw away a pair of shoes after a week if that’s how long they gripped well (but I had a good time in them while they lasted) than repeat some other of the footwear disasters I have experienced. I spiked a pair of very light New Balance for example with a tree root as thick as your thumb right in the centre of my foot, and a LONG way from home! Fortunately I was OK, but you don’t want to repeat this ‘experiment’!

14/08/2011: Who would have believed a hiking/running shoe which weighs less than 200 grams? http://www.inov-8.com/Products.asp?PG=PG1&L=26 and these people have a river crossing shoe which weighs 53 grams: http://www.sprintaquatics.com/prodinfo.asp?number=901

Foot care is very important: YOUR FEET are what are going to get you there AND out of there, but more importantly are what is going to ensure you have a good time, especially if you are a foot fetishist! Sore feet are NO FUN! You should prepare your feet for a long walk ahead of time. If you suffer from dry feet (and cracking of the heels, etc) you need to copiously apply ‘heel balm’ (there are many brands) at least once a day eg before you put your socks on in the mornings until your feet are just like babies’ feet. I would recommend this anyway. During your hike you should reapply it every morning to ensure that your feet are soft and well lubricated. This will help to prevent blisters (which you should NEVER SUFFER FROM!) You can decant enough into small containers such as are sold by Coughlin’s – useful also for insect repellent, sun screen, hand cream, toothpaste etc. Gossamer Gear also sell micro dripper bottles which are very useful for small quantities of various liquids. A small tube or quantity of anti-fungal cream is a medical essential. If you contract tinea on a long walk it will quickly make your life a misery unless you have something to eradicate it. BEWARE: it can also strike in the crutch region (as can chafing – hand cream here at the beginning of the day is a good idea). Cut your toenails VERY short about ten days before your hike. This will make the flesh under the front of them quite tender for a few days before it toughens up (This is part of the idea!). Then, the day before the hike, file them back again so that the toenails do not protrude more than the flesh of your toes. It is the flesh of your toes which should encounter your shoes, NOT your toenails. BE WARNED! One of the worst problems you will encounter on a long hike (mainly caused by down-hilling) is the toenails striking the fronts of your shoes and being driven back into the roots and quicks. This will quickly cause them to blacken, become very sore and they WILL FALL OUT. It IS AGONY! Avoid this at all costs! It is ONE reason why I look for wider shoes. Blisters are another VERY unpleasant experience. As a preventative wear a pair of lightweight wicking liner socks (such as are sold by Wigwam – makers of some excellent socks!) They WILL help to prevent blisters as they move relative to your shoes and your socks, eliminating some of the friction. Take plenty of Band-Aid ‘Blister Pads’ (two sizes) and apply them the INSTANT you start to get a hot spot. They will stay on for days and really DO prevent blisters. You should have already chosen shoes which do NOT move against your feet and create friction. If you haven’t experimented extensively with your shoes before a multi-day hike you are a goose! A roll of Leucotape is AN ESSENTIAL. About ¾” inch is good. You have NO IDEA how many people I have seen on hikes whose feet resemble some nightmare from Flanders’ Fields. Be Warned! Or be VERY SORRY!

25/07/2016: Tight Shoes: With age, gravity tends to give us a larger foot size. Our feet expand under our weight. Solid, well-made leather shoes can be stretched between a half-size to a whole size. Poor quality shoes can not take the stress of stretching - either the leather itself, or the stitching, will break.

Things to try: Shoe stretchers will adjust width or length. Cheap on Amazon. Over a day or two, you keep increasing the tension in the stretcher. Heating the shoes with a hair dryer or in a hot sun makes the leather a bit more stretchable. Soaking the shoe well with water or, better, isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) before stretching is what expert cobblers do. Simpler, soak with water or rubbing alcohol and wear the shoes. Be careful not to overdo it or you can end up with loose shoes.

An interesting ‘hack’ here suggests filling a plastic bag with water and placing it inside the shoe then freezing it/them. As the ice expands it will stretch the shoe. I guess this would work. We probably all have a box of ill-fitting shoes somewhere that we could experiment with. Might save a few bucks: http://www.lifehack.org/articles/lifestyle/how-stretch-shoes-that-are-too-tight.html

old boots by lapam04 on DeviantArt

16/07/2016: Boot Chains: If you don’t need a permanent traction solution (like this: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/4wd-boots/), you can carry some boot traction aids such as these: https://www.rei.com/c/winter-traction-devices?r=c&ir=category%3Awinter-traction-devices&page=1 & https://www.grainger.com/category/footwear-traction-devices/footwear-and-footwear-accessories/safety/ecatalog/N-ipe Some reviews here: http://www.trailspace.com/gear/traction-devices/

02/07/2016: 4WD Boots: These tungsten carbide tipped studs provide huge levels of confidence in all slippery conditions underfoot whether that is due to ice, grass slopes, moss, seaweed or wet timber. Once installed they become part of the boot and the enhanced grip is available at all times.

http://www.gripstuds.com/Boots.php & http://www.supatracks.com/best-grip-boot-studs-buy-online-uk.html

04/05/2016: Keen Shoes:

Voyageur.

Keen make some excellent comfy shoes, particularly if you have wide feet like me in which case you pretty much have no other choice anyway. I have had a number of Keen shoes: Targhee 2, Gypsum, Marshall and now Voyageur. Until I bought the Marshall I thought Keen had pretty much sorted out the water absorption problem with their shoes. That is shoes which take on too much weight when wet and which will not give it up again anytime soon,. They had not!

The Marshall took on much more than twice their own weight (over 450 grams of water) and were still sodden days later despite sitting on the sun in the verandah next to my old pairs of Gypsum and Targhee 2 (which I tested simultaneously) which were bone dry the next day - whereas the Marshal were still wet four days later. This is a disaster. I will say Keen generously refunded me the money on the new Marshal but not before they had caused me some angst. I would also like to issue a further warning: I switched out the shoe liners for a pair of orthotic liners which I thought would be more comfortable. These liners took on and held 100 grams of water per shoe as well! Double disaster! Lesson: 1. Test and weigh long before you go. 2. Make sure you have pretty new shoes ready before any big trip!

We were heading off to hike the South Coast Track in NZ on the Easter Monday (See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/westies-hut/ & etc). After close of trading on the Thursday before Easter just as we were heading off for our afternoon walk I happened to turn over my old pair of Gypsum when I realised the soles were starting to deteriorate such that they might have let me down days from anywhere. On reflection I realise that I have waked over 3,000 km in these shoes and they are still quite serviceable for daily walks – so no complaints there! Just as clearly though I needed a new pair of shoes.

I would only have Easter Saturday morning to buy them.- and I needed size 8 1/2s. Much frenzied ringing around informed me that my only accessible alternative was a pair of Marshall from a local retailer, so I bought them. Carrying that extra 450 grams of water on each foot for a week certainly took some of the gloss off our otherwise wonderful walk. In retrospect I would have been much better off taking my old pair of Redback leather boots which though they start off dry around 100 grams heavier, would have been over 300 grams lighter when wet – a certainty in Fiordland.

I have advanced the suggestion to keen that they test weigh all their boots wet, after five minutes walking after they are wet and after a number of hours drying and that they post this data along with their dry weights. I offered to repost all this data on my website right here, but they say they are not in the business of weighing wet shoes – which is a great pity. Perhaps they will change their minds? The sales representative I spoke to at Keen though owned a pair of the new Versatrail himself which he kindly tested for me. I can state that they add about 150 grams when wet much the same as my old Gypsum, Targhee2 and my new Voyageurs. (I haven’t tested the new Targhee or Gypsum)

I have now bought a new pair of Targhee 2, Gypsum and Voyageur shoe, all in 8 ½. The new Gypsum and Targhee 2 weigh around 520 dry (a significant increase for my old Targhees which were size 8 – I hope they have not changed the lining) and the Voyaguers around 425 dry per shoe. The Voyageur added 150 grams when wet some of which pumped out after a few steps. They have lost 50 grams overnight in fairly cool air so I daresay they would dry on my feet in about half an hour as my old Gypsums and Targhees usually do.

As the Voyaguers start off 100 grams lighter and are 100 grams lighter when wet I suggest they will become my default hiking shoe. The new Versatrail is (apparently) marginally lighter still (and quick drying etc) but does not have such an aggressive sole so might be more appropriate on formed walking paths than in the backblocks.

I am unaware of any shoe manufacturer who will tell you the wet weight of their shoes. They are also liable to change the composition of shoes without notice too so that anew pair might be different in this regard than your old ones. I have a whole basket of (new) shoes which I will never again wear as they either have this (too heavy wet) defect or the other main serious defect that they will not grip on wet surfaces. As well as stating dry and wet weights manufacturers ought to be required to state a coefficient of friction for their soles both wet and dry.

I will update this post if I hear from any of them – and after I have tested out my new Targhee and Gypsum.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/why-you-should-get-your-feet-wet-when-hiking/

18/08/2014: Now that is a neat idea: http://briangreen.net/2011/07/diy-single-use-antibiotic-packs.html

Tiny containers made from a drinking straw sealed with a cigarette lighter.

07/08/2014: Sandals are well named (if not well-spelled). They certainly DO fill up with sand and grit so that you have to stop frequently to empty them out (a more arduous task for me these days because of my arthritis) but they ARE much cooler for walking in hot weather. My personal choice are these Keen Newport H2s. (Della seems happy with her couple of pairs too): http://www.keenfootwear.com/us/en/product/shoes/men/waterfront/newport%20h2

I have weighed the Newports (422g) and the Arroyo 2 (411g) each (in US size 9). Probably the Arroyo IS a better trail sandal:

SOCKS: I have found Wigwam brand very good over the years, and liner socks are VERY important (especially if wearing boots rather than sneakers) as already mentioned, but they ARE pretty dear: there is nothing wrong with the old-fashioned ‘Holeproof’ brand: Heroes (summer – and as liner socks!) and Explorers (winter). I just bought some online from Harris Scarfe. To protect yourself from leeches, tuck the ends of your trousers into your socks. I NEVER wear gaiters: they will just add unnecessary weight to your feet, and remember: Every pound on your feet equals about TEN pounds on your back! If you MUST have gaiters, (a mental deficiency I have never understood) get some ultralight ones, eg from Mountain Laurel Designs: Super Light Gaiters @ 50 grams per pair: http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=37&products_id=114 These are great too, waterproof/breathable rain mitts for when it is VERY cold. Surprising how unpleasant frozen hands really are. You really don’t need much insulation: just keep them dry. These weigh 35 grams per pair: http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=51 Zpacks makes something similar out of cuben – and even lighter, (from 27 grams per pair!)

19/09/2014: Shoelaces: usually come undone because you are tying a Granny Knot instead of reversing the handedness between the first and second knot of a Double Knot! Flat shoelaces also stay done up better than round ones. There are many other great ways of tying shoelaces, eg: http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/secureknot.htm

14/08/2011: Just to lighten up a bit, you might want to bookmark this one. Knots are very handy and this site shows how to tie them easily. There MAY be a hangman's noose there as well, which could be handy in this political climate: http://www.animatedknots.com/

11/08/2014: I KNOW most of us wear pull-on boots (perhaps because we can’t tie our laces), but there have been some advances in shoe laces, eg Aramid Shoe Laces http://www.moontrail.com/accessrs/a-misc/aramid_laces.html and Dyneema: https://www.rhinolaces.com/ And, if you need help tying them: http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/tying.htm

GETTING LOST is always an interesting challenge – and something which happens to ALL of us from time to time. So don’t fret about it, and don’t panic when you are a bit ‘geographically challenged’. If you have never been ‘bushed’ you have probably not spent much time ‘in the bush’. Often it is just a case eg of being ‘bluffed out’. In the Fiordland bush (particularly) there is no clear route up and down. You work your way up one (ridge), but when you are coming down it splits into a myriad, many of them ending in precipitous ‘bluffs’ (hence the term) which dictate (that) you have to retrace your route and try again. If you got up there, there MUST be a way down (without falling off), so persistence is better than panic. IN flattish country it is easier to get ‘bushed’, or if you are excited: I once ran off precipitously to catch my hounds which had been ‘out’ all night on the Green Hills near the top of Mt Useful. It was snowing lightly, there was very thick regrowth, cloud cover was down to @ 50’ and the topography was surprisingly flat (a plateau) for the top of a mountain. I had left Merrin and her friend in the car (both aged 3!). When I had chased the dogs around in circles for about twenty minutes (and caught them) I realised I had not been paying attention to where I had been going. ALWAYS pay attention. It was an anxious half an hour before I regained the vehicle. The kids were fine, fortunately, supping on bickies, etc. Just recently I was unexpectedly bluffed out in heavy fog by one of those surprising ridges which has a round hill in the middle of it. If (well, WHEN) you end up spending an unintentional night in the bush it should not kill you if you came adequately prepared. If you did not, you are an idiot. The most important preparation (the most important TOOL too) is what is between your ears! You should never travel without it; better than any mechanism, it requires no batteries, updates itself and should never let you down – if it is well-trained. It is always easier to find your way up than down - as all ridges become one as you ascend, but split into a multiplicity as you descend.

13/11/2014: I bought these watch bands on eBay for $1.99. I think they are great because you don’t lose the watch if you snag it on some brush or a vine and tear out one of the pins (which happens). I also added a wrist compass ($3.99) which makes this Seiko auto-winder ($49.99) set-up just about perfect:

DIRECTION: You don’t really need a compass (and you may not always have one - though a compass and a self-winding watch are a good idea as they are two of the most reliable aids you can have). In the Southern Hemisphere the sun is always in the Northern (third) of the sky. At mid-day it should be pretty much due North. You can estimate how far it has to travel (or has travelled) by measuring finger widths to the horizon, each finger representing approximately a quarter hour (at arm’s length). (This is just one of my ‘rules of thumb’). Usually it won’t matter if you are a few degrees off your route: you can’t travel very far in a single day anyway, and if you are lost for more than one day, something is seriously wrong, but if so, think about either heading in one direction (the closest known civilisation and/or following water downstream. If you were paying attention when you set out, and as you travelled along, you should always be able to find your way back to where you started that day. Just keeping in mind where a generally Northerly direction is, by the end of the day you should not be more than a couple of hundred metres from any destination you have chosen for the day. If you are not, you have not been paying attention. You should note important landmarks on the way out, and turn around as you go out so that you can remember what they will look like on your return trip. This is VERY important and should never be ignored. When you are walking you don’t need any more directions than (at most) the eight cardinal points of the compass. Usually your direction at any given time is determined by topography anyway, so that if you DO want to generally head in a particular direction, necessity will bend your course away from it either to the right or left. You will need to walk for approximately the same amount of time in the opposite (left or right) tendency to keep to your course anyway. (If you need to think more precisely about direction than that, here is another ‘rule of thumb’: the palm of your hand (at arm’s length) is approximately 15 degrees. The tip of your little finger at arm’s length is approximately 1 degree). Should you really need to know (precisely) where East and West are, shove a stick into the ground and mark the spot where the end of its shadow touches the ground. Mark the same spot say 15 minutes later. Draw a line between the two. That line is precisely East-West. Obviously North-South is precisely perpendicular to it. If you cannot SEE the sun (because it is cloudy etc) often a stick will still cast a faint shadow on pale ground. If not a very small hole (eg made in a leaf) will ‘project’ the sun’s disc onto the ground. Looking around through such a small hole should enable you to work out where the brightest spot in the sky is.

A thumbdial, when you know the time of day tells you the direction of the sun, thus providing orientation. The secret of the thumbdial is that it reveals the sun’s location by revealing its shadow. Begin by standing in an open area and placing the tip of a knife blade on top of your thumbnail and rotate it slowly, watching for a slight shadow to be revealed on the matte textured surface. The location of the sun of course is on the opposite side of the knife blade from the shadow. The wide and narrow silhouette of the blade helps to accent this. The sun’s brightness is defused in fog but still maintains a brighter presence which is revealed by the very slight shadow.

If all else fails moss/lichen grows on the South side of trees/rocks in the Southern Hemisphere and on the opposite side (the one which gets least sunlight) in the Northern. Really though, if you can’t work out where the sun is, you probably shouldn’t be out there unchaperoned!

FALL OF THE LAND: Always keep an eye out for ‘the lie of the land’ or the ‘fall of the land’, ie how it generally falls away to major (& minor) watersheds. Whenever you come to watercourses note well the direction the water is flowing and whether when you crossed them they were flowing from your left or your right. On your return trip they will be flowing in the opposite direction. You don’t really need a map: you make a map in your head as you go along, ie noting what are the most prominent features (mountains, valleys etc) and how they are related to each other. None of the early explorers had a map (or any sophisticated navigational tools), yet they found their way across continents (and back). They knew how to use their head. Learn how to use yours. My advice is PRACTICE walking in a single large river valley. The more the stream meanders the better. This will teach you how to ‘read’ (the ‘lie’ or the ‘fall’) of the land.

SHELTER: You can survive for a very long time indeed so long as you have water, probably two months with water alone. There have even been examples of people surviving for well over a week without any water at all, so don’t panic WHEN you get lost. Bombard deliberately paddled a liferaft across the Atlantic drinking salt water all the way. Poon Lim was on a hatch cover with no fresh water for 146 days. Warmth and shelter when you are not moving are the most important survival ingredients. Be able to create a cosy dry shelter, and if possible a fire to keep you warm at night. A simple lean-to (eg against a tree, or a three legged shelter made from tying three long branches together is good) covered with whatever forest debris you can find (the more the merrier) will keep out most of even the worst rain. Obviously the closed (pointed) end should face directly into the wind and the open end towards the fire. Practise this next time you are in the bush. In this regard a poncho is better than a raincoat, as a simple 5’x7’ (1.5x2.1m) poncho can be made into a number of cosy simple shelters. The best way I have found is to pin one of the long sides to the ground in the windward direction and tie the centre of the other long side to a tree. The two short sides should now drape along the ground forming wings, so that you are sheltered on three sides. There should then be room to sit up or lie down out of the wind and rain. If you light a fire about 4’ (1.2) metres in front of the tree (the other side from your shelter) you should be very cosy all night in just shirtsleeves so long as you have that cheery fire. You may need to gather a lot of wood before dark, so get busy. It is always coldest and miserablest just before the dawn: you don’t want to be short then! An emergency mylar ‘space blanket’ can be used just the same way as a poncho. You can wrap yourself in a second, so two is a good idea (and some dental floss!)

RULES OF THUMB: I have already mentioned one of these, ie that the width of a finger held at arm’s length between the sun and the horizon equals about a quarter hour. This is a very useful rule if the sun is westering, you have too far (perhaps) to go, and you may need to make camp. It is always better to make camp early than carry on walking into the dark (unless you are VERY sure of your destination, and that there eg are no vertical abandoned mine ventilation shafts in your area). EARLY means in sufficient time to make a shelter for the night, gather enough wood to last you through the night, get a fire going…if you have the wherewithal, the makings of a cuppa, or something to eat might also exercise some time. It is MUCH better to give up and admit you are NOT going to make it today and just prepare to enjoy your night in the bush. If you DO find yourself walking in the dark; & I once walked most of the night searching for a lost hunter, which is when my old friend Ray Quinney taught me THIS trick: in the dark you cannot see out of the front of your eyes: the centre of your retina is for day vision (cones), but the periphery of your retina (rods) are for NIGHT vision. Therefore you need to TRAIN yourself to look out the sides of your eyes. It takes a bit of practice to do this without getting a cricked neck, but it IS worthwhile. Sweeping your gaze back and forward across your path, paying careful attention to what you see out the sides of your eyes is the trick! Once you start doing this, you will be able to walk on a dark, moonless night without bumping into things. Which reminds me, did you realise that in the past, before there were street lights, flashlights, etc all important public events were held on nights when there was a full moon – because then folks would be able to get to them? Think public meetings, country dances, weddings, etc. Another vision trick you need to teach yourself is how to ignore focussing on close objects. One of the reasons you cannot make out the fall of the land (or where game is hiding in the bush, etc) is because your brain has been trained to pay much closer attention to near objects (trees etc), than to the surface of the ground further away whilst ignoring intermediate objects. You will have to train your eyes to look through all the irrelevant closer detail to best make out the fall of the land, or whether that IS a sambar stag standing over there behind that bush! You might like to practice this by trying to look through a paling fence as you pass by it: you actually can see quite clearly through the gaps in the fence if you are NOT focussing on the fence. Try it! Then practice up the bush, ignoring the wood AND the trees!

Another useful ‘rule of thumb’ is one which you can use to estimate the distance away of an object, the height of a tree or other prominence, the width of a river, etc. You must form a right angled triangle with two equal sides. You can do this by breaking a branch so that when you hold it (eg upright) at arm’s length you can tilt it downwards so it will just touch your eye. (DON’T touch your eye, stupid!) If you want to measure the height of a tree or the width of a river etc, you walk back, holding the stick at 90 degrees to your outstretched arm until the stick (or the far bank) is exactly ‘touching’ the top of the tree (far bank, etc). Then the distance to the top of the tree is exactly the distance from the tree (or the distance across the river is identical to the distance you have come along the river. I MAY have to draw a diagram…

WALKING IN CIRCLES: Every human being who was ever born has one leg shorter than the other, so get over it. You are NOT perfect. As a result of this asymmetry, if you blindfold a person and ask them to walk in a straight line in a paddock, they will always walk in a circle. You have to TRAIN yourself to walk in a straight line. There are a couple of tricks to keep in mind. Work out/choose three things in a straight line: yourself and two objects in the direction you wish to travel. Walk towards the nearest object but just before you get to it choose a further object than the second one in the same line. Just keep repeating the procedure.

MAPS: These 25K Vicmaps are GREAT and value @ $8 ea: http://services.land.vic.gov.au/maps/content/topo30wizard They can be viewed with full georeferenceing functionality (ie GPS, etc) with this great App on your phone, tablet etc: http://www.avenza.com/pdf-maps You need never get lost and can safely plan your next adventure.

30/01/2017: Restore Pdf Maps Functionality: I recommended this App back in Nov ’14: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/gps-phone-apps-25k-vicmaps/ Many folks have probably noticed that their Pdf Maps App has updated to Avenza and that now they are only able to open three maps for free instead of an unlimited number of maps, and that Avenza would like them to pay over $30 per year to restore the functionality they had before!

As I understand it, Pdf Maps (version 1.7.3) is free software – indeed it seems that its functionality may well have been created by someone else ie TerraGo – see this Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geospatial_PDF. In any case you can download it for free from a variety of sources, eg https://allfreeapk.com/avenza-maps,407396/

This Youtube (and others) tells you how to uninstall Avenza and put Pdf Maps in its place. You have to be sure to cancel the ‘Update’ function so this doesn’t happen to you again. Once again you will be able to open an unlimited number of Pdf maps for free - such as can be bought from: http://services.land.vic.gov.au/maps/imf/search/Topo30Front.jsp some of which you may need to walk The Upper Yarra Track, for example: http://finnsheep.com/THE%20UPPER%20YARRA%20WALKING%20TRACK.htm

Happy mapping!

26/10/2015: Hiking Apps: This review is a good start to exploring Apps which can help with your Outdoors activities. I would certainly agree with their recommendations about Backcountry Navigator for example which is wonderful in NZ (in association with the fre NZ Topo Maps). The First Aid App could come in handy, but I hope it won’t - as could the SAS Survival App. Maybe you can have fun with Star Chart? I also have installed Pdf Maps which is great (in association with Vicmaps) for navigating in the bush in Victoria, Cool Reader which has brought me many hours of pleasure. I also have a Music and Video App for entertainment in the wild: http://www.australiangeographic.com.au/travel/destinations/2014/08/best-hiking-and-camping-apps-of-2014/

24/03/2015: NZ TOPO: This is a great App for hiking in NZ: BackCountry Navigator TOPO GPS at $12.99: http://backcountrynavigator.com/new-zealand-topographic-maps/ You can go to the map page (http://www.nztopomaps.com./) on the App and colour in the (eg contiguous) bits of map you want to download. Afterwards it works offline with your GPS. IT WAS SO EASY AND WILL SAVE LIVES! Why doesn’t someone do this (as easily and economically) for Victoria? I have downloaded most of Fiordland in preparation for a foray soon on the South Coast Track which runs West around the coast at the bottom of the South Island from approx Tuatapere. We MAY get as far as Westies Hut at Big River (which is in a sea cave!), but anyway we WILL have fun! You can zoom on the area yourself: just come across the bottom of the South Island (westerly on the nztopomap above) until you run out of roads (Tuatapere will be the nearest town a little to the North-East of there). You will pick up the South Coast track as it wends its way around Te Waewae Bay, past Port Craig, the Percy Burn (world’s largest timber viaduct made from NSW spotted gum!), the Wairaurahiri River, the Waitutu River, to the Big River (Westies Hut) at the mouth of Lake Hakapoua. If you are a little lazy (maybe us) you can catch a jet-boat down (or up!) the Wairaurahiri River. Bookings for this, the Waitutu Lodge, Port Craig Lodge & etc, eg here: http://www.wildernessjet.co.nz/

29/05/2016: Amazing Mobile Apps: Altimeter, Barometer and Thermometer: Accurate Altimeter: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.arlabsmobile.altimeterfree&hl=en & Smart Thermometer: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.colortiger.thermo&hl=en (also does humidity and air pressure).

28/05/2016: Pedometer App: Much cheaper than a ‘Fitbit’, etc. Look on Google Play. There is any number of them free. I am using Walklogger. Your data might look something like this (if you spent Sunday and Monday in bed – copied this image from Google). Michael Mosley’s great book http://www.theultralighthiker.com/this-book-may-save-your-life/ which will make you well again (as you may never have been) recommends 10,000 steps (plus the diet) a target which will keep you quite busy; it will certainly change your routines if you are to achieve it, but it will also get you ready for longer multi-day hikes: The DSouth Coast Tarck Fiordland NZ beckons: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/westies-hut/ . The alternatives are ill-health and death; not much of a choice really. Surprising really how many people are determined to commit suicide by mouth!

27/10/2014: Mobile Phones: so many things to know…When buying one you really need to check out the frequencies covered, eg it must have 3G = 850 to function on Telstra’s nextG network, which offers superior connectivity in rural areas. Nearly ALL Samsung phones have an external antenna connection point under the back cover (you MAY have to drill, or the antenna/patch lead suppliers may supply a pre-drilled cover, eg http://telcoantennas.com.au/site/samsung-galaxy-s4-patch-lead-and-back-cover-combo ). You also need to really check all the phone features (eg here: http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_i9190_galaxy_s4_mini-5375.php) BEWARE: most of the dual SIM phones do NOT offer nextG connectivity. Bizarrely, some (quite high-end) phones do not have wi-fi, GPS or a radio & etc. To utilise the excellent Avenza Pdf maps app, you will need a phone above Android @ 4.1 (some are upgradeable) AND a certain amount of (internal) memory. This IS an excellent App for bushwalking, 4WDriving & etc as it allows you to download (eg) Vicmaps & utilise GPS on them. It IS also possible to convert other maps to GPS AND to ‘geo-reference’ maps which aren’t (More about this later). DUAL SIM is useful particularly if you want pre-paid DATA, but don’t want to lug around an additional device (which you have to charge separately). These folk (http://www.magic-sim.com.au/) have an add-on dual Sim gadget which fits most phones (for less than $50) which will allow you to do this (or have two providers eg Telstr a AND Optus). Very few phones fit in your pocket nowadays (ie are less than 5”/125mm long) ; rare exceptions are the Samsung Galaxy Y, Ace, and S4 Mini.

21/02/2016: Moir’s Guide South: The Great Southern Lakes and Fiords’: There is something about dreaming of the wild places – and these are some of the wildest places on earth. This is an indispensable companion to bushwalking/tramping in New Zealand. Even if it remains forever a ‘coffee table’ book, do buy it anyway. If you have a bent for exploration/ searching for the elusive moose as I do, it will suggest to you some interesting routes you may essay, eg: Supper Cove to Herrick Creek; Jane Burn to Gardiner Burn, Big River to Cromarty, Slaughter Burn to Lake Poteriteri… Available eg: https://alpineclub.org.nz/product/moirs-south/

24/11/2015: goTenna: 52 grams which keeps you in touch with other members of your party by texting with your phone, eg if they become separated. Works up to 6 kilometres even when there is no phone service. I think this would be a good option for Della and me when hiking just in case. We carry whistles, but whilst Della can here mine, I can't hear hers. It is much lighter also than carrying 2-way radios and messages are less garbled by text (when you are deaf like me)! Many have an epirb or satellite phone for emergencies, but this lightweight device would be useful if you just become separated where it is not an emergency. It would also be great for contacting each other (eg to save money, or if your are in a foreign city where you might not have a plan). Hunters (and others) might also find the device useful because it doesn't make any noise. Two for US$199: http://www.gotenna.com/index

19/11/2015: Dual sim adapter for mobile phones http://www.magic-sim.com/ You can have a separate dedicated data account to your call account, or services with two different carriers for approx $37. Or have two sims active at the same time with this $84 device: http://www.magic-sim.com/product/id/44/GoodTalk_DUAL_SIM_DEVICE_-_2_SIMS_ACTIVE_AT_THE_SAME_TIME!.html Add one of these to this: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/cheapest-mobile-phone-service/

18/11/2015: Why have a mobile phone plan when you can have a telephone number (with lots of calls for $5/month via Voip and can buy data for as little as $50/year for 5Gb? Add: Acrobits Softphone App (Play Store = $6.99); Plus: eg https://www.pennytel.com.au/personal-voip/plans/talk-till-you-drop $5/month includes DID phone number; Plus:https://www.telstra.com.au/tablets/prepaid-for-tablets $50/year for 5Gb. $140 for two years for 16Gb; Sim starter kit $2. All up less than $10/month. Compare that to your present plan! And did you know you could have a Telstra pre-paid mobile service for $70 per year? https://www.telstra.com.au/mobile-phones/prepaid-mobiles/offers-and-rates

10/10/2014: Camera Phones: I see Lumia (1020) has now included a 41 Megapixel camera on its latest phone (compare Samsung Galaxy K with 20Mp & 10x zoom: http://www.samsung.com/au/consumer/mobile-phone/smartphone/smartphone/SM-C1150ZKAXSA & Samsung-Galaxy-S4-Zoom with 16 Mp & 10x zoom) ). It won’t be long before the equivalent of 100 Megs is exceeded. The days of the camera ARE numbered. Likewise most other devices. Samsung Galaxy S5 ‘Active’ is waterproof to 3’. The Xolo Win Q900s is set to break the 100 gram barrier, & etc, etc. I need to reappraise my use of such devices. I was turned off by a 7” Samsung Galaxy Tab I bought which I NOW believe has a number of weird faults (I HAD thought that there was some incompatibility between me and touch screens, but I have been playing with Della’s Galaxy Note 1 - and it WORKS). She tried my Tab and encountered the self-same problems I have with it. When hiking (for eg) if there IS no service (or wifi) these features can be turned off. The screen can be set to black and white for ebook reading (to save power). You can turn the GPS off (and on when you need a fix) and just carry the phone as a camera in ‘sleep’ mode. I need to see how long the battery will last in these circumstances. I see I can buy (spare) batteries for her Note (43 grams ea) from eBay for $6ea (delivered!), and an external charger. If one can scale back power usage when hiking and carry a few spare batteries, (and/or figure a lightweight way to recharge them) it might be a viable alternative to a whole host of other devices. You can also now buy waterproof cases for a song! I am (also) playing with loading some topo maps (and the GPS feature) to see how this goes. It is hard to find them for Victoria, but I HAVE found a set,and an android programme which will use them and a way of adding georeferencing so that they work with GPS (mre later about maps) http://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/smartphones/nokia-lumia-1020

Nokia above, Samsung below.

Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini is adequate for my purposes. It can contain all the maps I need; the GPS and Avenza PDF Maps works well on it; I can play a little music or read a book. It has an 8 megapixel

camera. A spare battery for it weighs about 30 grams. The phone itself is only a tad over 100 grams. You can get a waterproof case for it which weighs about 15 grams.

27/02/2016: Mobile Phone Battery Life: Here’s some good advice. Another important point: choose a phone which has a removable battery such as my Galaxy S4 Mini or Della’s Galaxy K – with a 10x optical zoom! We always carry a couple of spare batteries on longer hikes – and a solar charger http://www.theultralighthiker.com/charging/ – I went for the MPJ spare batteries because they already have 50% more energy than the proprietary ones yet still fit in the phone: http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/25/technology/personaltech/tips-and-myths-about-extending-smartphone-battery-life.html?hp&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&clickSource=story-heading&module=second-column-region&region=top-news&WT.nav=top-news&_r=0

GADGETS:

27/11/2016: Cool Brother is watching you: Orbi Prime: The First 360 Video Recording Eyewear: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/orbi-prime-the-first-360-video-recording-eyewear-camera-travel#/

18/11/2016: The Rolls Royce of Backcountry Trowels. PS: I used to think these doohickies were pretty silly when I had a pair of heels would mostly do the same sort of thing, and had done for decades – then I began thinking of digging for survival water sources, purifying the water found & etc. I decided that it might well be 13 grams well spent: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/suluk-46-tark-trowel?referer=EJ89BQ 7 http://www.suluk46.com/

Suluk 46 Tark Trowels

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/sawyer-water-filter/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dehydrated-water/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/rivers-in-the-sky-never-die-of-thirst/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/survival-still/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/water-filter/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/collecting-water/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-egg-ring-ultralight-wood-burner-stove/

18/11/2016: Aloksak make really great waterproof to 200 metres snaplock bags. This one is even big enough to put your rifle in (great for canoeing/boating/hunting trips. It is the only waterproof gun bag I know of: http://www.survival-pax.com/aLOKSAK-Bags-Extra-Large.html Of course the smaller ones are great for your phone, camera etc.

aLOKSAK - 12x44"

07/06/2016: Waterproof Notepads: If you spend much time at all outdoors, sometime the need to make a note in the rain will occur. Then you will need some waterproof paper such as http://www.riteintherain.com/ (since 1916!) or http://www.myaquanotes.com/ etc. You will also need a light pen such as a waterproof pen refill http://www.riteintherain.com/blue-ink-refill-all-weather-pen or a Fisher’s Space Pen refill http://www.spacepen.com/which will even write under water or in space!

15/06/2016: Ultralight Pen: World’s lightest pen? Perhaps. Anyway at @ 1 gram and for US$3 you have a 2 ½’ (6.5cm) pen which will write on practically any surface, even upside down or under water or in space.

Fisher Space Pen’s Sealed Pressurized Ink Cartridge: Performs in temperatures from -30ºF to +250ºF, underwater, in zero gravity, at any angle–even upside down! The ultimate in dependability! The choice of ski patrols, search and rescue teams, law enforcement agencies, armed forces, and everyone who demands reliability in a writing instrument.

The PR Cartridge is the fat one in the middle. The U Cartridge is the skinny one on the top and bottom. When it arrives it will be long like the top image shows. It is made this way to fit several different pen barrels. If you need it to be shorter, just flex it back and forth at the break point and it will separate, leaving you the correct length.

Cartridge. Please note: the U Cartridges contain a much smaller amount of ink, they write about 1200 feet depending on your writing style, as compared to the regular PR Cartridge which should write more than 12,000 feet depending on style and surface.

POINT SIZES - Fine contains a .9mm Ball - Medium contains a 1.1mm Ball - Bold contains a 1.3mm Ball. Comes in 9 different colours. The ‘U’ refill costs about US$3: http://www.spacepen.com/cartridge.aspx Use with: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/waterproof-notepads/

30/09/2014: Ultra Light DOG LEASH (8.5 grams): Mini ‘D’ carabiner 2.8 grams + 2mm spectra cord www.zpacks.com/accessories/carabiner.shtml Sometimes we have to walk on a ‘road’ aways or keep the dogs from ‘hunting’ some other pesky hiker, particularly in NPs (where the JRs have every right to be - they are Australians TOO, and pay all their taxes on dog food, etc!) Lately, the prevalence of unexpected fox baits makes getting the dogs under control important too, so these lightweight leashes are the answer. I KNOW I could have made them lighter with (black) dyneema, but I have run out of it. Great product: there is even a flat kind, good for shoe laces too perhaps.

08/10/2014: Hiking Music #2: Sony ICD-UX (eg) 534F digital voice recorder includes an alarm clock @ 58 grams inc one AAA battery + hundreds of hours of music! http://www.sony.co.uk/support/en/product/ICD-UX534F/downloads/soundorganizer15

EREADERS: 26/09/2014: You need to snap up the ‘New’ Sony ebook reader as Sony is soon to cease production. This will mean that you can only buy ‘propriet ary’ ebook readers which create some difficulty if you want to load ‘borrowed’ books on them. This is a really great reader (163 grams), and is still available for @$100 new. It will take a 32 gig card. If you want an MP3 player as well you will have to source the older model second-hand (as I did). I will probably buy 2-3 of these (while they last) as I doubt anyone is going to produce a better reader in the future: they have all moved to using ‘bought’ books…

23/09/2014: Kobo Mini: I just bought one of these for hiking. Without the snap-on decorative back it weighs 117 grams, (48 grams less than my Sony) so I will certainly choose it as a dedicated hiking book which I can leave in my pack all the time. The ‘Mini’ has a 4 gig micro SD card inside, but only uses @ 2 of this – though this too can be changed. It is possible to upgrade the storage (say to 32 gigs - worth a try) so that it will fit all your books. The Kobo Mini has wifi and a micro browser so you can surf the Net one tab at a time, check your email, Facebook, shares etc. With the wifi turned off they claim about two months battery life, so PERFECT for the trail. This model is no longer for sale, so I suggest you snap one up off eBay (which is what I did) pretty soon, before they are completely unavailable: http://blog.the-ebook-reader.com/2013/10/08/how-to-expand-internal-storage-of-kobo-ebook-readers-video/ & http://www.mobileread.mobi/forums/showthread.php?t=209122

CHARGING: 06/08/2014: This guy has some interesting Peltiers (and circuits). It seems to me that with them one ought to be able to construct a USB (or just a AA) battery charger warmed by one’s fire, and cooled by a Platypus bottle (which you every so often refill with fresh, cooler water) instead of a fan (the ‘normal’ set-up – and much heavier and more elaborate). You could simply attach the Peltier to the bottle with a couple of rubber bands. As I almost always have a fire when camping out, (even in those tiresome, trendy ‘National Parks’ where such wickedness is verboten), this should enable me to recharge electrical devices (with minimal weight) when out in the bush. PS I always in addition, just for the insouciant wickedness of it camp anywhere else than in the ‘designated camping areas’: http://www.customthermoelectric.com/powergen.html?gclid=CLTl4JPpxrMCFchbpQodszYAow

Seebeck Effect

This little guy weighs approx 85 grams and includes a 2200 Mah battery so should have enough grunt to recharge your phone/ebook reader without itself needing recharging from the sun which takes about a day – you can also use it to recharge a couple of AAA batteries fro your Fenix HL10 torch or similar with a USB battery charger weighing another 20 grams or so: http://www.bushnell.com/hunting/outdoor-technology/powersync/solarwrap-mini

18/10/2016: Powerfilm USB +AA Solar Charger:

I fixed the broken wire I had in this unit yesterday. You should never allow a solar charger to flap uncontrollably in a heavy wind! I can see that a lot of reviewers of such units have had them fail. I suspect excessive flexing is the cause. I have mounted it to my Zpacks Blast (Zero) pack with some Lineloks and Dyneema. This is a very light option but will prove too inconvenient in practice, so I will be switching them for plastic buckles and 1 cm webbing today. Then I will quickly be able to move it out of the way when I want something out of my pack.

With the batteries straight out of the storage drawer (so not quite charged) it happily charged my Samsung galaxy 4 Mini (1900 mAh battery) in this configuration at 1% a minute in dappled sunlight (cloudy Spring 20C day) yesterday.

As configured the unit weighs 176 grams including batteries (ie minus the ‘tail’). My Bushnell Mini Solarwrap weighs 116 grams including the AA/AAA battery charger, so an increase of 60 grams. For that 60 grams you get more storage (and you can always have a couple of extra charged AAs for additional storage - at 30 grams each). Bushnell do not quote their storage capacity but I suspect somewhere between 1500 and 2000 mAhs. The Powerfilm unit also has 50% more solar cells and they are clearly much more efficient. The Bushnell unit says it will take 10 hours of sunlight to charge its internal battery. The Powerfilm unit says it will take about 4 hours to charge the two 2000 MAh batteries it comes with, so it has2 ½ times more muscle. Well worth the 60 grams.

Many reviewers of such units clearly have no understanding whatsoever of how such a unit works. Many return them saying they will not charge their iphones & etc. Now electricity (like water) will not run ‘uphill’. If you have a larger battery to charge and it is already filled to over the capacity of the charging unit it will not charge at all.

Another delusion is that the unit should fully charge the appliance to be charged. If you view the two connected batteries as a full water tank connected (on the level) to an empty water tank you will understand that the water will only flow until they are both half full. It is the same with batteries. A full 2400 charge in the charging unit will (in the absence of sunlight) charge the appliance’s 2400 mAh battery to 1200 mAhs ie 50%. When the phone etc has run down some more, it will charge it some more, eg to 40%...and so on.

Notwithstanding the above, in the Powerfilm unit, if the two AA batteries are fully charged and the unit is in full sun it has a capacity above the 2000 or 24000 mAhs the batteries supply so it will charge a battery which is larger (eg 3500 mAhs).

I swapped out the standard 2,000 mAh batteries http://www.theultralighthiker.com/eneloops-rechargeable-batteries/ for the Eneloops Pro 2400mAh versions http://www.theultralighthiker.com/eneloop-pro-aaa-battery/ to give the unit a little more muscle. I also cut off the unnecessary ‘tail’ the unit (photo below) comes with saving 10.5 grams. A new unit may weigh even less than this one.

You can charge AAA batteries if you carry a couple of AA to AA A converters.

25/02/2017: Ultralight Hiking USB cables, etc: This is my tiny bag of cables and other electronic goodies. The cable (17 grams) is only 6″ (15 cm) long and comes with interchangeable tips (5 grams each). Shown USB, micro USB (x2) and Sat Phone charger plug (comes with, so total = 27 grams) – this will get all my hiking devices charged on the trail: phone, camera, torches http://www.theultralighthiker.com/11-gram-rechargeable-head-torch/, sat phone, sat messenger, or etc). Also see below it a 5 gram white USB/Micro USB SD (& micro SD) card reader – great for sharing files on the trail (eg someone else’s photos. Also a couple of spare micro SD cards and adapter/s and a 3 gram case for extra photo etc storage – just in case I get the opportunity to make a movie about Fiordland moose! Note to self: I can save 4 grams here! The solar set-up below can recharge a couple of AA/AAA batteries and all these devices as I walk along.

NB: Solar charging http://www.theultralighthiker.com/powerfilm-usb-aa-solar-charger/ (well charging in general) did not work at all well at high altitude (as on my Everest Base Camp trip), though it works fine at home in the Victorian mountains (never above 2,000 metres), and usually much less – there will be a future post about this, but to cut a long story short; everyone’s batteries discharged (even when not in use) at at least twice the normal rate in Nepal, eg: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/i-saw-below-me-that-golden-valley/

Weights:

Cable inc sat phone tip 17 grams

2 x micro USB tips 5 grams ea

USB/Micro USB reader 5 grams

3 micros SD cards, adapter, case 5 grams

Cuben stuff sack 2 grams

Total 39 grams.

Solar pack setup. See also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/attaching-tie-downs-to-your-pack/

I bought the cable and adapter tips from these folk: http://www.tekkeon.com/products.html

Some other Tekkeon tips: Adapter Tips: http://www.tekkeon.com/productcart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=15

They also sell this interesting AA charger: http://www.tekkeon.com/products-tekcharge1580.html 125 grams Uses AA alkaline or rechargeable batteries TekCharge MP1580 doubles as a battery charger, so you can charge your rechargeable NiMH or lithium batteries as needed.

They also have a number of power banks such as this one: http://www.tekkeon.com/products-tekcharge1820-specs.html 125 grams for 4800 mAh

This is a reasonable weight for a power bank (I will also have a later post about them), but my spare battery for my Samsung Galaxy S4 camera weighs 35 grams for 2900 mAh, so about 15 grams per each amp hour. At that rate of conversion a 4800 mAh power bank should weigh less than 90 grams! I need to walk around the city sometime with an electonic scales in my posket weighing these ubiquitous little guys. I have done very poorly searching eg for ‘lightest power bank’ on the net. Good luck with that! But, if you have better information, please let me know.

I figure you need a minimum of approx. twice the capacity of your phone, so likely over 6000mAh. This would need to weigh (much) less than the above solar setup or this lighter version, the Bushnell Solarwrap Mini: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/charging/ which can be cut down by about 7 grams and still attach to your pack (as above) so will weigh < 80 grams for 1,000 mAh, plus whatever the sun delivers!

11/03/2015: CHARGING: This little guy weighs approx 85 grams and includes a 2200 Mah battery so should have enough grunt to recharge your phone/ebook reader without itself needing recharging from the sun which takes about a day: http://www.bushnell.com/hunting/outdoor-technology/powersync/solarwrap-mini You can also use it to recharge a couple of AAA batteries for your Fenix HL10 torch or similar with a USB AA/AAA battery charger weighing another 20 grams or so: http://premium.aliexpress.com/au/item/Ni-MH-AA-AAA-Rechargeable-Battery-USB-Charger-Best-Selling/32264862894.html?currencyType=AUD&af=ppc&isdl=y&src=Google&albch=Google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&cv=1020800000008006&ptsid=1020000000012141&crea=56546947201&plac=&netw=g&device=c&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&cv=1020000000012141&gclid=COLTyPnancQCFdckvQodkqMAqA

Image result for usb aa battery charger

26/05/2016: Clear PVC backpack Lid for Solar Charger: I have this wonderful little solar chargerhttp://www.bushnell.com/hunting/outdoor-technology/powersync/solarwrap-mini which is useful for battery back-up as it contains a 220 Ma battery, and will recharge tired batteries. The trouble with such a device on the trail is that it is hard to deploy whilst walking, particularly if it rains a bit (electronics really hate water). You can attach it with a bit of string through the hole one end, and drill two holes through the end clips so that it can be attached at the other end. This will allow you to drape it down or over your backpack.

For a further modest investment you can place it and the item to be charged in one of Sea to Summit’s map cases which have enough attachment points to obviate this. I am going to make a PVC lid myself (using a waterproof zip which exactly fits my backpack (so it will stay in place) and which is easily removable when you want to get something out of your backpack.

I have the Bushnell Solarwrap Mini Dimensions: Weight: oz 3.1 oz, Size: in 4.3" x 1.25" Deployed Length: in 18.25" Nonetheless it looks like it will fit in the Medium map case with the ‘tail folded over: http://www.seatosummit.com.au/products/outdoor/tpu-guide-map-cases/ (about A$30) You may find something else suitable on eBay cheaper but most do not have attachment points both t=ends.

TPU Guide Map Case S	212 x 302mm	56g
TPU Guide Map Case M	282 x 332mm	78g
TPU Guide Map Case L	332 x 430mm	102g

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/charging/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/power-from-heat/

21/07/2015: Power from Heat: The Candle Charger can power your phone in a blackout ‘When the power is cut, modern life is thrown into disarray. But thanks to a new project you may not have to worry about your smartphone dying. The Candle Charger is described as an "indoor power plant for smartphones," providing USB charging capabilities with just a candle and five ounces of water.’ http://www.gizmag.com/candle-charger/38461/ Also see: http://www.gizmag.com/flamestower-fire-charger/29290/ I had long ago seen that you could buy the Peltiers here: Peltier + circuit http://www.customthermoelectric.com/powergen.html?gclid=CLTl4JPpxrMCFchbpQodszYAow

plus the circuits to stabilise output voltage and provide USB power. I was speculating about simply attaching one to a platypus bottle (of cold water) and sitting it near the fire so that its two sides had different temperatures. Some current must be created. I can see that a metal tongue which will get one side hotter without warming the other side is an improvement on this, but at 198 grams! My simple set-up would weigh perhaps 50 grams. Still on my –To-Do- list. If there are others out there with a little more electronic nous than me who want to get into this, please message me.

The Candle Charger

The FlameStower – where there's fire, there's electricity

The Flamestower

01/04/2015: ENELOOPS: If you haven’t discovered these wonderful rechargeable batteries, you are in for a TREAT. Unlike conventional’ rechargeables they maintain their charge almost indefinitely. The batteries are low self-discharge NiMH, which lose their charge much more slowly than ordinary NiMH batteries; 10% in the first year, compared to about 4% of their charge per day of storage (for conventionals). Some of these little guys can be recharged up to 3000 times! Sanyo also have a nifty fast charger which recharges four AA/AAAs in a few minutes. All avail Dick Smith stores: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eneloop

02/11/2015: Eneloop Pro AAA Battery: Things just keep getting better…This is an improvement to their white 750 mAh battery (Recharge 1,000 times). This one is 950 mAh, is still 85% after one year and recharges 500+ times, but it is nearly one-third more available energy! Available Dick Smith, etc.

17/09/2015: Surprising Treasure Hidden Within A Nine Volt Battery: 6 x AAAA batteries: http://survivaltek.com/?p=4535

03/03/2017: Backcountry Radio: Most radios on offer will just not cut it at all once you get a few miles from the broadcast tower. This little gem has amazing sensitivity and weill pull in stations from all over the world. I have owned this little guy for over 10 years (and it looks like it). It has been everywhere with me, provided me with countless hours of listening pleasure (I’m not sure whether I have ever changed the two Duracell batteries) and kept me in touch with world affairs, weather & etc. it is the Grundig Mini 300 World band Receiver at 127 grams bare and takes two AA batteries.

It has now been replaced by the 400 mini weighing 91 grams using two AAA batteries, a significant weight saving. Here is its Amazon listing: Pricey at US$129.99 but it works, is durable, so it is worth it. https://www.amazon.com/Grundig-Compact-Shortwave-Digital-Display/dp/B001QTXKFG

Grundig Mini GM400 Super Compact AM/FM Shortwave Radio with Digital Display (NGM400B)

More details: AM/FM-stereo and shortwave bands
Analog tuner, with digital display
Digital display shows frequency, time, and alarm activation
Clock and alarm function

Product Description

The ETON Mini GM400 Super Compact AM/FM shortwave radio features AM/FM-stereo and shortwave bands and an analog tuner with digital display. The digital display shows frequency, time, and alarm activation.Clock and alarm functions are also included. It runs on two AAA batteries (not included). Other features include: 3.5 mm headphone output; telescopic antenna for FM and SW reception; internal ferrite bar antenna for AM reception; DC input (5V). Includes: owner’s manual, warranty card, carrying case, and earphones. Dimensions: 2.75 inches x 4.3 inches x .472 inches.

From the Manufacturer

M400

Grundig Super Compact AM/FM Shortwave Radio with Digital Display M400

A powerful shortwave radio with awesome features!

Super compact and light weight, the Mini 400 features AM/FM and shortwave radio frequencies. The analog tuner and easy-to-read digital display completes the simplicity of enjoying shortwave listening. Extend the telescopic antenna for better FM and SW reception and plug in a pair of headphones (included) to get a personal experience. It even has a clock and alarm function.

It's portable and versatile

The Mini 400 is a super compact radio that is perfect for all your adventures. Small enough to slip into a shirt pocket or backpack you can take it on your world travels or your daily hike. It keeps you informed and entertained with Shortwave as well as AM/FM and includes a sleep timer with alarm so you can wake to your favorite radio station. Digital display shows frequency, time and alarm activation. It even includes a telescopic antenna for FM and SW reception.

Side View

Anywhere is your playground with the MINI 400

It has an internal ferrite bar antenna for crisp and clear AM reception, anytime, anywhere. It has dual power sources: 2 AAA batteries (not included) and included DC input (5V). So the MINI 400 is the perfect companion for wild adventures or simple use at home.

Logos

Features:

AM/FM-stereo and shortwave bands
Analog tuner, with digital display
Digital display shows frequency, time, and alarm activation
Clock and alarm function
3.5 mm headphone output
Telescopic antenna for FM and SW reception
Internal ferrite bar antenna for AM reception
Power source: 2 AAA batteries (not included)
DC input (5V)
Includes: owner's manual, warranty card, carrying case, earphones
Another offering: https://countycomm.com/collections/radio/products/countycomm-gp-5-ssb-general-purpose-radio 85 grams plus 3 AA batteries.

04/03/2014: My ‘Clearviewers’ arrived and they certainly ARE the solution to having difficulty taking photos with digital cameras. I think they make a better viewfinder than conventional cameras. http://www.clearviewer.com/Products.html

A functional ultralight camera-pod: (6 grams): http://www.suluk46.com/products%20%20-%20P16%20A%20Pod.html

10/08/2016: 4 Gram String Tripod: Now that you can buy pocket cameras with 30X zoom such as the Sony HX80 (18.2 megapixels, 30X zoom, 245 grams http://www.sony.com/electronics/cyber-shot-compact-cameras/dsc-hx80) you may think you need a tripod for those really long shots you can now take (in good light). If you use hiking poles you can make/buy a gadget which attaches to your pole so it can function as a tripod. You can do the same thing with a gun (See:http://www.theultralighthiker.com/camera-glassing/)

If neither of these are going to be handy, you can tie an approx 6’ (1.8m) length of string to a small bolt the size which fits in the tripod socket of your camera (almost always 1/4”-20 UNC) then screw it in to the camera. If you stand on the string with one foot and pull the string taut so that your eye is level with the viewfinder/screen you will be able to hold the camera almost perfectly still just as if you were using a 5’6” (160cm) tripod! Neat, aye? You can instead tie a loop in the end of the string to hold it down with your toes. This same trick would also work if you want to hold your gun steady eg for a long shot without a rest.

03/08/2016: Rubber Band Selfie Stick: Sick of those out of focus selfies with the end of an arm at the bottom? All you need is a large rubber band or a hair tie and a forked stick you pick up in the bush. Loop one end around one end of the camera then around the stick (as shown) then around the other end of the camera - and away you go!

16/07/2016: Camera Glassing: Pocket cameras have come to have much better resolution than expensive binoculars. As an example my Nikon Coolpix S7000 with 20X optical zoom and superb anti-shake technology will bring very distant objects into sharp resolution. You can also make use of its additional digital zoom. I had been having trouble reading the eartag numbers on our sheep to record their lambing details. I had bought a new pair of 12X binox, even a 16X monocular but they are completely surpassed by my camera – and it is so easy.

Instead of glassing those distant slopes with a pair of heavy binox you should try a pocket digital camera. Mine weighs 160 grams including battery and SD card. I notice Sony now have a new pocket model with 30X zoom and still under 240 grams! You can make up an adapter to slip into the barrel of your gun to enhance stability, or you can use a couple of rubber bands (see photos). See: http://briangreen.net/2011/07/trekking-pole-camera-mounts.html

04/09/2015: New Camera: Thanks to my children I received a new (birthday) pocket camera, a Nikon S7000 with 16 Megapixels and 20X zoom which weighs 162 grams complete with battery, micro sd card and wrist strap. I may now get a chance to take (& post) some snaps of astonishing things I sometimes see in the bush which I could never bring into clear enough resolution before. Here for example, is a pair of Yellow-tailed Black Cockies seen at sunset on our walk last night; (more to follow):

02/01/2016: Stick Pic: At $13.99 (& 11 grams!) I think this is almost indispensable if you want to fuel your narcissism (& who does not these days!) ‘Now you can finally be included in all of your trail photos. Be in your own shots or be joined by friends and family. This size #2 StickPic (see Additional Info tab) attaches to the tip of your pole. Use this fun little gadget for high and low angle backcountry photography. In less then ten seconds screw the adapter on to your camera and then attach to the trekking pole tip. Now you've created your very own selfie stick, which you can easily carry into the backcountry. This product is for users who already walk with hiking poles! Trail Tip: Works with a Gopro using their Tripod Adapter. You can also attach your smartphone, with an additional mount accessory. Standard 1/4-20 Camera-to-Tripod thread. Check that it fits the tip of your poles (or buy the best: GG’s LT4s!) http://gossamergear.com/hiking-pole-selfie-stickpic.html & http://thestickpic.com/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-poles-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/trout-fly-rod-conversion-for-hiking-pole/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hiking-poles/

20/05/2015: Ultralight spare glasses: http://i4ulenses.com/

18/11/2013: Aloksak make really great waterproof to 200 metres snaplock bags. This one is even big enough to put your rifle in (great for canoeing/boating/hunting trips. It is the only waterproof gun bag I know of: http://www.survival-pax.com/aLOKSAK-Bags-Extra-Large.html

01/12/2014: At LAST, a broken zipper FIXER: http://www.equipped.org/blog/?p=86

29/05/2015:

Smoothtalker passive pad

Boost signal 64 times: It is a delight to venture into the mountains far from ‘civilisation’; when we do however we don’t have to forego the opportunity of all contact. A carefully chosen antenna system will draw in mobile phone and internet connectivity to quite surprisingly remote places. We have two conjoined (with a balanced splitter/joiner) 6.5 Db fibreglass antennae such as these (https://telcoantennas.com.au/site/rfi-cdq2195-quick-removable-65dbi-bullbar-antenna) Joining two together like this increases the gain by about 3 Db (so to approx 9.5 Db). You should remember that each 3Db equals approximately a doubling of the signal, so that this arrangements represents an over eightfold increase in signal strength. We chose these antennae as they are the highest which will allow the vehicle into the garage without damaging them - else we would have chosen two 7.5 Db = 10.5 Db total. However, we CAN stow two 9 Db antennae (like these: (https://telcoantennas.com.au/site/rfi-cdq2199-quick-removable-9dbi-bullbar-antenna) under the tray, giving us 12 Db when we attach them (or four doublings ie sixteen times the signal strength!) It is important the antennae are connected to the splitter thence to the phone with the shortest possible and best co-axial cable. Antennae usually come with 5 metres of RG58U cable which loses .79 Db per metre, a total of 3.95 Db. If you can shorten this to 2.5 metres (you can!) of 1250 coax with a loss of .0675 Db/metre, you can reduce this loss to .16875 Db, or an effective gain of 3.78 Db (more than a doubling of the signal strength which you are likely losing right now!). (See https://telcoantennas.com.au/site/guide-antenna-cables-connectors & http://www.comnet.com.au/epages/shop.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/comnet/Categories/Cables/Cables_with_connectors/1250_Ultra_Low_Loss_Antenna_Cables) A patch lead which connects physically to your phone through one of the small connectors on the back (of all Samsung phones anyway if you take the cover off) will mean that you get ALL of this signal. It IS difficult to plug in though, easily broken and CAN damage the phone. Instead, for a loss of only .6Db you can connect with one of these passive pads (http://www.comnet.com.au/epages/shop.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/comnet/Products/CK589-AMD) which will hold any phone securely. There is a model which powers/charges the phone as you go along too. If you need even more gain, you can purchase a 16 Db ‘Yagi’ antennae (like a television antenna https://telcoantennas.com.au/site/rfi-16dbi-yagi-directional-antenna#) which you can mount on a telescopic pole. This would be a good antenna to use at home if you are in a very poor reception area. If you get the antenna say 3 metres above ground you will effectively get another 3 Db, so approx 19 Db of gain (ie over 6 doublings - or 64 TIIMES the original signal strength!) Of course you can only use the Yagi setup when you are stationery; it will also take a while to FIND the signal if there IS one. There IS a signal strength metre on your phone - apart from the signal strength display on the front. (https://telcoantennas.com.au/site/phone-engineering-menu) It is HIGHLY illegal to use an electronic booster (without a licence) – there is a huge fine for so doing - but a booster won’t get you more gain than this by itself – though it would if you boosted through the array. A booster will knock everyone else off the Network though, and may even lead to someone’s death in an emergency situation – why it IS highly illegal. You CAN buy one here, if you dare (http://www.quantel.co.nz/). If used ONLY in an emergency situation, it may be justified, but a satellite phone would be a better insurance policy. At home you CAN get a booster licence (we have one) if you are in a poor signal area https://telcoantennas.com.au/site/catalog/home-office/repeater-kits This has been a real boon to us, but obviously only works INSIDE the house.

11/11/2015: Emergency CB Radios: Lots of folk carry an Epirb. Some (like me) carry a Satellite Phone. Big bucks, but when your life/safety are the issue…If you are on a budget you might consider a Dual-band CB radio such as the Baofeng which can be bought for less than A$50 including a battery pack, which takes 6 x AAs – in addition to its lithium battery (or you might power/charge it with something else you already carry). Around 200 grams, I know but you get (receive only) FM radio (For weather forecasts etc), a UHF radio with duplex which can access the Channel 5 emergency frequency (you can be pretty sure someone will be listening anywhere in Victoria at least - http://uhfcb.com.au/40-Channel-UHF-Infomation.php), and HF (ham radio) as well (for which you should have a licence) but which propagates wonderfully from more remote locations. It would be a good tool also for keeping in touch with other users on the trail. You can also buy a higher gain antenna for a few dollars more. A car kit is also available. Available for example: http://www.amazon.com/BaoFeng-UV-5R-Dual-Radio-Black/dp/B007H4VT7A or http://www.ebay.com/itm/BAOFENG-UV-5R-CTCSS-Dual-Band-Radio-Walkie-Talkies-Original-AA-Battery-Case-pack-/391219854780?hash=item5b16853dbc (NB: I have been advised that this radio might not be Australian compliant, so it is your risk to use (many do). I use a (legal) GME (the last Australian produced radio) which handles the 40 legal Australian UHF channels (includes duplex), but costs a lot more.)

26/08/2016: The Not-So-Poor Man’s Sat Phone: Thuraya’s Sat Sleeve: Pricewise this offering from sits about half way between Delorme’s InReach SE (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-poor-mans-satellite-phone/) and the Rolls Royce model, Iridium’s Extreme (https://www.iridium.com/products/details/iridiumextreme) It is also substantially lighter than both (178 grams inc battery) but has to be paired with your phone – which means of course both devices have to work http://www.thuraya.com/SatSleeve though you can make an emergency call with it in stand-alone mode. However unlike the other two it does not have tracking or a SOS (PLB) function and there are areas of the globe where it does not work (New Zealand for example). Most places though, if you want a cheaper, lighter Sat Phone for most purposes it could be a good choice. See also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-poor-mans-satellite-phone/

30/06/2016: The Poor Man’s Satellite Phone: Delorme Inreach SE @ 190 grams is a good choice if you are in the market for a PLB or Satellite Phone. It is only slightly dearer (and heavier) than a stand-alone PLB (so much cheaper than lighter than an Iridium Extreme) but with two way SMS messaging functionality from anywhere on earth. You can load maps on it and use it as a GPS. You can pair it with your mobile phone to make it even more user friendly. It has a tracking function which can notify your friends every few minutes of your exact location (people can even ‘ping’ you to trigger your location) – and of course it has an SOS button which will bring emergency services if you need rescuing. The fact that it has two-way messaging will mean that unnecessary rescues will be reduced enormously. Costs about A$400. http://www.inreachdelorme.com/product-info/inreachse.php :

06/05/2016: Get Lost. Get Found: Plb/Epirb: Which one to buy? If you just want a straight emergency beacon, the decision is relatively simple: weight, battery life, replaceable battery or not…but there are many devices out there which offer much more. Some (such as Spot) are one-way messengers, others two-way. Some offer ‘breadcrumb’ tracking which means they report your position (eg to contacts) every few minutes, so that you don’t have to ‘trigger’ them to have people realise you need help yet send emergency services to your exact location. It is not that hard to imagine a scenario where you are unable to trigger your epirb even if you aren’t dead! Some have maps, weather…all sorts of frills. Then there are essentially a number of different sat phone systems if you want to go the ‘whole hog’.

If an emergency beacon plus one-way messaging and light weight (and the ability to change batteries) are the main consideration it is hard to go past the Spot Messenger. It perhaps pairs well with an Iridium satellite phone as each uses a different communication satellite system so you not only have two emergency devices (in case one fails) but two systems as well. Another interesting device is the Delorme Inreach SE which also pairs with your mobile but offers two-way text communication.

I think these two are my best options: Spot Messenger: http://www.findmespot.net.au/spot-gen3-gps-messenger/ & http://static1.squarespace.com/static/532cc334e4b0c8441ae7e9df/t/5376a2b9e4b095f55e73d717/1400283833538/SPOT+Gen+3+Brochure.PDF @ 114 grams and A$209 and Delorme Inreach SE: http://www.inreachdelorme.com/product-info/inreachse.php & http://www.inreachdelorme.com/assets/pdf/DeLorme_inReach_Brochure.pdf @ 191 grams and US$300.

NB: Iridium have a number of other products might suit you: https://www.iridium.com/products/types/Personal-Tracking

PS: I have always had some means of communicating (eg distress). I always let someone know exactly where I was going and when they would next hear from me/ should do something. Mostly I have had a 2-way radio which could access repeaters and/or a sat phone. I am just now thinking of adding a plb/epirb to the sat phone in case one fails (and the person at home triggers an unnecessary search). When Della and I are walking together we would each carry one so that (eg if one is swept away in a river crossing) the other can still call for help. I have hiked eg the Dusky Track in Fiordland NZ many times. Each year they fly out a number of bodies from there. I have personally called in air rescue to fly out bruised and bloodied folk on several occasions, folk who had no means of communication!

20/06/2015: GOLDEN EYE MINI SPOTTING SCOPE: Some people have quizzed me about this. Old hunting friends probably still have one of these from me courtesy of Xmases long ago, but alas they have not been available for a number of years. Keep looking though. They are GREAT! As you can see, it is a high-quality mini monocular which actually fits in a used 35mm film canister (23.5 and 5 grams respectively!) If you don’t already own one, or can’t source a 2^nd hand one from eBay or etc (unlikely), you may just have to console yourself with the much larger, heavier and possibly inferior products from other manufacturers. I usually do very little ‘glassing’ preferring to simply GO where my eyes can SEE. I think it is fairer on the deer too (as are iron sights). A rifle is a BIG advantage enough (but can give a quick and painless kill) without disadvantaging our noble quarry further with a panoply of tricky gadgets (infra-red sensors, high-powered optics, tracking collars, etc). Some places in the US restrict deer hunters to shotguns and solid slugs (mostly to protect other hunters it is true), but also making it impossible to take game which is further than, say fifty yards away. Bow hunters’ inestimable ethics are even fairer on the quarry than this. I think the INTENT of these restrictions are sound. Sometimes, however, my aging eyesight is not as good as it once was, which is when my tiny ‘Golden Eye’ comes out of my pack’s shoulder pouch to confirm what my eyesight is indicating: more usually than not for me it is some unusual bird or plant…http://www.atncorp.com/atn-golden-eye-archived-product

Specialized Optics - ATN Golden Eye

Golden Eye Mini Spottting Scope

07/12/2014: 130 grams is not very much to carry to save your life: http://www.equipped.org/blog/?p=284

FISHING: 31/10/2014: I recently posted about the BCB Fishing Kit (10.5 grams). The ‘Speedhook/s’ might be a useful addition to (a couple of) these. Pack of six US$20.95. Nothing like a set line overnight to provide for the hungry, lazy hiker that fish breakfast (or maybe platypus?) in paradise: http://www.speedhook.com/servlet/the-1/Speedhook/Detail

Speedhook

20/10/2014: BCB Fishing Kit: I reckon this is about as good as it gets for a lightweight hiking hand caster @ 10 grams (inc. line). It has a handy notch for holding the line from unravelling when not in use. The kits are available from the UK for @$7 delivered if you buy half a dozen. Good stocking fillers! Once you have caught ONE 200 gram trout or blue cod you will think it was worth carrying one in your pack. The Eneloop AA battery is shown for contrast, but if you haven’t yet made the switch to these rechargeable batteries which retain almost full charge for over a year(!), you should! http://www.bcbin.com/products/product_details.php?category=marine&product=Survival%20Food%20and%E2%80%88Water

29/08/2015: Fishing with Floss: It comes in a small plastic box that fits comfortably in your pocket. The 50 metres of cordage inside can be completely withdrawn and tied onto a pole for conventional fishing. Alternatively you can tie an overhand knot on the end and slip it onto your finger or wrist.

Take your floss box and have a rummage through your tackle to see what hooks and sinkers will fit inside the container and if possible look for flies or plastic nymphs too. However there is no substitute for live bait such as bugs or worms that you can find under a stone or log. For a float you can use a length of stick or the polystyrene balls I mentioned here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/worlds-lightest-tarp-clip/ .

I usually carry it for emergency use (repairs/first aid) http://www.theultralighthiker.com/rope-dont-leave-home-without-it/ but it would come in handy for a spot of emergency too. You will notice that there are (amazingly) several kinds of self-threading needle you can use for repairs. I know the Clayxeye fits in a floss container as I have had mine there for over twenty years (and effected many repairs with it in that time!)

50 metres o floss weighs @ 10 grams

Spiral eye needle

Calyxeye Needle

Easy needle

16/09/2015: Cotton Reels: Did you realise the end caps come off Gutermann 100 metre thread reels (7 grams) so you can wrap the end of your thread around it... or that you can store a needle inside the reel? There is quite a wide choice of different threads for various purposes (including a transparent one). If stored in a small snap-lock bag to keep it clean, it could easily be dipped in some methylated spirits to sterilise it for sewing up wounds. Of course it is great for rep[airs to clothing, gear, etc. The stronger threads would be useful in an emergency for catching small fish. You could sharpen a stick and force it on the lid end to make a small caster. (Some hooks etc would also store in the middle- you may want to tape the end a little more securely though. The paper end sticker may come off.)

21/09/2015: Dyneema Braid: Most fisherman already know this stuff is around and is replacing nylon monofilament, but you may not. I bought this .34mm line to make a method of securing my hearing aids against loss. (See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/securing-hearing-aids/ & http://www.theultralighthiker.com/spots-hunting-adventures-mystery-river-3/) I may well restring my 10 gram handline with it, as its 50 lb breaking strength will make it more suitable for many uses: emergency guylines, repairs etc, and dipped in some Methylated spirits it will no doubt still work well for first aid…even fishing: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/bcb-fishing-kit-as-good-as-it-gets/

25/09/2015: Four Gram Fishing Handlines: Found these 100mm x 12 mm screw cap aluminium canisters in the shed. Room inside each for a few hooks, sinkers, spinners, a needle etc. So I have ditched the 15 gram dental floss, and my 10 gram BCB fishing kits. This Dyneema line will suit well enough for fishing, repairs, first aid etc. My whole fishing kit is now less than 2 oz (50 grams). I used to figure 150 grams for a fishing kit was justified if I landed the odd 250 gram fish (I frequently did). This is even better. I am heading off soon for a wilderness trip for a week with my two JRs. They deserve to enjoy our wonderful National Parks they pay so much in taxes for! Whilst I was shaving down my fishing kit, I also shaved 834 grams from my pack weight in toto – which I find hard to believe, as I have gone through it so many times before. If I had a little more time (I leave tomorrow) I figure I could find another 200 grams. Soon my pack will be carrying me! I regret that the material I ordered for my new JR beds has not arrived yet, as the new ones will weigh 100 grams each (with a waterproof bottom), as compared with 200 grams for their (remodeled) old ones. I think I have a really good design for a dog bed now. I will let you know what the dogs thought of them when I return. Of course, I have dehydrated a week’s rations for them too!

01/11/2015: Pen Fishing Rods: These are tiny: I bought mine from this guy but I see you can get what seems like the same thing on eBay out of China for @ $10, so…My rod weighs 64 grams and the reel (spooled) 142 grams – and you certainly can cast it and catch fish on it (I have), if you are careful. Apparently you can spool the fly reel with a special line too: http://penfishingrods.com/shop/index.php

19/11/11: Hiking Fishermen: This is good: http://penfishingrods.com/shop/product_details.php?category_id=13&item_id=126 and so is this: http://www.moontrail.com/accessrs/a-misc/handline.html

TORCHES: 17/12/2013: I see Fenix has a new SINGLE AAA head torch, the HL 10 (http://www.fenix-store.com/fenix-HL10/) weighing 42.5 grams including the head elastic. I have been using their LD 01 coupled with a couple of O-rings, one micro-cord lock and some hat elastic for this purpose but this arrangement doesn’t point well (due to the shape of heads = just above where the eyes focus. If you replace the Fenix headband with the above arrangement you should have a torch which points where you want it at less than 20 grams (discluding battery). Of course, as an emergency back-up torch we also carry a ‘Photon Freedom’ @ 6.2 grams including battery (http://www.photonlight.com/led-flashlights/photon-freedom-micro-led-keychain-flashlight/). The cord in the Photon Freedom photo can be used to transform it into a head torch: at just over 6 grams it is probably the lightest head torch.

27/11/2016: The Eternal Headtorch: Coghlans Dynamo Flashlight: http://www.coghlans.com/products/dynamo-flashlihgt-1202 available eg Anaconda @ $10.99: Wind the handle for 1 minute to get up to 7 minutes of light. Features 2 bright LED lights, 10 Lumens. Positive feeling ON/OFF switch. Convenient key chain clip. Configured as a headlamp as shown, total weight 21 grams. This would make a good emergency torch. Will still work after all your batteries fail. Bright enough to read a book at night, to cook your dinner and do your camp shoes.

22/08/2016: Smallest Rechargeable Flashlight: Nitecore Tube. What a tiny delight this little guy is & at only 9.6 grams (less than a AAA battery and only 2 grams heavier than a Photon http://www.theultralighthiker.com/photon-torch/). I have a Bushnell Solarwrap Mini (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/charging/) I can plug one of these little guys into anytime it gets a little lazy. Two of them should be enough for most lighting needs. It ought also to be quite easy to create a head torch attachment for one (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/diy-head-torches/).

Two of them at 19.2 grams would save me the weight of several AAAs @ 10 grams ea & the weight of 1-2 mini torches at 16 grams ea & 1-2 Photons @ 7 grams ea - a saving of 109 grams! I always like to have plenty of lighting options. Probably what I will do at the outset is swap out the Photons plus their spare batteries and reduce the numbers of my AAA batteries and see how I go. It is always handy to have a spare torch (or two) for when they fail (much less frequently nowadays it’s true) or for when you need to lend one to someone who has lost theirs (still quite a frequent occurrence!) See: http://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/tube They have a special deal on them at Massdrop right now!

Specs:

Max Output	45 lumens
Max Beam Distance	24 m
Max Beam Intensity	150 cd
Max Run time	48 h 0 m / 2 d

LED	High performance LED
Battery	Rechargeable Li-ion
Beam color	White light
Length	56.5 mm / 2.22 in

Head Size	21 mm / 0.83 in
Weight	9.6 g / 0.34 oz
Feature	Infinitely Variable Brightness (1-45 lumen), Rechargeable

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16/06/2016: Black Diamond Spot 200 Lumens Head Torch: This is a great new head torch. Black Diamond have boosted the output on their new model from 130 to 200 lumens whilst still producing great battery life (claimed 50 hours at 200 lumens with a claimed distance of 80 metres). It also has many other brightness settings as well as a red LED. It weighs <90 grams with batteries. It is also waterproof. It is available from US$30.

Maybe due to increasing age/cataracts etc I had been having trouble focusing on various inside jobs I have to do during the current wet weather with my old head torch. This one has solved that problem. I admit it has somewhat of a ‘clunky’ appearance, but I am no beauty myself! It works brilliantly. Fiordland NZ snaps in background.

What they say about it: ‘Our most popular headlamp for everything from pre-work dawn patrols to late-night rappels after a long day, the Black Diamond Spot Headlamp now features 200 lumens of power in a waterproof package. Featuring PowerTap Technology, easy on-the-fly brightness adjustments are literally at the tip of your fingers. At first touch, the proximity light is illuminated, eliminating the headlamp shuffle when transitioning from camp tasks to low-light activities. With a handy lock mode, the Spot is safe from accidental battery drain while in your pack or pocket.

One TriplePower LED, one SinglePower white LED and one SinglePower red LED emits 200 lumens (max setting)

PowerTap Technology allows fast and simple transitioning between full and dimmed power in order to instantly increase illumination in distance or proximity modes

Red night-vision mode has proximity and strobe settings, and activates without cycling through the white mode

Sleek, low profile design uses three AAA batteries and three-level power meter shows remaining battery life for three seconds after switching on headlamp

Settings include: full strength in proximity and distance modes, dimming, strobe, red night vision and lock mode

IPX8: Waterproof—Tested to operate up to 1.1 meters underwater for 30 minutes. If submerged, water may enter the battery compartment and it will still operate, and it should be dried out completely afterwards.’

06/06/2015: ‘Supercharging’ LED torches: Single AA or AAA LED torches are impressive enough with their 100/150 lumens output on a single 1.5 volt battery but these Cree LEDs on which they run are usually designed to run on 3 or more volts which means you usually can run them with either the AA (14500) or AAA (10440) sized lithium 3 volt rechargeable batteries. You can look up the specifications of the particular led to check. Doubling the voltage won’t quite double the lumen output but it WILL go close. The torch MAY get very hot. There may not be enough heat-sink to waste that heat and you may burn out the circuit, but I have successfully run my AAA and AA sized Fenix torches on them without causing them any noticeable harm. The result is a pocket torch good enough to spotlight a rabbit! You will need to buy a special charger: http://www.batteryjunction.com/10440.html

05/06/2015: TENT LANTERNS: I have long used Fenix’s LD01 torch for this purpose, which I now see they have upgraded (the new LD02 model giving approx 20% more light on the brightest setting). It has three settings: 8, 25 and 100 ANSI lumens. The reflector is Loktited on and needs some careful work to unscrew it for the first time. Without the reflector I attach it via a carabiner (1 gram) to the provided keyring and hang the torch from the roof of my tent/shelter with a piece of string where it gives 360 degrees coverage good enough for cooking, conversation etc on the middle setting where one AAA battery will last at least one night. Of course once you are through cooking you can back it off to the lowest setting. It is quite bright enough to light all of a one of the DOC huts in NZ or an circle of over 7 metres radius outdoors if used in this way. You are getting a night’s light (perhaps for a party) for less than 10 grams per night with Eneloops batteries – which is pretty good. You can make a head band for it with a couple of pieces of elastic sewn together or some hat band elastic, two ‘O’ rings and a micro cord lock (2 grams) . I usually use their HL10 for this purpose, preferring to have two separate sources of light for convenience. After all, each of these torches weighs less than 20 grams without any battery: https://fenixlighting.com/product/ld02-fenix-flashlight/ & http://fenixlight.com/ProductMore.aspx?id=75&tid=13&cid=2#.VXDWt0b0ncs

17/08/2013: Great torch. Della bought me one for my birthday: Max 260 lumens. Weight 55 grams (with battery, 78 with headband too). A great little torch. Highly recommended. US$69 inc freight. You could spotlight rabbits with this little guy: http://www.zebralight.com/H502w-AA-Flood-Headlamp-Neutral-White_p_108.html

30/03/2015: Photon Torch: At 7 grams this keychain light has to be about the lightest (adjustable beam) torch (4.5 lumens). Some models are also waterproof. The Maxell CR 2106 batteries for it can be bought from eBay for approx $5 for 10. Each pair lasts 12 hours, so that would be enough light for at least a ten days’ trip (at 6 hours per day) giving a total weight of approx 27 grams! You can use one CR2032 instead which last approx 2 ½ times longer. ($7 for 10 = 37 grams for 50 days!). The CR 2032 are 20mm in diameter and 3.2 mm thick – that’s how it works! The ‘necklace’ arrangement can double as a head torch. I often use it for this purpose, or you could make your own with a piece of very light cord and a micro cord lock. You can attach it eg to your hat with a Velcro dot. I always carry one as an emergency torch (in case my main one gives out, or I lose it!) http://www.photonlight.com/led-flashlights/photon-freedom-micro-led-keychain-flashlight/

Image result for photon torch

09/05/2015: AMAZING TORCH: Pak-Lite Pilot LED Flashlight: Great emergency/hiking light; 80+ hours on the brightest setting and 1200+ HOURS on the lowest from a 9V battery at 45 grams inc batt plus a 10 year shelf life. White and red LED. Also comes with a headband. Some folk have hiked the entire Pacific Crest Trail (2600 miles) on ONE battery: http://www.backwoodssolar.com/super-bright-9v-led-pak-lite & http://www.bestglide.com/pak_light_led_light.html

08/07/2015: Mini Super Torch: A Week’s Light Weighs 50 Grams: Maratac AAA Torch, 138 lumens, weight 11.5 grams including removable pocket clip. You will not believe how bright this torch is on the highest setting! You could shoot a fox or rabbit with it at 30-50 yards, seriously! The light diffuser (included) at 1.5 grams turns it into a VERY creditable lantern. It also glows in the dark, as does the torch – handy when you need to find it in a dark tent.

It has three light settings quoted as 1.5 (55 hours), 40 (7 hours) and 138 lumens (70 minutes). I did a previous post about ‘Tent Lanterns’ here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tent-lanterns/ and I also mentioned this torch back in February: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/138-lumen-single-aaa-flashlight/ . With a birthday coming up I decided to order one. Now it has arrived I will order several more! I was pretty happy with my old Fenix LD01 at 14 grams and 85 lumens with its three settings 9 (11 hours), 28 (3.5 hours) and 85 lumens (1 hour) . (The LD02 has 8 (15 hours) , 25 (4.25 hours) and 100 lumens 30 minutes). This torch is shorter (67mm compared to 75 mm and looks more compact too. I was astonished actually that a AAA battery fitted in it. The newer Cree Led is obviously pushing out 62% more lumens per watt than the old Fenix’s model and 38% more than the new – which means you will have to carry correspondingly fewer grams in batteries .

You are getting 7 hours at 40 lumens (on the middle setting) compared with about half that at about half the brightness. That’s a lot of light. Your AAA battery will last approx two nights - more if you switch it back to the lowest setting – all you need for sitting in the tent talking or reading an ebook on your Android phone anyway afer you have finished cooking. The Enerloop’s rechargeable 750 mAh AAA batteries I use weigh 11.5 grams each, so you are getting all your light for a carry of 13 grams (torch) and about 6 grams per day (batteries). A week’s light - all up is about 50 grams! It is available from http://www.countycomm.com/aaa.html (US$29.75ea) . He doesn’t usually ship to Australia, but can slip one/a few in a pre-paid envelope for US$12 - if you ask nicely. The website had some glitches when I bought my first one (a lot of US websites do!) but he will come good with your torches. Merry Xmas!

The diffuser works quite well and also fits the Fenix torches (and probably others) and costs only US$2.50! It certainly is an alternative to unlocking the Loktite the head of the torch is screwed on with on the Fenixes – I can’t see whether the Maratac can be unscrewed or not, but with the diffuser it doesn’t need to be! As usual the addition of a bit of elastic and/or a couple of O-rings and a micro cord lock can turn this torch too into a head torch – as I have already observed with the LD01. I will do a post about ‘Home Made Head Torches’ soon.

Above Fenix LD01, Below Maratac AAA, Left Light Diffuser.

11 Gram Rechargeable Head Torch: Two O-rings, a micro cord lock and a short length of 1mm Dyneema transforms this 9 gram wonder into an 11 gram wonder. At 45 lumens for 1 hour or 1 lumen for 48 hours (or anywhere else in between) this is a wonderful torch. The 1 lumen setting is quite adequate for reading of a night (if you still use books) or for finding your way around in the dark once your eyes are adjusted.

These little guys weigh less than the AA battery used to power most ultralight torches (such as this excellent example: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/mini-super-torch-a-weeks-light-weighs-50-grams/) so it is well worth carrying a couple in your pack especially if you have the means of recharging them (such as this: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/charging/)

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/diy-head-torches/

09/07/2015: DIY Head Torches: You can save some weight and have fun by making your own head torch with a length of hat elastic, a couple of O-rings (or elastic bands) and a micro cord lock to convert eg any AAA torch into a head torch – or you can sew a couple of pieces of elastic together to create a comfy head band with an elastic sleeve for the torch (as shown) – we could have chosen lighter elastic; this is what we had. Converting the Photon Freedom http://www.theultralighthiker.com/photon-torch/ (as shown) makes a head torch which weighs a mere 9 grams (including battery)! This would be good for a day pack. Other weights: the Fenix HL10 https://www.fenixlighting.com/product/hl10-fenix-headlamp/ (which weighs 19 grams – compared to the Maratac http://www.theultralighthiker.com/mini-super-torch-a-weeks-light-weighs-50-grams/ at 11) comes with its own head band which weighs 27.5 grams. My elastic version weighs 19, my hat elastic one a mere 4 grams.

Top: Photon Freedom + hat elastic + 0-ring +micro cord lock

Centre Fenix HL10 + hat elastic + 2 o-rings + micro cord lock

Below: Fenix HL10 + two pieces of sewn elastic + tensioners

RIVER CROSSINGS: This is one of the most fraught parts of hiking. I have seen so many people come to grief doing this (and have had to arrange emergency air rescue for a number who foolishly injured themselves). For example, many folks will spend lots of time trying to find a LOG to cross on. Please, DON”T. If you fall off the log you will certainly NOT be in the best place to cross and may be swept to your death; if you needed a log it probably wasn’t safe to cross anyway, and you may be injured by the fall. Logs are round and slippery; you will need perfect balance – difficult wearing a heavy pack anyway. FORGET it! Secondly, don’t remove your shoes and cross barefoot. A badly injured foot miles from safety/your vehicle etc is a recipe for disaster. Many river bottoms (also) conceal broken glass even in the most remote places; anyway there are always sharp stones/sticks. Either put up with wet shoes or carry purpose river crossing (or camp) shoes, or just a pair of seal skin socks - 80 grams -so that you can have dry feet at night even with wet shoes: I recommend Crocs (300 grams/pair) as you CAN hike many kilometres in them if your hiking shoes give out or you happen to lose one eg down a hole, in the fire etc – or you could try making a pair of my ultralight thongs – 58 grams/pair; see ROPE 24/02/2015. Before you cross carefully choose your spot. Calm water is best. A long ‘still’ patch of river (even if you have to swim) is safer than a fast moving section with lots of rocks (even if shallower). If you have to swim, swim diagonally downstream having carefully worked out that the speed of the current will allow you to get across in the section chosen. Obviously a long, slow shallow section is best of all (eg as pictured). You should have your gear in a waterproof pack liner, your sleeping bag, clothes sat phone etc inside another waterproof bag inside the liner. I use THREE nested waterproof bags for my sat phone! It is your most important survival aid – apart from what is/isn’t between your ears! It is a good idea to ensure there is plenty of AIR inside your pack liner so you can use your pack as a kick board if you have to swim (I have, many times!) I use the Sea to Summit Ultrasil bags. Check them from time to time for waterproofness (when you’re home!) by filling them with water to see if they leak. If they do the supplier WILL replace them, or they can be seam sealed again. You can even blow up your inflatable mat either (partially) inside your pack or tie your pack to it for extra buoyancy. If you can safely wade, obtain a stout stick to make for a third leg, so you always have two points of purchase on the river bottom. Cross (at least slightly) facing INTO the current which is the most stable stance. Thirdly, if you are wearing your pack rather than using it as a flotation device, ALWAYS UNDO the pack straps. You don’t want to be bowled along in fast water with the pack strapped to your back! That’s an excellent way to drown! If you have a rope USE it (see post about ROPE 24/02/2015). Lastly, if it isn’t safe to cross, DON”T: wait for the water to go down or find an alternative route - either upstream (smaller) or downstream (flatter) – topography will decide your choice. You can live for a month without food; you can live for about a MINUTE underwater!

15/01/2016: River Crossings: This could be you: undo your waist and sternum straps and loosen your shoulder straps when crossing a river: http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/north/kluane-hiker-drowned-in-creek-1.3309328 See also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/river-crossings/

Crossing the Moroka 2012

HUNTING:

19/12/2016: Sambar Stalking #104: A lot can be learned about deer by observing their behaviour; I have been a sheep farmer for thirty years (longer now than I have worked at anything else – it looks odd on my census return: Occupation: Sheephusband!): They are quite like sheep. Particularly in their routines, the topography they prefer, their family behaviour, their caution and nervousness, their ability to choose a pleasant spot to be. They are also personally unsurprisingly docile and affectionate towards each other. If you have ever tried to force sheep somewhere they decided not to go you would not doubt their intelligence. It has been established that sheep can identify over 1,000 plants from a single experience of them; apparently this equates to an IQ over 60. A human being with that level of intelligence would be considered below normal – but would have the vote! We would not be able to shoot, kill and eat such a person, however.

NB: This is a draft. I will be adding to it a little later on…but folks have been asking me when I was going to post (yet) another deerhunting ‘story’ – so here it is!

There have been a number of studies of sambar deer (eg employing tracking collars) which are quite instructive about the areas they chose to inhabit and the way they travel them. I recommend you pay some attention to them rather than opinion (eg that they migrate!) Had you looked at such studies you would not doubt my opposition to trail cameras as unfair ‘hunting’ aids. Such studies also indicate their preferred food (mast ie fruit, nuts etc, not blackberries, for example). You can be paying attention to such things as you move through the bush: eg the prevalence of coprosma fruits (both sweet and prickly), lilly-pillys, etc: mast which is equally palatable to people, by the way! The early settler adopted such fruits as desserts and preserves. It is worthwhile knowing what can be eaten (by people too) in the bush and trying it out (even beetle larvae and the hearts of tree ferns, etc) as you never know when you may be lost and hungry!

Deer’s fondness for such foods leaves no surprise that orchardists view deer in much the same way as they view cockatoos and corellas. The main sign deer have feasted well on prickly coprosma may just be the absence of the fruits from suitable heighted branches as they run them through their mouths to suck off the succulent fruit. I have observed this many times. Blackberries are more of a desperation food for deer – as they are just so prickly. You will see them browsing the fresh shots in late winter/early spring when less alternative fodder is available. If it were their number one choice they would have eradicated blackberries from all those otherwise choked riverbanks and gullies!

Some folk ask whether they can be called – and indeed they can (odd times – I have). But you will need to study hard to learn what sound it is might make them come. By then you will likely have shot enough deer anyway! You will for a long while (if you ever hear it) and think something else made THAT sound. In such a situation likely two will come. You will also likely only hear such calls as may attract them if you are in quite a remote place, rarely if ever frequented by humans. Such calls as they do make are usually at the borders of two stags’ territories, though does and young make many small sounds each to each which you will have to be very close to hear. Because of my deafness, I no longer can. The voices of bats too, and many other sounds are lost to me. It is far better though than going blind as my wife has been doing.

Not unlike other herbivores one stag will often have several does (though he may tolerate a spiker or two with them). This means there are other spots where lone stags hang out or (quite often) where groups of stags hang out together, as with many of the deer family – moose for example. My old late friend, the ‘legendary’ Arthur Meyers shot three such stags out of one small gully (Poole‘s) in quick succession (I believe) in the Jordan catchment in 1962. I have personally seen a group of five stags living placidly together in a very small patch (about an acre) at the head of a gully in one of the many Stoney Creeks. The dominant stag is not always the biggest stag. Often another solitary stag is, one who was long ago beaten (perhaps because he tried too early) and has given up trying.

Having nothing else to do but grow, he might grow to an enormous size, as one Arthur’s mate George shot off my great hound Harpoon in Red Jacket in the 1990s. Harpoon and I had put this monster stag up from one of those small perched gullies high up (this one surprisingly on the South side of the Bald Hill) where deer love to shelter in wet weather (when you think they have all but disappeared from the terrain). I guess there is a spring there which keeps some fresh food alive; the vegetation is often thick (in this case all but impassable and choked with ‘wait-a-while’ or ‘lawyer’ vines). It is sheltered, warmer and drier than the surrounding bush – if you are ‘laying up’ anyway.

Harpoon put him up mid-morning. Within I guess less than an hour the stag had commenced a ‘walking bail’ where he would neither run nor stand. This is a tactic oft employed by large stags and is enough to shake most hounds, but not Harpoon. He stuck with him thus for many hours, until he cruised past George at the head of a side gully of the Ross Creek about 3:00 in the afternoon. George managed to get only one shot off into him with his trusty .308, as the stag immediately bolted over the ridge, George (and Harpoon) in hot pursuit. The single shot was enough (it was a heart shot) but as is quite normal the stag still ran for maybe half a kilometre on pure adrenaline until he collapsed on the side of a gully, where George found him, limping up to him with a twisted ankle.

He had perforce to spend a very cold night with him, huddled over a miserly fire with a couple of muesli bars for company. The radio communication there is always very bad, and we could not find him though we combed the bush until about 1:00am. Our search was made more difficult by an immigrant whom Arthur had brought along who was tasked to merely ‘keep the home fires burning’. This chap was of an excitable Italian disposition and had brought along a ready supply of ‘grappa’. Every time we would let off a shot in an attempt to zero in on George’s answering shot, ‘Giovani’ becoming increasingly inebriated would let off a shot of his own (unbeknown to us) which completely threw off our efforts to locate poor George.

He was much easier to find the next morning when we ‘rescued him around 8:00am, having driven into Woods Point to beg a loan of the gate key from the local policeman, who kindly offered to come along and assist. As I previously mentioned George was huddled against a giant log over a small smoky fire. He quickly assured us he needed a swig of rum before a drink of water. Everyone carried spirits in their hunting kit in those days. I was looking around for the stag. It took me a while to realise that the ‘log’ was the stag. He was so large he could not be rolled over (downhill) by one person. The head would not fit in the back of a Nissan Patrol, so had to be strapped to the bonnet where it over-reached both mudguards. There are monsters out there still!

At the top of this post you will see a snap of my first deer, taken off Alan Green’s hounds near Brunton’s Bridge in, I guess 1984. In the background you can see Alan’s lovely wife Carol and his faithful old hound Harry, father of my ‘Harpoon’. How young we were! 35mm photos are so eclipsed by the new digital photography though, aren’t they? There were often nearly as many women on our team as men. It would be good to see more women hunters today. I had been hunting deer for nearly two years before I took this one, so you can see why I think many potential hunters are too impatient today. We enjoyed many splendid days in the bush (ethically) trying to bag a deer. Usually we came back with lots of stories (and scratches) but not many deer. It was a great adventure however, and I deeply cherish the memories of those wonderful friendly hunts!

PS: Carol & Alan are now the proprietors of https://www.caoutdoors.com.au/ 61 Tramway Rd, Morwell. They sell all your hunting, fishing and camping needs. Also there really is no-one who is more knowledgeable as them – especially regarding hunting.

This doe came out of ‘The Flourbag’. I was waiting for her just off the B2 track, and had been for some time – with no sound of hounds or men. The old 27 meg CB radios we used in those days (often only one channel) were little better than two tin cans tied with a length of string! Mine was a 1 watt Tandy special. I still have it somewhere. She had been bedded near the willows in the Flourbag. She had gone up and down that stream a few times, then up the river getting further and further ahead of the hounds all the time. She had then crossed the Flourbag and come across into the Thomson where I waited with no sound of an accompanying hound to warn me.

Having heard nothing for hours (and it being a warm afternoon), I confess I had sat down on a log and was having a smoke – and reading a book actually, thinking the hunt was lost to me and had gone far upriver. I must have heard the slightest sound as she crept past me, as when I looked up, there she was. This was the only day in my long deer hunting career when I had forgotten my gun! Fortunately Alan had an old ‘sporterised’ .303 exactly like mine which he was able to lend me.

As you can see, a .303 will make a deer quite satisfactorily dead if you hit it squarely in the chest. This is the main thing. I have mentioned before that I only ever use iron sights. It takes a bit more practice to hit a running target with them, but once you are adept it is easier, as you never lose sight of your target. It is also fairer on the deer. Also, if you drop the gun or fall over with it as you are bound to do sometime, nothing will move those iron sights on an SMLE or a Mauser – which is mostly what everyone had once. I still have mine. Every so often they get a ‘run’ with some novice I am training.

I was watching Attenborough’s Planet Earth 2 ‘Grasslands’ just last night and noticed that the armed rangers in India’s National Parks still use them – and that would be in case of a charging elephant or a tiger, perhaps. They used to be touted as the quickest bolt action rifle in the world. In WW1, our soldiers were supposed to be able to shoot a German or a Turk every second (or quicker) and at 500 metres plus+. It would be good if our young were still trained to that level of skill with firearms – as the world is no freer of dangers today than it was in 1914 – and never will be! Col Townsend Whelen (after whom the rifle round and tent are named) used to train US soldiers to shoot their .30-06 bolt action rifles. He could reliably put a round a second (or better) into a target the size of a man’s chest at 200 yards every time. If you can do that, you need no artificial aids to take sambar deer.

The ‘crew’ that day: Alan & Carol Green, Ray and Val Quinney.

I shot from my seated position so as not to further alarm her – she was going quite quickly enough. As sambar often do she just hunched down with the shot and kept steaming along, so that (if you were someone else) you might think you had missed her, but I had grown up busting bunnies on the run with a .22 in Western NSW, so I knew she was hit in the boiler room and would soon be down. Even so I first walked right by her even though she was leaving a quite impressive blood trail. Sambar blend in impressively well to their surroundings: I can’t imagine how those unsporting types who haul off and shoot at deer at 1,000 metres ever manage to find them again. Judging by the heads I have picked up in the bush over the years, they often don’t!

It was celebrations all round. Our tradition was that it was the successful hunter’s ‘shout’ – in the Erica pub of course! Hunting ethically you don’t take anywhere near many deer as unethical folks are doing these days with their GPS collars and computer assisted ‘culling’ systems. We even caped this doe out and took the cape to the taxidermist – as I wanted my ‘first deer’ mounted. I cared not a jot whether it was a stag or a hind. Unfortunately the taxidermist ‘lost’ the cape, so it was not to be. I have never had much interest in other trophies since so I have not bothered. I used to give away heads if someone else wanted them until my kids once asked why I never brought a stag’s head home, though I brought the meat they grew tall on, so naturally I said I would bring the next one I shot home and have it mounted – which I did.

Our kids were quite chuffed by my first deer – and just as happy to eat it!

Curiously enough it was also a deer I put up one weekday in the Flourbag though I had not been there in years. At this time I had taken to hunting mostly weekdays, often by myself or maybe (as on this occasion) with maybe one friend – to help with the carry out! Not a particularly fine specimen of a stag, though perhaps a descendant of my first deer. Nonetheless it is ‘on the wall’ somewhere in our house. I have many better antlers now which I could swap on it, but it would not be the same. It would not be the stag I shot off ‘Harpoon’ that day off that track, long ago…

And here he is!

Some Other Hunting Related Posts (there are many more):

Adventures:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/sambar-stalking-101/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/sambar-deer-stalking-102/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/sambar-deer-stalking-103/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/does-spot-like-to-hunt-deer/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/spots-hunting-adventures-1-mystery-river/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/spots-adventures-mystery-river-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/spots-hunting-adventures-mystery-river-3/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/not-quite-alone-in-the-wilderness/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-adventures-1/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-canoeing-the-seaforth/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hunting-in-fiordland/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/moose-hunting/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/westies-hut/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hammock-hunting-till-dark/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-gorilla-in-the-bush/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/you-take-the-high-road-and-ill-take-the-low/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-last-of-the-mountain-men/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-soft-pillow-and-a-warm-bed-under-the-stars/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/if-you-could-only-carry-two-things-in-the-bush-what-would-they-be/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-importance-of-a-roof/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-deer-hunters-tent/

17/11/2015: How to make a Sling: What a useful instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/how-to-make-a-sling/ A little more information on ‘How To Use a Sling’ (Numerous Youtubes available) and I would be on my way, but I will certainly give it a go! Should only weigh a few grams (and like a fishing line) could provide some useful protein (and a change of diet) on the trail: plenty of bunnies, birdies and beasties small enough to be tackled with a well-thrown stone. Do NOT try this with BEARS! See also: http://slinging.org/index.php?page=how-to-build-and-use-a-traditional-apache-sling---l-w-forsyth & etc…

Picture of how to make a sling

20/03/2016: Solunar tables (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solunar_theory) : I have a friend who swears by these. He claims enormously enhanced fishing/hunting success using them. I have certainly noticed that there are clear peaks in game activity; I have even noticed a relationship myself with the phases of the moon…perhaps it is time to give this theory a test? There are various websites you can go to to create/download tables for your area. Some are free, eg http://www.huntfishsport.com/web.aspx?cmd=calendar

26/11/2016: Camo merino wool for deer hunting. This is the gear you need: https://gearjunkie.com/icebreaker-hunting-fishing-merino-apparel

Snapped this one at Icebreaker’s Shop 9 403 Smith St Collingwood Factory Outlet. Tell Jo I sent you; you may get a special deal – at least a warm welcome!

I have this hat in black and I have a few more on my Xmas ‘wish list’. It is the best hat I have ever owned. It keeps the sun off your face and out of your eyes well (so you won’t miss that critical shot because of glare). It is warm enough on a cold day, but can be paired with one of their UL merino beanies yet on hot days it wicks wonderfully and dries so quickly you are never aware it is wet.

More merino wool/icebreaker posts to come…

The raincoat made it into the Xmas basket.. I bought a beautiful green hoodie and a lovely brown dress shirt. They were an incredible bargains!

04/09/2016: Hammock Hunting Till Dark: The best hunting strategy is to be about where the deer are in the dawn and dusk. The easiest way to achieve this is to hammock camp so that you stop hunting when it gets dark, sling your hammock and tarp between two trees and start again at first light. If you have to knock off your hunt so you’re not stumbling around in the dark getting out, you are missing the best time of day to hunt. Walking in the dark is also fraught with dangers best avoided – this is the voice of experience speaking!

2016-09-03 17.19.52 comp

Many hunters either travel too light, or too heavy. The first can be overconfidence or youth, but once you get caught out overnight you may change your mind. At least do this: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/if-you-could-only-carry-two-things-in-the-bush-what-would-they-be/ Better yet though is to work out a lightweight kit so you plan to stay out overnight normally. Here are my thoughts about that from some years ago:http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hunting-daypack/ I think I would definitely opt for the Dyneema pack now, with the ability to tie some extra gear to the outside, eg: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/attaching-tie-downs-to-your-pack/

This post however is about planning to stay out overnight as your normal hunting procedure in order to optimise your crepuscular (love that word = twilight) success. A hammock and tarp can always be pitched between two trees no matter how steep the terrain, or how rough or wet the ground. This is worth remembering. I always carry a hammock in Fiordland for just this reason. I have slept dry and warm in my hammock with 6” (15cm) of water running underneath me and torrential rain streaming down (eg on Mt Baw Baw).

You can even pitch two hammocks under one tarp (to save weight). You have to boost the upper person in. Della and I have done this. You can guess who sleeps on top! You can also pitch it as a ground camp if you want to and when the ground is flat. You can use a couple of sticks or hiking poles instead of trees. You will need a few more stakes and guys if you plan to do this where you use the hammock as a ground sheet.

You do not need to buy an expensive hammock or tarp. My first foray into hammock camping was many years ago when we were much more pressed for loose change than we are now. I purchased some 2oz/yd2 waterproof ripstop nylon from Spotlight (for about $7 a yard/metre) and away we went: We made a 7’ x 7’ (210 x 210 cm) tarp with gross grain tie outs at the four corners and half way down each side. We needed a few yards of (approx 2mm) Spectra cord so we could tie it to a tree and peg the other corners (and half way points – if needed) to the ground – so also some stakes (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/?s=stakes)

To construct the hammock we cut a 7’6” (225cm) length of the ripstop (a hammock needs to be approx 2’ or 60 cm longer than you are), single hemmed the edges and double hemmed the ends (ie with an extra line of stitching or two just in case). We used a pretty heavy duty polyester thread for this. Then all we needed was some approx 500 kg breaking strain Dyneema or Spectra cord for the suspension ropes. You want a fair length of this (say 10-12’ (3-3.6 metres) at each end so you can reach trees which are wider apart and get round thicker trees. Ideally you are looking for two trees approx 6” (15 cm) in diameter (or thicker) and 10-12’ (3-3.6 metres) apart.

There is a special way of tying the hammock to trees so that you can get the knot undone again! Be very attentive about this! As in the picture below you pass the cord around the tree, then under or over itself, back around the tree, then under or over itself again. Three times is enough. Then tie it off with a bow or whatever. Friction will ensure it won’t come undone. If you are worried about damaging the bark of the tree (this can be a problem) a few short lengths of stick pushed underneath the suspension rope will prevent this.

2016-09-03 17.22.23 comp

I slept out in this homemade hammock and tarp lots of times without any grief whatsoever. One night I was camped in the bush near Dargo, Vic with a couple of hunting mates who had a dome tent. It came in to rain. Then it came in to rain lots. After the first spell of rain my mates erected a tarp over their dome tent as it was leaking from the top. After the second lot of rain it was also leaking/flooding from the bottom. All their bedding became soaked. They ‘enjoyed’ a miserable night. Even with only a 7’ x 7’ tarp (and a lot of rain and wind!) I was completely dry and comfortable. That night I was just using a ¾ length self inflating Thermarest. It was a little short and my shoulders and arms were a little cold from where they compressed my sleeping bag’s insulation. Live and learn:

I tried a number of solutions to this. First I moved up to an inflatable pad. My first was Big Agnes Ultralight ROM Insulated pad, still a wonderful (cheap) comfortable pad – highly recommended to anyone on a budget. Later I graduated to the lighter (but dearer) Thermarest Neoair range. Of course I now usually use mummy pads (for lightness) but a rectangular pad is much more suitable for hammock camping as the square ends help keep the hammock from compressing your sleeping bag at the shoulders and arms. You can also shove some closed cell foam in either side to reduce this negative.

I graduated to an Exped ‘Scout’ hammock (it was weight rated) which I reckon I slept in well over 200 times. It is starting to show some sign of wear and tear now but I was very heavy then (100kg) so it should last you a fair while. I also ‘graduated to a slightly larger and lighter tarp : an 8’ x 8’ (240 x 240 cm) cuben tarp made from .5oz/yd2 material which weighed less than 150 grams. Eventually I sewed a couple of ‘wings’ on it so it better suited ground camping (or when heavy weather was really pushing in low from one direction). This pushed its weight out to around 200 grams. I have used it dozens and dozens of times without any sign of wear and tear. It is a quite delicate fabric, so you have to be careful with it. Joe Valesko from Zpacks made it for me. You can see it on his web page here:http://www.zpacks.com/shelter/tarps.shtml and on mine here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hammocks/

The key to comfort sleeping in a hammock is to place your (inflatable) pillow underneath your knees. An empty wine cask would suffice.

Della and I both tried the Hennessy Hammocks which I admit are very comfortable. Probably no-one has done so much design work to improve the hammock as Tom Hennessy. Their products are also very well constructed and will give good service. We had two of the bottom entry hammocks (which are a neat idea). Della had no trouble entering through the bottom and positioning herself on her Thermarest Neoair pad for a wonderful night’s sleep. I found it much more difficult but I admit that was before my back operation and before I lost so much weight, so I will have to try again. (PS: And I did & it is now easy!)

2016-09-03 17.14.54 comp

View from inside a Hennessy Hyperlite

If I was starting out now (and cashed up) I might buy an http://hennessyhammock.com/products/hyperlite-asym-zipwhich weighs 793 grams, but the botom entry employs no zips and is so simple and elegant. You can use the optional Underpad: http://hennessyhammock.com/products/replacement-underpad-1-classic-expedition-backpacker-and-hyperlite 284 grams & Undercover http://hennessyhammock.com/products/replacement-zip-undercover-1 164 grams = 448 grams T = 1241 grams. I would probably just use my Thermarest Neoair Xlite Women’s pad http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/mattresses/fast-and-light/womens-neoair-xlite/product @ 340 grams T = 1133 grams though a Regular rectangular Neoair pad will work better in a hammock.

The problem you have with cold shoulders in hammocks applies much less so with Hennessy’s because you lie much flatter and the material doesn’t compress your sleeping bag so much at the sides. I will try to get hold of one of his new ‘zip’ top loaders to review. Ours are both entered from below.

We both really like the wonderfully safe enclosed feel of their hammocks completely surrounded first by insect netting then by a cosy roof. You really feel that after you have gone to bed there is nothing to worry about until morning. Forget all those things which might slither or bite, or whether the rain do rain or the wind do blow! There are handy stowage points for your pocket gear along the fixed centre line – a Hennessy innovation which is what makes their hammocks so superbly comfortable. (You can add this to your home made hammocks though it is a Hennessy patent). The Hennessys also have some pretty neat ideas for stowing your hammock, for keeping it properly tensioned – even water collection using the covering tarp. It’s all very well thought out and neat! Their ‘Snakeskins’ quick storage solution makes set up a breeze, though it adds a little to the weight and is an optional extra.

The key to quick and accurate setup of any hammock is to get the two suspension ropes of equal length and correct tension. First lay the hammock out on the ground so that one end of the hammock just touches one of the trees. Take the suspension rope out till it just touches the other tree, then halve the rope (ie the distance from the tree to the hammock). This point will be just where the knot goes up against the tree. Tie the rope off to the tree. Then go to the second tree and tie off the second rope to the correct tension. This is much easier with a Hennessy hammock or if you have a fixed centre line as the rope will be quite taut. Without the fixed centre line you need a certain amount of ‘hang’. Aficionados recommend approx 30 degrees. No doubt this is a matter of taste, but once you have worked out just the amount of ’hang’ you prefer you will be able to tie the hammock off in one go using this method.

The Hennessy hammock tarp just hooks on to the suspension rope with two Prussic knots (which is a great idea for easy tensioning of the tarp). If you are using some other tarp a loop of elastic at each end of the tarp will help to keep it tensioned during the night. The tarp needs to start out a little tauter than you might expect (likewise the hammock) as the two trees will bend in slightly when you enter the hammock. A catenary cut tarp will stay tensioned better than a diamond tarp.

The lightest hammock I have found is the Grand Trunk Nano hammock https://www.grandtrunk.com/products/nano-7-hammock which is claimed to carry 300lb (or 136 kg)! I reduced the weight of this hammock further by substituting dyneema suspension ropes so that it weighs 165 grams including the ropes. If you add a cuben tarp to this (136 grams) you have a hammock/shelter setup which weighs just 300 grams! These two items would also just about fit in your two back trouser pockets! I would use a ¾ length Neoair pad (260 grams) plus my Airbeam pad from my daypack to that to complete my shelter and mattress system. Of course (never satisfied) I plan to lighten this even further by making my tarp double as my raincoat. (See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hole-less-ponchoshelter/)

One of the best features of a hammock is what a great seat it makes. When you have mastered the setup it will only take you 1-2 minutes till you have a really comfy dry seat out of the rain to eat your lunch. I have really appreciated this sometimes in Fiordland. Two can usually sit happily side by side (but don’t exceed the load limit!) and you can even boil the billy on an alcohol or bushbuddy type wood burner stove at your feet while you eat. It would also make a great platform for glassing a distant hillside or as a hunting stand where you await your chosen prey. You can even rug up warm and dry in your sleeping bag while you wait.

You can warm your hammock with a fire (if you are careful). Either light the fire to the lee side of one of the suspension trees, or (utilising a stick) lift up one side of the tarp so that you can sit in your hammock in front of the fire. Two guys on that side will obviate this. I would keep the fire at least 6’ (1.8metres) away from the hammock.

If you have a bad back a hammock is definitely for you. Before my successful back operation (neurosurgery – never let an orthopaedic surgeon near your back!) I hung in our lounge room in my hammock for months so I could get a comfy and relatively pain free night’s sleep.

Here are a couple of hammock tarp manufacturers:

http://www.zpacks.com/shelter/hammock_tarps.shtml (start at 136 grams!)

http://www.outdoorequipmentsupplier.com/maccat_tarps.php (inventor of the cat cut tarp)

And a couple of hammock manufacturers:

Hennessy: http://hennessyhammock.com

Speer: http://www.tttrailgear.com/brands/Speer-Hammocks.html (Ed’s book is worth a read)

Jacks: http://www.jacksrbetter.com

Exped: http://www.exped.com/international/en/product-category/hammocks/scout-hammock

An Aussie outfit: Tier Gear: http://www.tiergear.com.au

Happy Hammock Hunting!

2016-09-03 17.34.58 comp

Left to Right: Zpacks 8′ x 8′ tarp (150 grams); Nano Hammock (165 grams) ; Exped Scout hammock (320 grams) ; Hennessy Hyperlite hammock – includes tarp (750 grams)

31/08/2016: A Gorilla in the Bush: So, finally I gave myself a couple of days off to go try out my new Gossamer Gear (GG) Gorilla backpack, and the hunting spot I have been wanting to access via packraft. Here is the pack already loaded up in our garden with our necessities and ready to roll. (See: http://gossamergear.com/gorilla-ultralight-backpack-all-bundle.html) As you can see Spot, our JR is eager to be off too. Readers who came in late should read:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-best-laid-schemes/ &

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-gorilla-in-the-hand/

It is a 3-4 hour drive to where we were going.

My Alpacka Fiord Explorer raft ready to sail with my Gorilla and the faithful Spot, ‘Come on Boss’

Safely across the mighty river we sought out a pleasant flat with access to water and with lots of firewood. It is still winter here, so nights can drop below zero (Celsius), and did. Spot decided it was time for a snooze. I collected a heap of firewood. As you can see from the westering shadows it is already afternoon, but time enough for a ‘look-see’.

And look what we found. By the looks a couple of years back a very old stag had died right by his favourite wallow. I found every part of him except his second antler which I guess has been pressed into the soft earth by many deer’s feet. There were also innumerable cast branches on the ground pretending to be the other antler. This one was only barely visible. His massive leg bones indicate he was a monster, but the size of his antler shows he was going back. His teeth were also well worn down. ‘Broken-mouthed’ we would describe him if he were one of our old sheep. Maybe I will find the other antler another time.

Here is his favourite wallow – and what a beauty it is, more a swimming pool really. The deer love to have a mud bath (perhaps it has to do with insects, or scent marking?) They liberally paint the trunks of trees for nearly 100 metres roundabout using them as towels when they’re ready to dry off.

Back at camp with the fire roaring out the front of http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-deer-hunters-tent/ It is a charming scene.

After tea inside the tent Spot nestles on my sleeping bag whilst I read a book on my phone and enjoy a hot cup of chocolate..

When I reclaim my bed, Spot’s is all made up on the Gorilla utilising it and the GG Sitlight pad as his mattress. He is comfy inside there: you can just make out his tail poking out the end of his sleeping bag. When I climb into bed I will also throw my coat over him.

Next morning and we are off. You can tell what kind of plants nothing likes to eat by the way they are not browsed at all. Most everything edible in this area is heavily browsed. I thing the deer may even manage to eradicate the blackberries. The patches are full of dead canes and well trodden down.

We want to have a look at the big valley about two km downstream around that ridge. It look like it will be a bit of a climb around that stone outcropping on the bend. The river is really steaming here.

And this is the stream we are looking for. I will call it ‘Wombat Creek’.

And here’s why: ‘Wally’ wombat out for a morning stroll. Quite undisturbed by us. A promising sign.

There are many lovely grassy clearings for kilometres along Wombat Creek. I may move my camp further up it another time.

A fresh rub. Another good sign.

And a preaching tree. There is lots of stag sign around here.

Our lunch spot. A lovely warm stop even though it is still winter. I sit on the Sitlight pad on a nice flat rock and enjoy some cheese and salami on Vita Weat biscuits. Spot has some of that as well as his Smackos. http://www.theultralighthiker.com/lunch-on-the-trail/

A little further up the valley we come upon this tragedy. An old doe must have been swept off her feet by this flash flood and trapped under this log. As I said elsewhere: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/you-never-know-when-your-numbers-up/ You can see her skull (upside down) centre right, and her body on the other side of the log in the centre.

A little further on we come upon this promising wallow. It must be nearly 6’ deep, probably utilising an old collapsed wombat city. It pays to scrape the bottom of wallows such as this for cast antlers. Eventually you may have enough of them to make something like this: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/uses-for-antlers/

Another fine preaching tree with some stag scent still lingering according to Spot. The stags clearly stand on their hind legs and rub some scent gland on their noses as high up on the tree as they can reach (over 6’). Like rub lines it is a kind of territorial behaviour.

The deer have really been eating this valley over. Here the apple hazel and prickly coprosma have been well chewed down.

Another of life’s tiny tragedies. (Near Spot’s nose) a yellow breasted robin has succumbed to the winter chill and short rations (as most birds do each year). Its tiny body is bobbing in the stream, adding a sad flash of colour as we pass by.

We come to a really beautiful series of cascades.

And a truly gargantuan wombat burrow. This one was over 6’ deep. This wombat must have been Pharaoh Cheops in a past life!

Now a fine looking rub line. Notice how you can see the line of (three) fresh rubs leading up the hill through the wattles and gums. This line marks the limit of his territory (and his neighbours!) Sometimes you will hear (usually of a night) two stags howling mournfully at each other in just such a spot.

Following the line we decide to go up through the prickly wattle. Showing his disdain for it a stag has thoroughly thrashed this one.

After a little while we are wishing he had thrashed about a billion more! We headed up the ridge through this stuff intending to follow the top of the ridge down towards camp and come at the camped deer from above on their lee side. This is the best strategy. Unfortunately, like so many plans, this one was doomed. The fire regrowth on the ridge was awesome. We expected it to be relatively clear: the usual sort of thing: gums a few dogwoods, easy walking. We were hours pushing through the dreadful stuff and arrived (thankfully) back at camp well after dark where we enjoyed a cold supper. We left plenty of deer to harvest for another day. You are probably wondering why I did not just camp up on the ridge once it became dark (or it was clear I was not going to make camp). A fair point. It had been a 19C day and i was down to <500 ml of water and going to be very thirsty so I pushed on, something I certainly wouldn't have done in an area fraught with mine shafts! I do have a lot of experience walking in the dark.

Next morning we packed up and paddled out, Spot resuming his coxswain’s position, ‘Paddle right Boss.’

All packed back into the trusty Gorilla. If I shoot a deer here (as I have done before many years ago when I swam the river in winter – we were all young once. It is a wonder some of us survived to be any other), I can come back to the river for the boat. I can pack all the contents of my pack into a compression sack and tie that onto the top of the pack, so that I will fit the first 15 or so kg of meat in the pack (in large plastic handle tie bags which I always carry). I will take that load back to the car, then go back for the second, larger load. Might take me three trips say.

Being August the bush was alive with wattle blossoms, particularly on the West facing slopes which are warmer, and where the deer are more likely to be found sunning themselves on a day like this.

Here and there an Erica our Victorian floral emblem lit the forest floor up with its beautiful pink bells.

We always called this purple beauty ‘Traveller’s Joy’ a name which still suits me best. I also like the name ‘Happy Wanderer’ – after those Hardenbergia sounds pretty flat.

You have been wondering whether we saw any deer. We saw heaps of them (at least their orange eyes at night walking out), and of course we had the usual visitations around our camp to disturb our sleep. And we camera glassed these guys probably 500 yards away grazing in a clearing, whilst we were way up on the hill much more than a km’s walk away. And it was well dark before we could have arrived anywhere near them. I know some folk would take a shot at deer at extreme distance like this with their telescopic sights. I always use iron sights, and only shoot deer who can see me too. Having a gun gives you advantage enough; you should leave the deer the use of his senses to escape you. He has a right to live too.

To tell you the truth deer hunting has always been a good excuse just to get out and enjoy the sights and sounds of our beautiful Australian bush, so whether i shoot a deer is more than somewhat immaterial. I actually prefer lamb anyway, and we have always been sheep farmers after all. BTW: My pedometer tells me I did 25 km yesterday through rough going, thick bush and up and down 500 metres plus. A further 13 km on the afternoon before. Not bad for a gent who is not far off beginning his eighth decade of life!

Oh, you have been wondering how did the Gorilla stand up? I had been hoping that a fog would come in whilst I was away so I could entitle this piece ‘A Gorilla in the Mist’ but the weather remained deliciously clear, so it remains just a companion piece to my previous post, ‘A Gorilla in the Hand’. The pack is beautifully comfortable and easily handles the not inconsiderable quantity and weight of stuff I imposed on it. The Robic nylon may not be bulletproof, but it stood up to a few hours of pushing through horrible prickly wattle without so much as a blemish, more than I can say for myself. It has lashing spots on the top so you can tie things to it (as shown with my packraft). I will show you how in another post soon.

It might be a good idea to have lashing spots on the bottom so you could do the same there. It would not be hard to add them – the material is plenty strong enough to take another compression bag below as well as the one above. I guess the manufacturers of this excellent piece of gear are more figuring on ultralight hikers and a weekend pack, which is why they have trimmed the volume of the pack down from their much larger Mariposa, a pack which I have owned for many years. Mine is in a lighter less durable material than this Robic they are now using though still going strong, but if you really want volume, the Mariposa is something like 68 litres including the extension collar. It also has this improved suspension system which will handle with ease a much bigger carry than the Specs indicate. That sort of volume should get you a month’s hike without resupply. Some wild adventures there. Happy hiking or happy hunting.

17/08/2016: The Best Laid Schemes (as Robbie Burns opined) “o' Mice an' Men. Gang aft agley, An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain” (‘To a Mouse’: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poems-and-poets/poems/detail/43816). The photo of Spot and I testing out the new Klymit packraft (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-packraft/) on the farm dam give no hint of this. I need to inflate it some more I think.

I spent the morning sorting gear so we could fit into my new Gossamer Gear Gorilla backback (http://gossamergear.com/gorilla-ultralight-backpack-all-bundle.html - they have a special price on them right now. More about that later). I envisioned we could essay an expedition I had long contemplated…

There is a spot along one of our fine rivers in Victoria (I will not say which one) where it is almost impossible to access the opposite shore to hunt the very many sambar deer which inhabit it, in any case in the winter months as the river is too wide, deep and fast flowing. I had considered that there were a couple of spots where one might climb down to the river from the road (which runs along one side) and that it ought to be possible to float across to the other side (and back), set up camp for a couple of days on one of the many beautiful flats I can see from high up, then spend a pleasant couple of days stalking some monsters which clearly must inhabit them.

All our gear and food for a couple of days do fit in the smaller (40 + 8 litre pack) – as you can see. Shrinking your kit (from 52 litres) like this exercises a profitable degree of discipline which it is worth emulating. I omitted nearly 1.5 kg I didn’t need for a short-ish trip. Some are things I might need (say) on a ten day trip without resupply and where help is far from hand. Some are things I can probably permanently do without. Even so I have food aplenty for myself and Spot (the JR) as well as his bed and room to lash the pack raft on the top if I wanted to. The other side of the pack can easily hold a water bottle, hiking poles and the paddle. If I was going away just by myself with this pack I reckon I could squeeze a 5-7 day expedition into it! Spot’s bed and food alone take up space that could otherwise be occupied by at least three days of my food. I am carrying a pair of crocs for the river crossing, & etc… The pack is incredibly tough.

We took forever to get away yesterday morning (as usual) and didn’t manage to leave home until nearly midday. I should have put the trip off another day and left first thing in the morning. Hindsight is a wonderful thing! I thought I should (just) have enough time to drive there (3 hours), get across the river and make camp before dark. I had not counted on the delay caused by finding a sign which read ‘Aerial Baiting’ which cost me over an hour to check out (not till October apparently). Then I found that both the first two possible crossing spots I checked out were unsuitable. Just on dark I found a third possible crossing but it was by then too late. Rather than make a cold camp without a fire and wait till the next day I decided to try again on another day.

The river height gauge for this section of river has never been reliable at all. It is surprising that it has never been fixed given that it is the source of major hydrological data! I have complained about it a number of times. I have travelled to this river anticipating a pleasurable canoe trip on a number of occasions only to find that the river height was up or down by as much as a metre compared with the gauge height! On this occasion I knew that there was going to be much more water than I would normally canoe this section of river. As I planned only to cross it in a relatively deep straight section without rapids, that did not concern me overmuch.

Still there were three or four factors I needed to take into consideration: I needed to be able to get back as well as across. I could have made my way across at the second spot, but needed to find a second crossing, which I think I found just on dark. This second crossing would make a better way across, and the first would make a better way back. Unfortunately the way back is above the way across, so that if one does not make it one cannot pull out and cross back. Also, there was much more very fast moving water than I had anticipated. I need to go (much earlier) on another day to work this out. On this occasion I was too replete with youthful enthusiasm for my own good! I was so keen to try out my new backpack and packraft.

Also, I needed to better take into account the difficulty of getting across with a dog, a gun and a pack in a new (smaller) raft. I will try again on another day with my Alpacka Fiord Explorer, an inflatable life jacket (I forgot), a waterproof bag for my gun and tie-downs for my pack - and lots more room for the dog (this particular Alpacka is a two person boat). The main reason I did not take it in the first place is that I was loath to be leaving a $1,000 boat somewhere someone else might find and remove it - extremely unlikely I know, but I have been ‘up the creek without a paddle’ so to speak on other occasions!

I will spend a few days getting some work done at home, get all my gear ready so I can leave first thing one morning, then head out on another occasion in the not too distant future. I am pretty sure I can get across and back safely now, but it needs a bit more careful checking out. Placement of a couple of floating, trailing ropes to catch hold of to ensure I am not swept past my landing spot might be a good idea too.

Once I have perfected it I will have a really excellent hunting spot where I can be pretty sure I will have uninterrupted access to a goodly supply of deer in the winter months. I know there are some beautiful sheltered camping spots with ample firewood and ready access to water on the flats on the other side of the river too - I have canoed it many times in the summer months.

Fortunately on this occasion i avoided the 'grief and pain'!

04/06/2016: The Last of the Mountain Men. Isn’t this the feeling everyone who ventures far from track or trail is seeking: the freedom of the wilderness, the exultation of the hills, the distant roar of rapids, the whistle of wind in the trees, the ubiquitous echo of birdsong, the warning bark of a deer in the sunset… Della and I are back from three days and approx 50 km walking in one of our own trackless wildernesses in the Gippsland mountains, testing out ourselves and the functionality of our http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-deer-hunters-tent/ for two hikers plus two dogs. As Della is partially sighted I have now cleared a walking path approx 60 km long to make our journeys there easier – and there is so much more to explore still downriver and up the three major valleys encountered so far to keep me busy in the future.

We need to do a little more work on warmer clothes for Della as she sleeps rather cold. A down hood and a pair of Montbell’s ‘Thermawrap’ trousers should do the trick (added to her down socks, two insulated jackets plus vest and -7C down sleeping bag). On the same night where she was still a little cold (in all but the hood and trousers) I was quite warm enough in a -1C down sleeping bag in singlet and shirtsleeves with no socks. We are all different.

The 4WD track which gets us to within 5km of the river is very overgrown. This is a good section. A couple more summers and we will be walking all the way, but we will keep on driving it down whilst we can.

Around a 10 km walk to the riverbank where we made our bed. A toasty warm fire heats our tent where we are serenaded by the river’s murmur at the end of Day One.

Morning has broken. Spot loves to help Della with the dishes.

Though a little crowded, as you can see next morning we all fit into the little tent. You can picture us sitting on our Cyclone Chairs at the entrance watching the best show in town, the flickering of the embers of a night as we enjoy our hot chocolate before bed.

In summer we will venture the river too on a multi-day trip with our packrafts. It looks quite delightful. Here is a major rapid we could still hear roaring at night from approx 5 km away!

You never tire of gazing at water on stone. Will need to watch out this one does not tip us out of the canoes.

It is a beautiful stretch of river.

And just keeps going on and on…

The second night we camped high on a wonderful clear ridge with a magnificent view of the river and the huge valleys all about. Sunset was memorable. In Della’s photo here you can see the tent tinged with it as we put it up and I gather some kindling in the background. Tiny has already settled in for the night.

Tiny was quite tired out - she is 16 ½! She loves Della’s sleeping bag.

This young ‘black velvet’ fellow was harvested for meat. Amazing ears.

Tiny below. Both the dogs love to sit on the packs during rest stops.

The tent proved excellent for one – if a little crowded for all four of us, but at <750 grams (in Tyvek) it is an easy carry. I will be remaking it (soon) with a cuben fibre roof and 1oz/yd2 silnylon poncho floor – perhaps even with .7oz/yd2 insect netting at the front door. This version should be well under 400 grams, so will undoubtedly become my ‘go anywhere’ tent.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/spots-adventures-mystery-river-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/spots-hunting-adventures-mystery-river-3/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/not-quite-alone-in-the-wilderness/

12/06/2015: Sambar Deer Stalking 101:

Tiny loves deer - she likes them cut up a little smaller though.

I have hunted sambar deer for over 30 years in the Gippsland mountains. Mostly I did it because it was fun and an excuse for a day out in the bush which I love. I still prefer lamb, and having been a sheep farmer for just as long, I always had plenty on hand. These days I rarely shoot the deer I see, and I see many – more than half a dozen a day usually, AND I hardly ever bother any more to hunt the mornings and evenings. If I did, I would see over a dozen a day I guess! I prefer to get where I am going mid afternoon, make camp, enjoy a fire, a good book, perhaps some music, a lie in mornings…Anyway, it is good to make it to camp, get the tent pitched, collect the wood, lay the fire (unless it’s raining - in which case the kindling is IN the tent), perhaps hang your pack out of reach of dingoes, then have the last 1-2 hours of daylight for hunting the river bottoms; that is when the deer will be coming down to feed (and drink). Then hunt the FIRST hour or two of daylight before the deer creep off to bed.

Long before you venture into the bush to hunt or DO anything, first you need to know how to SURVIVE in the bush, how to not STAY lost, how to make a shelter and light a fire in the rain…how to be comfortable there. You might benefit from a perusal of my many thoughts on this here: http://www.finnsheep.com/HIKING.htm I will soon, as often promised, get up a GEAR LIST, but I am sure you an guess at most of it in the above..

First you need to go where there are lots of deer. Deer are lazy just like everyone else, and don't want to travel too far for a feed, so there will be lots of them where the feed is best. The feed is best just where it is best for normal livestock: creek & river flats and improved pasture on private land - or what was once private land (eg the Wonnangatta National Park), the east side of North facing gullies &etc. The bush ABOVE clear paddocks ALWAYS has bedded deer. Often there is a 4WD track in turn above it. Very handy. Deer love areas around water supply catchment dams for the same reason (eg Thomson, Upper Yarra, Moondarra, etc.) When the Thomson was low, you could literally see herds of them (50+) at dusk coming down to graze on the clear dam bottoms. The reek of them at the forest edge was unbelievable. Of course the forest areas surrounding are often too thick to hunt them (even IF legal). They also love to colonise fresh burns and logging coups in larger numbers, and naturally their numbers are highest at the ‘peak’ of their ‘wave’ where they are moving into East Gippsland. The regrowth burns on the Snowy should be great places to observe them this season – though it is not legal to hunt them in that area of the Alpine National Park. You can check Google Earth for suitable spots in conjunction with Victopo maps and the GMA maps showing where you can legally hunt. Usually I prefer more gentle slopes now, but I used to delight in the steepest country because no-one else hunted it! I have found that just over half a day’s walk from where you can park a car the deer become MUCH less timid. Up to that point they will honk and run away. 300 metres beyond that point they will often just stand and look at you. I love to stand/sit and watch hinds and fawns in a family setting. I prefer overnight trips/hunts anyway, or multiple days. It is easy enough to carry a week’s tucker, and everything else you could need in a pack weighing about 10 kilos. You are bound to see more deer on an overnight hunt because you don’t have to leave early to get back to your car before total darkness. You will also likely have only an easy, flat walk to your camp in the twilight. Dusk is a magic time.

Deer will almost invariably come by and make all sorts of noises within a chain of your camp (if you are alone/quiet) during the night. You could easily shoot them even in the light of the Fenix LD01 AAA torch I wrote about the other day, as it is enough to light up their eyes. I never shoot at night. First, you don’t really know what you are shooting at, particularly if you miss. Second, if you take a shot and wound an animal, it will suffer horribly before you can possibly locate it (unlikely). I once found a spiker whose lower jaw had been shot clean off by spotlighters, and which had suffered dreadfully for many days. If you want to drive around at night to OBSERVE deer, that is another matter. The Upper Thompson Rd rarely fails to provide encounters, as do Moroka Glen, the Haunted Stream and many others.

So, go where there are lots of deer. It is best if the bush is not too thick. You can also pick this up from Google Earth. Sometimes there are fire tracks not shown on Victopo maps, or old closed tracks which give access to less frequented country. I prefer NOT to run into other folks when hunting/hiking, so I usually hunt mid-week now, because I can. It is good if you can SEE through the bush. You need to TRAIN yourself to look THROUGH it anyway. Your eyes/brain naturally want to focus on the nearest objects which means you are NOT seeing the deer through the trees; you are just seeing the trees. You can practice looking through the cracks in paling fences as you walk around the town streets, or looking through hedges as you drive along until you are used to focusing on the things that are on the other side of the screen of vegetation. You have to look INTO the distance. It is a trick worth learning. Then too you will be better able to see the lie of the land, which is supremely important in finding your way and assessing a deer’s likely path. I can guarantee you that the critters which live in the bush ALWAYS do this – which is why they (almost) always see you first unless you are moving VERY SLOWLY! Really thick bush is a pain anyway, and it will be harder to shoot a deer in it – unless you are hound hunting perhaps. When a deer honks at you but doesn’t run off is an excellent opportunity to test your ability to see THROUGH the bush. You can guarantee it is watching you, and will respond to your every movement, so its eyes (at least) MUST be visible to you. Practice finding those eyes; maybe an ear: they will be behind vegetation perhaps, but are in clear view. Deer WILL stand for an hour!

Some folks have become ‘ambush predators’. They place camo cameras on trees near game trails, drinking spots and wallows, record the deer’s movements, then lie up in wait for them. Others have high powered scopes and ‘glass’ the opposite sides of valleys (up to a kilometre away) and shoot their deer long distance. I would find both these methods boring and unfair. I prefer to travel past lots of deer (and other things). There is always something new to see and learn in the bush (new things which are blue for example, in a satin bird’s bower). I prefer to be moving. The ‘Theory of Searches’ notwithstanding, (see Robert Sheckley’s ‘Mindswap’), you WILL see more deer (where there are lots of deer), if you walk past more deer. You will also learn where they bed, and especially where they go in really bad weather. Important knowledge for middle of the day hunting and when it is cold and rainy but you still want to be ‘up the bush’. Tip: Learn where there are ‘perched gullies’. In undisturbed areas, they often don’t travel far from where they feed. Often no more than 200 metres UPHILL. They also like to sleep in spots where YOU would - if you had to live in the bush and had no man-made shelter, or protection from (potential) predators. They always have a view of their back trail; they like some cover but not so much they can’t see through it - particularly when they are lying down. Hunt the faces during the day and the bottoms at the ends of the day. Stags particularly can still be about near their thrashing places and wallows in the middle of the day - especially IF they are in rut. This is a smell you need to learn to recognise - as is the difference between stag and hind smell. Smell is VERY important, especially if like me you are very nearly deaf!

Mind you, sambar don’t make a lot of noise. If they are moving along normally, you are unlikely to hear them, save for the very occasional snapped twig or chink of stone, particularly when they are crossing a stream. Rarely you will hear them wallowing, thrashing. VERY rarely fighting. Or the preludes to fighting: howls very like an old hound. Sometime you will be challenged by a stag with such a call. Do NOT think it is a hound. A lost hound SELDOM howls. You can howl and they will howl back. You can spend an entertaining hour at this play. They have their warning honk, not unlike a car horn, and there are many small sounds passed between hinds and fawns which you will only hear when they are at play coming down to graze in the early evening – and if you are VERY close. Being deaf is not so much of a disadvantage in sambar hunting.

Learn to ‘read’ deer sign: droppings, browse, rubs, thrashing, scrapes, preaching trees, combat zones, wallows, towel trees, drinking spots, tracks, paths, bedding spots…You need to learn not only how fresh it is but what it tells you about the deer’s life. Following deer tracks can teach you much, though you are not specially likely to shoot a deer whose tracks you are following (unless it is VERY deep asleep (sometimes) or has little experience (eg of hunters). Concentrating on following the tracks will almost certainly mean you miss seeing the deer which made them (Keep looking THROUGH the bush), but you WILL learn much about its habits, how fast it is travelling, how BIG it is, (I followed a stag - my daughter saw it - on the Ben Cruachan Creek years ago whose STRIDE was MUCH longer than mine), how it travels the terrain, where it beds, where its nursery areas are, what it is doing (browsing, mating, fighting…) This will allow you to later PREDICT where particular (types) of deer are likely to be. During the day you are more likely to get a shot at them by dropping in from the side or above than from below. Learn to walk QUIETLY, but do not stress too much: they are used to things moving about in the bush – and being able to run away from them. Wallows are often found on flats about a chain inside and upstream river bends. Antlers can frequently be ‘fished’ from them. They mostly smell of STAG. Fix the scent in your mind, and pay attention when you next smell it. Scent (that humans can smell) doesn’t carry far – less than 100 metres. Smell THAT: there is a stag in SIGHT, maybe. Unfortunately they DO leave their smell on other things.

Never carry a loaded gun. The breach should always be empty. Forget so-called ‘safety catches’. More people have been shot because of them than triggers! I always use a lever action rifle because I can load it as I swing it to my shoulder. You are much more likely to shoot a running deer than a standing one. I always use iron sights because most shots are close and because they remain accurate just about whatever happens to your gun, and it is EASY to see the deer over them. You ARE likely to drop your gun on rocks some time. Everyone falls over. A dropped loaded gun can easily go off! Make SURE it IS a deer before you shoot. Early days EVERYTHING looks like a deer (stumps, anthills, friends...) A lever action also allows a quick follow-up shot should it be necessary. Theoretically, it should not – but I have put NINE .30-06 rounds through the chest of a sambar stag at close range only to have it still standing there looking at me. I was out of ammo by then, so decided to wrestle it to the ground and cut its throat. I am here: it IS possible to do this – but DON’T! These days I use a .308 because it is lighter but will still make a deer just as satisfactorily dead as say a MUCH heavier .45-70. My current gun is a take-down. This is handy when you don’t want to draw attention to yourself as a hunter, and when you need to put it in your pack because you are tired and want to use your hiking poles (I AM old!), or you want to put it in a dry-bag because you are canoeing: LOTS of good deer country can be accessed by canoe. You can take lots of supplies, stay quite a while in luxury – and it is easy to get the meat out! Oh, and there are fish, which I prefer to eat.

I NEVER wear camo. I can pretty much tell that someone has been (or is at) ‘my’ hunting patch wearing camo from the behaviour of the deer. People wearing camo really SPOOK the deer. They will take days to return to their normal habits. This has NOTHING to do with the camo hunters shooting deer – they seldom do. Other deer do not run away because you have just shot a deer. You can shoot a deer here, then walk 300 metres and shoot another one. I surmise it is the SPOOKINESS to the deer of seeing the forest WALKING. Anyway, they seem always to make themselves a lot scarcer than if you are wearing ordinary clothes so that the deer can figure out what you are, ie some kind of animal like them. Anyway, most of that camo hunting gear is just simply awful. It is (apart from being hideously expensive) typically heavy, sweaty, not at all waterproof, soaks up huge amounts of water, completely impossible to wash and dry in the field, cold, flammable, uncomfortable…Lightweight hiking gear is much better – only avoid blue as the only colour deer are supposed to be able to see is blue which apparently sort of ‘glows’ for them. Deer will NEVER see you when you are standing still. You can stand there all day; they will pass within yards of you – just spook when they whiff you! Most other wild animals are the same. It is laughably easy to creep up on a wallaby and catch it by the tail, for example. Just be still and bent over when they look at you.

Nowadays (it is legal) I always take (at least one of) my Jack Russells. They are better company than most people; they are smart as a whip; they eat little and give much in return. They are easy to carry across rivers on your backpack. They require a VERY small sleeping bag and mat. They know long before you do that a deer is: just there. Deer are not inclined to run from them, but ARE fascinated by them – which means they are ignoring YOU! They enjoy you shooting a WHOLE deer just for them! Once you have done it a few times, you will easily be able to do it a few more. Forget about quietly sitting watching family groups of deer in the late afternoon with them around though. They WILL give the game away so that the deer behave differently. Deer will usually bail instantly for a Jack Russell when they would run from any other dog. Some (eg this one, Tiny) snore!

24/06/2015: Sambar Deer Stalking #102:

Having mastered the art of lighting a fire in terrible conditions (I hope you have: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/how-to-light-a-fire-in-the-wet/), and making a passable comfy shelter so you can enjoy your time in the bush, the next big step is mastering the art of walking. Too many men take overlong strides and land on their heels. I don’t know whether they seek to avoid seeming effeminate by taking over-small steps or what, but it plays hell with the back, feet, and the knees over time. More importantly it makes too much noise in the bush. There are many hunters I can still hear coming – and I am VERY deaf. Besides, there are many different gaits; you should try out some new ones even if you are mistaken for John Cleese’s ‘silly walks’ sketch. There are many lighter gaits which not only make much less noise, but eat up the miles with much less effort. Scientists have even measured the energy required by those African girls who carry large calabashes of water atop their heads and marvel at their energy efficiency. Watch them walk! Walking should be well-nigh effortless. A gliding. Why not try a rolling gait, a sliding gait? Watch people walk: particularly people who appear to effortlessly glide along: lightly built women and children can make a good study, but occasionally you will notice a very large person who seems to float along. Most people clomp hopelessly. Avoid that. You are probably walking badly. At least let those footfalls quieten. Even at 66 and somewhat overweight, I still sometimes walk 20, even thirty kilometres in a day in the bush (carrying a hiking pack). The further you walk, the more deer you will walk past! Remember that. And remember this: if you want to walk uphill without becoming breathless, breathe OUT longer than you breathe IN. Count, if you need to. Make those outward breaths 50% longer than the inward. You will find you can walk all the way to the top without stopping! I KNOW you find this hard to believe. It has something to do with the CO2/O2 exchange and partial pressures...I am not a scientist. Just try it! You will see that it works. After a while it can become automatic.

Different areas have quite different sambar deer. Long ago I used to hunt a particularly steep locale, one of the many ‘Deep Creeks’ – others eschewed it for the selfsame reason, which suited me fine. As I have remarked before, ‘No company is better than bad company’. For whatever reason, the deer there were built like hogs or Texel sheep. They were exceptionally stocky with snub muzzles and short muscular ‘porky’ legs. Much solider than your usual. Another locality in the Maffra area has deer which might have been crossed with some species of antelope: they were MUCH taller and more gracile: what struck you most was their incredibly long muzzles. I hunted a well-nigh unhuntable area in the Upper Thomson for quite a while with the late legendary Arthur Meyers. What an interesting character he was! This area clearly has/had just the right mixture of genetics, micronutrients, hound hunting along the edges, whatever: that it produced quite the biggest sambar ever taken in Australia. Back in 1962 Arthur decked three large stags in as many minutes there which the hounds drove out of a blackberry tunnel so that they all fell, touching each other at his feet. Arthur was persuaded to display one of the smaller of these heads at the 1984 Antlered Game Exhibition where someone (against his will) ranked it with the Douglas Score as being the largest head ever taken up to then – a status it maintained for nearly another twenty years. What folk don’t know is that this was nowhere near the biggest of the three. I have seen the largest of these heads in his home in Box Hill: it was a thing to marvel at! I wonder what became of it after his death. It would almost certainly be the paramount sambar trophy.

His mate took another monster in the same area around 1990 off my outstanding foxhound, ‘Harpoon’. For one reason or another ‘George’ had to camp in the bush that night with his trophy. You MAY need to do this too, so be prepared (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hunting-daypack/) We found him about 8:00am the next morning sitting huddled by a miniature fire, badly needing a drink: we offered him a choice between water and spirits – you can guess which he took first! As I came over a ridge, I saw him part way up the next sitting near a large log – but no sign of the deer. When I was twenty yards away, still puzzled, I blurted out, ‘Where’s the deer, ‘George’?’ More than laconically he gesticulated at the large log! I was astonished! Lying, it was taller than my thigh! This giant stag had fallen side on to the ridge with its legs facing uphill on an approx 15 degree incline. ‘George’ was only a slight man (and had a twisted ankle) so I maybe figured that was why he had been unable to turn it facing downhill so he could gut it properly. I have always prided myself on being stronger than average. I had a BIG try and could not budge it! It was as much as two of us could manage just to turn it over! It was as large as a Hereford bull! The head was so big it would not fit in the rear of their Nissan Patrol so that they had to tie it on the bonnet facing forward where its antlers overhung the car! I have still a very poor 35mm snap somewhere. The photos taken in the darkness of the bush were/are rubbish.

I have spent more than one night out myself eg at c1300 metres up, the ground frozen, a cold wind blowing, snow lying all around, sitting on a thick piece of bark, wet woolen clothes wrapped in one of those pocket-sized ‘emergency space blankets’ in front of a fire which I had to tend on and off all night. It is not the best of camps, but it is utterly survivable. TIP: Nothing is warmer than long-johns – particularly woolen ones! Another TIP: You can pitch a 5’ x 7’ nylon poncho as quite a good dry shelter (with a fire out the front). Tie the centre of one of the 7’ sides to a tree (or stick) about 3’ up, pin out the other 7’ side to the ground taut, bring the remaining two corners in as close as they will come to the tree, again as taut as they will go. Now you have an excellent three-sided waterproof shelter open only on the lee (fire) side and long enough to lie down in. You can heap it with leaf litter for a soft bed & insulation then wrap yourself in a space blanket in it. Some STRING in your pack is always a good idea. I forgot to mention that here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hunting-daypack/ You can even use one of those mylar emergency space blankets in lieu of the poncho. They are surprisingly strong; the wind will not catch and tear them pitched like this. You can roll a teaspoonful of earth into a ball the size of a marble and tie a noose around it, catching the material in the noose in order to guy/tie it out. I hope that’s clear!

Here and there elsewhere you will come across truly giant sambar…in the head of the Aberfeldy, in the Avon wilderness…all sorts of places. Sometimes you will see them, maybe being too astonished to load the gun. A couple of occasions I have been. More often you will just see where they have been: Huge prints on the ground almost as big as a cow’s and a stride a yard long. They are the kings and queens of sambar. They are there to ensure the herd will improve. It is actually better NOT to take them, tempting as it might be. Sometimes they roar like bulls at each other half the night! That is only one of the rewards of oft camping out far from your vehicle.

Harpoon was an excellent tricolour foxhound. During winter his muzzle was always completely naked. He would fly through blackberries like an eel completely disdaining pain, wearing all the hair off. We hunted sambar on Saturday and foxes on Sunday. You could never leave him home on Sunday even if his pads were worn quite off and he could barely lift his head with exhaustion from the day’s Herculean efforts. If you tried, he would climb a six foot electrified fence to come with you. He was a very keen hunter. I have clocked him at over 40kph on the flat. In an easy day he would run 70km. He had a manifold voice. All who heard it swore that there was a pack of hounds voicing – which was how I knew it was Harpoon. One morning he started a large stag at 7:00 am. He was on it by himself all day until another crew shot it about 3:30pm. A walking bail for several hours, but he would not give up! Quite a run. I knew they had; I heard the shot from atop a mountain miles away, and hied myself back to the car so I could cut them off - to tell the truth in case they decided they might just like to keep him. They too had heard him going up and down the river all day, miles from where I was, or could get to - and thought it was someone else’s pack. Many gullies in this area have blackberry thickets twelve foot high and more than a hundred yards across. The guy who shot the stag was quite loth to give the dog up, truth be told: he had fed it all his own tea, and would have shared his beer with it too only Harpoon was teetotal! He offered me $2,000 for him there and then – but I would not have parted with him for far more than that!

Once he put a deer up in Blue Jacket (a tributary of the Jordan) and bailed it on the Glenmaggie Creek just out of Seaton in the afternoon. Some deer have amazing stamina – and some hounds! One day I was hunting with him by myself near Brunton’s Bridge. I often did this – yet over many years I have met only one other solitary hound hunter. He had run a deer along a track there several kms so fast it had no time to step off. When it came to the main road, it crossed but a car cut Harpoon off and spirited him away. I tried mightily to solve the mystery of his disappearance, you can be assured. I only hope it was not a low-life in the area who was reputed to steal and destroy hounds. However, I suspected another person who used to ‘recollar’ dogs and trade them far away. I found a hound (on foot) in the Upper Thomson roughly during the same period. I was on a track, and along came a guy on a motorcycle (illegally actually) who offered to take it out (I had a walk of about ten km). He met up with another chap in a vehicle after a while who offered to return it to its owner. I had noticed the name of the real owner, and happened to ring him. The dog turned up months later with someone else’s collar on him near Healesville! We figured out who the guy who ‘rebadged’ him was, but with no proof he could only be warned. I suspect the dog’s owner did just that. Someone else I know has had hounds shot and left in the bush. There are some mean sods out there; fortunately they are few and far between. The prevalent use of tracking collars has meant a lot fewer ‘lost’ dogs, but are also used unethically to take more deer. I do not understand what sense of achievement such folks can have: It is one thing to traipse all day after hounds maybe walking 30-40 km uphill and down; an old worn-toothed doe taken in a bail-up after such a chase is a trophy indeed. An old girl who has perhaps beaten the hounds consistently for fourteen years! But to drive around the road, to just drop in on a ping on a computer screen for an easy shot – what skill or determination IS there in that?

I know my great-grandfather William Jones hunted with hounds in the Southern Highlands and Hunter Valleys of NSW in the mid C19th. I was with my grandfather George when he took his last hare off his old hound a week before his death 60 years ago near Morpeth NSW. He used to hang them under the top of his verandah until they went green before he ate them. Despite such unsanitary habits he lived to be just shy of ninety when he caught a nasty pneumonia, maybe from too many days hunting in the rain in just an old woolen coat. My father Lawrence was also a keen hound man, though he, alas, did not live long enough to enjoy much leisure. I grew up near Maitland, Paterson, Dora Creek…NSW hound hunting most weekends – in those days it was wallabies, hare, the occasional fox; sometimes a bush pig would come our way – whatever you could put up; mostly it was a recycling exercise as the hounds were fed the ‘catch’ – we did it for the ‘sport.’ We were shotgunners mainly back then. One day on our farm at Paterson with my grandfather, my dad’s old harrier, Felix, put up a goanna and bailed it on my grandfather’s head! He went to his grave just a couple of years later with some interesting scratches on his old bald pate! He had an old Damascus Twist hammer gun, a double barrel. It was deadly at both ends. The stock was split and wired up tight with copper wire. The barrels were worn tissue thin at the end; I imagine it had been his father’s gun too – and had maybe come out from Cambridgeshire with him in 1854. We always expected the barrel to one day unwind like an exploding corkscrew and take half his head off – but it never did! On his death it went to one of my many cousins, though I would have loved it as a keepsake. In his turn my cousin handed it in in one of those many ‘amnesties’ years ago, so it is lost forever now.

I hunted with hounds in our Victorian mountains for over thirty years until just a few years ago when my really bad back (now ‘fixed’) and increasing deafness (I could no longer hear the beagles we now had to have) meant I hardly ever went - which was unfair on the hounds, so I reluctantly gave the last beagles away to a young local hunter. Now I guess I am a stalker – at least a walker. I am keenest now in just being in the bush, marveling at its beauty and diversity, spying out its secret places, walking all day, making a quiet camp, and then the same next day…for often a week or ten days at a time – if I can get away. Oft times I take no rifle. Such solitude is what I call ‘civilisation’: I have scarce ever met anyone in such a place who was other than ‘civilised’. More often than not (it suits me) I meet no-one. He IS a nice man! And excellent company! None who travel so far have need of laws to bind or control them. They have their own resilience and rules of moral conduct and need no others. The worse the roads and tracks are, the more ‘civilised’ the folks are, I have found. The closer you get to better roads and more people, the more riff-raff there are; the greater a need for police, rules and regulations – this is what I think of as barbarism. You don’t have to agree! But I prefer the wild freedom of the mountains. One day you may stumble over my weathering bones under some tree fern on one of your walks. Leave them there. It will be where I wanted to be.

02/08/2015: Sambar Deer Stalking #103:

2006: Ten Days by Myself: Moose Hunting Seaforth River Fiordland - 70 kms (& at least 3 days!) from the Nearest Road

I have been a hunter for over 60 years. I still feel much more thought needs to be given to the ethics of the hunt. It never ceases to amaze me (for example) that Rene Descartes, one of the West’s pre-eminent thinkers (and someone I also recognise as an outstandingly bright hombre cf his contribution to the calculus…) could nonetheless conclude that animals were merely automata; that they did not have souls (as they called it then); that pain they might feel and express (during live dissection for example - YES!) was simply the output of an automaton.

To me, you would not have to have much contact (eg) with our two little Jack Russells before you would conclude that they are intelligent beings, though in many ways different in their intelligence than us. By the same token, you would not have to have much contact with many human beings before you concluded that many had rather less intelligence than our Jack Russells! Before I consult the experts (or received opinion) I first assess carefully the evidence of my own eyes and senses. And think hard upon it. You would do well to do likewise!

Deer ARE sentient beings. They are NOT mere playthings for human beings, nor simply trophies. The Minnesota Dentist who is everywhere on the news at present for ‘hunting’ a ‘protected’ lion in Zimbabwe with a bow and arrow, also so POORLY that it had to be tracked for TWO days before it could be dispatched, is a symptom of a sick attitude to our prey. It is one thing to hunt and kill a deer; it would die someday in any case; a quick clean kill of this year’s ‘surplus’ production is very much better for the deer as a whole than pitiful starvation (or cruel poisoning), the alternative consequence of an unmanaged population. Nonetheless, there is a right way and a wrong way to go about this ancient activity (hunting). Respect for the prey animal must be paramount, or else the anti-hunters have the stronger case - and we deserve to have our recreation outlawed! Mind you, I have no sympathy for Mugabe who recently ATE many more ‘protected’ wildlife than the Minnesota dentist, but also some years back murdered one of my dear gentle friends.

There are some elements which have not just crept into hunting practice – they have well nigh overwhelmed it. In hound hunting, for example, there is a near universal use of vehicles, radios, tracking collars, GPS and computers as an ‘aid’ to the ‘hunt’, even though ALL are illegal. Such practice is NOT a hunt. All these electronic aids are just as unfair as spotlights and game finders, and ought not be used. Already you have a GUN: that is surely unfair enough? Stalkers are overwhelmingly using camo, trail cameras, hides, tree stands, scent lures, telescopic sights, etc. ALL these things are just as bad, and ought to be outlawed, in my opinion. It is impossible to police such things, of course. It is just that if people cannot hold to enough ethics to eschew such immoral behaviour, then the anti-hunters (and they are the majority after all) will have a field day with us! It is easy for them to know what we do: folk boast about it in magazines and forums all the time.

Most of my deer hunting has been in horrible inaccessible country pretty much that no-one else would hunt. I mentioned (in a previous post) hunting for many years with the ‘legendary’ Arthur Meyers. Much of this hunting was behind the locked gates (legally) in the Upper Thompson catchment where we had to walk the hounds in on leashes for an average of seven kilometres before we began a hunt. Most of the tracks there then were permanently closed (MVO). ALL our hunting was on foot. We returned to our vehicles (if we were lucky – sometimes we were not) only at the very end of the day (usually after dark) after walking for about twelve hours through very rough, thick, steep country, riddled with mineshafts! We each had a four hour drive each way to get there. At least we had no need of a 4WD! Usually we arrived home over 24 hours after we had left.

Arthur used to call us ‘the last of the hound hunters’ because that was mostly what we did: hunt for the hounds! In that country CB radios worked infrequently and very poorly, so each of us (usually 3-4) was typically on his own from dawn to dusk with nothing but our eyes, ears and native intelligence to guide us. Time enough then to chew the fat and a sausage over a cook-up about your part in the day’s hunt – and everyone else’s. We took deer infrequently, and with great difficulty. We carried the meat out with even more difficulty. We richly earned every deer we took, and the deer had as good a chance as we did; probably better. One stag who used to camp near the Ross Creek Hut ruins I practically knew by name!

Arthur was a very fit man. I can remember talking to him on the radio one afternoon; I had just struggled up out of Blue Jacket and the Dry Creek onto the Mount Victor Spur; I asked him where he was, ‘I’m just running up the Bald Hill Track’ was his answer (he was 65 at the time; AND it was a VERY steep track), ‘The dogs have gone over into the Red Jacket and I am going after them’. (There was a ridge you could follow down.) ‘I’ll meet you at the bottom (junction)’ I said, and off I went too to our rendezvous approx seven km away through the bush. You can have a look at the maps: it is big country: we mostly walked 20-40 kilometres on a day’s hunt.

I remember another day meeting up with him after many hours, miles from camp. Yarning, whilst listening to one of his bloodhounds (Thunder?) working a gully above us, a giant tree just suddenly and silently crashed to the ground right next to us, the tips of its branches whipping our legs as it fell. There would have been nothing we could have done to avoid death had we been standing 20 yards closer. On the other hand most folks die in bed, therefore as my grandfather used to say, ‘Bed is a dangerous place and should be avoided’. Most of my hunting life I have chosen places where I would have a vertical climb of 350-750 metres sometime during the day (sometimes several times!) What virtue is there in an ‘easy deer’?

I notice a lot of people nowadays who expect to stroll out on their first or second hunt and take a sambar. I think it would be just as reasonable if they never took a deer until their second or third YEAR of hunting - if they were giving the deer half a chance! Or if they never even SAW a deer in their first year! What is the hurry? We all eat well in Australia. We are not hunting for survival; we are hunting FOR THE HUNT! Learn to hunt FIRST. If you love hunting, you will not be rapacious about setting tallies. If we are going to abandon the ethics of the hunt, we will not be hunting much longer!

There are all these chaps who must have a big head on the wall, but you and I know that many of them were taken in the lights or from a fixed position informed by their trail cam’s data, or even from a thousand yards away. This is NOT hunting. This is EGO. How many wounded animals are left to suffer and die because of this unethical behaviour? Over the years I have found some horrifically injured deer who survived awfully - for a time! I was once drawn by the awful noise to a moaning, blubbering young stag whose bottom jaw had been blown off and was flyblown! Creatures who do have feelings and souls – even if Descartes did not think so. Descartes was WRONG. He was just as wrong believing that he had invented a proof of the existence of God (the cogito ergo sum’ argument). Or indeed in thinking that there WAS any God at all!

When I see your spotlights, I want to cock my rifle and aim at them: that would give you about the same chance as you were giving the deer. When I see your trail cams I want to do just the same thing. Such wicked devices are much more ‘fair game’ (for me) than a deer is at the end of a telescopic sight, or at a thousand yards. (I realise some people just want the pics). I think everyone should have to use iron sights (except cullers) so that they would have to learn to hunt (and shoot), to get close to where the deer are, to track and identify the deer and take them with great difficulty and skill - in remote locations.

I sometimes see people with whole deer on their vehicles. Who do they think they are kidding that they are hunters? Have you ever TRIED to carry a whole sambar deer (even a small hind) any significant distance – and almost always uphill (a long way) from where you likely would have taken it through rough, thick bush? I have, and I used to be pretty strong.

Many people are proprietorial about their favourite hunting spots. I know I am. Territoriality is common in both deer and men. I have had to go back through the many posts which mentioned locales here, and edit out the most precise clues. I had noticed how people were tracking through my website, opening this post after that, clearly giving away that they wanted a tip on the best spot for them to go. Some even sent emails, or tried to solicit invitations despite my oft repeated homily, ‘No company is better than bad company!’ One place I recently wrote about had received other visitors next time I visited – even though clearly no-one else but me had been there for years!

One thing that separates out the sportsman or the hunter from the wanton slaughterer or trophy seeker: is energy and self-pride. The latter are slovens and want only the easiest way. The true hunter will go out of his way to make the chase difficult, so that there is a sense of achievement in obstacles overcome. A ‘friend’ has decided that he will take a group of eight this weekend for a week’s hunting to a spot I injudiciously mentioned to him – even (as an afterthought) telling me I would be welcome TOO! You wish. What s/he ignores is that where I park my car will be at least a day’s journey, probably more, (in this case 3-4) from where I hunt – so they are not likely to benefit overmuch from my parking spot. Still it does irk, I know.

Of course if it WAS my favourite spot they ought have pretty much cleared it out for some time to come – at least if they had any competency at all. It is clearly what they wish for anyway. And what good is that? Eight! That is a small army! It is too dangerous a number for a small(ish) area. As it happens the forecasts tell me they will have few river crossings, much damp bush and damper, colder clothing. I might have taken ONE person (I often have, in the past), even two perhaps, (my two boys perhaps?) but never eight – and never (others) if I suspected they were planning to return without me!

I used often to take young hunters ‘under my wing’ in this way, first teaching them the essentials: 1. How to light a fire in the rain; 2. Meticulous firearms safety and competency; 3 How to ‘read’ the lie of the ground, 4 How to get ‘unlost’, 5 Tracks and browse; 6 Deer (and other nature) behaviour…etc. I have spent overmuch time hunting for such folks when they become ‘lost’ – and I have experienced more times than I wish to repeat (ever) their ingratitude, so no more.

It seems to me that anyone can study the maps: first (perhaps) the GMA’s maps of where it is lawful to hunt – whether you obey them is your business: there is nothing unlawful (you would think) in hunting with a camera or your eyes only, but unbelievably there IS! Then road and topographical maps, wildfire maps, etc. Work out for yourself where a good spot might be. Go there for a few days. Have a Look-See. You don’t need a ‘serious’ 4WD. You have FEET! There is a lot of bush out there – quite enough that we should not be squabbling over it. I particularly like wilderness areas, mostly because I almost always have them to myself, not because there are more deer there. I love the solitude. There are most deer along the road - or in some farmer’s paddock where it is legal to shoot them with a spotlight and put them on the wall just as if it was some significant achievement! Personally I always regret having killed.

I am always looking first whether there will be a pleasant place to camp, as I like to return to a beautiful spot again and again. Experts will tell you that you should never camp on top of a hill (too cold and windy) or in the bottom of a valley (too cold and wet), but somewhere half way up a ridge. Experts will also tell you that it is impossible for a bumble bee to fly! I like a flat spot (with water) out of the wind with plentiful firewood. It does not have to be very big. The ‘footprint’ of my http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-solo-fire-shelter/ is less than 6’ x 6’. It will usually be my home again and again, so I probably spend more time hunting IT than hunting deer. It is often harder to find! Fresh fish are also always welcome!

Valleys which are dry where they join the main stream still frequently run much higher up. Sometimes there is a soak right at the top. Deer which inhabit such a valley will have no need to ever visit the river for a drink – particularly the large stags. A small flat in such a position is a gem indeed. Sometimes where a side gully comes in, but there may be a small level bench almost anywhere.

You CAN camp in a hammock (I often have – both my own and Tom Hennessy’s) – it can be very pleasant. I find it hard to stay on my mat in his – Della does not. The hammock’s virtues are comfort plus, and that you can camp on any slope. Wet ground is also no impediment. Hammock camping with a fire is more difficult than ground camping, so it may be more pleasant in the warmer months. You would normally pitch the hammock side-on to the wind, so that you would need to lift (and prop) one side of the tarp to be warmed by the fire – and peg it down when you turn in for the night. The hammock will not keep your back so warm as the shelter above. Also, when you sleep in a hammock you MUST have a well-insulated sleeping mat – or you will freeze! It is also much harder finding a spot where two can hang nearby each other, though it IS possible to double-bunk. My wife often accompanies me on these travels – though her failing eyesight is making this increasingly difficult, alas, and alas for many other reasons: she is a much better cook than I for one thing! The lightest hammock camping arrangement I can find/make is 160 grams for the hammock and less than 100 grams for a cuben fly: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hammock-camping/

You need to plan your approach to these wilderness areas: for example, following ridgelines is always easiest but it is dry work. I hate carrying scads of water vast distances. Sometimes you have to. For example, there is little water on the various possible Mt Darling circuits. They are cooler places to walk in the hotter weather though because of their elevation. Badly denuded of game by wildfires though latterly. You might think about moving uphill as the weather warms – but water will be scarcer, so knowing where it IS, is crucial info. You want to minimise your route as much as you can, but also it is pleasant to have a large circuit you can enjoy: one with 3-7 separate camping spots so you are always staying somewhere different – and do not exhaust the wood supply at your camping spots. Of course you only need a fire in the cooler months. Each camp might only be another hour or two’s walk from the last. You can always move on to your next camp if (unlikely) you encounter others. Plan what you are going to do – or what you believe you are going to do. Remember though, everything is subject to change without notice! Also, it is foolish to be in the bush without a sat phone! Dicing with danger is one thing; courting death quite another!

Mostly when I visit such places I am happy just to see the deer (and other creatures). I have no need any more to kill things for egotistical reasons. Knowing that I could have (had I wished) is satisfaction enough of a job well done. I have tried in all these pages to recommend some gear (and other tricks) which might safely get you to such spots (and back again) – and what I hope is some useful advice. I trust you have some time to browse, and maybe recommend them to your friends eg by ‘Liking’ my Facebook page, not just the individual posts! There are over 450 posts now, so you will be reading for a while yet.

01/05/2016: Does Spot like to hunt deer?

This is our Jack Russell, Spot. Does Spot like to hunt deer? Say, ‘Yes’ Spot. Good Dog! Spot is three years old. He came into our lives as a 40th wedding anniversary present. Perhaps we should have called him ‘Ruby’, but ‘Spot’ seems to fit him best. He is the greatest Jack Russell in the world. Aren’t you Spot? You see! This is my very first Gif. I will get better at it. Expect to see some more of them and other video content over time. Perhaps you missed this video already though : http://www.theultralighthiker.com/videos/thomson-river-canoe-trip-2006-complete/

Spot is learning to flush and bail. Every night we take the dogs for a five km walk somewhere around the Jeeralangs where we live. The area is heavily forested with innumerable solitary tracks. We never see anyone else walking or driving, so it is nice. We see lots of kangaroos and wallabies. These are good practice. Sometimes we see any of four species of deer which have become relatively common hereabouts: red, sambar, fallow and hog deer. Spot is getting a little practice on them. Soon it will be cool enough to head for the mountains with him again where there will be mostly only sambar deer (lots of them!) and very little other game.

When I say, ‘Fetch ’em out’ you should see him move! There are some deer out there who are in for a big surprise this year! The great thing about Jack Russells is they are as game as Ned Kelly yet they are so compact they require very little food on a hunting trip, and they will fit in your sleeping bag with you – though Spot has his own – soon to be an ultralight one, approx 100 grams! Sambar deer don’t tend to run from them. They bail, and whilst bailed pretty much ignore me and focus on the dog. This is very foolish of them – but they are tasty! Are they yummy Spot? You see!

I am pretty much finished the roof of my new tent. I am just sewing some reinforcing at the peak and the beak tonight, and some tie outs there for hanging my lantern/torch (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/mini-super-torch-a-weeks-light-weighs-50-grams/) – and stringing a clothesline, that is after working in the vegie garden all day. Tomorrow I will start on the bathtub floor. This tent is going to be able to sleep four people and will weigh less then 800 grams including the floor, pegs, guys, stuff sack etc – and you can have a fire just outside to warm it. It will weigh in at about 400 grams in cuben fibre – I intend to make another in .63oz/yd camo cuben with a 1oz/yd floor. I am quite gobsmacked about it – and will be posting about it when it is finished, and maybe after I have taken it on a little expedition somewhere. I had better also finish Spot’s new sleeping bag! Back to work! Did you know Spot has a raincoat: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-jack-russell-rain-coat-13-grams/

30/06/2015: Hunting in Fiordland:

Head of the Jane Burn near Loch Marie looking towards Dusky Sound.

It is incredibly difficult. Some ‘easier’ areas (eg along the South Coast Track) are flatter and safer. There are both pigs and deer there. In NZ they have these excellent DOC (‘Dept of Conservation’) huts all over the place (roughly a solid day’s walk apart with a pack; all have a helipad) which make good accommodation at mostly $5 a night, eg in ‘the rut’ – which in those latitudes is late March-early April when the bush comes alive with the loud roaring of the red stags, or strange bugling call of the Wapiti. There is also a handful of us who have heard (much earlier in March) the echoing call of the moose – both sexes call, but differently. It is astonishingly loud: it needs to be for them to hear each other even with those huge ears over the vast distances. It is nothing to them to leap into one of the Fiords and swim several kilometres across to join up with a mate on the opposite side. Those vast long legs are excellent for forest travel. They can step over shoulder high logs which I have trouble scrambling over. I have found their thumb-sized droppings on the top of just such logs. They are big critters – nearly as large as a Clydesdale!

There are often clearings along rivers (and on slips, see hillside).

Lighting a fire in the huts is now more difficult as ‘environmentalists’ have mandated that all the old ‘pot belly’ stoves be replaced by these newfangled ‘pollution-free’ models which simply will not take a fire – and certainly will not boil a billy! Such is progress! Mind you the bush is so wet it is hard to get dry wood, which is petty scarce nearby the huts anyway. With the new stoves installed I seldom bother. Some huts are supplied with wood. Usually they cost $10!

Everywhere you point the camera is this beautiful serene forest.

The ‘roar’ is the best time to go as that is when the Kiwis are out in the bush outnumbering the hordes of backpacking tourists, so there is opportunity to make some useful contacts with them, swap hunting stories, perhaps invite them across to Gippsland for reciprocal visits, etc. These guys really know how to hunt deer. High up on the tops in odd spots there remain a few Thar and Chamois, but not many. The best places to take the reds is near the leatherwood fringe of the snowgrass treelines which universally reek of stags, near forest clearings along river bottoms, clearings near the sea, on newish slips etc. In the roar, it is much easier to take stags in forested areas as they will come to your call much like puppies! It IS a good idea to have a blaze orange hat though as fellow hunters also sometimes come to your answering call, as has happened to me a couple of times! Not the sort of contact you necessarily want to make with Kiwi hunters – though I am told an Aussie trophy on the wall is highly valued! So, beware!

As I say, there are morasses.

Many places have astonishing morasses which are something to avoid. It is VERY wet there (over 10 metres of annual rainfall), so if you sink into one of these beauties, you may disappear from sight. The going is rough enough in lowland forest and along river bottoms, but when you head up the ‘Burns’ which fringe the fiords or begin to climb the walls of the fiords themselves it is hard to believe. But this is where the moose are. You need to remember that fiords were carved out during ice ages; ie they are the remains of glaciers, so their sides and bottoms are one vast moraine field. A nightmare jumble of giant boulders which, over the years have more or less filled with soil and debris – but there remain deadly moraine holes you may slip down in to your detriment, or death! I have slipped suddenly down into one which was head high. Now I walk carefully, trying to test whether the ground will take my weight each step; you need to step carefully ever ready to throw yourself forward or backwards if you feel yourself falling.

Above (and below) the treeline, the going can be very steep.

Above the snowline is much easier as you can much better spy out the ‘lay of the land’, but the going is frequently precipitous and the ground loose or shaly and prone to awesome slips. Getting ‘bluffed out’ on forested slopes is far too easy. This happens when your descent is interrupted by a perpendicular fall – if you proceed! You know how much easier it is here to follow a ridge to the top than to follow it to the bottom. How many times have you ended up in the side gully rather than the main stream unless you pay close attention? Over there the ground is much more riven. There are innumerable ‘gullies’ so that you very frequently cannot find your way back down. You OFTEN have to re-ascend and search for another route. You must ALWAYS be prepared for a night (or two) out. The worst thing you can do in such a situation is panic or hurry. Or worse risk a dangerous descent. Much better to camp out. Of course that is not easy on steep slopes. In Fiordland you will only manage to travel a fraction (1/3?) of the distance you would normally make in Gippsland.

Lake Roe Hut right on the leatherwood fringe.

In NZ I always carry a hammock. There are, after all plenty of trees. A hammock swung between any two trees makes a flat spot out of the worst slopes. In Oz a 7’ x 7’ tarp will usually suffice. In silnylon such a tarp weighs less than 250 grams (with tie-outs). In .5oz/sq yd cuben fibre the same tarp weighs less than 100 grams! In NZ I would go for at least an 8’ x 8’. The lightest hammock (the ‘nano’) weighs 160 grams including dyneema suspension cord. Where it rains a lot, I would probably opt for a slightly larger tarp. We have a home-made cuben tarp with ‘storm-doors’ at each end which will keep you dry in the worst downpours and which weighs 200 grams. This is what I usually carry in Fiordland. If there are two of you, it is possible to swing two hammocks under one tarp, but you need to ‘boost’ the lighter person into the upper hammock. My wife is small enough I can manage this. Cuben fibre comes in slightly narrower widths than ‘normal’ cloth (eg silnylon, etc = 5’ wide; cuben = 4’6’), so you can sew/tape two pieces to make a rectangular tarp 9’ wide and long enough to completely shelter your hammock whilst allowing the ends to meet at the bottom (11-12’). You need to learn how (not) to tie a hammock to two trees. If you tie any ordinary knot, after you have lain in the hammock you will NEVER get the cords untied! The TRICK is to pass the cord around the tree, then around itself, then around the tree again (at least three turns); then a simple running hitch or even tucking the end under one of the loops will hold it there, yet it will not lock up and be impossible to untie. If you are really concerned about the cord cutting into the bark you can protect it with a few short lengths of finger-thick twigs.

Cuben tarp pitched as a fire tent with one flap closed.

The other great thing about a hammock and tarp is that being so easy to erect, they make a pleasant dry spot to stop for a break, a cuppa, lunch etc. It is quite delightful to be lying back during a rest stop in the comfort of the hammock while you wait for the billy to boil (on the Brasslite Stove) under the tarp. If you have a cuben tarp which is quite translucent (you can see right through it), the view is just delightful. Night-time thunderstorms viewed through it are quite spectacular. Like Tyvek it makes a pleasant drumming (reminiscent of a corrugated iron roof) in the rain.

The birds are incredibly friendly, though rare.

A satellite phone is a MUST in NZ. Frankly I am astonished by the majority of folk here not having one. Other people squander $50,000+ on a fancy 4WD (frequently one unsuitable for off-road conditions!) and lots of other fancy gear (bizarre unwieldy, impractical camo clothing & etc) but cannot ‘afford’ even a 2^nd hand sat. phone at maybe $600, which could so easily save their lives. Clearly their lives ARE worthless! The helicopter pilots are so good (and the ‘medevac’ so well organised) that half an hour after you call, you can be flying to hospital. I have had to call in a chopper for quite a number of folk over the years, including my wife! Be warned: they fly a few human bodies out of the Seaforth alone every year!

Looking South into the Seaforth from near Centre pass - you can see how difficult some of the going is. Imagine climbing Tripod Hill in the centre.

The SILENCE of the Fiordland bush is astonishing. There is so much moss: it covers every surface in a deep carpet and shrouds the tree-trunks completely; it is also SO wet, all sounds are muted save the ever-present sound of water, flowing, raining, dripping. Here we are used to the cacophony of the evening chorus and to birdsong as so constant a companion we are scarcely aware of it. In Fiordland the stoat and possum has reduced birdlife to a spectral presence, a brooding silence. Less than 1% of 1% remain. They never had anything like the avian richness we are used to (close enough to a thousand species); they never had a hundred. Most are so terribly rare you will never see them. The fantails and robins are the most common; they are even friendlier than they are here. They will alight on your foot or pack, or on a stem within inches of your face. It is so silent, I have been working up one side of a gully while my friend worked the other (as you do!) At one point I caught sight of him less than fifty yards away. Thinking to stop for a yarn, I blew as hard as I could on my Fox 40 whistle (louder than a 747 taking off!), but the moss and the wet just soaked the sound away. He could not hear me. If you hunt with someone else (I usually don’t – which may one day be my undoing, particularly in Fiordland – you only die once!), a radio is a good idea: I would invest in an Aloksak waterproof bag to carry it in.

I spent all day (unsuccessfully) trying to get up past this waterfall.

It is the topography that draws one back there: the utterly superb views (especially in the Fiords), mountains which seem to have just come off some master’s brush…and the wonderful, magical medieval forest; utterly unlike anything we see here.

Regrowth fuschia on a giant slip, Kenneth Burn - a favourite moose food plant. An acre here had been moose trimmed last time I passed.

Of course there are the innumerable sandflies. You simply MUST be prepared for these: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/insects-can-ruin-a-camping-trip/ You will not believe how many there are. If you fly in somewhere (eg to Supper Cove - recommended), and have forgotten to apply the repellent (I specified) before you land, the minute you step out of the plane/chopper every bare piece of skin will turn instantly black with them. People are reputed to have killed themselves to end the torture of them. I can well believe it. They are as large as mosquitoes. My suggested remedies WORK. Many others do not. Be warned.

Regarding flying: if you have $10,000 to spare, spend it on flying around those fiords in a helicopter or float plane. You will never regret it. The views are just mind-blowing. One girl I had flown out with a badly injured knee said afterwards she was glad she had injured it or she would never have had such a flight. There are two main operators at Te Anau: Southern Lakes Helicopters (http://www.southernlakeshelicopters.co.nz/) and Wings and Water http://www.wingsandwater.co.nz/ . Both provide great service – but it is not cheap. The best way to economise is to share a ride. Often if you can wait a couple of days, they can organise to take you in or pick you up as a ‘back load’ - meaning that someone else is paying for the return journey.

Seven Gilled Shark Supper Cove Hut.

The fishing in the Fiords is truly wonderful (and easy), so don’t forget at least a good handline, some basic tackle and some bait (it doesn’t matter what). You will very easily catch a ‘Spotty’ which you can cut up for bait for larger, better fish such as the delectable Blue Cod. There are many others: groper, barracuda, seven finned shark…For your first trip there, I wouldn’t plan to take a gun. It’s just an extra 3.5 kg to carry. Plan to do a lot of walking and looking around. If you still want to hunt there, do so on a subsequent trip – or just buy a better camera. They are much lighter, after all.

Good leatherwood/snowgrass fringes like this are a deer magnet.

I usually fly Melbourne-Queenstown (service not always available) starts some time mid March usually, instead of Christchurch. Similarly Melbourne-Dunedin cuts out about then too. Doing this saves a day’s travel and accommodation each way (if you have already seen the South Island) – otherwise plan a more extended trip. Try the Webjet website as well as the individual airlines for the cheapest flights. There is an optimal time before your trip when the flights are always cheapest, somewhere like about a month out. Earlier or later is dearer. That being said, I always book the day before I go, because I always go when the weather is going to be best. You may not have that luxury. One day you too will be retired! I have found Southern Tasmanian rainfall plus approx two days good enough for Southern NZ that I have not had my raincoat out of my pack there the last four trips! http://www.eldersweather.com.au/raindates.jsp I also find the NOAA's 16 day rainfall forecast excellent: http://ready.arl.noaa.gov/READYcmet.php

I usually stay in the backpackers or the caravan park in Te Anau for the couple of nights I am not in the bush or staying in the DOC huts. There are a couple of quite good supermarkets in Te Anau, a really good hunting/gun shop, hardware, and a number of other businesses catering to hikers and tourists. Naturally I usually have a meal in the Moose Bar! Even so, I usually take my dehydrated food from Australia as I like to know I can eat it: you have to make sure it was made in NZ/Oz and has country of origin labelling and barcodes. I usually use these guys to work out who has the cheapest car hire: http://cheapcarhire.co.nz/ There are two jet-boat operators on the Wairaurahiri River in Tuatapere. You have to book. One also takes passengers up Lake Hauroko for the Dusky Track. A jet-boat ride down that river is absolutely wonderful. As is a stay in the delightful Waitutu Lodge where it joins the sea – a great luxury base for hunting, as is the lodge at Port Craig. Forget about the Shotover! There are approx six boats crossing Lake Manapouri each day (at the other end of the Dusky Track – most are taking people to Doubtful Sound; better than Milford!). You don’t have to book these. Just check when the last one leaves. There is a DOC hut at West Arm if you miss it – but if you have just walked the Duskt Track, you will also miss your first cold beer for nearly ten days!

It is a bit of a fiddle, but you can get a permit to export and import your gun, obtain a NZ shooters’ licence, apply for a balloted area & etc. I have done so in the past, but these days I would just as soon hunt with a camera, or just sightsee.

That is my glasses case in a sandwich bag. Next to it is a very large deer print – for comparison a red deer print on the right!

If you want to learn more, you will notice that I have posted about the Dusky Track and the South Coast Tracks (especially) a number of times over the years. Scroll back through my old posts and you will come across some more information. Have a great trip!

Books to read:

Ken Tustin: Wild Moose Chase

Max Curtis: Beyond the River's bend

Ray Tinsley: Call of the Moose

22/06/2015: FIORDLAND MOOSE: Contrary to popular culture, these monsters are NOT a myth, but alive and well and living in Fiordland. My own observations are that they are quite widely dispersed. This is more than confirmed by Ken Tustin’s Herculean efforts over 40 years to spot just ONE of them. During many trips along the Seaforth River (still probably their ‘headquarters’) I have seen lots of moose sign, a glimpse of one once, another calling once. I also noticed some sign much further East along the South Coast Track: pretty clear (very old) browse between the Francis Burn and the Percy Burn; even some possible sign as far East as the Waikoau River. A moose was seen this far East many years ago. Recent moose sign has been found as far North as Campbell’s Kingdom in Doubtful Sound. If this is so. Moose are dispersed over more than half the Fiordland National Park albeit in very small numbers and low density – but they remain THERE! You will not likely see one (and I hope you don’t essay to shoot one), but I understand there remains a prize of NZ$100,000 for a new authentic snapshot of one! So, it is very worth the trip: the Dusky Track is very beautiful; a truly wonderful hiking adventure – and you MAY just see a moose! Put it on YOUR Bucket List. I will certainly be returning once more. This is what I long to see:

Fred Stewardson (78), of Hikurangi, in Northland, took the photographs on a hunting trip to Wet Jacket Arm in 1953.

MOOSE HUNTING: Watched Ken Tustin’s new doco http://www.stealthfilms.co.nz/dvds/dvd005-bundle.html which I mentioned the other day. If you are interested in great scenery, Fiordland, the origin of the moose herd there or just hunting generally you will find something to captivate you here (for a mere $10). On every ‘expedition’ there I have found ‘moose sign’ whilst hunting about in the Seaforth Valley: tracks, droppings, browse, barking for example. I also caught a glimpse of one in the Hilda Burn years ago, heard a bull moose calling from the Waterfall Burn, in 2006 I just missed seeing one crossing the Seaforth out of the Roa Stream (I could still HEAR splashing back then); I was about a week behind one which chewed down all the vegetation around the Supper Cove Hut in 2009. In 2012 I was about as far behind one which had been living amongst the fuschia and had devastated about an acre of it above the Kenneth Burn – these are cherished experiences. Ken’s careful explanations makes these observations a lot clearer. For example, I had been mystified by a number of saplings laid on the ground and partially barked. Ken explains the moose technique of walking trees down. I am now also a lot more focussed on the differences between red/wapiti sign and moose sign – not that I had any doubt that most of what I had (correctly) identified as moose sign WAS just that. I am ever hopeful that I CAN get myself fit enough for an expedition from Supper Cove up the Henry Burn, then down Herrick Creek to Wet Jacket Arm Dusky Sound (and back, maybe via the Hilda Burn). Age is (unfortunately) catching up with me. You would not BELIEVE just how hard the going IS there. It is little wonder that very few moose have ever been taken/seen. I continue to believe that the best chance of ‘putting one up’ is by following streams (as quietly as one can!) in the warmer months - as I believe they spend a lot of time lying in the water, cooling off. The one I put up in the Hilda Burn had been doing this, and just about every one taken in the past was shot very close to a stream too. It would be SO great to get a pic of one! For your delectation, here are a couple more snaps of the great Eddie Herrick’s 1934 (Herrick Creek) bull moose (You WILL notice that he was nearly my age):

VENERY: This is one of my all-time favourite photos. The chap above with the moose on his shoulders was Eddie Herrick circa 1934 in his eponymous creek in Wet Jacket Arm, Dusky Sound, Fiordland NZ with his bull moose. In a moose hunting career in Fiordland which involved Eddie hunting there for nearly three months a year for thirty years (that’s TEN YEARS) of his life, Eddie bagged three of these beasties out of less than ten shot altogether by anyone, Such is dedication. For fifteen years I have been travelling back to this area myself for stays of about a week-ten days just to totally ignore the astonishing scenery and wondrous sense of remoteness, the wilderness challenges etc in the hope that I might catch another glimpse of a Fiordland moose, maybe even capture a photograph of one. The greatest (live) moose hunter is Ken Tustin who has searched endlessly for them since approx 1970! You can see a preview of his most recent documentary here: https://vimeo.com/55687840 or you can download it all (for a mere $10) here: http://www.stealthfilms.co.nz/dvds/dvd005-bundle.html

24/02/2015: Moose cascades:

01/06/2014: There is a story going around on the net about a chap who has (so far) succeeded in shooting 13 LIONS (or elephants; anyway the article is always accompanied by a photo of him with various grisly remains!) And GOOD FOR HIM! Alas, we cannot ALL have the opportunity to bag innumerable elephants, pandas, platypodes, blue whales, etc - though I am sure we have all read all Teddy Roosevelt’s hunting books, etc but, here is an interesting book about a chap who satisfied his venality with the pursuit of RATS, ‘Tales of a Rat-Hunting Man’ (by Brian Plummer – I see he wrote many other fascinating books too, and was, like me a devotee of the Jack Russell terrier. Well DONE, Brian: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brian_Plummer) This fascinating adventure story contains many riveting accounts of his pursuit of the wily rodent through the maggot factories and rubbish tips of England. Why he even (once) pursued his prey through the decomposing body of a circus elephant, which recalls my own adventures hunting foxes out of the carcass of a large beached whale many years ago! I note Roald Dahl ‘stole’ one of his excellent (Claud) bar stories about rat hunting from Brian. (http://www.roalddahlfans.com/shortstories/ratc.php ) Lo, how the mighty are fallen! Here is a review of this excellent tome: ‘After the initial shock of even considering a rat-catching professional, the title and content of this book are intriguing. The rat is "the unheralded game-animal of Great Britain," so much so that its proponents are feared and reviled as not quite "right." But from the time D. Brian Plummer received his first rat terrier at the age of 10, he dedicated himself to the sport of rat-catching using either dogs or ferrets. He actually enjoys killing rats and is pleased to share his techniques. Thank goodness for Plummer's wit and charm, which make the experience of reading about such nasty creatures a delight.’ It IS available here: http://www.amazon.com/Tales-Hunting-David-Brian-Plummer/dp/1906486271 Here’s Roald: ‘he tries to make amends with the men by showing them some rat tricks. He pulls a rat out of his pockets ("Always got a rat or two about me somewhere.") and drops it down the neck of his shirt. Then he drops in a ferret he pulled out of another pocket. A frantic chase and fight ensue in the shirt, and eventually the ratcatcher pulls out the dead rat and the bloody ferret. After that performance, he claims he can do something even more amazing: he can kill a rat himself without using his hands or arms or legs or feet. He gets Claud to bet him a shilling that he can't. He produces another live rat and they tie it to a car antenna. The ratcatcher begins to stare at the rat, moving closer and closer, until finally he strikes like a snake with his mouth open and his yellow teeth biting. The narrator closes his eyes, and when he opens them the ratcatcher is collecting his money and spitting out blood.’ I DO like THAT line, ‘Always got a rat or two about me somewhere’. I WANT it for my VERY own! I remember when I was a child most times having a ferret about my person (eg inside my shirt) too. This is a sadly neglected foible nowadays.

16/01/2015: Many ‘moral issues’ are a matter of FACT and arithmetic - rather than opinion. A case in point: lots of folks seem to get their jollies out of posting condemnatory photos of (usually wealthy American) trophy hunters with the animal s/he has paid (handsomely) to HARVEST, (as if it were a complete non sequitur that such conduct is universally EVIL). Every creature lives, and dies. This is a universal truth. The quality of that life and the time and type of death varies. In the case of trophy (as farm) animals, considerable financial & other resources (land, etc) are diverted to ensure they have a (healthy) life. Yet nothing is done to control ‘wild’ reproduction. In such a circumstance any creature will quickly breed itself to the limit of its available resources when its population will be controlled by (the dread Horsemen) disease and starvation. Each year in Australia, for example, over 90% of ducklings would (normally?) fall to such crueller deaths, so it is in fact kinder to allow this excess population to be humanely harvested for human use, and (dare I say it?), pleasure. It is NO different with elephants, rhinoceroses or polar bears etc. If (indeed) their survival as a species (factually and economically) relies on their having a commercial value, eg as trophies - the alternative being that the PEOPLE on whose land they live starve - or they cease to exist, this is GOOD wildlife management, and in no way morally evil, as the bleeding hearts would have us BELIEVE. I do SO abhor BELIEF:

GUNS: MY .308s: I own TWO of these beauties, both presents from Della. Both are Browning (‘Lightning’) Lever Action models (BLRs). She bought me the first as a silver wedding anniversary present back in 1998 (and I should have shot a MOOSE with it in the Hilda Burn, Fiordland NZ in 2000…Oh Well!) The second (a take-down model) she bought for my 60^th birthday in 2009. You can’t get a better wife than THAT! A ‘take-down’ model is one which ‘breaks’ in half so it will fit in your pack (a very handy feature) or under the seat in the camper. I now have two carbon fibre hiking poles (thanks AGAIN TO Della this Xmas) which are short enough (they also are two-piece) to fit in my pack when not in use. This means I can use them after I have stowed my gun. Each weighs about 100 grams, while the rifle weighs 2900 grams. This is a great boon if my back is playing up (often, unfortunately) or if I am very tired and/or the going is quite rough: you have MANY fewer falls when using hiking poles and they make walking 40% easier. She ordered the two shortened poles (each section is 2’ long) at no extra cost as a special from http://www.rutalocura.com/ which seems to be an offshoot of the excellent http://titaniumgoat.com/ (Recommend you view website AND especially LINKS!) Some ‘Big Game’ hunters claim you need a much bigger gun than the .308 (which was the lightest of the ‘short-action’ high-powered rifles until the new Winchester Magnum round came along, and excluding the .30-30 and .375 Winchester Magnum rounds - it gets confusing). Anyway, to use a .30-06 (or larger, ‘long-action’) you need to carry maybe a kilo more of steel, which gets tiresome as you get older! Some of the ‘big guns’ such as the .457 Magnum are just TOO big for me at least. The ‘little’ .308 (which used to be the ‘standard’ NATO round - and was the one used in the 100,000 SLRs John Howard ‘gifted’ to Indonesia after Port Arthur, along with a BILLION rounds of ammo in order to make us SAFE!) will ‘spit out’ a nearly half oz. of lead at over 3,000 feet per second. (Imagine those in the hands of 100,000 INVADING troops, if you please!) In my experience this is quite sufficient to seriously discommode even the largest sambar stag (but may not work so well on an elephant! Though it WOULD on a moose!) Carrying those extra kilos is fine for the young and gung-ho, but the .308 is enough gun for me. Both of mine are already pretty seriously scratched up from rough use, which is as it should be. Neither has a scope as I have never ‘learned’ how to use one – and anyway iron sights are much more stable (against knocks and falls etc) so long as you learned how to shoot straight as a whipper-snapper (which we all did, once – alas for the defence of the realm and other things that those days are gone!) Open sights can also be ‘brought to bear’ much more quickly and are better at ‘tracking’ a running shot – often the case in ‘snap’ shooting of (rapidly departing) sambar deer in the thick forests of Gippsland they typically inhabit. This is also an advantage of the lever action: it can be carried unloaded (which is much safer than relying on safety catches etc) and can be quickly loaded as you swing it to your shoulder. A follow-up shot is also easily taken without the gun swinging off the target. I find it much superior to the bolt action or the pump in these regards. http://www.browning.com/products/catalog/firearms/detail.asp?fid=003B&cid=034&tid=009

19/10/2016: Lever Action Shotguns (and rifles) have been available legally since the late C19th (along with bolt actions). Most folk go with a double barrels (most side-by-side but some under-and-over) because they are lighter, yet you can still get that second shot off quickly (or simultaneously) if needed. Most folks (traditionally) used shotguns to hunt small game, especially birds where more than two shots without reloading was less likely and had to be weighed against the additional weight often lugged through cloying swamps and other treacherous ground. All along however some folks had a need for multiple shots or hunted larger (sometimes dangerous game) where a multi-shot shotgun firing ‘buckshot’ (.30 gauge pellets) or solids were needed. Nothing has changed. Only the law. There has been no increase in firearms offending by law-abiding gun owners. Practically all firearms offences are perpetrated by unlicenced users with illegal firearms. A further restriction on legal firearms owners does not make the public safer. The contrary is the case. Rather than outlawing the Adler shotgun (and all other lever action shotguns - I favour a Winchester .410 lever action for Della for example), law-abiding folks ought to be allowed to carry handguns for self-protection. Neither the law nor the police protect you. At best they make you less safe and/or mop up the pieces (and apportion blame) afterwards. A ban on lever action shotguns will also only lead to a call to outlaw lever action rifles (like the ones you see on Western movies for example). I admit I mostly use nothing but lever action rifles. It is not so much their quick second-shot capability which attracts me to them but their quick first-shot capacity from unloaded – a configuration which I always prefer over relying on ‘safety catches’ which are arguably the cause of more unintentional gun incidents than anything else!

1887 Lever Action Shotgun: the 'Terminator'

13/08/2014: My 45:70 Marlin.

MANY years ago I managed to break the stock on this wonderful rifle and have been unable to acquire a new one (even though it has been on my ‘present list’ for close on 20 years). To my surprise my wonderful family managed to source one for my birthday yesterday. I’m not sure whether I am now too old for this rifle. It IS a blunderbuss (and quite heavy), but we shall see. At least Matt and/or Bryn may enjoy the use of it. Originally this was the round which wiped out the American bison. It was then (as now) .45 calibre (ie 45/100ths of an inch) and was loaded with 70 grains of black powder. NOW you can load (a modern version of the rifle) up with over 80 grains of modern chemical propellent and 500 grains (that’s half an ounce) of copper-jacketed lead. It comes out of the barrel at over 3,000 feet per second and is still going nearly as fast as a ‘baby’ .308 @ 100 yards, but with immensely more kinetic energy. When the projectile mushrooms out, you would have to see the damage to believe it: it is awesome. Small game (wallaby size) just disintegrates! Something the size of a man will have a hole you can push your whole arm through. Anything hit in the chest will be very suddenly, very dead. It is an excellent big game (eg sambar deer) rifle. During the war against the Huk in the Phillipines c1905 American marines brought it back into service as they found (surprisingly) the full metal jacket 30:06 just didn’t have the stopping power for these crazed folks who were completely hyped up on some bizarre concoction of drugs, their gonads tightly wrapped with wet greenhide so they wouldn’t feel any other pain & etc. Allegedly you could shoot them through the heart with a 30:06 solid round and they would still run a 100 yards and chop off your head with a scimitar (you can probably guess at their religion!) The old 45:70 knocked them over backwards and they just didn’t have the ‘heart’ (literally - or much else) to get up again and keep going. I can’t imagine that the current puny .223 round would stop such folks! Perhaps I will stock up on 45:70 ammo!

02/11/2013: A packable .22 Winchester Magnum rifle at under 1 pound has to be a useful thing to own, surely? http://rutalocura.com/PRK.html

16/06/2015: The Ultimate Survival Gun: My first one of these was my Armalite AR-7 .22 calibre. What a beautiful little gun it is: the way it folded up into its own stock with its 8 shot magazine is just excellent. At 1100 grams (2.5 pounds) and 400 mm (16”) long it is ideal for backpacking. Unfortunately as it is a semi-auto, John Howard/Port Arthur has made it unusable, as it is now a Class C ‘weapon’ which I can only use around the farm. How times change! I was down in George St, Sydney one day in 1973, shortly after our marriage, saw it in a gun shop ($100, I think) and just had to have it. No licences or permits then. Just handed over the money for it and a couple of boxes of ammo, and went home (to 33 Chelsford St, Newtown – our first home) along Parramatta Rd, past Sydney Uni (where we both studied – not as much as we should have!) on the bus. Of course I was really chuffed with it and couldn’t help but show it off to all the complete strangers on the bus, who threw it up to their shoulders, pointed it at pedestrians etc out the window & etc, as you would! (It wasn’t loaded – I was never that much of a ninny.) It is just wonderful for knocking down a few conies/possums for the pot, or a wily fox come running to the whistle, and would even essay the odd wild goat, or even something as big as an Old Man Roo. The essential qualities for a ‘survival gun (which this one has) are that it should be lightweight (ie approx under 1 kg), ‘bullet-proof’, take down so that it stows in your pack, and if possible capable of taking a variety of game. Della now has a similar weight neat Rossi .410 single barrel shotgun (which has a ‘spare’ .22 barrel – useful), which CAN fire a solid or SSG – good enough to down the biggest game (Sambar!) even if not strictly legal. A couple of spare shells and you are good for duck, rabbit, pigeon – whatever comes along. Again, it takes down to fit in the pack. But only ONE shot. I love the idea of Rossi’s ‘Circuit Judge’ a five shot .410, which also takes the .45 Colt pistol round, and supports easy loaders. Very handy. I think it too could easily be converted to take-down by modifying the stock screw. And five quick shots would be very handy. Also available in stainless with a synthetic stock. Perfect! Another (very hard to source) gun which I have hankered after since I was a boy is the Springfield M6 ‘Scout’ in .22 Hornet and .410. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Springfield_Armory_M6_Scout The ‘Ultimate Survival Rifle’ might well be this ‘Pack Rifle Kit’ weighing in at a scant 450 grams (in single shot .22 magnum), from Rutalocura: http://rutalocura.com/PRK.html Incidentally, these Aloksak bags make a useful ulralight waterproof bag for your gun, eg if you plan to do some packrafting on your trip: http://www.survival-pax.com/aLOKSAK-Bags-Extra-Large.html Someone has kindly sent me a couple of other recommendations, available locally: http://www.chiappafirearms.com/products/136 & http://www.chiappafirearms.com/products/163

Original AR-7"Explorer" survival rifle, manufactured by Armalite.

AR-7 Assembled

Original AR-7"Explorer" survival rifle, with parts partially inserted into the polymer stock. For compact storage and transportation parts are fully inserted into appropriate compartments in the stock and then closed by detachable rubber buttplate.

AR-7 Take Down

Rutalocura .22 Magnum 'Pack Rifle'

25/06/2015: Ah, Shotguns…Adler A110: Isn’t THIS nice? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrIEnhWQrH0 Forget the ‘Bucket List’ Bring on the Birthday List - or the Xmas List: From A$749: http://nioa.net.au/news/latest-news/view/38/adler-lever-action-shotgun/latest-news & https://www.cleaverfirearms.com/Products.aspx?Category=Shotguns&Brand=231

SELF DEFENCE: I am NOT fearful. I just want to BE PREPARED. I have just come back from the gun shop with a few packs of 12 gauge 00 (buckshot, purchased for hunting deer). What WILL kill a moose, will certainly kill a man - if the need arises, and I certainly hope it does not. If it does though, I want the intruder dead, not Della or myself. I believe that you CAN in Victoria still use this defence (at law) or plead to justifiable homicide, should the occasion ever arise. You would need to wait until the offender was actually breaking in and had removed/destroyed enough of a door or window so that it is reasonable to assume his body is going to soon be inside your house. Best if s/he is in the act of climbing through the hole. You cannot pot people in the garden from inside your house. That would be an unreasonable use of force however delightful it might sound as sport! I understand the Government has stopped the importation of the Rossi Circuit Judge (so snap one up while they are still available – be aware though that they are likely to move to have them available only on a Class C licence). Two other nice choices: for full-size people are the Chiappa 1887 lever-action shotgun, a Winchester knock-off (http://www.chiappafirearms.com/product/831) in 12 gauge; for smaller folks: the Rossi Grande in 410 (http://www.cabelas.com/product/Rossi-Rio-Grande-Lever-Action-Shotgun/1397852.uts) . Both hold five shots, surely enough to settle any ‘minor’ dispute with an unwanted intruder at close range.

18/12/2014: SELF-DEFENCE: I understand the fate of most ‘Cassandras’ (that though they see the future correctly, their prognostications will not be believed), but I think the market must nearly be at bottom (there are some GREAT buys out there). Even if this is not the case, including some security firms and product suppliers in your portfolio would have to be a good bet: we can surely ALL understand from the Sydney ‘siege’ that the need to protect ourselves is paramount. It is palpably absurd that Australians should be mere victims; that the only ‘defence’ available to us is to wait passively whilst evildoers ‘have their way’ with us until the police arrive to ‘save’ us (good luck with THAT – as you SAW!) or indeed to SHOOT us (!) This is an entirely unsatisfactory situation. You may NOT own a firearm for self-defence, (but you may own one for hunting or for stock protection (for example) and it has to be stored securely ‘when not in use’, but it CAN be standing in the kitchen corner LOADED when it IS in use, eg when you are about to go hunting, or to shoot a fox – which is just about ALL the time, surely? I once again recommend the Rossi ‘Circuit Judge’ (Avail Walmart : http://www.walmart.com/…/Rossi-Curcuit-Judge-Shotg…/17200849 as you can see) loaded with five .410 SSG cartridges 3x .30 cal slugs ea). Just squeezing the trigger five times in rapid succession will send five .30 calibre projectiles into the vitals of your chosen target (which, at close range) will surely cause them to give up interest quite promptly! A great gun for smaller folk too such as ladies, perhaps as a Xmas present?

Rossi Curcuit Judge Shotgun .410 Bore/.45 Colt

18/03/2015: GUNS: An issue nearer to my heart is Mr Abbott’s intention to criminalise gun ownership so forcefully that the ‘trafficking’ of an ‘illegal’ gun would bring a mandatory five year sentence of imprisonment. The Nazis too sought to demonise and outlaw gun ownership – in their case on penalty of DEATH. Yet very few guns were ever relinquished: so deeply held in the German people was their belief in the sanctity of gun ownership that they were willing to risk DEATH to defend it. MILLIONS of Germans held onto their illegal firearms throughout the Nazi era. The same has happened here since gun registration became compulsory (in Vic) in 1983. Abbott’s admission that there are hundreds of thousands of illegal guns (I would think MORE) shows that people would RATHER DEFY such onerous restrictions. This belief is well stated in the American Constitution where the right (nay DUTY) to bear arms is ENSHRINED, a voluntary militia so armed being seen as a necessary Defence of free people against the TYRANNY of Government. Mr Abbott (and his cronies) argue for this measure as a response to the risks that (particularly Islamist) terrorists represent. They would do much better to so correctly identify and eradicate this risk eg by deporting its supporters. I have no problem with criminals and terrorists being executed – indeed I passionately advocate it! What I object to is the criminalisation of ordinary law abiding citizens because they wish to make or own guns, or exchange them with each other. I would much rather see gun ownership being made COMPULSORY than that it be forbidden. Such a step would certainly improve public manners and public SAFETY! It is an absurdity that there are people who believe that the only possessors of guns should be Governments, when it is clearly Governments who are the single biggest ABUSERS of firearms (and especially against their own citizens). It seems reasonable to me that everyone should be armed so that they can DEFEND themselves AGAINST wicked Governments - their own or someone else’s!

03/10/2015: Bore Sight: This is just about the best $20 I have ever spent. All my rifles were just a little bit ‘out’. My 22 Magnum was way out. Foxes around here will now have to watch out. Thanks eBay:

WEATHER: 15/02/2015: The GFS (US Weather Bureau ‘Global Forecasting Service) forecast for Jeeralang Junction has had yesterday at Jeeralang Junction involving 44mm of rain for the past FORTNIGHT! Yesterday we received 44mm of rain. Our own BOM had us has having none until approx 7:00pm the day before and then suggested 1-10mm. The difference is almost universal and sufficient to seriously question their competence. Certainly if they can’t get tomorrow anywhere near right they should stop banging on about their forecasts for 100 YEARS hence! I usually take the average of the three models shown here (http://ozforecast.com.au/cgi-bin/weather.cgi?station=Jeeralang+Junction.VIC&radar). If I am thinking of cutting hay/journeying to Fiordland etc, I have a closer look here (http://ready.arl.noaa.gov/READYcmet.php). It is a little difficult to use, but if it predicts a long-term high, you can be pretty sure of staying dry: I have not needed to take my raincoat out of my pack on my last FOUR visits to Fiordland, one of the wettest places on earth! Elders 28 Day Rainfall is very good too for forward planning (http://www.eldersweather.com.au/raindates.jsp?dc=disableCookies&lt=wzdist&lc=v17) Incidentally, the GFS has another inch or more on the way before the end of the month. I think we can conclude that here (at least) the bushfire season is OVER and the autumn break is ON THE WAY!

20/01/2014: OUR LARGEST TREES: You may not know that the tallest trees ever measured on earth were NOT Californian Redwoods, but Victorian Mountain Ash. The greatest of them was (maybe) the Cornthwaite Tree (near Thorpdale) which measured 114 metres -375’ (on the ground!). There is a 1/10 scale model on the site! Think of THAT! ‘The world’s tallest tree ever recorded was a fallen Eucalyptus regnans tree measured at 133m at Watts River, Victoria, in 1872 (Carder 1995). The tree, reported by William Ferguson, had a broken top and the entire tree was estimated to have once been over 500 feet (152 m) tall’. (http://www.forestrytas.com.au/uploads/File/tasfor/tasforests_12/tasfor_12_09.pdf) Locally (Latrobe Valley) these trees are worth a visit: the Ada Tree above Noojee (follow the signs on the New Turkey Spur Rd) and the Whitelaw Tree off the Upper Thomson Rd behind (North face) the Baw Baw Plateau. There are some very ‘nice’ specimens (of mountain ash) especially to be seen from the swing-bridge in (Tarra) Bulga National Park at the other end (34 km) of our street! Some beautiful Antarctic Beech there too. Interesting pages about living tall Australian trees: http://victoriasgianttrees.weebly.com/tall-and-big-tree-news.html & http://www.landmarktrees.net/largest%20eucalyptus.html & http://www.nationalregisterofbigtrees.com.au/listing_view.php?listing_id=205

CANOEING:

01/11/2014: Tin Canoes: I have been canoeing for a long time now…nearly sixty years: when we were primary school age we used to make tin canoes out of a sheet of corrugated iron, usually tacked to a plank front and stern, tar-sealed, the side edges folded and hammered flat so we didn’t cut ourselves to pieces. Paddles made from a straight tree branch with a couple of pieces of flat plank nailed on. We had to wait till the creek was running a ‘banker’ before we could try it out. It is a wonder really we are still alive (well, most of us). It was a different childhood to the cosseted suburban video-game ‘heaven’ most youngsters ‘endure today. Thank goodness our own children got to spend a lot of their childhood in the forest, on our wild rivers, growing up on a farm & etc.

There are some MAJOR river trips which can be had wholly in Gippsland. For instance…Someday it is my intention to clear the Tyers River from Christmas Creek down to Wirilda Park (near the junction with the Latrobe). In the past I cleared some sections of this, (eg from Growlers down to Western Tyers (3-4 hours) and from the end of the W3 track (off the Tyers-Walhalla Rd) to Wirilda (3-4 hours). I figure a week’s lovely canoeing could be had along the quite pristine Tyers. There are many long trips which can already be undertaken. (Of course, they CAN be broken up into shorter trips). For example, the Wonnangatta-Mitchell is canoeable from the Humffray River confluence (at the bottom of the Wombat Spur) all the way to Lake King (12-13 days). I particularly like the couple of days coming down to Eaglevale through serene, remote forested country. The Macalister can be canoed (easily) from the Glencairn Bridge (on the Barkly off the Jamieson Rd above Licola – GREAT camping spot!). It takes @ 3 days to reach Lake Glenmaggie, from where you can continue on for a few days to Sale, if you wish. The Snowy is a huge trip: 5-7 days from Delegate to McKillops Bridge; a further 8 ½ to Marlo = @ 15 days! I have already mentioned in a previous post @ 10 days on the Latrobe from Noojee to Batts Landing on Lake Wellington. Canoeing is such a CHEAP recreation. A quite serviceable polyethylene canoe can be bought from @ $500. For many years we worked hard at wearing out a pair of Nylex Pioneers (@35kg each) which in our old age we have now replaced with a pair of Old Town Pack Angler 12’ Canadians @13kg each as we are getting too lazy (?) to carry the old ones!

29/01/2017: Wonnangatta: Waterford to Angusvale Day Three: We were so glad we stopped at the (first) Surprise rapid; The dawn was spectacular! As I went down to check the water just as the sun was lighting the hill to the East, its warmth caused the whole pool to 'boil' with mist. My eye was at first caught by a mysterious patch of foam drifting on the limpid pool, then I looked up and was enchanted by the dawn. I managed to catch it in the photo here. You have to be in the right place at the right time!

The strange circle of foam...

And then, the dawn:

We just could not stop snapping away at it.

Della of course took the best photo with her new birthday Galaxy S7.

Then I looked upstream to try to understand where the foam had come from. There was a weird gyre at the head of the pool.

Here it is in detail.

Della also took this photo of Spot and me examining the gyre. The river was so reflective in the early morning light.

Then a small black diver swirled through the mist.

Upstream the pool had become a magic mirror.

Whilst downstream it was a dream of silver...

Then to check out the first rapid. Churning away in a tumult. I opined I could shoot it with each boat in turn as I had the last but one grade 2 rapid (we had portaged the last). Della urged caution as we were far from help. We checked out an old pack track on the true right bank and decided we could carry the boats the 100 metres around it. So we did.

Then we came to the second 'Surprise rapid. A somewhat shorter portage over mostly flattish rocks. This one would definitely have you out. One rock would hurl you one way whilst instantly another would hurl you the other. Paradoxically it might be better with more water. We portaged three times in all, then after a tricky Grade 2 rapid with a sharp right turn in it we were mostly safe on placid waters. We should have portaged it as well as it gave Della quite a fright.

The calm after the storm.

And so it (mostly) went on.

Past these beautiful, interesting trees - the greenest, shadiest most luxuriant native tree I have ever seen in Victoria. They were 10 metres high, had smooth bark...

And these pretty sweet smelling yellow flowers - perhaps a reader can help me out. I would plant some.

Still half a dozen small rapids before Angusvale. Like this one...

And this.

A bee-eater (one of many we saw) atop this dead bush.

Della was still going strong even though she had quite a shock on the tricky Grade 2 rapid (which we ought have portaged)!

The dogs still showed a lot of interest in our progress...

These bushes are what we used to call 'native willow' They will not do such a good job of retaining the riverbanks though!

The second last rapid.

The last small drop (and Angusvale) are just around the bend. What a delightful three days' adventure. The Wonnangatta is certainly a river to dream of...

You can check the river heights here: http://www.bom.gov.au/fwo/IDV67202/IDV67202.084118.tbl.shtml

Check suggested river heights below. If you are unsure whether there is sufficient water, you can canoe the short (half-hour) section from Meyers Flat to the Cobbanah Creek confluence to check it out.

Appropriate Vicmaps: Cobannah North T8322-4-N and Tabberabbera North T8322-1-N available here: http://services.land.vic.gov.au/maps/imf/search/Topo30Front.jsp Use Avenza App.

Section 2: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wonnangatta-black-snake-to-hut-creek/

Section 3: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wonnangatta-hut-creek-to-waterford-bridge/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoe-wonnangatta/

For River Heights: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-wonnangatta-catching-the-wave/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pack-rafting-the-wonnangatta-mitchell/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/videos/dawn-surprise-rapid-wonnangatta-river-australia-day-2017/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wonnangatta-waterford-to-angusvale-day-one/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wonnangatta-waterford-to-angusvale-day-two/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wonnangatta-waterford-to-angusvale-day-three/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/videos/canoe-wonnangatta-the-movie/

28/01/2017: Wonnangatta: Waterford to Angusvale Day Two: The second day we ventured as far as the 'Surprise Rapid' which took us five hours (this is including brief halts for lunch, snacks, etc - and at retiree speeds), but mostly speed is related to water flow, and we are canoeing the Wonnangatta this summer with very low flows because of the effects of the bushfires years ago.

We had camped the first night just before the complete end of private property on the right bank. In most cases there is a public margin where you can camp even though there is private property along the river. It was not long before I spied an enormous stag (without antlers) running with two wild cows and calves which I thought an amazing thing. He was too quick for a photo though! Not long afterwards though our passage was blocked by a party of wild bulls which we waited to disburse - as they were not behaving in the most friendly manner! I judged all of these stock to be wild as they were running on public land/National park and had no eartags and they were clearly all sorts of crossbreeds.

They do look daunting, don't they. I was pretty keen to stop Spot barking and antagonising them!

There were a few more interesting rapids in this section.

And we finally came to the end of the dread willow blight! The riverbanks resumed their beauty.

Some of these rapids would disappear at a greater river height - or become more difficult!

Della is hiding behind that island before she comes down this one:

With a very professional style!

Spot and Tiny look back towards her, most impressed.

After an hour or two a break for a snack.

And then onwards again!

The various herbivores are keeping this national park well mown. There is much more grass on various private properties across the river.

A wedge-tailed eagle combs the cloudy sky.

Another pleasant rapid.

The remains of an old swing bridge I guess.

And Spot investigates a bathtub which may come in handy in case we lose our canoes!

There are some fearsome predators as in these waters (river monsters perhaps - well there are giant carp anyway, nearly a metre long). No carp chewed open this freshwater mussel though.

Paddling on.

You can see the damage the absence of willows creates!

The river has become wider.

Towards the end of the trip there were a couple of Grade 2 rapids, which we checked out before we committed ourselves. This one was OK, but another we portaged. there is no sense in getting yourself injured so far from help - and we are here for a good time.

After five hours we came to the (first of) the Surprise rapids. There are several in quick succession. I reckoned I could get down this one safely. Della demurred, so next day we portaged all of them (there is an old pack track) on the right bank.

Thre is a long languorous deep pool upstream the 'Surprise', a pleasant harbour and a shady spot to rest. We pitched our tent on a little flat about three metres just behind me to my right.

The residents began to come to check us out. Here is a wood duck. Then a giant carp began to repeatedly broach in the deep pool. I tried for an hour to snap a photo of him but to no avail.

You can see how close our tent was to the water. It was a lovely camp. The water was warm enough for a bath (as on the first night). The ground was soft and flat. We enjoyed a pleasant night's rest in the wild.

I went for a little walk back along the river for a couple of kilometres (there are substantial clearings all along it). I saw two does and a stag - again they departed too quickly to get a photo. Della utilised part of one of their relatives to make a 'Clan of the Cave Bear Mask'. Here, she is one of the 'People of the Deer'. Well, she is a dear person anyway to come with me on these wild adventures!

27/01/2017: Wonnangatta: Waterford to Angusvale Day One: This is a truly wonderful section of the river. One of Australia's greatest treasures and one of our last wild rivers! It took us fourteen hours (paddling and portaging) to make it from Meyers Flat (15 minutes below Waterford by canoe - but easier to put in) to the first take-out point at Angusvale. The car/bike shuttle took 50 minutes each way. We began the trip when the Waterford river height was 1.72 metres and finished it at 1.67 so would confidently say it would be fine at 1.65, probably even good at 1.6 with a few portages over pebble races. If you wonder whether you too can do this trip, may I remind you we are both retirees.

This is our rig. We spent the first night in the camper. I have arranged a simple drop-in frame which carries the motorbike on one side of our 6 x 4 trailer and the two canoes on the other. I will perfect this and do a separate post about it

We begin the journey.

Many beautiful European trees in this first third.

The first two days were all just pebble races or Grade 1+ rapids. Really enjoyable. We never had to get out of the boats.

A heron watches us pass. The birdlife on the river is rich and varied. Unfortunately it is not possible to get very good photographs with a waterproof pocket camera.

Castleburn Creek confluence about half an hour in. It would be easy to put in here. there is also a lovely car camping spot. The dogs enjoy playing in the sand.

Leaving the Castleburn Creek confluence.

Just cruising.

A splendid long race.

Lots of fun Grade 1 rapids.

These wood ducks were playing 'hide the duckling'.

Some willows needed here.

Spot keeps a close check on Della's progress. Tiny is just' grocking'!

These relict brachychitons (kurrajongs) are a feature of the river (as are bee-eaters!)

Spot wondering whether Della is going to ever make it down this easy race. Here she comes.

The Dargo River confluence, lunch stop for us on a beautiful beach. The willow haters have been at work here.

Della powers along.

Spot surveys with distaste the kilometres of dead willows and wonders, 'Why?'

We usually approached complex rapids (eg this one with its many rocks) carefully, even getting out to check whether it was safe if necessary. This one is fine.

A pair of blue cranes sombrely watch us pass.

A dead tree kangaroo. Possibly a victim of the willow spray!

Just so many beautiful, easy sections of river. You could go to sleep. But don't!

This old-timer had a delightful garden. A good crop of prickly pears there. For the first 5-6 hours there are occasional patches of private land interspersed with bush on either side of the river.

Lichen has taken a lot of trouble to paint these cliffs. The deer are keeping the grass well mown.

I had stopped to look at something when Tiny (faintly) saw Della go past. Thinking she had been abandoned our 17 year old heroine Jack Russell (centre) swam clear across this mighty river to 'save' Della. Six hours in. Time to make camp, perhaps.

And what a delightful river bank camp it is. This is my 'Honey I Shrank' tent (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/honey-i-shrank-the-tent/). Della enjoys a well-deserved cuppa. Spot keeps her company. Tiny hits her bed. I quite agree with Ratty, 'There is simply nothing quite like messing about in boats'!

Right behind our camp (<20 yards away) there was this monstrous wallow, so you can be sure we were serenaded by sambar by moonlight! No cast antlers found unfortunately!

Section 2: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wonnangatta-black-snake-to-hut-creek/

Section 3: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wonnangatta-hut-creek-to-waterford-bridge/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoe-wonnangatta/

27/01/2017: Dawn, Surprise Rapid, Wonnangatta River, Australia Day 2017:

19/01/2017: Wonnangatta: Hut Creek to Waterford Bridge: This is a quite committing section of the river. it also contains many hours of outstandingly beautiful, serene forest containing many beaches and grassy flats where you can swim or camp. It is likely to take you up to six hours (with a couple of refreshment stops). You might prefer to do it as an overnight trip, or even begin at Black Snake Creek which would add about two hours to this trip. Hut Creek is between Maguires Flat and the RPC Scorpion Track. There is a small strip of public land where you can get down to the river here. It is canoeable above about 1.70, and is quite excellent at 1.75 (which is what it was when we did it last). You can get out at Scrubby Creek Track (if you have 4WDs) which would cut about 11/2 hours from the trip. It is also possible to camp along this track. There used even to be a hut you could stay in. The photos are in order, so should give you a good idea of what to expect.

The section begins with a long, deep race down to the Scorpion Track crossing. Until closed, there used to be a couple of kilometers of lovely car camping on grassy flats on both East and the West bank of the river here. Alas, our masters have decreed, 'no more' - and no more fire access, or pest animal management access, etc either. Canoe camping though is a different matter!

Outstanding swimming beaches.

Delicious long, placid pools.

Lovely pebble races.

Ducks. Well: birds, lots of birds. This section is a bird watcher's paradise. There were literally flocks of dozens of bee-eaters for example - and enough bell miners to almost deafen one!

And the water is as clear as crystal!

The Rock of Gibraltar looms overhead.

Lots of great Grade 1+ rapids.

A cool shady place to stop for lunch on a hot day.

Look at this wonderful long deep pool.

And this beach!

And this one: what a majestic gum!

And another vast deep pool. There were giant fish along this section; carp which must have been nearly a metre long!

Spot caused me to sweep under a branch and the boat filled up with long-legged spiders - which had built webs in two minutes!

So that I had to get out on this delightful bar and foist them out.

One of the fords (Scrubby Creek Track) is in the background as Della negotiates this interesting rapid.

Then comes this enchanting labyrinth.

The westering sun is brilliantly glistening off this pebble race.

Suddenly you break out into Guys.

This appeared to be a sandpiper - a long way from the sea.

These spur-winged plovers just took off as I pressed the shutter.

Guys' giant walnuts were loaded with fruit nearly the size of tennis balls!

They, and the weeping willows transform the river into a European landscape.

The blue hills behind Della make a delightful backdrop.

She finishes the very last rapid in a halo of sunlight!

You can drag your boats out on the North-East side of the bridge - or you can go two kilometres downstream (another half an hour) and get them out more easily at Meyers Flat.

Section 2: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wonnangatta-black-snake-to-hut-creek/

Section 3: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wonnangatta-hut-creek-to-waterford-bridge/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoe-wonnangatta/

For River Heights: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-wonnangatta-catching-the-wave/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pack-rafting-the-wonnangatta-mitchell/

18/01/2017: Wonnangatta: Black Snake to Hut Creek: This is the second section downstream from the Kingwell Bridge. It takes about two hours including rest stops. It makes a delightful after-lunch canoe trip if you are camped at Black Snake Creek or at Kingwell Bridge. You put in where the Creek joins the river and there is a small pebbly beach.

Straightaway you are into a long right-curving chute which goes on for nearly a kilometre. Delightful.

With a couple of pebble races thrown in just for fun. Like this one:

And this:

About a kilometre in there is a splendid swimming hole with a beach on one side and a deep pool complete with diving rock on the other.

Another Grade 1 rapid.

A long deep section.

Spot is on lookout. What a great swimming hole this is on a right hand bend. The long flat on the true right bank below it has many possible grassy campsites if you are planning a lazy, multi-day canoe odyssey from Kingwell Bridge all the way to Waterford..

The river is so clean and clear.

Some of these interesting trees have spring up here and there. I suspect they are weeds and are inedible - at least the birds have been ignoring them. Can anyone identify them? They are not loquats: the fruit have hundreds of tiny seeds like tomatoes.

Here is what the flowers looked like some months ago.

Maguires Flat is on the true left bank here. Scorpion Creek is on the right.

The last straight. At the end of Maguires Flat there is a pebble race (you go down the left hand side). Hut Creek is straight ahead of you on the left bank. It is easy to be swept past, particularly at high water (ie over 1.8 metres) so you should have checked this out before you started at Black Snake Creek when you were leaving your vehicle here. You have to drag your boats about fifty yards back along the bank of the creek to your car, but it is easy. Someone else could clear some of the fallen branches - after all what is the 'Dept of Many Names' for? Well, I wonder...

Section 2: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wonnangatta-black-snake-to-hut-creek/

Section 3: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/wonnangatta-hut-creek-to-waterford-bridge/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoe-wonnangatta/

For River Heights: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-wonnangatta-catching-the-wave/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pack-rafting-the-wonnangatta-mitchell/

17/01/2017: Wonnangatta: Kingwell Bridge to Black Snake Creek

This section and the next (to Hut Creek) are the best family canoeing opportunities on the river. When our kids were little (just a quarter century ago) we must have canoed them a hundred times. In the morning you can drop in at the Kingwell Bridge, spend two delightful hours on the river (much more with swims!) yet be back at your camp at the Black Snake Creek for lunch. After lunch you can canoe the two hours down to Hut Creek (between Maguires and the RPC Scorpion Track).

The photos that follow are of this first section. (I will post about the second section later). The photos are in sequence so I hope give some indication of what you will encounter (many delights) along the way. Both sections are just pebble races or Grade 1+ rapids. Of course you can fall out. Your kids should be wearing life jackets but I confess that once ours could swim we found it just about impossible to keep them on them.

Every now and then you might encounter something (a tree down perhaps, or a log sitting in a dangerous position) where you want to get out and walk the boats around. Della does not see as well as she used to, so reverts to this strategy more than I do. Also, sometimes she misses the deepest channel and has to get out – but she has only 38% vision, so if she can still canoe this river, I’m sure you can! You need about 1.70 metres at the Waterford gauge to canoe from the Kingwell Bridge to the Waterford Bridge http://www.bom.gov.au/cgi-bin/wrap_fwo.pl?IDV60078.html

Setting out just above the Kingwell Bridge. There is a large cleared area on the upriver side where you can easily turn a car and trailer around – or camp if you wish!

There was some heavy roan traffic on the bridge that day!

Some majestic gums line the river.

Mostly, as you see, it is fun pebble races.

And pleasant deep sections just right for a swim. We could never go far before the kids wanted a dip!

A great little rapid.

And another deep section where you can ‘raft up’.

Hawkhurst’s sheep slumbering under their ancient poplars didn’t like the look of us – or our dogs!

What a lovely deep lead!

The gums and European trees get on together just fine.

Some wood ducks enjoying the river.

Della missed the channel here below the willows and poplars.

This gum tree though seems to be trying to avoid these poplars! Neighbours!

A great swimming hole.

And a lovely beach opposite.

Della always loves to have a fossick.

This time she has turned up a treasure!

She wanted to avoid this little rapid though she has canoed it scores of times before.

The dogs Tiny and Spot are all attention.

Some interesting cliffs for climbing.

And around the bend we go!

Another beautiful deep lead.

Looking back at the last little drop, the light catches the water splendidly.

As it does here.

Always some beautiful flowers to see.

This swing bridge is just above the Black Snake Creek. Time to start looking for the small landing beach (left) where the creek joins the river.

What a delightful trip! Hope you enjoy it too.

Nowadays there is a free camping ground (with fire pits, toilet, etc) at Black Snake Creek (which was a town with a PO etc during the Depression). The remaining hut is the home of its last inhabitant, Harry Gee who stayed on here alone for many years. His house used to have a huge walnut tree on the Downstream side and a vast loquat on the upstream side. There was a bridge spike in the walnut tree about 8′ up where he used to hang the carcass of a sheep, etc he was to eat.

The mine which was the purpose of the town lies further up the valley. There is a walking path. We used to park the camper under the deep shade of his walnut tree where the Gang Gangs and Major Mitchells rained down green walnuts on us! Before the kids could swim they would make a wading pool in the creek just behind his house. We had many lovely holidays there – I hope you do too!

16/01/2017: Ten delightful hours so far canoeing the beautiful Wonnangatta River from Kingwell Bridge to Waterford Bridge, as ‘we catch the wave’ http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-wonnangatta…/ (See also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pack-rafting-the-wonnang…/) In this section the river journeys for many hours through the most serene and beautiful forest you can imagine – and full of beautiful camping spots! More photos to follow. Here is a foretaste. PS: Delightfully we have found a campsite here where our mobile phones and internet both work!

Image may contain: dog, outdoor, water and nature

Image may contain: 1 person, tree, sky, outdoor, nature and water

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Image may contain: tree, outdoor, nature and water

12/01/2017: Canoeing the Wonnangatta, Catching the Wave: Rainfall at Mt Hotham is a pretty good analogue for river flow on the Wonnangatta-Mitchell. The river flows at approx 4km/hr. Use that fact to time the canoeability of sections.

On Monday (9 Jan) it rained steadily all afternoon and there was 63 mm of rainfall at Mt Hotham by the time it stopped around 9pm. The whole valley got a good soaking. You can check this is happening by comparing eg rainfall at Dargo. You can see that it is raining by checking the radar.

By 2.52am on the 10^th the river had started rising at Waterford (from a low of 1.72metres). By 14.22pm it had reached 1.80 metres which is the recommended canoeable height for the section downstream of Waterford (& indeed all the way from the Humffray). I would be fairly confident of setting out from the Kingwell Bridge at 1.75 metres height as measured at Waterford with a flow like this coming down behind me.

It rose to 1.84 metres at 21:17pm on the 10^th, stayed there until 8: 52am on the 11^th and then began falling. By 19:17 on the 11^th the river had returned to 1.80 at Waterford. So, the river remained canoeable for 29 hours.

Since the bushfires summer flows have been deplorably low and will likely remain that way for many years. You have to catch the wave! If you started out from Waterford before 19:17 on the 11^th you would ride that wave all the way to Glenaladale (except you would have to sleep!

If you anticipated the wave you would be able to start at Waterford on the morning of the 10^th and still have two days of beautiful canoeing down to Angusvale. There is going to be 12-20mm of rain again at Hotham on Friday 13^th. The rain is going to come in about midday and continue until after midnight.

Saturday and Sunday the river should be canoeable anywhere from Eaglevale down and the weather should be fine and about 26C. This should be a good weekend on the Wonnangatta. Enjoy! I know I will!

Since I wrote this I have found you can canoe the river from approx 1.70 metres on the Waterford gauge!

05/01.2017: Pack Rafting the Wonnagatta-Mitchell:

We took a day off today, it being 30C and there being enough water, to revisit one of our favourite spots when our kids were little over 20 years ago…Hot summers then (they were hotter) and there was plenty of water (before the ‘noughty’ fires) we used to camp at one particular spot and either spend the day drifting down to our camp, swimming and playing, or else start off from camp and drift down to another exit point way downriver.

Now most of the campsites are gone – locked off. Our public lands are progressively being stolen from us. Those that remain are crowded, and they now have toilets and ‘designated campsites – both represent the end of freedom! Yet there is no-one on the river. It is just as idyllic as ever…And you can still put in where we used to and get out nearly where we used to – there are tiny snippets of (hidden) public access. You have to look carefully for them, and there may be a little bush-bashing, but not much.

You can canoe this wonderful river all the way from the Humffray confluence way inside the Alpine National Park just below the Station, all the way to Lake King (three weeks later!) The top section (down to Eaglevale) needs two 4WDs or a motorbike and one, or a long, tough walk from your 4WD from Moroka Glen. From Eaglevale it can all be done with two 2WDs or a motorbike and one. There is one section from Angusvale to the Den of Nargun which can be done with one vehicle – as a packrafting trip, as there is a walking track which joins them. This section would take approx three days (two walking).

Here we are, ready to set off.

As you can see we are one car plus one motorbike.

Della is away first, keen to start.

These two snaps are for the kids: remember this old abandoned orchard and its apricot tree where we used to feast those Xmases past

And this swimming hole where you wiled away so much long summertime…

Away we go! Just here the river is like a mirror!

Della prefers to follow because of her eyesight – she has less than 40% vision – and you think you have problems? Nonetheless even in just this last year she has followed me to many places those with two good eyes have seen; the South Coast Track & Westies Hut, NZ for example: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/westies-hut/

And remember this deep, cool swimming hole too?

Nonetheless, she is a champ!

Just to prove I was there too.

This, believe it or not, is a deer path on public land! This would be a good place to be at dusk with a .308 – if you were hungry!

Huck Finn, eat your heart out!

There be monsters here:

And interesting flotsam. This vast length of 1/2″ rope was caught up in a huge pile of flood-wrack. i souvenired it!

Look at that girl go!

Here near the wallows she shot ahead of me eager to find a great antler of her own just as our son did many years ago. All we found today was some very muddy sticks, alas!

Once more she is following faithfully behind down this entertaining little drop.

Here is an interesting historical curio, the cab of an old jinker – and Della!

I have the Alpacka Fiord Explorer, and Della has the Alpacka model, just perfect for someone who is just 5′. Hers has an airtight zip so you can stow your dry bags inside the craft’s tubes. What a clever idea. Or you can tie your packs etc on the bow and stern as I have done with my dry bag above.

And here is a dragon wondering what is going on.

Who we will leave to wait for our next trip to find out – a multi day one, I think. And soon!

PS: Today there was exactly 1.80 metres on the Waterford gauge. This is what you need to canoe the entire river. Any lower and the sections above the Kingwell Bridge (especially) will become difficult. From the Kingwell down to Waterford you ought to be OK at 1.75. Below Waterford you might get by with a little less, perhaps even 1.70 – if you don’t mind getting out at shallow pebble races. River heights here; http://www.bom.gov.au/cgi-bin/wrap_fwo.pl?IDV60154.html

Even at this height there will be lots of lovely long deep sections, and anyway lots of beautiful camping spots and cool swimming holes. Have fun! Time was, there was water aplenty every day of the year. There used to be much more water summertime. The bushfires stole the river folks. It will not be back until the forest is all growed back again – by then I will be gone!

The section we canoed today was one which escaped the fires. The birdlife was beautiful and exhuberant. I must have spotted a hundred different species of birds; both the kinds of wood swallows, (very noisy) leather heads, scads of bell miners, many kinds of honey-eaters, many kinds of parrots including gang gangs, three kinds of ducks, two kinds of doves, wagtails, kingfishers, mutton birds, warblers, wrens, currrawongs, sitellas, beautiful purple cuckoo-shrikes with their graceful dipping flight, resplendent bee-eaters, the improbable blue eyes of bower birds…

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/more-about-diy-pfds/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-pack-rafting-life-vest/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-paddle/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-gorilla-in-the-bush/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-canoeing-the-seaforth/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-gippslands-rivers/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/home-made-pack-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/faux-packraft-vs-alpacka-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thompson-river/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thomson-river-gippsland-victoria/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/videos/thomson-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoeing-update/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister-river/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hornet-lite-pack-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pack-raft-saves-the-day/

http://blog.hillmap.com/2013/02/raft-valves-and-dreams-of-homemade.html

03/01.2017: New DIY Pack Raft: You have probably caught up with the price of a brand new Alpacka raft (http://www.alpackaraft.com/alpacka-raft-series/) and put your canoeing dreams on hold but there are cheaper options.

There is for example my home made pack raft (which costs less then A$40) that I posted about way back here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/home-made-pack-raft/ for example. I have since thought that it would be better to attach the reinforcing bottom with a circle of tarp clips (such as these: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/easyklip/) connected together with a thin rope. It can be easily taken off to dry and put back on again before you re-inflate. And it is easy to replace if it wears out.

I have also mentioned Klymit’s much cheaper rafts (from around US$100: eg here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-packraft/ & here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-best-laid-schemes/

Now there is an even better option: http://www.diypackraft.com/shop/ What a resource this is! These folk offer a DIY kit from US$125! This is a very good price for a real packraft able to canoe serious white water! Their rafts start with an ultralight version815 grams!

Their page comes with every bit of useful advice you could possibly want. The site is positively encyclopaedic. Their DIY seat plan is handy. Even their blog http://www.diypackraft.com/blog/ is imnpressive. It even includes a DIY paddle! Check them out.

I may start with their fabric sample kit (US$5.99 – free international shipping) and their http://www.diypackraft.com/2016/07/09/diy-heat-sealing-iron/ (I have some other projects in mind for heat sealable fabrics).

Their fabric prices are quite good. I compared them with a couple of other suppliers such as Quest: http://www.questoutfitters.com/Coated_2.htm#HEAT%20SEALABLE and Seattle: http://www.seattlefabrics.com/nylons.html Of course you can get them cheaper if you buy in bulk, eg Rockywoods: http://www.rockywoods.com/Fabrics-Kits/Heat-Sealable-Nylon-Fabrics

You will still need a paddle: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-paddle/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/gippsland-pack-rafting-routes/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-pack-rafting-life-vest/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/more-about-diy-pfds/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/you-take-the-high-road-and-ill-take-the-low/

PS: I have the Fiord Explorer pack raft from Alpacka, what they call their ‘Moose Boat’, because you can pack a whole moose carcass in it. You need to consider just how much you might carry before you purchase or make your first/next pack raft.

Happy Paddling!

09/12/2016: You Take the High Road and I’ll Take the Low: Canoe Hunting: A canoe (or better yet, a pack raft) can get you to many spots which would be almost impossible with a 4WD or just on foot (even just across a swollen river, or much further along a lake), and it can get you (and your quarry) out again with a minimum of effort. Victoria possesses a wonderful network of navigable rivers/lakes often linked to walking tracks or off-road vehicular tracks which can provide an unsurpassed wilderness experience. See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/gippsland-pack-rafting-routes/

What is Pack rafting?: I just realised that many readers may not realise what pack rafting is, so I’ll try to explain. A number of folk (eg Alpacka: http://www.alpackaraft.com/ ) have developed these ultralight (but tough ie suitable Grade 3 rapids – and above!) inflatable rafts/canoes which weigh approx. 2 kg (4lb) - or less. Coupled with a paddle of 800 grams (or less) and a life vest of 500 grams (or less), you can stow this boat and what you need to ‘drive’ it safely in your hiking/hunting/fishing backpack (which should itself weigh 500 grams or less empty!)

imgp3383-comp

My Fiord Explorer descending the 'Boulder Rapid' (Grade 3) on the Thomson River.

You will need a reasonable waterproof liner, and I would recommend a second one inside the first to contain your sleeping bag and change of clothes. Throw in all your other ultralight hiking gear (and maybe some fishing gear) you’ll be going where they’re biting obviously - and maybe a packable rifle, and you are good to go for quite a different adventure. I use a ‘take-down’ (Browning) BLR ‘Lightning’ .308 myself in ‘take-down’ form, (meaning it ‘breaks’ into two and can be stowed inside the waterproof pack liner) in my hunting pack. This is great for keeping the rifle clean and dry. I also carry it stowed like this in my pack on walks out when carrying a heavy load. I have two shortened hiking poles (@100 grams ea – they also serve as my tent poles, selfie stick, tripod, fishing rod, etc) which help enormously with a ‘carry out’ – at least at my age! They transfer around 40% of the effort from your legs to your upper body, and mean that you can maintain your balance with ease.

Now you can walk and paddle to some really inaccessible spots. These are the places where folks with only 4WDs or motorbikes can’t get. Often they can’t get to them without several days’ walk (both in and out – or not at all), whereas you will be getting in and out relatively easily. It might be that you will also want to combine canoe hunting with a motorcycle carrier so that you can ‘do’ one long section of a river and recover your vehicle when you finish. Something like this: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/motorbike-hitch-carrier/ but there are many potential ‘loops’ as well where all you will need is your canoe and your feet.

Of course I am assuming you already have a fair degree of canoeing skill and experience. If you do not, I suggest you get it before heading off into the bush on your own – or with a friend. The three golden rules used to be: don’t get side on (particularly to a log), lean into rocks (this rule is reversed with inflatables – as you will quickly find out - splash!), stay on the inside of bends (avoid overhangs and logs). If there is likely to be a ‘stopper’ (eg a waterfall), or just anything you are unsure of, get out and walk. This is one of the beauties of pack rafts; they are so light and portable. An older style Canadian canoe could easily weigh 35+ kg. Then you maybe put in it 50+kg of gear. Portaging that becomes a serious problem sometimes. On the trip in you will have perhaps 15 kg including the pack raft and gun! You may have considerably more on the way out!

The ‘rule’ about side on/logs etc is because if your canoe fills with water with you still in it (or you stuck downstream of it), the water can easily weigh half a tonne – or more! You will not be able to lift yourself out of it, or it off you – and you will drown, as so many have! If you must cross a lake, go all the way round within 20 metres of shore. Lakes frequently have large standing waves which form suddenly and can tip you out. Anyway, you might find yourself in the lake water far from shore for one reason or another. It may be too far to swim, or as is often the case lake water is frequently just above zero (from shading, snow melt etc) just a few inches below the surface. Many folks have died of hypothermia before they could swim to shore, only 100 metres or so! ‘You live and learn, or you don’t live long’! Lazarus Long, ‘Time Enough for Love’, Robert Heinlein.

One of the beauties of raft hunting is that you can move your camp easily, so that you can check out much more territory. Access to cool water also makes keeping meat fresh (and clean) easier. You can easily take more food with you as it won’t be so much work carrying it, and you can catch some fresh fish/crays to supplement your diet.

Another advantage is that you can set up semi-permanent camps if you want. It is no big deal to take a canoe drum in (each) when you go, and to leave it there - so that some useful equipment is hidden away against future use. There is little risk that nefarious folk ill find or interfere with it. You might want a larger shelter, a saw, axe, some comfier folding furniture, some emergency supplies - & booze!, a quantity of salt, a hammock or two, dynamo radio, etc, etc. A good idea might be to write your contact details inside the drum lid so that if anyone should need to use them in an emergency they can contact you to arrange their replacement.

Happy Hunting!

Whitewater Rivers of Victoria: A very useful resource: (of course it is not an exhaustive list, but it might be a good start): https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1KquqzZygh-1toyLq3DTt_ItC-UM&ll=-37.852948477811616%2C146.85638701650396&z=14

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/more-about-diy-pfds/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-pack-rafting-life-vest/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-canoeing-the-seaforth/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-gippslands-rivers/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thomson-river-gippsland-victoria/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/videos/thomson-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoeing-update/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister-river/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thompson-river/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hornet-lite-pack-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/home-made-pack-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/faux-packraft-vs-alpacka-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pack-raft-saves-the-day/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-gorilla-in-the-bush/

09/12/2016: More about DIY PFDs 114 grams: You can make a lighter non compliant PFD which you fill with other inflatable items, eg Platypus bottles (I carry a 1 and 2 litre bottle, pillows (I carry the Exped Ultralight), wine bladders (who doesn’t have a few of them lying around?) and etc.

Here is the link to Mountain Laurel Designs ‘Thing’ or ‘Mopacka’: https://web.archive.org/web/20100403230340/http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=141 which weighed 4 oz (114 grams) not including its flotation ie the Platypus bottles or inflatable pillows (eg Exped’s Ultralight pillow: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/exped-ultralight-pillow/) but you carry them anyway!

Some folk have made their own. See these two discussions (I have ‘borrowed’ their photos for reference purposes – I hope they don’t mind. Thanks guys): http://packrafting.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=880 Wine bladder PFD: http://bushwalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=23122

MLD 'Thing'

MLD ‘Thing’

DIY ‘Thing’

photo RoaringLion2008138.jpg

DIY ‘Thing’

photo RoaringLion2008136.jpg

DIY ‘Thing’

NB: There is a Facebook Packrafting group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/156445288089260/ as well as an Australian Packrafting Association for folks who like to join things. Myself, I am like Groucho Marx: ‘I wouldn’t join anything which would have me as a member’!

08/12/2016: Ultralight Pack Rafting Life Vest: PFDs are often pretty heavy. Alpacka have this one http://www.alpackaraft.com/product/astral-v-eight-pfd/ at 554 grams which is (I imagine) about as light as they get. I discovered that inflatable PFDs you buy from boating supplies shops have an airline PFD inside them. When I stripped one down it weighed 282 grams as shown and should be adequate for the job.

You can (though not legally) go lighter. You can utilise an inflatable vest such as the Aerovest or Xerovest (at about 60 grams) as I did on the Seaforth. They are a bit awkward to let down again and are really not intended for the purpose.

As I have mentioned before Erin McKittrick (in her ‘Long Trek Home’: http://www.groundtruthtrekking.org/Journeys/WildCoast.html) used a converted Thermarest which she had cut a hole in for her head, and fastened it with a belt. Given thet you will need a sleeping mat anyway, this option means that your PFD maybe weighs next to nothing. You should explore this option further if you want to save more weight. The prospect of cutting down one of eg Klymit’s pads for the purpose but keeping it usable for sleeping also appeals.

Mountain Laurel Designs used to make a thing he called ‘The Thing’ which allowed you to utilise your Platypus bottle as part of a PFD system.

I suspect Alpacka’s ‘Fiord Explorer’ & etc seats could be modifiedf slightly to make a light (non-compliant) PFD. They weigh 224 grams without the straps and buckles which would be needed, so it might not be worth the trouble compared with the first example.

Another option would be to buy some of the waterproof nylon which Klymit etc use in their products which sticks to itelf with a hot iron - and make your own.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-canoeing-the-seaforth/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-gippslands-rivers/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thomson-river-gippsland-victoria/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/videos/thomson-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoeing-update/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister-river/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thompson-river/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hornet-lite-pack-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/home-made-pack-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/faux-packraft-vs-alpacka-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pack-raft-saves-the-day/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-gorilla-in-the-bush/

07/12/2016: Gippsland Pack Rafting Routes:

dsc01110-comp

It’s summer already, so time to get out and about and get wet all over. I want to suggest some interesting pack rafting that you can do by public transport (eg from Melbourne). Some of the following you can mix and match a bit, but I hope they give you some ideas. I need to add some more details, which I will fill in later on but this will be a good start. I need to work out times (river/track) campsites, water and resupply points.

Obviously the easiest trip is to begin with the Yarra. It is canoeable from MacMahon's Creek upstream from Warburton (public transport, walking). It is almost 24 hours of paddling before you arrive back at Flinders St, so this is likely to take you at least 4 days! Or,
You can catch public transport to Warburton (or to Lilydale) then begin walking the Upper Yarra Track (See: http://www.finnsheep.com/Track%20Instructions.htm) You can continue on it until you reach Rawson (resupply - some supplies also at Baw Baw Village) and the nearby Poverty Point Bridge, then canoe the Thomson River until you reach the Cowwarr Weir. NB You will have to walk around the Horseshoe Tunnel just below the Thomson River Road Bridge (See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-sidetrip-horseshoe-tunnelcoopers-creek/) You can carry on with the Thomson to Sale or you can walk back from Cowwarr (resupply) till you are just out of Traralgon where you cross the Latrobe River. Put in there and drift down via Rosedale (resupply) to Sale. Catch a train back to Melbourne.Thomson River Horseshoe Tunnel.
Catch a bus to Noojee (weekdays - supplies), then canoe the Latrobe river all the way to Sale. (Supplies Noojee, [Willow Grove], Yallourn North, Rosedale) Catch a train back, or
For a shorter trip, you could canoe from Noojee to the Yallourn Power Station - exit the bridge across the Eastern end of Halls Bay, Lake Narracan or Sir John Monash Reserve opposite the cooling towers. Walk back along the Moe-Yallourn North Rail Trail (See 4). I suspect you can put in uptream of Noojee (so that you could access the river via a shortcut from the Upper Yarra Track not long after Starlings Gap - this requires exploration). The section from the Noojee Road Bridge/Toorongo River confluence has been checked: (though you should be able to put in at Noojee township); there are a number of spots where you will have to get out. If canoeists bring along some clearing tools (See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoe-clearing/) the trip/s will become easier for subsequent 'adventurers'. There are many lovely spots where you can camp. Trout and spinyback crayfish abound - so bring some tackle! I estimate 2-3 days Noojee-Yallourn Power Station. Train Back from Moe, or
You can catch a train to Moe, walk out along the Yallourn North Rail Trail (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/), put in to the Latrobe near the Yallourn Power Station and canoe to Sale. There is a weir to negotiate shortly after the Yallourn North Road bridge. You can see it from the road. Train return, or
You can catch a train to Moe, walk up the Upper Yarra Track sections (See 3) until you reach the Thomson Bridge, (supplies Yallourn North, Erica, Cowwarr) canoe the Thomson, walk back along the rail trail from Cowarrr to Traralgon. Catch a train back.Tom's Bridge Latrobe River.
Arriving at Noojee (supplies) whether by public transport or on foot via the Upper Yarra Track & etc, put in and canoe down the Latrobe River to Camp Rd near Hill End. Walk up Russell Creek Rd &/or Rowley Hill Rd (or hitch to Costin’s Rd). Canoe down some of the Tanjil River (eg to Old Tanjil Rd) then walk up to the Western Tyers via Burns Rd & eg Wombat Rd & Tanjil Bren Rd. You can put in at Christmas Creek or Growlers. Canoe down the Tyers to Caringal. Walk across to the Thomson via Erica (supplies) as in 7 or continue on to the Latrobe and Sale (Resupply Tyers, Rosedale).Tanjil River downstream Rowleys Hill Road.
Walk across from Noojee to the Western Tyers via Tanjil Bren (See: Upper Yarra Track winter route in Track Instructions above). You can continue on the Tyers till you reach the Latrobe and follow it to Sale OR
You can get out at Tyers Junction (Caringal) and walk up the rail trail to Collins Siding and thence to Erica. You can continue to follow the rail trail http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-five-erica-to-walhalla/ to the Thomson Road Bridge, then canoe the Thomson as in 1.Western Tyers River.
Interrupt your voyage down the Thomson at Deep Creek which you can walk up (see 9 following) or canoe to the Weir, cross it North on the old wooden bridge, follow the road North till you turn left at the intersection with the Stoney Creek Rd. Walk up the Stoney Creek Rd. When you get to the T10 track, no longer marked – it is opposite a fire dam on the right hand (East) side of the road, you can either continue on to Binns intersection with the McEvoys track (also called Springs Rd) or
You can walk down the T10 till you reach Deep Creek and walk all the way up Deep Creek till it splits in two. Just where it splits, if you walk up the left (West) fork about twenty yards you will find you can walk up the ridge to your right. You can follow this ridge (on an overgrown logging track after a while) all the way to Binns. The walk up Deep Creek is extraordinarily beautiful. It is quite a lot of bush bashing, but worth it. There are some flat camp sites here and there at the end of ridges. After Binns you can carry on up and over Mt Useful until you arrive in Licola (resupply) or
Cross the Glenmaggie Creek at (eg) Porters Track to the Black Range Rd. Go up the Black Range Rd to Burgoynes Track, follow it to the Macalister. Canoe down the Macalister till you get to Sale (resupply Maffra).Macalister River upstream Cheynes Bridge.
If you continued on towards Licola along South Road you can turn East and walk down to the Barkly/Macalister (Primrose Gap - off the Jamieson Rd) at the Barkly Bridge North of Glencairn then canoe down the Macalister to Licola where you can continue on till you come to Sale , or
You can get out at Licola and walk up to the Wellington as in 13
Instead of continuing on the Macalister, get out at Cheyne’s Bridge and hitch a ride past Licola (resupply) to the Wellington River. Walk up the Wellington past LakeTali Karng and continue till you come out on the Moroka Rd. Turn west onto the Moroka Rd. After a few km you can pick up the Moroka Walking track which takes you down to the Moroka River near Higgins yards. You can put in here and follow the Moroka to its confluence with the Wonnangatta, orMoroka Falls
You could walk to the Moroka Bridge near Horseyard Flat and canoe the Moroka down to the Wonnagatta, thence to Bairnsdale. The huge waterfalls and gorge in the Moroka are very dangerous!
Instead of starting at the Tali Karng car park on the Wellington, you could hitch all the way either to the Moroka Bridge near Horseyard Flat (12) then canoe down the Moroka or
You could hitch up the Howitt Rd to near Guy’s Hut, then walk down the Dry Creek track to the Wonnangatta. Carry on walking down the Wonnangatta till you come to the Humffray Confluence whence you can canoe the river all the way to Bairnsdale as in 17.Wonnangatta River Mt Darling Creek.
From the Wonnangatta confluence you can continue all the way to Bairnsdale where you can catch a train back to Melbourne. Resupply Guy’s Caravan Park, (Waterford) by arrangement & Lindenow (or hitch into Dargo and back.)Wonnangatta River.
Alternatively you can walk up the Wonnagatta from the Moroka to the Humffray Confluence following the true right bank (there is an old pack track). Put in there and canoe down to Bairnsdale.Mitchell/Wonnagatta River downstream of Waterford
PS; If you walk the Upper Yarra Track (Warburton to Mt Whitelaw) then the Alp Track to near Woods Point, you can pick up McMillans Walking Track which gives you access to the head of the Macalister (downstream of Glencairn), the Moroka (near Higgins Yards), the Wonnagatta (Moroka confluence).
PS: Massdrop has the Klymit Lightwater Pack raft (<1kg) on sale again for around $US100. With care (and a little repair it will get you lots of places or you can go the whole hog and buy an Alpacka here: http://www.alpackaraft.com/ Their lightest raft is the ‘Ghost’ Scout at 600 grams! But you might be better with the Alpacka at 2166 grams. I also have one of these. I have the Manta Ray Carbon paddle at 840 grams. It is a very tough paddle You will find the lightest paddles here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ultralight-paddle/
Have fun and Happy Paddling!
PS: Don't forget to take some fishing tackle. Some hand line is really all you need to catch blackfish and trout (using set lines on whippy saplings if you like) You can use the heads etc as bait for crays. A folding landing net would be an asset (and some Alfoil!)
I'm sure readers can help me with some of extra information, as well as suggesting some additional/alternative routes - I know you can get to Hotham and Omeo by bus, for example This gives one walking access to the Mitta Mitta (canoeable downstream from above the Glen Valley Bridge) Resupply Dartmouth. Mitta Mitta. Train back from Albuty. You could walk up along the Alps Track from Mt Whitelaw to reach Woods Point (supplies) which might begin a journey for you down the Goulburn (public transport back from Shepparton/Seymour) & etc Getting onto the Snowy would also be good. I will think about that some more...
The Snowy: You may not know there is public transport to Bombala from Melbourne/Canberra: https://www.ptv.vic.gov.au/timetables/linemain/1718 The Snowy is canoeable from Cambalong Road 6km West of Bombala. (Ask: the bus driver may let you off at the Cann River turnoff saving you a few miles walk). You will need plenty of food! It is almost two weeks from here to Orbost…Also, note: The bus stops at the Bemm River turnoff. This means you can walk ‘The Wilderness Coast’ (19 days) using public transport! A packraft ewould help with getting across some of the inlets along the way!
Top Photo; Latrobe River near Noojee Road Bridge.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-gippslands-rivers/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thomson-river-gippsland-victoria/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/videos/thomson-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoe-trip/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river-canoeing-update/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister-river/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-macalister-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thompson-river/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hornet-lite-pack-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/home-made-pack-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/faux-packraft-vs-alpacka-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pack-raft-saves-the-day/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-gorilla-in-the-bush/

12/10/2016: Ultralight Paddle: If you have an ultralight packraft you will need an ultralight paddle. Our lightest weighs 409.5grams. It was an Alpacka ultralight model, now alas discontinued. They also used to sell ‘Ninja paddles’ which fitted on your hiking poles. (Perhaps check the Wayback Machine: http://archive.org/web/) – they may still be available elsewhere; A comparable one is still made by these folks: 406 grams: https://supaiadventuregear.com/shop/paddle/

Here are some others: 670 grams: http://www.advancedelements.com/accessories/paddles/; 822 grams : http://www.king-cart.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?store=pacificdesigns&product=Paddles&exact_match=exact (I believe used to make our14 ounce 409.5 gram models; maybe ask); 826 grams: http://www.alpackaraft.com/product/sawyer/; 840 grams: http://www.alpackaraft.com/product/manta-ray-carbon/

We have the Sawyer and Manta Ray paddles as well. They are excellent whitewater paddles. I guess it works like this: If you are using a packraft for mostly flat water and river crossings you will want to go with the lightest raft (possibly a Klymit: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-packraft/) and the lightest paddles. If you are exploring more technical water you will want to go with a tougher raft such as an Alpacka (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-canoeing-the-seaforth/) and a tougher paddle. ‘Horses for courses’, as they say.

I am contemplating walking from Macquarie Harbour (Strachan Tasmania) to Bathurst Harbour (Melaleuca) which will take a month and involve crossing several rivers and other bodies of water. As I will have to carry a month’s food, the choice of watercraft is also crucial.

Paddle3

Pictured; Subai Ultralight paddle (NB: The four pieces on the left are the paddle; the other bits are extraneous)

19/09/2016: Hornet-Lite Pack Raft: I see there is a new alternative pack raft on the market: ‘The Hornet-Lite is the lightest packraft in Kokopelli's fleet weighing in at 4.9 pounds (2223 grams) including the seat. Kokopelli has designed the Hornet-lite packraft to be functional while reducing weight and maximizing compactness. This packraft is ideal for crossing rivers, high alpine lake fishing and wide calm rivers’ so says their description: http://www.kokopellipackraft.com/adventure-series/hornet-lite It is a bit cheaper at US$525 than (most of) the Alpackas (http://www.alpackaraft.com/) but may not have the same durability as comparably priced models there. Another cheaper still choice for flatter water is Klymit’s offering: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/klymit-packraft/ Cheaper still is my Faux Pack Raft: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/home-made-pack-raft/

Pack Raft Links:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/alpacka-pack-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/home-made-pack-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/solo-pack-rafting-with-a-motorbike/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/pack-raft-saves-the-day/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/lightweight-packrafts/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/alpacka-rafts/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/faux-packraft-vs-alpacka-raft/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-canoeing-the-seaforth/

02/07/2015: Lightweight packrafts: Some new packrafts and paddles will make it easier to cross rivers and lakes. These two (suitable for flat water/Grade 1 rapids) weigh less than a kilo: Alpacka ‘ghost’: https://alpackarafts.com/product/ghost/ @ 1.5 lb & $595 and Klymit LiteWater Dinghy: http://www.klymit.com/index.php/litewater-dinghy-lwd.html now 35 oz & $199. Note also this ultralight paddle: http://www.packrafting-store.de/Paddle/Special-paddle/Supai-Olo::472.html @ 365 grams!

Perhaps I will add one of these to our Alpacka and Fiord Explorer Packrafts!

01/12/2011: Home Made Pack Raft: If you would like to try packrafting on the cheap I have posted my idea about the home made packraft:

Faux and real packraft, top view after use.

I have bought a $40 raft (Intex) from Clark Rubber and reinforced it with a layer of poly tarp which can be attached to it with polyethylene tape (from greenhouse suppliers), ‘Gaffer’ or ‘Duct’ tape. You could also use tarp clips if you prefer. This makes it well-nigh indestructible. The tarps come in three weights: 100grams/square metre, 150 and 200 equating roughly to 4,5 & 7 oz per square yard). It is possible to make a double paddle up with the oars they supply by cutting a thread on the end of the plastic handle – or you can buy a piece of continuous thread of and cut off an approx 2″ length. The paddle is VERY delicate. The advantage of such rafts is that they are very cheap and can be stowed in your favourite hunting spot approx two per 25 litre canoe drum. Then when the need arises to transport some venison out or if you twist your ankle or are just in a hurry to return to your beloved, they come in very handy and are not so expensive if they are lost to a flood or wildfire. You can saw the rowlocks off if they get in your way. I use my inflatable sleeping mat in the bottom for extra padding, flotation and insulation from cold water. I think they make a very good introduction to packrafting.I do not intend that they should be seen as competition to Alpackas but they might well lead someone on to buying such a more robust raft after they have thoroughly trashed their ‘cheapie’.

I own an unrigged Fiord Explorer which I explicitely bought for that eponymous purpose. I hiked three days in Fiordland New Zealand to just below Loch Marie on the Seaforth River and rafted down the river to the Dusky Sound (or Fiord) in 2009. Not a bad effort for a 60 year old. There were a really lot of people sized sharks in the Fiord so that part of the trip was rather exciting, but the hut at Supper Cove at the end of the trip is maybe the most beautiful place on earth. You can find lots of snaps on Google Earth. There are also at least two rapids which MUST be watched for and portaged. I believe I may have been the first person to solo canoe the Seaforth River but I understand a deer culler with a broken leg was rafted down the river on a tractor inner tube during the 1960’s. I came in from Lake Hauroko. If you came in from Manapouri you could raft down from the Kintail Hut to Loch Marie. I know there are a couple of rapids and a Lake in this stretch but I have not (yet) paddled it. You can paddle across the Loch being very careful to avoid the innumerable submerged branches but you MUST portage out of the Loch. There is an immense cascade at the exit. Put back in below the Bishop Burn. An ‘Aerovest’ makes a very cheap, light life jacket though it is not recommended or legal for this purpose. It is certainly a lot better than NO life jacket. It also keeps you warm. You need both the straws it comes with. One to inflate it and one to deflate it to just the right ‘fit’. You could use another piece of tape to attach it more securely. I figure it WOULD save your life. See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-canoeing-the-seaforth/

Faux and real packraft bottom view (after use).

Further thoughts: I have successfully had an overnight trip on Grade 2+ to Grade3 water here in Southern Victoria using one of my ‘faux packrafts’ as described in my previous posts. I made up a four point tie down for my pack across the bow of the boat with some twine and a 3/4″ belt buckle type plastic clip which are common on packs etc. This worked well if I needed to quickly release the pack to perform portages etc. I towed an empty 20 litre canoe drum behind the raft (atached by another quick release clip) so that I would have somewhere in the forest to safely stow the raft and paddle (against winter hunting use) when I was finished the trip and wanted to walk out. This also worked well. The Gaffa tape held up fine, but I have since thought that some form of clips would work bettter as I would be able to use the tarp as an overnight groundheet or easily replace one tarp with another. Suitable clips are available illustrated here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-twin-fire-shelter/ for 89 cents each. I use these in creating my Tyvek ‘diamond’ shelters. I estimate that 8-12 would be good and that you would daisy chain them together and tension them with a light cord to hold the edge of the tarp on the inside of the boat. If you felt this was too much to spend, you can use a number of marbles, round pebbles, polystyrene balls (avail. ‘Spotlight’) and fix each in place with a loop of twine (looped over itself and the marble) which you then daisy chain together as before. I used a heavy duty poly tarp for the bottom reinforcement.

After eight hours of scraping over rocks and logs etc there was some minor delamination in places of the outer coloured surface of the tarp. I estimate you would get a number of days’ of rough use out of one $12 tarp. It might even be a good idea to do this with your genuine packraft just to extend its useable life. I took along some Araldite (two part epoxy) glue just in case I needed to fix a broken ABS plastic paddle the raft came with, but as I was careful in using the paddle this wasn’t necessary. I had some trouble getting just the right sized nut to make into a die to cut the thread on the end of the oar I needed to make it into three section double bladed padddle. I had to use a nut which was only approximately right and finish the thread off with small triangular file. The thread appeared to be almost a 32mm coarse metric thread. I need to do a little more searching to get just the right nut. I made hacksaw cuts on the inside thread at each point of the six points of the nut, and finished off the cutting edge with small triangular file. This worked fine to cut a thread in the soft plastic material, but as I said before, I have to hunt a little further afield to get just the right nut to match the thread on the end of the oar on this brand of raft. You may be luckier with a different brand of raft. Happy ‘faux’ rafting.

06/08/2015: I have been thinking about this for a long time, but have got only as far as http://www.theultralighthiker.com/home-made-pack-raft/ whilst others have ACTED: This girl is seriously clever: http://www.instructables.com/id/Backyard-Duct-Tape-Kayak/ here is another variation: http://www.instructables.com/id/Duct-Tape-and-PVC-Kayak/ and http://www.shelter-systems.com/kayak.html and a coracle: http://thehomesteadsurvival.com/build-coracle-person-boat-twigs/ or https://books.google.com.au/books?id=RQUETx6ha48C&pg=PA12&lpg=PA12&dq=tarp+coracle&source=bl&ots=tLN_3AyKJU&sig=2Sd_eiIyMaRThg2I3bd0Woj9jWU&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CC4Q6AEwA2oVChMI-ObshLuRxwIVJiqmCh3xhgjC#v=onepage&q=tarp%20coracle&f=false This is probably the next step up: http://gaboats.com/ or this: http://www.instructables.com/id/Skin-on-Frame-Canoe/

10/08/2015: Duct tape Raft: Further to my post here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/diyemergency-watercraft/ I have been thinking, ‘Can one make a raft ENTIRELY from Duct Tape?’ This may be a good team building exercise for your next in-service – or maybe I should just maroon you on an island somewhere with nothing but duct tape and bananas for a time and see what happens? My solution is to form the duct tape into a tube, then lengthen the tube into a doughnut, then tape in a duct tape floor. Throughout I would use double thickness so that the non-sticky side is always on the outside (but also on the inside of the doughnut so it doesn’t stick to itself). You would leave a small inflation hole which you would blow up by mouth, then seal. It might not be good for Grade 3 rapids (though duct tape is surprisingly tough) but it would get you safely across an icy river, for example.

My next (slightly more practical) project is to see whether a ‘standard’ 5’ x 7’ silnylon poncho (without a hole (as I posted about here: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hole-less-ponchoshelter/) could be used for the ‘skin’ of a (very) small canoe which would (in an emergency) get you safely across a similar obstacle. You could only make a craft whose internals were (approx) 5’ x 3’ with sides 1’ high. This is very cosy, but surely enough? That’s approx 15 cubic feet to displace. My plastic kayaks are less than 10’ long and average much less than 2’ wide and are less than 1’ high, so comparable: there should be enough flotation in such a craft. I welcome suggestions.

19/09/2015: More Emergency Boats: The Tarp Boat: This demonstration leads me more and more to the inescapable conclusion that it would be possible to make a canoe using a poncho as the skin. More about that later: http://willowhavenoutdoor.com/general-survival/improvised-tarp-boat/

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02/11/2014: I guess one of the great pleasures of canoeing is that you so rarely see anyone else canoeing. In 25 years canoeing (various sections) of the Macalister (for example) we ran into other canoeists just once. On that occasion one of them STOLE my spare paddle, which would have left me quite literally ‘up the creek…’ except I had another. I could NOT persuade police to CHARGE this piece of slime (eg with ‘conduct endangering life’), but I did succeed in having him sacked from his job as he was driving a company car with a prominent (Japanese Co) logo (whom when I rang them) they did not want to have associated with such conduct. The further you get away from people, the more civilised it gets (in my experience). I am all FOR bad roads (or NO roads at all!) Mind you this morning I AM feeling for the (fellow) hiker who offered me a lift on Friday when we were canoeing the Macalister. He was heading for a multi-day hike in the Bryce’s Gorge area (I suggested a few interesting side trips he might take and pointed out to him the location of an abandoned hut he might seek shelter in in the event of bad weather. Mind you, whilst I knew the weekend might bring some RAIN, I did not realise then that there would be (lots of) snow down to 1200 metres, so he will be VERY cold this morning, and hopefully he found shelter. You DO have to remember that BLIZZARD conditions can occur at any time of the year (quite unexpectedly) in the Victorian Alps! It PAYS to be prepared which is why I ALWAYS carry a spare paddle – and various other aids to survival…a .308 comes in handy betimes too!

07/06/2015: CANOEING GIPPSLAND RIVERS: I have had some feedback to my posts about the Tanjil River (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tanjil-river/), Latrobe Rivers & etc. Some people phoned to thank me for an enjoyable trip on this section of the Tanjil. They are WINTER canoeists employing sit-on canoes and wet suits to access the much higher river levels usually available in the cooler months (.65 metres as compared with .45 metres in February). This extra 200mm (8”) of water fair scooted them along so that they finished this section in 2 ½ hours, half my February time! They were kind enough to invite me along on their next expedition - even offering the loan of a canoe (I would also need a wetsuit). I AM more into hiking/hunting in the cooler months and canoeing in the summer, but we will see. I am also not sure how my balance (Menier's) will cope with sit-on-top canoeing. Certainly the winter months give access to MANY more of the smaller streams in Gippsland. Update: They have now completed the section downstream from Costins Rd (bridge) to the Rowleys Hill Rd Bridge in 5 1/2 hours at a gauge height of .6 metres. They said the first half (to the Staircase track) had more than a dozen logs which needed portaging (or chainsawing), and that the second half was more enjoyable. The trip from Costins Rd to Casuarina track therefore takes over 7 hours at these heights (which is probably an overnight trip). In summer (above at .45-.5 metres it is likely to take half as long again, so might be spread out over 2-3 days with some clearing work along the way! They told me they have canoed the Morwell River – a surprise - (downstream from the bridge at the East Branch Confluence) to Monash Way, the Traralgon Creek (from ABOVE Traralgon), & the Tyers from the W12 down to the pumping station. They have also completed two sections on the Latrobe: Hawthorn Creek (Bridge) to Camp Creek (4WD needed for take-out - 4 hours at a gauge height of .95 - Willow Grove), and a section upstream of Lake Narracan. They have also completed a section on the Wellington from one of Tali Karng Track road bridge downstream to Licola. As I have (20 years ago) canoed the Western Tyers from Growlers to Tyers Junction, and from there to Delpretes Road (in summer) on the Tyers, I think we can say that with some work the Tyers CAN be made into an excellent long-distance (local) canoeing adventure – likewise the Latrobe (from the Noojee Bridge just upstream of the Toorongo confluence (perhaps even further upstream!) to Lake Narracan and beyond). Each of these rivers would provide multi-day trips very close to the Latrobe Valley towns. If people would take a small bow saw when they attempt a section, leaving plenty of time for removing small timber, later folk can come along with a chain saw and remove the larger timber. In summer, it is pleasant and easy to stop and move some rocks from pebbles races and chutes to make them more navigable too. There already are some lovely campsites along each river. I’m sure a handful of others will not go astray! The prospect of winter canoe trips invites some exploration of other of the regions smaller waterways, eg the East & Western Tarwin (I have years ago summer canoed from near Meeniyan on the South Gippsland Highway to Tarwin Lower), the Freestone Creek, the Wellington, Wentworth & Dargo, Moroka, Upper Macalister, Barkly, the (upper) Nicholson, the Avon & Turton (perhaps), the Tarra Rivers. It may even be worth looking at the Bunyip, Tarrango, Tarago, Bass…Once you get into East Gippsland, the possibilities are well-nigh endless…PS: I see some others have been exploring the Tyers UPSTREAM of Christmas Creek - so I think we CAN say the river IS canoeable from there to the Latrobe River Confluence (which MAY take close to a WEEK), but MUCH work need to be done on it: https://www.adventurepro.com.au/paddleaustralia/pa.cgi?action=details&id=uppertyersriverwestbranch#.VXN-REb0ncs & https://www.adventurepro.com.au/paddleaustralia/pa.cgi?action=details&id=Tyers_River#.VXN-dUb0ncs

07/11/2015: Thomson River Canoe Trip: Here (as promised): http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thomson-river-gippsland-victoria/ is the video I shot of Steve Cleaver and I canoeing the Thomson River Gippsland Victoria Australia circa 2006. What a great trip! Click to open and play. Got to Youtube for full screen. This is the raw, unedited footage and soundtrack just as I shot it. These are 12′ Nylex ‘Pioneer’ Canadian canoes which Della has made some press-studded covers for supported by 3/8″ fibreglass electric fence posts. They have worked quite well enough for thirty years now! See also: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thomson-river-gippsland-victoria/

Gorge: Steve Cleaver

05/11/2015: Canoeing the Thomson River, Gippsland, Victoria:

Mini Gorge: Della Jones

I have canoed this wonderful river so many times over more than thirty years, from the Thomson Dam to Cowwarr Weir. Much of the water in the section from the dam to the Walhalla Rd Bridge was stolen by Melbourne Water nearly twenty years ago, so it is rare nowadays to be able to canoe it – and if you find enough water you will likely find it rather choked with logs. You can put in at the Narrows Gauge if you just want a short trip on a hot day; this also avoids the chute and 3 metre waterfall immediately below the Low Saddle Track which many find somewhat intimidating. I have seen others come to grief there. One would certainly have died had I not been there. And I dropped and spilled my beer when rescuing him. Damn it! I doubt his life was worth one cold beer. Is anyone’s? It is about five hours from the dam, about two from the Narrows Gauge. Best height this section is above .5 metres at the Narrows Gauge. From the Walhalla Rd Bridge to Coopers Creek the river diverts through a tunnel so there is a long portage - meaning most folks avoid this section.

Fun below the Gorge, Bryn Jones

The best section today is a two day trip from Bruntons Bridge to Cowwarr Weir. You can convert this into a very leisurely three day trip in hot weather by putting in at Coopers Creek, which adds about three hours to the trip. When the water level is high, ie .3-.5 metres as measured at the Coopers Creek Gauge - See: http://www.bom.gov.au/cgi-bin/wrap_fwo.pl?IDV60154.html) it can be canoed in a very hectic single day if you start very early. Typical water levels are more likely .2-.25 metres at Coopers Creek which makes it almost impossible to complete the trip in a single day. Most canoe books recommend a minimum height of .3 metres, but if you waited for that you would likely never canoe the river in the warmer months. I have come down it at a gauge height of .18 metres which required me to drag my boat across about a dozen pebble races, but still a lovely trip and great fun. The river can be quite dangerous over .5 metres. I know intrepid paddlers who would wait until it was .8 or even 1 metre, but it would not be me – or you either, if you want to live through it!

Lovely water: Bryn Jones

The best thing about the two canoeable sections above Bruntons Bridge (for me) was that I could canoe them alone just using a mountain bike to get back to my canoe at the beginning of the trip – and I often did, back in the 80s and early 90s. Beautiful bike rides and a few hours of great canoeing. The section below Bruntons really needs a motorbike as well as a car (if you are going to canoe it alone) as it is quite a long ride from Cowwarr to Bruntons.

Lots of Grade 2 rapids

Above Bruntons Bridge the river is darker, shadier – and there are many more leeches! Below Bruntons it opens out a lot. It is warmer and sunnier with plenty of opportunities for swimming. In warm weather you can spend many lazy days slowly descending the river which otherwise takes about two 6-7 hour days. You can troll a lure many places and catch a feed of fresh trout for tea every night which taste delicious roasted in some Alfoil in the hot coals with some potatoes. Don’t forget some butter, salt and lemon. Trolling works much better at about .3 metres height as you will snag a lot when it is shallower, but lures are cheap – and can be made from ring-pulls & etc. Otherwise you can bait or fly fish when you camp – or go for a swim with a hand spear. There are seldom many policemen about! There are however many large freshwater crays!

Marble Quarry Chute

Bryn Jones Swimming

There are many spots along the way you can camp, particularly below the Gorge. Be warned, however: there is about a week in summer when they let out a heap of water from the dam as an ‘environmental flow’. This can put the height up overnight eg from .25 metres to .5 metres, so be sure your camp is a bit higher than this and that your canoes are dragged up well clear of the water – otherwise you may be in for a nasty shock. I have asked those in authority to post this as a warning on the BOM River Heights Page, but as is usual with public servants, no-one is responsible, or willing to do any work! Pretty much the only spot you cannot camp is at the ‘designated camp spot just below the end of the T9 track which became overgrown twenty years ago! There is a small spot just upstream of there. There is another spot just before the Gorge. You cannot camp in the Gorge. You can walk out up the T9 track from the camp I mentioned: there is a large tree on the right bank with the number 20 painted on it at the ‘designated camp site’. (It is only 100 metes to the T9 track) and a much easier walk than the ‘designated escape route’ up onto the Marble Quarry Track, a very steep climb of about a km.

Camp at T9 Track

You can put in for a day trip too at the end of the T9 track, now officially closed – but who cares? I had a walking track extending upstream and down from its end but it is no doubt overgrown somewhat now. Feel free to clear it again though. You need a (good) 4WD for the last approx 1 km on the T9 and there is very limited room to perform a six-point turn. Be warned. It is a good place to put in for a day’s pack rafting though, as you can easily walk down. Another good spot to put in for a day trip (before the fire) used to be off the end of the Mitchell Creek No X Track where a walking track to a campsite by the river used to exist, a spot I have always called ‘The Poplars’ as will be obvious to you when you get there. It would be nice to restore this too! You can also enjoy a day’s packrafting by accessing the river from the T6 track off the Stony Creek Rd.

Bryn Jones

From the weir to Marble Quarry Track there are many entertaining Grade 2 rapids which may be somewhat more difficult to negotiate at lower water levels. After Marble Quarry there is a minor gorge section which is very pretty. The first chute rapid after Marble Quarry has a boulder in it near the bottom which can tip you over to your right. Beware of doing so and hitting your head. I usually stop for a cold drink at the base of the ridge off the Marble Quarry Track where there used to be an excellent camp site constructed by some miners who used to drive down the ridge from the B3.1 track. Feel free to clear that track too.

Gorge: Steve Cleaver

It is quite pleasant to walk up some of the beautiful creeks which enter the Thomson in this section, particularly Lammers and Deep Creek. Both can hold excellent blackfish in deep pools. You can walk all the way up Deep Creek, climb the ridge where it splits in two (you will find an old track there) and exit at Binns Junction. It is an excellent day or overnight walk. Very private now too since our ‘masters’ have closed all the access tracks to Deep Creek (T10, D1 & 2 etc). If you are quiet you are likely to see a deer or two. There are some pleasant little flats to camp on bends in the stream. It is an astonishingly beautiful valley! You can walk down the (closed) T10 track from the Stony Creek Rd to gain vehicular access – or feel free to bring the chainsaw and open it again! It is on the West side of the Stony Creek Rd opposite the only fire dam.

Mini Gorge: Brett Irving

The Gorge is the section which most daunts Della now she has lost so much of her eyesight, and I don’t wonder. If I had less than 50% sight it would daunt me too. It is such a shame though that she can no longer canoe the Thomson because of this, as it is an astonishingly beautiful (and varied) river. It takes about an hour to get through the Gorge which begins about a quarter hour below the 20 km Tree. There is not much stopping; it can be difficult to find a spot to empty your boat if it becomes swamped particularly above .3, or .5 metres. Last time I was down the river there was a quite dangerous log jam towards the end – which would be a very dangerous trap for unwary players. Watch out for it. You could stop just before it (on the right) and walk around. There are some wonderful camps starting below the Gorge. You don’t need to stop at the very first one (on the left) which is very nice as there are lots more!

Gorge: Steve Jones

Gorge: Alan Hall.

Below the Gorge (and elsewhere) there are delightful flat, placid sections where you can just about go to sleep in the boat.

Della loves these clear, quiet sections.

Della Jones: asleep?

Della Jones

About a half hour below ‘The Poplars’ you come to ‘The Triple Stager’. It is certainly a Grade Three rapid! You should not be asleep then; I once was – a very dangerous descent of the left hand channel (Don’t!) suddenly sans canoe! Fortunately I was wearing a life jacket else I would not be here to tell the tale! It is on a left hand bend. The river forks. Take the right fork. There are three distinct drops. It may be a good idea to get out on the right bank before the first and reconnoitre. You can carry your boat all the way to the bottom of the third drop (about 100 metres of rock hopping) if you so desire. Or, you can carefully descend each in turn, choosing to portage the third if your courage or foolhardiness is not up to it! The first two are best approached on the right side of the river, and you can finish each in a small still pool. To shoot the third you need to start on the left side of the river, then cross to the right as you enter it. There is a large boulder just left of centre which needs to be passed on the right. It can tip you our very nastily! Here is a photo of Della descending the Third Stage backwards, as it turns out – a very dangerous practice, but we have had lots of practice at being dangerous!

Della Jones: Triple Stager: Third Stage.

Della Jones: Triple Stager: 1st and 2nd stages.

The next Grade Three rapid is the Boulder Rapid which comes after about a half hour of a wonderful downhill section. It is a huge boulder which just about completely blocks the river – but that is not he worst bit of it. You should pull out on the left bank and inspect this rapid. If you have any doubt about it, drag your boat right around it on the left hand side. I have thought about clearing a complete new route around the right hand side of this rapid but I fear it is probably too much hard lifting for my back now. Otherwise there is a very sharp left turn followed very abruptly by a right turn, then you must go down the exact correct (centre) chute or you will be on the rocks and may break your arm. Be warned! That being said, it is a wonderful fun rapid and I have sometimes dragged my boat back up it to have a second go! Some of us are mad! Might not now I am nearly 70. I hope to see again this summer though!

Below the Gorge: Fred Bowman

Strange things the river has wrought: Fred Bowman

Boulder Rapid: Della Jones

Boulder Rapid: Brett Irving

The last Grade 3 rapid is less than another half hour downriver and is called ‘The Chute’. The whole river goes through a narrow cut less than six foot wide. It goes through very fast I can tell you, so you had better be lined up dead square or you will think you have just been through a washing machine. If your boat gets side on to it, it will snap it in two in a trice and plough you straight through it to boot. Lined up straight, it is a doddle. You may not see it coming, (though there is a steel ladder on your left just before it gives access to the gauge there). Keep to the right in the pool above it from where you will be able to spot it OK and line yourself up. You can drive down to it in a decent 4WD. It is the T2 track off the Stony Creek Rd. It is quite a popular swimming hole where suicidal youths jump off the rocks allowing themselves to be deliberately sucked through it. Some will not live long!

Bryn Jones

About a km above ‘The Chute’ there is a much more daunting rapid (I think) which I call ‘Crocodile Falls’ on account of finding once a toy crocodile there. It is on a right hand bend below a substantial still pool. The river runs rapidly downhill for perhaps 200 metres over quite broken rocks. It is much worse at low water levels such as you are liable to find there now. I have spent a number of hours moving large rocks there trying to make the run safer, but it needs more work. Feel free. If you come out near the top (likely) you will tumble over a lot of rocks before you get to the bottom. It can be portaged on the left hand side but there are many blackberries.

Crocodile Falls: Simon Schutte

After the chute there are a number of small entertaining drops, but soon you are in the backwaters of the weir and if the wind is blowing upriver (it almost always is) it can be a substantial paddle the last half hour or so. I usually aim for the point on the far left hand side at the weir where the old (closed) bridge shortcut to Stony Creek Road is to be found. Do not walk barefoot in the weir. Many idiots over the years have smashed glass bottles there!

Nearly there: Della Jones

STAY TUNED: I filmed a one hour video of myself and Steve Cleaver canoeing the Thomson in 2008. I WILL figure out how to post it soon, I promise!

05/11/2015: Some things (plants for eg) are very patient (unlike myself). I certainly wouldn’t hang around in the Atacama Desert waiting for this to happen, but I am not a mallow: http://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/world-driest-desert-breathtaking-bloom-atacama-180957104/?no-ist

Atacama Wildflowers

26/05/2015: DUSKY TRACK: CANOEING THE SEAFORTH: Some folks are just downright suicidal, and sometimes I am one of them! In 2009 I had conceived a plan to be the first person (I think) to canoe the mighty remote Seaforth River in Fiordland NZ. I had a brand-new Alpacka ‘Fjord Explorer’ packraft (https://alpackarafts.com/product/fjord-explorer/) courtesy of Kevin Rudd’s bushfire compensation scheme following the 2010 fires here which left us trapped at home for weeks with fires burning all around us. That year I walked in from Lake Hauroko to Loch Marie (3 days). On the fourth day I canoed across the lake, then walked down to just past the Bishop Burn and spent the rest of the day canoeing the Seaforth. I had carefully checked out the river from Google Earth which MISSES some BIG rapids -Trust Me! I had also walked around that lower section of the Seaforth quite a lot of times so I THOUGHT it was pretty safe. Well, I knew there were a couple of quite deadly rapids, but I was indecently confident I would hear them coming up and could safely portage them. (Every man has a plan which WILL NOT WORK!) Most of the river is deep and wide and consists of pebble races or Grade 1-2 rapids at most. Unfortunately, there ARE 2-3 rapids which come up on you pretty quickly, which it would be DEATH to attempt, and which are quite difficult to portage. The worst was in the general vicinity of the old Supper Cove Hut. Suddenly on a left-hand bend, there it was: with perpendicular river banks both sides, but no other option but to grasp a tree root on the right bank and hang on for dear life! I DID manage to climb 5 metres up that vertical bank pulling myself up by the tree root, then haul up my pack and the raft (both of which I had tied to a line) after me. There was one other nasty rapid below this - which I had never seen even though I had walked that section near the mouth of the Henry Burn (Moose Creek) extensively. Once I was in the flat water below I THOUGHT I was home safe. By then it was getting pretty cold and daylight was fading. I had realised that there were oodles of sharks in the Fiord but I thought to avoid them by paddling the shallows on the margins of Supper Cove. I had forgotten the 2-3 kilometres of tidal DEEP river above the Fiord, which teemed with them! They were mighty curious too, repeatedly cruising underneath the raft, gently LIFTING it as they rubbed underneath. It WAS a little unnerving! Steve must not have been on their menu THAT day! I had this experience about twenty times before I made Supper Cove where you can be sure I hugged its margins like a drunken sailor! However, as you can see I MADE it – much to the astonishment of the (few) onlookers, including my daughter Irralee, who had been anxiously awaiting me there for three days! The Seaforth River IS a beautiful and exhilarating trip. I somewhat regret I might not paddle it again though!

Thousands of beautiful tarns on the way across from Lake Roe – Seaforth in the background

First view of the Seaforth coming across from Lake Roe

A very steep descent to Loch Marie

Putting in to cross Loch Marie

Putting in below the Bishop Burn: Some beautiful serene stretches of river along the way

Quite a few log jams along the way

Some beautiful views along the river

One of those ‘killer’ rapids I avoided

Some awesome views

One of those vertical banks I had to climb

Supper Cove Hut loomed a welcome sight after such a river journey

My daughter Irralee waiting for me on the Boat Shed beach at Supper Cove

Sunset over Supper Cove Hut

Packraft and Big Agnes mattress/floor inside Supper Cove Hut

Great fishing for Blue Cod at Supper Cove

01/11/2014: MACALISTER RIVER: We have been canoeing various sections of this river for over 25 years. Our favourite section has been: Basin Flat to Cheynes Bridge. This is one of the few rivers you can canoe with one vehicle by hitch hiking as the road parallels and comes back to the river . I guess you could do the same on sections of the Wonnangatta, Mitta etc. We normally drop the boats off on the river bank at Basin Flat and drive the car back to Cheynes Bridge, park conspicuously on the road, then put the thumb out. The first car usually figures you have broken down, so you are back at Basin Flat within about 40 minutes of dropping the boats off. We did this trip again yesterday (30C). This is getting to be a trip which we would (probably) enjoy more as a two dayer (we ARE getting older) but also the wider river (following fires, floods, willow removal, etc) has slowed the trip down somewhat, so that what used to take 4 hours has crept up to nearer 5-6. The dogs and portages slowed us down a lot. If I did a bit of work on some of the timber down, and cleared some of the trickier rapids a bit, it would speed it up. I did this years ago when we used to run it regularly in four hours. This MAY happen, but there are so many other things to do…There are some nice places to camp, so it should best be considered as a weekend trip. There are lots of fish to catch, and numerous deer, so the extra day can be well-spent! The river height on the Licola gauge yesterday was 1.68, quite adequate water. 1.7 is really nice. I feel you could still have an enjoyable trip with some more portages 50mm lower than this, say a minimum of 1.63. I would say it would be a bit too dangerous over 1.8 metres.

Gorge: below Burgoynes

Tiny enjoyed the trip!

In hot pursuit

I said, 'Sit on the bag, Spot or you'll fall in!'

'Spot' the figurehead

They say water finds its own level, but sometimes it does so in unexpected ways...

Below Burgoynes

The tree on the right would make this Grade 3 rapid: Death!

Where DID all our water GO? When the kids were young we used to be able to canoe the Macalister or Wonnangatta pretty much all summer. We used to love the trip from Basin Flat to Cheyne’s Bridge on the Macalister, and Kingwell Bridge to Scorpion Creek on the Wonnangatta. The last (ten!) years there hasn’t been enough water. Today for example, the Macalister has 1.54 @ Licola (min 1.63); the Wonnangatta 1.65 @ Waterford (min 1.8); the Thomson has .25 @ Coopers Creek (.3 is best, but I have canoed it down to .19!)…Trouble is, Della won’t ‘do’ the Gorge any more because of her eyesight – and that she always falls out (WARNING: last time I canoed it there was a dangerous log-jam near the end of the Gorge: it WOULD kill you in high water eg above .5 @ Coopers if you were unable to portage!). I WILL cut a walking track from the Mitchell Creek Track so those with packrafts (us!) can have a day trip from below the Gorge and above the Triple Stager (walk around on true right bank – walk around Boulder rapid on true left bank; take CARE to be lined up for the Chute). I did clear (and create a walking track to the river) the T9 (off the Stoney Creek Rd) for single day trips a few years ago but it needs more work now (and as it is ABOVE the Gorge, this may be someone else’s job!) So that’s why I am looking to making some canoeing opportunities on the Tyers (below Moondarra ‘environmental flows’ keep it canoeable though some bottom scraping – and it WILL need reclearing) and on the upper Latrobe: I’ll keep you posted on that! River heights here: http://www.bom.gov.au/cgi-bin/wrap_fwo.pl?IDV60154.html

04/01/2015: Yesterday we continued our reconnaissance of Trafalgar/Noojee’s ‘Little India’, a peninsula of forest which hangs down from the mountains into the lush Gippsland farmland along the upper Latrobe River. Though the Hawthorn Creek Bridge campsite has been closed (too many idiots apparently), there are many beautiful bush camps sprinkled about. We spent a couple of pleasant hours at one at the end of Camp Rd via Hill End (recommended). You can clearly put in/take out at Connection Rd (via Willow Grove) if you are planning to canoe the Upper Latrobe. I figure it will take (at least) two days down from Noojee. We will try a couple of short sections first (in the pack rafts (see http://www.alpackaraft.com/ ) to establish the degree of difficulty, duration, etc before launching in to an expedition. I am imagining 4-5 days from Noojee to the park opposite Yallourn PS’s cooling towers. It is a further 5 days from Tom’s Bridge to Longford (bridge), and a further 2 to Batts Landing on Lake Wellington. I don’t know whether you can canoe from Yallourn PS to Tom’s Bridge. It looks like a fortnight’s canoeing anyway can be had on one of Victoria’s ‘neglected’ rivers. (I cannot find any information anywhere on the canoeability of this river (or many others), though THIS is a useful site for some: https://www.adventurepro.com.au/paddleaustralia/#.VKSPWnspoac I would NOT recommend canoeing the Moroka (as these guys did) though – if you value your life! There is a photograph of them coming over the Moroka Falls. Has to be a 30’ drop!

TANJIL RIVER: 11/02/2015: Wonderful wedding anniversary: first a pioneering canoe trip on the Tanjil River followed by a lovely meal at Morwell’s Gaztronomy Restaurant. Many happy returns Della Jones. The Tanjil IS canoeable from Rowley’s Ridge Rd (bridge/gauging station) to Blue Rock Dam (Steve’s Track/Casuarina Track – off Rowley’s Ridge Rd via Hill End) just as I suspected. There are almost no trees across it, and I had to get out of the boat only once or twice. That is an Alpaca Fiord Explorer packraft you see in the pictures which Della purchased for me so I could become the first person to canoe the mighty Seaforth River in Fiordland NZ in 2009. It is a great boat for this type of river. Many of the rapids/pebble races could use some time spent clearing rocks out of them to make a clear passage, which we will do. There is one Grade 3+(?) rapid about two-thirds of the way down which I cleared a portage around on the right bank. It is a long bumpy chute in a gorge section and has a rock in the middle which might turn one out with disastrous consequences. I will examine it more carefully on a future expedition. It would make an exhilarating rapid if it can be made safer. Surprisingly the trip took 4 ¾ hours. I also accidentally left my lifejacket in the car, so Della was doubly worried when I had predicted approx two hours! There are some excellent camps along the way on each bank, most with car access. There is an intermediate access about half way down off Rowleys Ridge Rd which would allow the trip to be broken in two (must investigate this). The put in and take out points would be accessible to a Subaru (or similar) though snow chains might be a good idea in Casuarina Track if it is at all wet as there is a steepish section at the end. The Tanjil River at Tanjil Junction Gauge (http://www.bom.gov.au/cgi-bin/wrap_fwo.pl?IDV60154.html) read .45 visually and on the website so I would suggest this be used as a guide to the canoeable height. Car shuttle takes about a quarter of an hour (each way). The bridge/river height gauge is approx one hour from Churchill. It is a BEAUTIFUL little river travelling through a majestic serene forest replete with birdlife. There are innumerable trout/spinyback crays, so an overnight trip is recommended.

20/11/2013: Have been canoeing the Macalister River for over twenty years – and there have always been fish eagles like this guy. Magnificent creature, feasting on the many introduced carp, redfin and trout to be found in the river – and without which he (and his mate – off somewhere nesting I suspect) would not be there.

20/11/2013: Spent yesterday (5 ½ hours) white water canoeing on the Macalister River in our new ‘Old Town Pack Angler’ canoes which worked wonderfully. What was not so wonderful was that our JR, Tiny fell out of Della’s canoe unnoticed on an entertaining 1 metre drop. When we stopped a couple of km further on to portage a dangerous Grade 3 rapid we noticed she was missing and had to paddle/hike back to look for her. After 2 hours and 1km vertically up and down we finally found her and could resume our journey. Understandably this morning we are all quite tired. There is a new river height gauge at Licola. Yesterday it was 1.73 which made for quite good conditions (probably about .85 -.9 on the old gauge. I would say the river is canoeable from about 1.68 to 1.8 after which it would become much more entertaining. Warning: There are a number of trees stuck in rapids, particularly the Grade 3 rapid just below the Burgoyne’s Track crossing which definitely need portaging (on the right).

20/11/2013: Gauge height had dropped to 1.71 this morning so likely was more like 1.72 yesterday, excellent conditions. I figure it to be canoeable at approx 2" less than that (though much canoe bottom

scraping) so from @1.67

07/01/2015: Macalister again: When the kids were VERY little on a hot day we used to cool off by spending the afternoon canoeing/swimming from Cheynes Bridge down to 20 Acre Creek (@ 1.5 hours paddling which we stretched to 4-5!) Even at the current seriously low water levels this stretch should still be OK so long as you don’t mind dragging the boats here and there, or a little bottom scraping. There are only pebble races in this stretch, and one small rocky ‘drop’ which you can see from the road on your way up. We used to call this spot ‘The Willows’ and used to lunch in the cool beneath them, but our emerald brethren have spoken – and removed them, for our good no doubt! The great thing about this stretch of river is that you only need one car. Drop the kids, boats and wife/husband at the bridge, drive back to 20 Acre Creek, (taking ONE kid with you for a sympathy vote) stick out the thumb and five minutes later someone will have you back at the bridge. This way, when you have finished the trip you simply (re) load the boats and go home! Our kids seemed to always want to eat roast quail at the Wan Loy restaurant in Traralgon on the way home (which made the trip expensive)! YOU may have better alternatives! Another trip we used to do then was on the Tarwin River from the Buffalo Rd to Tarwin Lower boat ramp. You needed two cars for that, but as we lived @ 1 Ellen Grove Tarwin Lower then, this was no problem!

06/01/2015: Canoeing: Where DID all our water GO? When the kids were young we used to be able to canoe the Macalister or Wonnangatta pretty much all summer. We used to love the trip from Basin Flat to Cheyne’s Bridge on the Macalister, and Kingwell Bridge to Scorpion Creek on the Wonnangatta. The last (ten!) years there hasn’t been enough water. Today for example, the Macalister has 1.54 @ Licola (min 1.63); the Wonnangatta 1.65 @ Waterford (min 1.8); the Thomson has .25 @ Coopers Creek (.3 is best, but I have canoed it down to .19!)…Trouble is, Della won’t ‘do’ the Gorge any more because of her eyesight – and that she always falls out (WARNING: last time I canoed it there was a dangerous log-jam near the end of the Gorge: it WOULD kill you in high water eg above .5 @ Coopers if you were unable to portage!). I WILL cut a walking track from the Mitchell Creek Track so those with packrafts (us!) can have a day trip from below the Gorge and above the Triple Stager (walk around on true right bank – walk around Boulder rapid on true left bank; take CARE to be lined up for the Chute). I did clear (and create a walking track to the river) the T9 (off the Stoney Creek Rd) for single day trips a few years ago but it needs more work now (and as it is ABOVE the Gorge, this may be someone else’s job!) So that’s why I am looking to making some canoeing opportunities on the Tyers (below Moondarra ‘environmental flows’ keep it canoeable though some bottom scraping – and it WILL need reclearing) and on the upper Latrobe: I’ll keep you posted on that! River heights here: http://www.bom.gov.au/cgi-bin/wrap_fwo.pl?IDV60154.html

08/01/2015: Yesterday in the heat we took a break to explore the Upper Latrobe again during the afternoon – it’s THAT close! There is a wonderful campsite down a ferny 4WD track off McKenzies Rd near Noojee (shown). There is plenty of water for canoeing and you can put in under the bridge downstream of Noojee. The river becomes bigger still just around the corner after the Toorongo joins it. (Remember, these photos were taken when the Macalister and Wonnangatta were uncanoeable due to low water levels.) We also checked out the Tanjil River in Costins Rd near Fumina South. It is clearly canoeable from there down to Blue Rock. I know both rivers will have many portages over logs, but if more people canoed them these logs would slowly disappear. They both have lots of beautiful campsites and innumerable trout and crays. Enjoy!

Ferny Track near the end of McKenzies Rd Near Noojee — with Della Jones.

Fantail: Ferny Track near the end of McKenzies Rd Near Noojee — with Della Jones.

Under the Noojee Bridge — with Della Jones.

Tanjil River, Costins Rd near Fumina South looking upstream. — with Della Jones.

Tanjil River, Costins Rd near Fumina South looking downstream. — with Della Jones.

29/12/2014: I was talking to a chap yesterday about undertaking a thousand mile canoe trip down the Kazan River in the Canadian Arctic, an area inhabited only by moose, wolves, caribou, bears, musk oxen salmon etc - and he opined I was too old! Oh dear! But surely, if Ray Jardine can do it (and much more) I can, so long as my back comes good: http://www.rayjardine.com/adventures/2001-Kazan-River/index.htm

22/01/2015: Another Innings: Strange how people harbour THIS odd delusion. You’ve heard the excuses: ‘I’m too old/fat/unfit, don’t have a decent pair of boots, 4WD, time, wife/husband might not like it…have to mow the lawn, feed the cat, put the garbage out, etc, bloody etc…so I can’t POSSIBLY join you today on yet another madcap canoeing, hunting, hiking etc adventure – as if they were going to have another innings where all these things were possible! Just the other day a guy said to me, ‘You can’t possibly canoe a THOUSAND KM on the Kazan River in the Canadian Arctic, not at YOUR age’! Just have to wait around for the Resurrection I guess – or…JUST GET OUT AN DO IT!

01/01/2015: STRANGE how folks feel compelled to ‘follow the leader’…most travel all the way to the Murray for house boating ‘adventures’ when here in Gippsland we have all the thousands of kilometres of wonderful inter-connected Gippsland’s lakes and hundreds of kilometres also of navigable rivers in a much more pleasant climate…

05/01/2015: CANOEING: There are some MAJOR river trips which can be had wholly in Gippsland. For instance…Someday it is my intention to clear the Tyers River from Christmas Creek down to Wirilda Park (near the junction with the Latrobe). In the past I cleared some sections of this, (eg from Growlers down to Western Tyers (3-4 hours) and from the end of the W3 track (off the Tyers-Walhalla Rd) to Wirilda (3-4 hours). I figure a week’s lovely canoeing could be had along the quite pristine Tyers. There are many long trips which can already be undertaken. (Of course, they CAN be broken up into shorter trips). For example, the Wonnangatta-Mitchell is canoeable from the Humffray River confluence (at the bottom of the Wombat Spur) all the way to Lake King (12-13 days). I particularly like the couple of days coming down to Eaglevale through serene, remote forested country. The Macalister can be canoed (easily) from the Glencairn Bridge (on the Barkly off the Jamieson Rd above Licola – GREAT camping spot!). It takes @ 3 days to reach Lake Glenmaggie, from where you can continue on for a few days to Sale, if you wish. The Snowy is a huge trip: 5-7 days from Delegate to McKillops Bridge; a further 8 ½ to Marlo = @ 15 days! I have already mentioned in a previous post @ 10 days on the Latrobe from Noojee to Batts Landing on Lake Wellington. Canoeing is such a CHEAP recreation. A quite serviceable polyethylene canoe can be bought from @ $500. For many years we worked hard at wearing out a pair of Nylex Pioneers (@35kg each) which in our old age we have now replaced with a pair of Old Town Pack Angler 12’ Canadians @13kg each as we are getting too lazy (?) to carry the old ones!

20/1/2013: I love Gippsland's rivers. There are so many where a week or more's placid canoeing can be had. I think it would be a good idea to replace the Bible and the Koran in church and mosque with the book, 'Canoeing the Rivers & Lakes of Victoria' by Chris & Yvonne McLaughlin! It is three weeks (by my reckoning) on the Wonnangatta-Mitchell from the Humphray River confluence to Lake King. A similar voyage can be had on the Snowy. Slightly shorter journeys on the Thomson, Macalister, Tambo, Mitta Mitta & etc. I have some 'secret' river trips which are not in the book (though these MAY yet be declared 'heretical'): for example, a week can be had on the 'uncanoeable' Tyers River (from Growler's Creek to the Morwell River confluence). It contains probably the scariest bit of whitewater (a waterfall and chute) I have ever survived (many times) just below the start of the old tramline. The faint hearted CAN portage it (That's me these days!). I reckon the Latrobe could be canoed from much closer to Noojee but I haven't yet done so. A pleasant day can even be had coming down the Tarwin from the Sth Gippsland Hwy near Meaniyan and finishing at the Tarwin Lower pub - what better way to top off a lovely day? No need for self-chilling beer at the end of the trip anyway!

22/1/2013: ALPACKA: I was going to treat myself to a new canoe to celebrate my successful back operation this Saturday (you have to be optimistic) and so was going to purchase an Alpacka raft (https://www.alpackaraft.com/index.cfm/store.catalog?CategoryID=53&ProductID=66) with which I plan to tackle the Snowy as soon as I am recovered - probably alone, as Della's eyesight won't let her do serious whitewater any more, and you can just spend your life waiting around until your friends are free to join you!. Checking out the website I noticed they have THIS amazing innovation (https://www.alpackaraft.com/index.cfm/store.catalog?categoryID=65) which allows you to put all your gear INSIDE the inflated tubes! What an amazing idea. Sheri Tingey is a genius!

1/12/11: Try packrafting on the cheap. Instead of $800 try buying eg an Intex from Clark Rubber for $40. You reinforce the floor/outside tubes with a poly tarp. These can be taped with Polyethylene tape used for greenhouses or Norton Gaffer may work or tied in place with tarp holders. The oars which come with it can be made into a double paddle whose length can be increased by cutting a thread on one end with a metal pipe fitting. We have tried this idea out on Grade 3 water – and it works!

14/03/2015: This is COOL: Four-Hour Grip Clip Kayak! You can build a kayak of green willow shoots, plus a blue tarp in just four hours! http://www.shelter-systems.com/kayak.html

Best plastic canoe: Old Town Pack Angler 12’ & approx 13kg! That’s what Della & I are paddling in all the photos: http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/canoes/sporting/pack_angler/

SOME RECENT TRIPS:

06/10/2014: There are many wonderful hiking circuits to be ‘found’ in the Victorian mountains. Just because the route is not marked on any map or DSE brochure ought not deter you. Some are quite long and would take a fortnight or so to complete. Others are shorter. The Wonnangatta, Dry Creek, Caledonia, Wellington, Moroka form such loop. The loop can be shortened (or indeed lengthened). I am thinking to head up the ridge from Mt Darling Creek to Mt Darling Saddle (to Dimmicks). This is in the ‘Mt Darling-Snowy Bluff Wilderness’. A clear route there will create a variety of one week loops for me. It is SO much easier to find your way UP a ridge than down! It will also give me an escape route when the Wonnangatta-Moroka floods and strands me upstream for ages (as happened to me a couple of years back). There are MANY great walks already. The Upper Yarra Trail heads from Warburton to Walhalla across the Baw Baw Plateau, for example (a great warm weather walk). You can even walk all the way from Warburton to Canberra, ‘The Australian Alps walking Track which takes 50-70 days! Worth putting on your ‘Bucket List.’ You can see the maps for this here: http://theaustralianalps.wordpress.com/experience/aawt/maps/ Track Instructions here: http://www.finnsheep.com/Track%20Instructions.htm More information here: http://www.finnsheep.com/THE%20UPPER%20YARRA%20WALKING%20TRACK.htm

alps-map-guide

27/12/2016: The Diamond Desert: Everest Base Camp Trek # 8: Once you reach Pangboche you are definitely out of the trees and the vista changes utterly. The absence of softening vegetation makes the panorama seem larger and harsher – and of course the colours change. You start to see lots more snow and ice, as well as vast shiny grey scree slopes as the Himalayas catapult downwards under their own steepness. In places huge mountainsides have simply cleaved and fallen off, sometimes damming vast ice rivers and forming beautiful turqoise lakes.

Even along the river it is barren lands.

View from Nangartschang Hill of one such cataclysmic lake.

About half way looking back towards Pangboche.

About half way looking towards Dingboche – could be out of a ‘spaghetti western’!

It is not until you see this that you are aware that the mountains are a vast crystalline growth on a truly gigantic scale. Of course you knew this intellectually all along: it is what the clash of continental plates and the uplift of crustal magma which creates them is all about, but not until you see the monstrous facets of stone mountains fissuring and fracturing away onto valley floors thousands of feet below are you truly aware that this is the same process yous see in your salt shaker or on your battery terminals at home but on a garagantuan scale.

Tsola River: Turnoff to Pheriche.

Dingboche: Nangachang Hill left

In Dingboche you are right below the Western slopes of Ama Dablam where there were apparently intrepid souls making their best efforts to commit suicide trying to reach the top. It looked impossible to me! Maybe the other side. It is the most photogenic of mountains. Some such suicide victim was clearly being rescued by this chopper in the morning. I did not notice when I snapped the scene the really super, supermoon hovering in the sky above it – yet that was weeks before the ‘official supermoon’! They do things differently in Nepal!

To me Ama Dablam is forbidding.

We had an acclimatisation day in Dingboche 4410 metres during which we climbed Nangartschang Hill just behind the French bakery where we were staying to approx 5200 metres. BTW the bakery also have a small Pharmacy which can be very handy if you are beginning to feel some symptoms of altitude sickness &/or Khumbu cough (they stock both Diamox and antibiotics, for example – also throat lozenges which you will also probably need by now!) If you take ½ a Diamox twice per day this will help prevent the symptoms of altitude sickness, which if you begin to suffer from, you must immediately descend – as it can be fatal! You should have begun this prevention strategy before you left Kathmandu (or Jiri).

View od Dingboche from Nangartschang Hill: all the tiny brave potato fields.

Literally hundreds of folk were attempting the ascent of Nangartschang Hill as I set out after breakfast (Steve had preceded me – the young are always rushing ahead or lagging behind – why is it so?) Most turned back before the summit. When I arrived there I had only three others for company, including Steve. It was definitely a photo opportunity, but I must say I prefer greenery!

The Ultralight Hiker on top of Nangartscang Hill @ 5200 metres.

My head cold and sore throat became worse over the next 24 hours. I also felt very tired after the descent so reasoned that the planned foray to Chukkung Ri and the Kongma La Pass were not for me. I decided I would go on to Luboche and meet up with Steve at Gorek Shep. He would take my sat phone and I would take the sat messenger. I offered him the Escape Bivi but he still would not take it. The young. How they ever get to be old is a mystery – well, many of them don’t!

We parted just after breakfast and I headed off towards Luboche. However, I had to climb a couple of hundred metres over the hill I had climbed to the top of the day before with relative ease and after a while I could tell I was not going to make it. I could not tell whether it was altitude sickness or an onset of pneumonia at that stage, but I needed to get downhill immediately whichever it was and get well, so I headed off back towards Namche instead. I had a terrible two day walk there and on to Lukla as I decribed elsewhere, then a long, tortuous month recovering from the pneumonia which also struck young Steve down a couple of days later. I will let him carry on with his story of venturing on to Everest Base Camp:

Views (above and below) up the valley from Nangartschang Hill towards Chukkung.

‘I left Dingboche early (after saying goodbye to Steve J) and didn’t leave Chukkung until just before noon. I made it to the false summit of Chukkung Ri at 2 pm at 5,404 meters (17,725 feet). My lungs were feeling surprisingly strong. The views were unbelievable. You could even see the iconic Pumori in the distance to the north.

Steve H atop Chukkung Ri

And a friend!

When I realized that the actual summit was further up, I pushed on, but it was already quite late. The route was rather difficult as I was climbing across loose rock on a ledge that dropped several hundred meters. Very close to the top, I even became bluffed out and had to turn back around to find the correct route marked by small cairns. I reached the summit at 4 pm, which is rather late for Himalayan standards, as I still had a very long descent.

From the summit, I could see that clouds were rolling into the valley and began whipping up and over the saddle, from which I would descend. So, I did not stay long. The descent took forever. It was late in the evening and the sun began to set, casting its beautiful golden light on the high peaks to the east. I took a lot of pictures of this evening magic, which is why I didn’t arrive back in Chukkung until a long while past darkness.

I’ve done some crazy hikes before, but the next day was definitely the hardest hiking day of my life. It’s one thing to hike above 18,000 feet and another thing to do it with a 30 lb backpack. I’ve now had two consecutive days above 18k feet – higher than the altitude of Everest Base Camp.

It was freezing this morning when we left Chukkung and we had a few initial problems crossing the icy, glacial-fed stream, as the ‘local’ advice was completely inaccurate. We eventually headed upstream and found a makeshift bridge to cross.

Once on the true right, we traversed the Nuptse Glacier and picked up the unmarked Kongma La Pass trail…Hiking further, a beautiful bowl opened up with frozen waterfalls and glacial peaks looming high as a backdrop. Even a massive condor or eagle with a wingspan of some six feet soared above us.

Once we turned the corner, it became clear that we had to climb straight up. With my pack fully loaded, I could only manage climbing five meters at a time before I had to catch my breath. The secret is to keep your heart beat as low as possible and just move slowly in a zombie-like fashion with one foot in front of the other…

Upon reaching a plateau, I passed these beautiful frozen lakes before climbing again to the main plateau en route to the pass. On the main plateau, I was starting to feel a bit sick. Not overly nauseous, but just enough to make me unsteady. The weight of my backpack was really holding me back, but I knew that I had to push on.

Walking further on the plateau, I could see the pass and the prayer flags in the distance. All of a sudden, a beautiful turquoise lake opened up out of nowhere, so I took the opportunity to rest and to munch on two Snickers bars.

Eventually, I jumped back on the path again and began the final ascent to the pass. It was very steep with a huge drop down to the lake. There was so much sediment on the ground that it was very difficult to have much traction. A hiker from New Zealand coming down slipped and almost went over the edge. Finally, I made it to the pass at 5,535 meters (18,159 feet) feeling absolutely shattered. My body was completely spent. Fortunately, the views were just incredible.

On the back side, the route descended through huge boulders before giving way to loose scree. It was a tough descent after already reaching exhaustion at the pass. After descending for well over an hour, I reached the bottom of the valley. The moraine from the Khumbu Glacier was just massive. Traversing it for roughly 1.5 km was slow going, as the rocks were loose and the route was not well defined. I was utterly exhausted, but had to push beyond my limits again in order to concentrate and avert injury.

Finally, I reached the other side. Turning around, I stood in awe at what I had just descended and traversed. The size of the Khumbu Glacier was just unreal. I then proceeded to descend into the village of Lobuche, where I stumbled around looking for a room. Eventually I found a dark and dingy tea house where I could rest my head. I changed my clothing and immediately passed out.

Next day I made it to Everest Base Camp (and also climbed Kala Pattar). Normally, people hike from Lobuche and do this itinerary in 2-3 days. I’m feeling pretty good. It is the third day in a row above 18,000 feet. Everything is literally freezing up here so I cannot write much of a message. For now, here are some pictures. Everest is absolutely beautiful…

Just a bit of an additional update. Yesterday was an amazing, but it is very, very cold to sleep up here at 17,000 feet. It was less than 5 degree F weather overnight here in Gorakshep. My Nalgene froze within 15 minutes. I could barely sleep due to the extreme cold and could definitely feel the altitude after such a long day. Throughout the night, you could hear huge chunks of glaciers careening off the mountains, creating a rumble that also keeps you awake…

Khumbu Glacier.

I can’t believe just how many people are doing the EBC trek, which is precisely why I elected to do the much less trodden and much more challenging Three Passes Trek. From Lobuche to Gorakshep, I was literally running past groups just so that I could reserve a room in Gorakshep. Almost everything was booked out, but fortunately, the Snow Land lodge had one more room available…

Upon reaching Everest Base Camp…You could only see a small section of Everest, but the real view was of Nuptse, the Khumbu Glacier and the infamous Khumbu Icefall. It was crazy to think that I was only one kilometer from Tibet…

Once we headed back to Gorakshep, I grabbed a plate of spaghetti and then began climbing Kala Pattar…I kept pushing on to 5,465 meters. The sun was beginning to set, so I stopped and began to watch one of the most amazing sunsets of my life. The view of Everest was clear as crystal, with Chomolungma nestled between Nuptse and another unnamed peak…How could you not be spiritual in that moment. It really was an incredible sight.

Even long after the sun had gone over the horizon and was no longer shining brilliant gold on these majestic peaks, these mountains remained as white as ever. The glow of orange and red and pink behind these mountains was also stunning…I then descended for the next 45 minutes using the moon glow to find my way back down. It was freezing. Every other person had his/her headlamp out, but I’ve done enough night hiking in my life to see and know the path…

Today, I am hiking all the way to Dzongla, which is supposed to be the most beautiful mountain town in Sagarmatha. I’m still batting a lump in my throat (due to a combination of cold and exhaustion), so I may spend an additional night there in order to recharge my batteries for the very challenging Cho La Pass…

So, I’ve arrived in Dzongla with a rather nasty throat cold. While hiking, the wind has, at times, been ferocious and, while sleeping, the air temperature has been averaging 5-10 degrees F. In the morning, I always find my window frozen with ice crystals due to the moisture coming from my exhalation. It is so cold in the lodges that the bathrooms are always frozen over with urine and faeces, presenting a not-so-appetizing trip to the loo. How people are able to avoid water-borne illnesses is beyond me. Mix in the Khumbu dust or cow dung smoke that you are constantly breathing in, and you have the perfect recipe to get sick. Tea houses are generally filled with a cacophony of coughs, of which I am now a contributor…

Walking from Gorakshep to Lobuche, I was really moving quickly. Unfortunately, due to my cold, the second portion of the hike to Dzongla really wore me down. I was very, very tired and struggled to put one foot in front of the other…my throat is completely swollen, which restricts my breathing – not a great attribute to have at 16,000 feet. My nose has constantly been running and it is very apparent that I must take a ‘zero’ day tomorrow so that I can rest. I need to be very fit to make it up and over Cho La Pass, so I’ll have to make a decision on my fitness tomorrow night.

My eyes keep crying…my throat still hurts, and I have fluid constantly dripping from my nose. I’ve already gone through two rolls of toilet paper and that’s just from blowing my nose Last night, my throat and lungs were so constricted that I could barely breathe in the thin air. Hopefully, tonight will be more bearable…

For all of these reasons, I have decided to throw in the towel and descend to Namche tomorrow.’

24/12/2016: Yarra Falls 3:

There are some amazing wilderness areas in Victoria. Some maybe only a half dozen living eyes have seen. Such as this. People have been forbidden to venture here since c1955. This is the junction of Falls Creek and the Yarra River forwarded to me by an anonymous reader. Falls Creek is seen entering from the left.

S/he writes: 'It is about 11,000 steps in from the main road to here, some very short ones as the terrain is quite steep in places, particularly the last few hundred metres. There is also some horizontal scrub to negotiate, very tricky unless you are shown the way, or keep a careful look out. On the way in you walk North across the head of a gully then follow the ridge (just north of centre) sloping roughly NE for a couple of kilometers until you reach the top of the first waterfall, one of six falling a total of over 250 metres, the highest in Victoria. There is a very small spot you might pitch a tent about fifty metres before the first fall. A hammock or two could be pitched at the falls. There is no water for the next 9,000 steps till you reach the Yarra confluence.

Some beautiful wildflowers on the way.

You cross above the top waterfall, climb diagonally onto the ridge to the West then follow it all the way to the bottom, keeping exactly on the top. After about 2,000 steps there is a view of some of the falls seen poorly through the tall timber. There is a clearish view of probably the second one, whilst others below it, glimpsed only indistinctly give an impression of their immense height. A side track needs to be contoured in from just downhill of this spot to access a better view of these five falls. It used to be possible to climb them on the Eastern (true right) side.

The last couple of hundred metres of the ridge the path leads a little to the left of its centre through some horizontal scrub bringing you out onto the Falls Creek about 100 metres upstream from the confluence. There is a substantial flat area downstream of the creek where several tents could be pitched.

You can camp right on the Yarra here and catch a trout for your breakfast.

The 'Shelter Hut' was on that ridge above the tent. It would have had a superb view.

Trout are plentiful and easy to catch in this section of the infant Yarra. The old Shelter House used to lie just up the ridge from the river flat on the downstream side of the creek. There are a number of flattish areas where it might have been, but no sign of the concrete chimney, so further investigation is needed. The vegetation here is quite thick.

It is probably not too difficult to push your way from this campsite through the vegetation up to the base of the Main Falls which lie at least a kilometre below the five falls. You would need the best part of a day to do just that and return. I suspect.

Possibly site of 'Shelter Hut'.

It will take you a day to walk in to the confluence and a day to walk out. Or you can walk in to the top of the first falls and out again in a day. Especially along the ridge the forest litter is probably nearly a foot deep. Underlying it there are many stones. Your feet are constantly rolling on the deep litter, and as you crash through it you are often pitched in unexpected directions by the stones etc. You will need hiking poles to minimise falls but they are quite awkward to use in the densely vegetated sections.' It would be useful if you brought a machete (such as this: https://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-worlds-greatest-machete/) and some pink fluoro tape to improve the path for others.'

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/yarra-falls-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/yarra-falls-3/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-early-visits-to-yarra-falls/

http://archive.bigben.id.au/victoria/melb/yarra_falls.html

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/yarra-falls-1928/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-historic-photos/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/1925-sketch-map-of-yarra-falls/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-heres-a-little-treasure/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-some-history/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track/

Video of Main Falls (2007): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUZwDjiO-sk

06/12/2016: A Birthday Treat: Mirboo North Railtrail: As one of us was a year older, we took the day off for a leisurely stroll on this lovely nearby walking/riding track which stretches between the delightful Gippsland towns of Boolarra and Mirboo North.

You can park your car at the beginning of the trail between the Brewery and the Recreation Reserve in Mirboo North or at Railway Park, Boolarra opposite the Post Office and General Store. Beginning in Boolarra in the morning (after a coffee) means you can stop for lunch in Mirboo North, then walk back downhill refreshed. There are many food establishments in the main street; the hotel also has excellent counter meals. You can finish the day with a meal at one of several venues in Boolarra or at the excellent nearby Yinnar Community hotel – the only community owned hotel in Victoria!

Plenty of tucker:

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There are many other interesting shops in Mirboo North including this one, The Wren’s Nest: dscn3396

We are off!

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You must:

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Plenty of park benches and seats along the way for your dogs:

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Lots of lovely wildflowers;

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And other interesting things. Amazing what you could make out of bricks. Note the lovely fresh water approx 2 km from Mirboo North

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Interesting (possibly luminous - some are) bracket fungi: dscn3422

More wildflowers:

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More interesting brickwork. Tiny enjoying herself:

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Della and Spot exploring an underground tunnel:

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Tea trees can put on a fine display:

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Spot admired these lovely blue lilies:

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A lovely trail:

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This is the deadliest plant in Australia: the Dogwood. So many people are allergic to these blooms. We used to call them 'wild sago' in NSW when I was a boy:

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You can rest a minute at lots of pleasant spots along the way. Spot doesn't want to: dscn3459

There are two interesting bridges like this across clear flowing streams where you could camp:

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A lovely campsite:

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It was a warm day. The dogs became thirsty:

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Some fine timber;

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An excellent stand:

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More interesting brickwork:

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Coming in to Boolarra (about 1 1/2 km out):

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You start and end each of the trail with a beautiful park: Railway Park in Boolarra. And Baromi park in Mirboo North. Both are delightful spots to stop, rest and refresh. Both have nearby food establishments: the Bollarra General Store at one end and quite a number in Mirboo North including this wonderful bakery and this café to name just two.

Along the way every 3-4 km you can find good sources of fresh water and pleasant campsites off the track a bit. Of course in Australia (as elsewhere) all that is not compulsory is verboten; you should naturally ignore this. Maybe you are considering adding this lovely trail to perhaps a walking tour of South Gippsland including Mt Worth State park, the Grand Ridge Road (to Mirboo North), the Mirboo North Rail trail, The River Road Boolarra, maybe parts of the Grand Strzelecki Track, Tarra-Bulga National Parks, Great Southern Trail and Tarra Trail, Bass Coast Rail Trail, Old Port Trail, Wilsons Prom, http://www.visitvictoria.com/Regions/Gippsland/Things-to-do/Outdoor-activities/Walking-and-hiking/South-Gippsland , & etc...

The trail is about 13km. It takes approx 2 ½-31/2 hours on foot, or as I said at the beginning you can make a delightful day of it.

PS; The photos show the trail beginning at Mirboo North and ending in Boolarra.

03/12/2016: That Endless Skyway: Everest Base Camp Trek #7:

We had a programmed ‘acclimatisation day’ at Namche and another at Dingboche. Tully had decided we would use these days to climb up to the next 500 metre ‘step’ and then descend again to sleep. This proved to be a good preventative for altitude sickness as was taking half a Diamox twice a day starting on the morning you are to leave Kathmandu. An acclimatisation day spent wandering the hills around Lukla is also a good idea.

Some views of the Namche ‘Skyway’:

Leaving Namche

Walking ‘across the top’ to the ‘Everest View’ Hotel:

A number of trekkers told me that the track up from Jiri to Lukla is the best and most beautiful part of the trail and that there are very few people on it. What a bonus! I suspect this is true. If I had my time again I would probably have walked from Jiri and flown out from Lukla, but after fighting with this terrible lung infection for a month now I doubt I will be eager to retrace my footsteps in Nepal!

Gazing up the valley towards Everest (right of centre).

Everest View.

Thus we ascended from Namche to the eponymous ‘Everest View’ Hotel, (a facsimile of Douglas Adams’ ‘The Hotel at the End of the Universe’ – and peopled identically!), then circled back through the prosperous potato towns of Khumjung and Kunde. ‘Green Towns’ a Sherpa told me, presumably because of the ‘Colorbond’ rooves. In Khumjung we sampled our first ‘Garlic Soup’ and found it good!

Another view ‘across the top’ to the ‘Everest View’ Hotel.

View up the valley from the ‘Everest View’ Hotel. Tengboche is atop that green hill centre.

Khumjung – a ‘Green Town’.

Interesting stone building outside the ‘Hilary School. Netball seems enormously popular.

The practice of burning (yak) dung must deplete the nutrients of their fields.

The eponymous ‘garlic Soup’, Khumjung version. Cafe opposite the ‘Hilary School’.

Someone (I will not mention who!) took a wrong turn at Syanboche on the descent (the turn-off being temporarily obscured by a camel, fit of coughing, lapse of intelligence, or etc) and ended up nearly all the way to Thame before he found a cattle pad or game trail which would allow him to descend into Namche just on dusk. A good thing he has well-honed wilderness skills!

Coming down from Kunde there was some attractive vegetation.

Even some pretty flowers.

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Porters have to bear some pretty primitive accommodation – this cave on the road from Thame to Namche.

A guide or porter might help prevent such mishaps, but I encountered many such with zero English language skills. Too often they rushed ahead of their ‘guests’ forcing the pace dangerously in the low oxygen environment. In my experience they were almost universally completely unable to understand or answer any question in English, though I asked many.

For example, I was curious (at the higher altitudes) to learn when the Sherpa first ventured there – as there were no abandoned ruins at higher points which might indicate they had colonised them during the medieval warm period. None knew – or understood! Those who forget their past are destined to repeat it! The answer is clearly that they have only inhabited these regions relatively recently- ie the last 500 years or so

On my ‘trail of tears’ pneumonic return journey I staggered along with a middle aged Norwegian nurse (Lise) for two days. She had been abandoned by her entire party, including her personal guide and two porters. She was nearly as sick as I (or sicker) and also had limited English skills, but we were thankfully able to help each other, despite her being an avowed feminist (to which I replied, ‘How sad’) and my being, as I’m sure you know, a shocking misogynist who would never help a woman!

However I grew up with the tradition of the ‘Birkenhead’ to inspire me. There was so much that was great about the old Empire. Nepal (and Tibet) must sorely regret they rejected it when they once had the opportunity to welcome its blessings with open arms!

If you do not have years of wilderness experience such as I do, you might be better to venture out with a group, guides, porters etc. I prefer the dignity of carrying all my own gear – and being self-sufficient no matter what happens to me. So, for example, I carried my Delorme Inreach SE PLB http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-poor-mans-satellite-phone/ whilst Tully carried my Sat Phone – in case of real emergencies, and if we were separated. Sound practice – as it turned out! I had my Escape Bivy and My Thermorest Neoair Women’s mat, my re-engineered sleeping bag (good to -30C http://www.theultralighthiker.com/adding-down-to-a-sleeping-bag/), and lots of warm Montbell clothes (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/?s=montbell in case I had accidentally to spend a night stuck high in the snowy passes.

I even had with me my trusty Vango 450 ml cup, a titanium windscreen and an 11 gram Esbit stove in case I wanted a hot cup of Mocca on some icy mountaintop! I also had a second (and third) tranche of antibiotics in case the first (Cipro) did no good – it got me back! The second and third are yet doing battle with this dreadful lurgi. I still have no idea whether I will survive it. Some days it has the upper hand, other days I forge ahead of it. Five crises so far! Life is ever a race to the grave which you one day lose.

I am a pessimist by preparation, not by nature. I know that the larger parties were not nearly so well prepared, which would mean only that people would die en masse (as they did on the Annapurna circuit a couple of years back http://www.theultralighthiker.com/survival-shelter/) rather than alone – or not at all.

It is akin to the spurious ’safety’ such folks feel in crowds – vowing eg that cities are safer than the wilderness, imagining ‘Wolf Creek/Deliverance’ dangers lurking behind every rock, whilst ignoring the nuclear missiles aimed squarely at their cherished megapolises! Strangely though, such folks had porters to carry their gear, nonetheless they all had day packs clearly weighing more than my pack – which contained all my gear. Their sheer superfluity overwhelms my sense of wonder at their vapidity

I was appalled at how some (foreigners) treated their ‘servants’. Often I witnessed folks making what I (having grown up in an egalitarian culture) considered outrageous demands of them. For example, one person waited until his guide sat down to his own meal before demanding a bottle of water (which was in his own reach in his pack pocket). The Sherpa patiently rose and fetched it for him. When he was seated once more, his ‘master’ then demanded that he open it! The Sherpa once more patiently rose and did so. I fear one day the Sherpas may rise against such treatment in greater earnest; some of them at least are Ghurkas, remember. They appear to be the most pleasant and friendly people imaginable though.

We stayed in Namche for three days altogether, two on the way up; one on the way back. We found the Shangri La Lodge (just off to the East of the main street a block above the pharmacies) quite pleasant and the food good. A lot of local people ate there – which is no doubt a good sign!

The rooms were clean and comfy, a toilet close by – and a welcome hot shower downstairs.

Warm dining room.

This business in Namche (there are dozens of shops) was really good at fixing phones/photographic equipment etc, else I would not have been able to contact my wife (to arrange my rescue for example!).

After Namche you follow the river high on its true right bank the first few hours past a monument to Tensing, one of the first two men on top of Everest – at least if Mallory and Irvine’s camera never emerges from the ice atop the mountain. (Interestingly the Sherpas had not yet been enlisted into mountain climbing in the 1920s when Mallory perhaps stood on Everest).

Looking back down the valley towards Namche hidden behind Tensing’s chorten behind the hill (right)

Tensing’s chorten.

View up the river from Tensing’s chorten. Tully posing.

Crowds of folk flowing towards Everest.

View up the river. Tengboche is atop the green ‘hill’ centre.

The track goes along on the level for quite a distance, this section well maintained by the collections of an old man who has climbed Everest five times. You descend 300 metres to yet another river crossing sheltering a pleasant little town complete with its ubiquitous military outpost. (You soon get used to the level of fascism in Nepal – no doubt so long as you are not a member of the Royal Family or such it should cause no disquiet!) We enjoyed a pleasant lunch at a café just before the bridge.

Some lovely villages along the way. Each has its tea house/s and gift shops.

Lunch at the bridge.

As you can see i am having the ‘Vegetable fried Potatoes’ We stuck to vegetarian food after Pangboche – no fresh meat.

There follows a long (but pleasant) climb up a beautifully wooded hill complete with delightful skyline views to the monastic town of Tengboche – where you used to be able to fondle a Yeti’s skull – till someone stole it! Tengboche has a tasty bakery where you can enjoy a delightful lunch complete with views of frozen waterfalls on the surrounding hills & etc. We had afternoon teas here: biscuits, doughnuts, buttered sweet rolls, etc and of course the ubiquitous lemon tea.

View to the east as you climb the Tengboche hill.

You can ogle frozen waterfalls as you sip your latte and devour your croissants – who could ask for more?

Main Street Tengboche.

Bakery Tengboche.

This religious gibberish is ubiquitous in Nepal: the Tengboche Monastery.

After Tengboche there follows another reasonable descent again through some quite pretty forest to Duboche (the bridge across the river there marks the end of the forest). In Duboche is a pretty tea-house named ‘Rivendell’ framed by a beautiful view – somewhat spoiled by the 3 metre high barbed wire fence around it. Just a little repellent if it expects numerous customers – or perhaps you ought not want to leave?

Descending through rhododendron forests.

A forbidding ‘Rivendell’.

This bridge was well broken.

And its replacement somewhat rickety.

View upriver from the bridge.

After Duboche the bridge had been washed out and an interesting temporary bridge crafted to replace it. Because there is a detour after the bridge you might lose your way and head back downstream to where the old bridge crossed unless you remember that Pangboche is upstream on the true right bank, so that all you need to do is scramble up the yak tracks to the old path to continue your journey.

First view of Pangboche- a potato town.

As soon as you cross the river you are in quite a different type of low, straggly vegetation which I at first thought marked the treeline until I spied a seedling pine/cypress just poking above a patch of well-gnawed shrubbery. Clearly the yaks have been very busy on the forests hereabouts; maybe also the banished goats.

An easy climb (and descent) brings you to the potato town of Pangboche where we spent the night (on a guide’s recommendation) at the Mountain Peace Lodge which actually charged nothing for accommodation (the usual price is $US1-2 per night so long as you eat in), and which had an excellent hot shower (which always cost more than the accommodation – $US3-5). The host was a very friendly, entertaining chap with whom we spent many hours yarning. His ‘wealth’ had been founded on his owning an adjoining ¼ hectare potato ‘farm’ We tourists were clearly of immense benefit to him.

That night there was a beautiful sunset (and dawn) somewhat obscured by clouds/mist, though it had Tully scrambling around in the dark and cold trying to get that perfect photograph. The Young! The mountains surrounding the towns of Dingboche and Pangboche are quite awesome.

Quite startling – Everest is up there somewhere!

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/i-followed-my-footsteps/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/i-saw-below-me-that-golden-valley/

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14/11/2016: I Saw Below Me That Golden Valley:

Soon you will see no more playful goats as they are banned from the National Park.

Pretty and well cared for donkeys along the way.

It is a pleasant and easy couple of km descent through a pretty forest from Lukla to the prosperous looking agricultural town of Chheplung (though it is much harder struggling back up the other way on the return journey with a chest full of pneumonia!)

Chheplung is a well laid out and prosperous looking agricultural area.

From there you follow the Dudh Khosi River upstream with only slight rises and falls of the path until you ascend sharply 7-800 metres into Namche Bazar after a walk of approx 8 hours. Most complete this section over two days.

MThere are many small villages.

And places to take a break.

Some more salubrious than others: Of course along the well-travelled section of the EBC most everything is dressed up to its best. In smaller rural villages you often find rougher accommodation.

There are lots of big and little villages to stop along the way to enjoy a cup of coffee (or something stronger), a snack or a meal. We planned to stop at Monjo (because of its altitude rather than its being half way), but we spent a little too long ‘catching up’ before we set off, so that we ended up staying at the Himalayan Guest House (nice), Bengkar instead. Most folk stay at Phakding (quite a big town) which is about half way to Namche, but there is no need; every tiny hamlet has its tea houses for food and accommodation.

Quaint agricultural practices: this hay is being 'raked' with a stick. I saw it cut with a kitchen knife!

Sun drying barley, I guess. Strangely in the tea houses everyone eats Dahl Bat (Rice) even though no rice could grow here.

I found the intercropping interesting; beans and grain grown together.

Everywhere the mountains tower over the valley:

And the river churns in its bed:

All along the route telephone and/or internet reception is mixed/patchy, but usually available – though it may surprise you that there is any at all. Often there is wifi eg in guest houses, etc. Sometimes it is free; at others it might cost eg US$5 for 200 megs. It is lovely though to be able to use ‘Whats App’, ‘Facebook Messenger’ or etc to conduct telephone or video calls with your loved ones on the other side of the world! (I know I did.)

Endless religious gibberish pollutes the scenery.

Everywhere in Nepal (as in many such places) bullshit religious iconography is ubiquitous. Such a country is enormously held back by such religious and (leftist) political primitivism. Of course it does not help you much if your Maoist Government somehow still pathetically claims that the entire royal family just shot itself (perhaps this is what happened to the Romanovs too?) I am minded of a similar bizarre (unsolved murder?) case in Vic where the victim managed to shoot herself twice in the head with a bolt action rifle! Meanwhile they inflict punitive taxes eg on antisocial things like autos (250%!) and stow the purloined cash into their vast bureaucratic coffers to later be used (at personal need) for their own Apparatchik purchases (dachas/limos – surely you know the story by now?)

Of course religion can be beautiful too. I was particularly impressed by these automated 'prayer mills'. This must save some time grovelling in the dust muttering incantations!

A 'Prayer-o-matic'!

Any damned fool (from Cecil Rhodes on, (with his Cape to Cairo Railway) though he was not one – what an amazing man; the only person in history to have not one, but two whole countries named after him!) can see that Nepal must have a modern conduit to the sea, else the efficient transport of goods/services and all the wealth that trade brings will never emerge. The Maoists will not even build roads. These (hiking) tracks we stumble along are funded entirely by the donations of kind passers by.

Freeway construction Nepali style.

An old man whose sign indicated he had summitted Everest five times was collecting for just such track repairs just out of Namche – and the track was being repaired right there with the proceeds. You scarce ever see that sort of thing from any government! Once they get hold of your money, it’s gone!

Meanwhile folk stagger by carrying loads on their backs which small lorries would not be ashamed of. We often saw young teenagers (girls and boys) carrying 15 slabs of canned booze up huge mountains for the later delectation of rich foreignors. PS: Is ‘Everest’ so named because of the likelihood that if you climb it you will ‘ever rest’ there - as some hundreds (starting with Mallory), do?

No 'Worksafe' here.

This poor guy staggered along under the weight of over half a cubic metre of plywood. Some other poor devil had hauled in on their backs the huge steel stoves used to heat the lodges, weights of 150 kg, I’d guess! You just know that in many of the huts you pass by there must be just such dreadfully broken human beings weeping and praying to Buddha, just as other poor beggars call out uselessly to Allah or Christ elsewhere.

Santa Claus has lost his reindeer.

I saw one poor man staggering along under a monstrous load, a huge swelling on the side of his face where a tooth was abscessed or etc. He clutched at it tenderly and shuffled on, tears in his eyes – you know it will be ever so, until his death. Dental problems are yet the world’s single biggest killer. There is not a lot really romantic about living in those mountains even if they might seem pretty to us – which is why the seething millions hanker for the smogs and overcrowding of Kathmandu, etc.

Of course the UN and other such Leftist ‘aid’ organisations hold lots of meetings there to discuss what ‘small is beautiful’ world solutions might help, then find (mysteriously) at meeting’s end that all the funding has been spent on the meetings! The population is left to pull itself up by its own bootstraps - which it will, but much more slowly than it might if it got just a little help up. A road here and there, for example.

Bridge at Phakding. Keep and eye out for the turnoff here on the way back.

There is a very long bridge across the river at Phakding which you would be well served to give the yaks first turn at, and maybe count how many others are aboard before you venture forth your feet. It is not near so high as the highest ‘double bridge’ just as you begin the climb up the mountain towards Namche. ‘Tully’ reckoned it to be 150 metres down to your death on the sharp teeth of the river far below. I did not demur - being too fearful to look down!

Old and new bridge.

Tully surges off the high bridge.

On the slopes climbing up to Namche (and elsewhere) there are some interesting plants – many extensively gnawed by yaks or hacked by folk for kindling. Others appear sacred to man and beast alike. I noticed a beautiful blackberry with pure white canes, for example.

Whiteberries.

Coming up the rise in to Namche:

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11/11/2016: I followed my footsteps: I creep into Kathmandu in the small hours when only giant mountain dogs and stray donkeys roam the streets. After two nights at the wondrous Himalayan Traveller’s Inn, Thamel (http://www.himalayantravellersinn.com/), I creep out again in the dawn to fly to Lukla. It is the best of times. The twin-prop alights like a butterfly on a rhododendron blossom on the steeply sloping runway at this, the ‘most dangerous airport in the world’. Of a sudden you are in a Middle Ages overlain with 1950’s holiday camp. It is simply awesome, as are the dizzying vistas. This is clearly not the First World. If you are not proofed against Rabies, Hepatitis, Cholera, Encephalitis, Meningitis, Typhoid…the juxtaposition of the First and Third World, stay home.

Garden Restaurant, Himalayan Travellers Inn, Thamel, Kathmandu.

Early morning at Kathmandu airport: the smog completely obliterates the vast Himalayas which otherwise tower over this 5 million + city.

Our plane abandoning us in Lukla, falls off the mountainside.

I have a day waiting for my friend Steve (Tully) Hutcheson to arrive. I leave Lukla for a walk, first towards Bom, delightfully pronounced ‘bum’. If I had my druthers I would exclusively walk such backcountry trails and eschew the EBC altogether. There is so much peace and quiet, and no doubt the ‘real’ Nepal. Just outside Lukla these Himalayan dogs are clearly worshipping the Buddha in the westering light as they await further reincarnations. Further on I encounter another reality of the Third World in the raw. Two beautiful pre-teen girls were just returning to their makeshift mud floored home with teetering baskets of firewood twigs to unchill their leaky abode. Their goats always happy with this life played on the roof. A tricky power cable snakes through the thatch. They were also connected to satellite, their feet in the dust and their heads in the stars.

Dogs awaiting reincarnation contemplate the Buddha.

Quaint accommodation perhaps, but I am glad of our own modest home at Jeeralang Junction built also from the local earth and entirely with our own hands.

Close up. To underline that culture is humanity’s primary 'need', NB that a woman’s flowers bloom in pride of place even amidst this humble dwelling. The clothes are washed; the children clean.

Further down the valley I visit the local power station and the power station worker’s abode. Clearly no militant trade unions here! In Lukla I stay at the Lama Lodge in the main street http://www.booking.com/hotel/np/lama-lodge-and-restaurant-lukla.html. It has the virtue that you can book online and safely leave a bag for your return, which I did. The food is also excellent and the owners cheerful and delightful. Net it is as cheap as anywhere.

The immense physical effort of creating and linking these micro-hydro projects all over Nepal with sheer muscle power is astonishing.

Our CFMEU (union) would have the workers 'out' if forced to live and work in such accommodation...they do have power and satellite however!

My cosy room at the Lama Lodge.

In the afternoon I climb the hill behind the town into the rhododendron forests to gain some extra altitude acclimatisation. This is our strategy here: ‘Climb high, sleep low’, climb higher. You must also add in a ‘rest’ day where you sleep at the same altitude twice every 500 metres’ increase in elevation. I added ½ tab of Diamox twice daily to this regime (on my doctor’s advice) to prevent altitude sickness. All are excellent stratagems.

View from the tarmac (Lukla).

Climb up into the rhododendron forests above and you can see the town laid out below you.

Lukla is a pretty town perched high on a flattish space on the side of a mountain at 2800 metres. It has a modern high school accommodating 400 students. The Nepalis are busily pulling themselves up by their own bootlaces. There are many shops selling practically everything imaginable. NB: If you arrived here to start the EBC in just your shorts and thongs, providing you had a wallet full of money you could purchase all you need along the way. It would no doubt be even chaper than purchasing your supplies elsewhere. Right here in the main street a seamstress crafts perfect copies of North Face, Columbia & etc. Each town and village you pass is cluttered with goods and folks eager to sell them to you.

The High School nestled below the forest.

Part of the main street. The shops stretch this for hundreds of metres.

Donkeys and oxen are everywhere.

Next morning I meet Steve at the airport. We ‘do’ a quick tour of the town (Lukla), have some breakfast then are away on our EBC hike. Right at the edge of town the path begins. Throughout it is ‘constructed’ of irregular broken stone, requiring a peripatetic step-up, step down, step carefully…avoid the dizzying abysses. Cleave to the inside edge. Give way to yaks and porters wielding heavy loads…

Steve arrives and begins immediately to get into the spirit of things, contemplating his navel, etc.

The path goes ever on and on... To be continued.

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11/11/2016: To the Roof of the World: I have just limped back from a visit to Everest - if you wonder why I have been so quiet this last fortnight. I will be posting about this at greater length in the next few days. I developed an awful chest infection and am still very weak, so you will have to be satisfied for now with just this teaser. I will survive, I hope.

Everest View: I console myself with the thought that only a tiny fraction of humankind has seen this view.

Summit of Nangartschang hill, Dingboche, Nepal @ 5100 metres (16,700 feet).

Himalayan Sunset.

10/11/2016: Home safe from the EBC after 32 hours sitting up and 36 hours awake. Thanks to Bryn and Della for coming to pick me up from the airport. More later - after a nap!

09/11/2016: Checking in at Khatmandu. On my way home at last:

09/11/2016: My memories show that four years ago exactly I was sharing another adventure with Steve Tully Hutcheson. May there be many more hopefully not so arduous for either of us as the current one.

08/11/2016: In Kathmandu I went to the zoo. To the beautiful botanic gardens too. When I woke this morning and this was the view from my window I just knew I was not home in Jeeralang Junction! Thanks to Ram K Pyakurel manager of the Himalayan Travellers Inn for his thoughtfulness and for a very pleasant day.

Clearly the world needs old men's erections much more than it needs weird critters like that!

08/11/2016: Breakfast in the delightful back garden at the Himalayan Travellers Inn Thamel Kathmandu. Feeling a lot better today.

07/11/2016: Sadly I have had to pull out of the EBC trip as the morning after climbing to 5100 metres my lungs betrayed me. I have something like pneumonia. I have managed to drag myself painfully back to Khatmandu over three horrific days two of them walking over ten hours each from where Della Jones has arranged for my safe repatriation on Wednesday. There was a lot of time yesterday when I thought I would not make it but here I am still. No more adventures for a little while. I would like to point out that this was an unsupported hike - no porters or guides, carrying all my own gear etc. I just checked my walk logger.It says I walked 27 km yesterday and 29 the day before!

04/11/2016: Today we climbed this big hill just outside Dingboche. 750 metres straight up starting above the elevation of Mt Cook. This feather was the only sign of life I saw apart from innumerable crows and tourists.

03/11/2016: Steve Tully Hutcheson: ‘Believe it or not, that is Steve Jones down below.’ Near Namche Bazar.

Famous quotes of our time (Steve Jones): ‘Everything is bullshit’!

01/11/2016: First view of Everest. These lovely blue flowers were everywhere. Garlic soup for lunch and dinner. With Steve Tully Hutcheson.

01/11/2016: A very hard 800 metres uphill today to Namche. Some great views along the way. With Steve Tully Hutcheson.

29/10/2016: How the other half live. Rural Nepal is stunningly beautiful and the people who lived in this humble house appear delightfully happy.

24/10/2016: Must Take a Gun With Us on our afternoon walks. This afternoon, a fine fallow stag had just crossed the track in front of us and had dropped this excellent antler. When I have time I will have a look around his rub lines (and he must have a wallow in the gully nearby) to see if I can find its mate. As I have mentioned before the game around here (Jeeralang and Yinnar is really building up. Probably if I went out with a spotlight of a night I would see something interesting betimes on our top flat! In the picture I am trying to teach Spot what the stag looked like. He seems quite non-plussed!

17/10/2016: Everest Base Camp & Three Passes Trek:

I am busy getting ready for this (and trying to finish some jobs around the farm so posts have been rather light of late. I am a guest on this trip, so this is mostly Steve Hutcheson’s itinerary for the trip. I will be editing/adding to it over time, so come back and check. I am posting it now so you can check where I am if I happen to eg post a photo on Facebook or etc. If the going gets too rough for me and I have to drop the passes (I am more than twice Steve’s age), I will just go up (and down) from Lobuche to Gorek Shep - but I have been training for this (and I suspect it is relatively much easier than much of what I have done in my life), so I’m hoping for the best. We will carry all our own stuff but we might hire a porter/guide for the passes as the way can be harder to find there and you can’t afford to be wasting time on such long days. Keep you posted:

Day Minus 1: Fly to Kathmandu

Options for Kathmandu (stay relatively close to airport - Thamel):

Elbrus Home – LINK (#2 of 101 specialty lodging) - $14 per night, 1 room (2 adults) **

Hotel Osho Home – LINK (#6 of 175 hotels in Kathmandu) - $29 per night, 1 room (2 adults)

Backyard Hotel – LINK (#14 of 175 hotels in Kathmandu) - $15 per night, 1 room (2 adults)

** Pilgrim’s Guest House – LINK (#10 of 424 B&Bs in Kathmandu) - $12 per night, 1 rm (2 adults)

Recommended by this guy on Backpacking Light.

Himalayan Travellers Inn. Good Reviews $11 per night.

Day 0 - Flight to Lukla: Acclimatisation day Lukla

Stay at Lama Lodge and restaurant A$13/night twin room with ensuite.

A bag can be left here. Booked for return trip.

Better to get on first flight in morning due to fog.

Get a window seat on the LEFT (port) side for views of Everest.

Airport sits at 9,300 feet, 12% grade and drops over a 2,000 foot valley.

Labeled the most dangerous airport in the world.

FLIGHT: BOOK FLIGHT FROM KATHMANDU TO LUKLA TARA AIR:

Depart Kathmandu at 6:15 AM

Arrive Lukla at 6:45 AM

Simrik (Andrei flew this), Tara Air

The reason why Tara Air isn’t as popular (crash in 2016).

Tara Air – (10 kg permitted, $147 USD, refundable)

Kathmandu (6:15 AM) to Lukla (6:45 AM)**

Kathmandu (8:30 AM) to Lukla (9:00 AM)

Kathmandu (7:45 AM) to Lukla (8:15 AM)

Simrik Air – Oct 30 (10 kg permitted, $160.22 USD, refundable)

Kathmandu (8:45 AM) to Lukla (9:10 AM)**

Kathmandu (10:00 AM) to Lukla (10:25 AM)

Day 1: Lukla (2800 meters, 9186 feet) to Monjo (2835 meters, 9301 feet)

Time: 4 hours

STAY: Monjo Guesthouse (Stingy Nomads recommendation)

Freshly squeezed juices, hot shower (200 NPR, $2), TEMS permit (NPR 3000, $30).

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Lukla to Cheplung (1:15 hours)

Cheplung to Phakding (1:45 hours)

Phakding to Benkar (1:30 hours)

Benkar to Monjo (1:00 hour)

TOTAL: 5 hours, 30 minutes

Day 2 - Monjo (2835 meters, 9301 feet) to Namche Bazaar (3440 meters, 11286 feet)

Time: 2 hours, 40 min. Short, hard, steep climb.

Bakery: Everest Bakery (chocolate cake)

STAY: Thamsecko Lodge (pay permit on way – NPR 2000 ($20 USD).

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Monjo to Namche Bazaar (3:00 hours)

TOTAL: 3 hours

Day 3 - Namche (3440 meters, 11286 feet) to Khunde/Khumjung (3970 meters, 13025 feet) to Namche. Acclimatisation day.

DAY HIKE: Acclimatization Day

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Namche Bazaar to Khumjung (1:00 hour)

TOTAL: 3 hours

Day 4 - Namche (3440 meters, 11286 feet) to Pangboche (3985 meters, 13074 feet)

LONG DAY

Time: 10 hours

STAY: Buddha Lodge (water now $2 for 1.5L).

En route to Pangboche, stop at Tengboche to see famed Buddhist monastery.

Just in case, Pheriche: Stay at Shangri La Lodge (owner is Tashi Dunder Sherpa); very helpful and knowledgeable.

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Namche Bazaar to Sanasa (1:00 hour)

Sanasa to Phunki Thenga (1:30 hours)

Phunki Thenga to Tengboche (1:30 hours)

Tengboche to Pangboche (1:15 hours)

TOTAL: 5 hours, 15 minutes

Day 5 - Pangboche (3985 meters, 13074 feet) to Dingboche (4410 meters, 14470 feet)

Time: 3 hours

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Pangboche to Orsho (1:15 hours)

Orsho to Dingboche (1:00 hour)

TOTAL: 2 hours, 15 minutes

Day 6 - Dingboche (4410 meters, 14470 feet) to Nangartschang Hill (5085 meters, 16700 feet) to Dingboche. Acclimatisation Day.

DAY HIKE: Nangartschang Hill is close to Dingboche and has great views of Ama Dablam

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Dingboche to Nangartschang Hill (one-way, 1:30 hours)

TOTAL: 2 hours, 30 minutes

Day 7 - Dingboche (4410 meters, 14470 feet) to Chhukung (4700 meters, 15420 feet)

Time: 5 hours, 4730 meters.

Head to Chhukung Ri. Good to acclimatize. “Climb high, sleep low”.

Details: Can be difficult finding trail at times, especially in a little bit of snow.

There are two peaks at the top. The saddle b/t them is filled with many cairns.

Smaller summit is 17,700 feet.

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Dingboche to Chhukung (2:30 hours)

Chhukung to Chukkung Ri (one-way, 3 hours)

TOTAL: 7 hours

Day 8 - Chhukung (4700 meters, 15420 feet) to Kongma La (5535 meters, 18160 feet) to Lobuche (4940 meters, 16210 feet)

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Chhukung to Kongma La (3:30 hours)

Kongma La to Lobuche (3:00 hours)

TOTAL: 6 hours, 30 minutes

Note: Lobuche is known to have the worst accommodation.

PASS AND LONG DAY: Kongma La Pass

Time: 9 hours

Start at 4-5 am.

If recent snow, it may be too difficult to go over pass. Go around to Lobuche.

Details: Lots of climbing and then flat sections. Pass waterfalls and lakes en route.

Final climb is rather steep.

Best view of the three passes.

The way down can be difficult. Many huge boulders.

At bottom of pass, large moraine.

Follow meandering path on the glacier (marked by cairns).

Head down moraine on opposite side to Lobuche.

Day 9 - Lobuche (4940 meters, 16210 feet) to Gorak Shep (5164 meters, 16942 feet)

Time: 3 hours

Details: Short trek.

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Lobuche to Gorak Shep (2:30 hours)

Gorak Shep to Kala Pattar (one-way, 2:00 hours; return, 3:00 hours)

(for sunset if it is clear, unlikely)

TOTAL: 5 hours, 30 minutes

Day 10 - Gorak Shep (5164 meters, 16942 feet) to Everest Base Camp (5364 meters, 17598 feet)

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Gorak Shep to EBC (one-way, 2:30 hours; return 5:00 hours)

Gorak Shep to Kala Pattar (one-way, 2:00 hours, return, 3:00 hours)

** Do Kala Pattar in the EARLY morning.

TOTAL: 8 hours

DAY HIKE: EBC.

Time: 3 hours up, 1.5 hours back (4.5 hours total)

Tip: Start at 6 am to avoid hiking with HUGE groups!

EXTRA DAY HIKE: Kala Pattar (5643 meters, 18513 feet) for sunset

Time: 1.5-2 hours up. Take it slow.

These are the best views of Everest that you can get from anywhere (as a trekker).

Make sure that it is a beautiful day.

However, in the evenings, you risk low clouds/no view.

The entire base camp is located on the Khumbu Glacier.

Day 11 - Gorak Shep (5164 meters, 16942 feet) to Dzongla (4800 meters, 15748 feet)

Time: 5-6 hours

Suluk: Stay at Himalayan Lodge.

360-degree view of Himalayan Mountains

** Most beautiful mountain town on the hike (right next to large lake).

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Gorak Shep to Lobuche (2:00 hours)

Lobuche to Dzonglha (3:00 hours)

TOTAL: 5 hours

Day 12 - Dzongla (4800 meters, 15748 feet) to Cho La Pass (5420 meters, 17782 feet) to Gokyo (4750 meters, 15584 feet)

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Dzonglha to Cho La (3:00 hours)

Cho La to Gokyo (5:00 hours)

TOTAL: 8 hours

PASS DAY: Cho La Pass

Time: 5.5 hours + 1.5 hours for lunch

Suluk: Stay at Namaste Lodge (ALSO RECOMMENDED BY ‘LIVING IF’ blog).

Favorite place.

**NOTE: Most lodges can arrange porters, guides, or porter-guides for the relevant day. **

CROSSING CHO LA PASS:

http://www.escapeartistes.com/2013/01/04/crossing-the-cho-la-pass/

Details: Favorite pass (in terms of climb, not review).

There is a huge boulder field en route to pass.

Near the top of pass, there is a glacier, which can be very slippery. Trekking poles are essential for this section, and microspikes are recommended (need to do a cost-benefit analysis to see if the micropsikes are worth carrying).

For the last 20 feet, there is a big scramble where you have to use your hands.

Descent: Cross another glacier (Ngozumba Glacier), but it is just a wasteland of rocks.

The path across the glacier is further north than the map shows.

Head north out of Dragnag and you’ll find the path.

There is green paint on many rocks indicating the way.

Day 13 - Gokyo (4750 meters, 15584 feet) to Gokyo Ri (5357 meters, 17575 feet) to Gokyo (4750 meters, 15584 feet)

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Gokyo to Gokyo Ri (one-way, 2:30 hours)

TOTAL: 4 hours

Gokyo to Gokyo Ri (1.5 hours up, confirmed)

BEST VIEWS OF EVEREST.

2000 feet straight up.

Stunning view of Cho Oyu (6th highest mtn in world) and Ngozumba Glacier

Ask Andrei if he went up for sunrise or sunset?

DAY HIKE/CLIMB: Gokyo Ri has great views of the mountain range.

Back in Gokyo, should have great views of Cho Oyu.

Sunrise or sunrise.

Sacred Lakes of Gokyo!

Beautiful lake (Gokyo Lake)

Details: Gokyo is a big village in the Khumbu.

Has several teahouses (a few on higher end), a bakery, and small shops.

Gokyo Lake shines brilliantly blue.

Day 14 - Gokyo (4750 meters, 15584 feet) to Renjo La Pass (5360 meters, 17585 feet) to Lungdhen (4300 meters, 14107 feet)

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Gokyo to Renjo La (3:00 hours)

Renjo La to Lumde (Lungdhen) (3:00 hours)

TOTAL: 6 hours

PASS DAY: Renjo La Pass

Time: 7 hours

Details: First hour is pretty gradual and easy.

Many snowcocks across path (hilarious Himalayan birds).

Second hour is very steep until it opens up near the top of pass into a huge bowl.

Difficult to find path this day. Wind is ferocious and kept changing directions (b/c of being in a bowl).

The pass has gorgeous views of Everest and Lohtse.

The descent has a long set of rock steps. Easiest descent. Wind dies down once down below.

Ends up in a grassy valley with huge mountains on one end.

That valley joins up with another valley that is full of sand (frozen lakes, boulders, mountains).

Tons of potato farms.

Made it to Thame (town hit very badly by earthquake).

If fit, consider going to Thame (longer day, but lower elevation).

Day 15 - Lungdhen (4300 meters, 14107 feet) to Namche Bazar (3440 meters, 11286 feet)

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Lumde (Lungdhen) to Thame (2:00-3:00 hours)

Thame to Namche Bazaar (3:00 hours)

TOTAL: 6 hours

LONG DAY: Long day in terms of distance, but all downhill

Time: 7-8 hours

Day 16 - Namche (3440 meters, 11286 feet) to Lukla (2800 meters, 9186 feet)

LONG DAY: Another long day in terms of distance, but all downhill.

Time: 8 hours

Stay: North Face Resort

LONELY PLANET TIMES:

Namche Bazaar to Monjo (3:00 hours)

Monjo to Benkar (1:00 hour)

Benkar to Phakding (1:30 hours)

Phakding to Cheplung (1:15 hours)

Cheplung to Lukla (1:15 hours)

TOTAL: 8 hours

Day 17 – Return to Kathmandu/Buffer Day #1.

Rest day in Lukla (if too foggy)

Simrik Airlines – (10 kg permitted, $160.22 USD, refundable)

Lukla (6:50 AM) to Kathmandu (8:10 AM)

Lukla (8:10 AM) to Kathmandu (8:35 AM)

Lukla (9:20 AM) to Kathmandu (9:45 AM)

Lukla (10:35 AM) to Kathmandu (11:00 AM)

Tara Airlines – (10 kg permitted, $147 USD, refundable)

Lukla (8:30 AM) to Kathmandu (9:00 AM)

Lukla (7:00 AM) to Kathmandu (7:30 AM)

Day 18 - Buffer Day #2

*** FLIGHT: BOOK FLIGHT BACK FROM LUKLA TO KATHMANDU

Simrik Airlines

Depart Lukla at 6:50 AM.

Arrive Kathmandu at 7:15 AM.

Lukla to Kathmandu

Fly earlier.

Book an open ticket. Talk with representatives. Contact them in Lukla.

Get a seat on the RIGHT (starboard) side for views of Everest.

28/08/2016: You Never Know When Your Number’s Up. It does no good though to tippy toe through life so you safely arrive at death. We stroll our 10,000 daily steps somewhere in the forests around here (in this case just behind Yinnar). There had been a fair bit of rain which had created this pretty little waterfall just as a backdrop for my pretty little wife, Della.

She has been winding her chronological clock back and has now arrived at where she was when she was fifteen – at least as far as weight and fitness are concerned anyway. I have a similar goal but have still a way to go. I have only made my way back to my late twenties. My goal is 18!

I see lots of folk our age who have just decided to die – or they might as well. They say things like, ‘Time to kick back and take it easy’, or ‘We deserve a rest/break,’ ‘We have worked hard’ ‘At our time of life…’ and so on and so forth. What utter gibberish! Anyway ‘taking it easy’ pretty quickly gets them to where they pretty much can’t do anything else! You must see them hobbling along with their short shuffling steps because they have sat around so much they have lost all strength and muscle tone in their legs.

Now they have to lock their joints together (knees and hips) in order to walk (hence the shuffle). Of course, because they are slamming down on their joints all the time (instead of standing on their muscles) their joints are inflamed all the time (hence the hobble) so they don’t want to do overmuch of this walking. They evince utter amazement when we say we are just off for a hundred kilometre stroll through some remote wilderness. ‘I wish…’ they say. But ‘the wish is the father of the deed.’ They neither wish nor do. Don’t let yourself get into that same death spiral.

This wombat was just out for his evening stroll too when a fire-killed gum came crashing down just where he was walking, and he was no more. He had a cheeky sort of grin on his face though, so perhaps he saw the funny side of it too. I have had about four near-misses with trees like this over the years myself, but clearly my number was no up yet. Unlike Mr Vombatus Ursinus, whose was!

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/you-will-not-live-forever/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/free-willdeterminism/

11/08/2016: There is Simply Nothing Like an Old Port Walking Trail: Yesterday we decided to have a day off and enjoy a peaceful walk along this beautiful Gippsland trail. Because we are replete with serendipity we happened to be there at low tide (Do!) This way you can walk one way along the shore and return along the bridle path, or vice versa.

You can turn right at the caravan park sign on your right after the turn to Port Albert, go to the end of the road and start the walk there. Going this way you can avail yourself of really beautiful fish and chips (and mayhap a cold lager) at the grill and bar where the old (fire ravaged) hotel used to be (turn left at the Rocket Hut near the jetty – 50 metres on left). Highly recommended.

You can dawdle along and take about two hours each way, skipping stones, poking periwinkles, admiring the many gorgeous birds, snapping splendid sunsets, etc. If you wish (or have time) you can walk a further couple of hours along the foreshore towards Tarraville and Robertsons Beach.

Della and the dogs enjoyed the view.

Spot loves to race across the sand.

Glorious stippled patterns on the sand draw the dogs together,

Then launch them apart.

Spot bouncing on rays of stippled sunlight.

Past a red-billed shearwater.

A royal spoonbill takes off.

Just a hint of the Srzelecki Hills

Some beautiful mangroves.

And banksias.

A blue haze of Wilsons Prom in the background.

You can walk back along the bridle path.

Past grass trees flowering.

Ubiquitous flowering wattles.

Finally a sunset over Corner Inlet.

03/08/2016: 10 Days in Fiordland

Back from our 10 days mainly in Fiordland NZ marred somewhat by Della dislocating her shoulder in a fall from a rock. This led to the best helicopter ride ever, not enjoyed as much as it might have been however. Originally published 24 April 2011. Revised 4 August 2016.

We encountered this rock face about a quarter hour up the track from Supper Cove towards Loch Marie just after you cross the Hilda Burn:

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This was the rock: marked ( in 2012) ‘Della’s Rock’.

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It involved a steep (@8′) climb up and then a couple of steps along to the right.

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When you got to the top, you had to balance along the top.

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I was standing at the other side with my hand held out to steady her. She took one step forward and slipped, just missing my hand. Down she went.

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She slipped and fell back down catching her hiking pole which was attached to her wrist in the tree roots effectively hanging herself and dislocating her shoulder. Very nasty.

The reason she slipped (I later discovered) was that she had a twig caught up in the tread of the sole of her boot so that it acted like an ice skate.

I had been carrying an elastic bandage and a sling (neither of which had I ever used) as well as anti-inflammatories and Panadeine Forte. I used all of these pretty quickly that day. I imagined she had a broken arm. if i could I wanted to get her back to the helipad which was about a kilometre back on a relatively flat path with (unfortunately) one stream crossing for which she would not be able to use the walkwire. We were (fortunately) able to wade it downstream (which I knew we could).

After only a couple of hours at Supper Cove we were flying out on the helicopter again!

The track has now been diverted around this rock obstacle. Still there are many spots where you can come to grief if you are not careful – or if you are unlucky.

During those few minutes at Supper Cove she did manage to take some beautiful photos:

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View from the verandah of the Supper Cove Hut. Note moose browse on fuschia left in 2009.

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Looking down the fiord from the boat shed.

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Looking up the fiord across the Seaforth mouth.

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The Dusky Track begins…

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So much beauty.

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The Hilda Burn.

I plan to take her back one day, hopefully to walk at least one half of the track – perhaps the section Supper Cove – Hauroko.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-canoeing-the-seaforth/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-adventures-1/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/eddie-herrick-moose-hunting-at-dusky-sound/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-friend-i-met-on-the-dusky-track-fiordland-nz/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-south-coast-tracks/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dreaming-of-the-dusky-track/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-dusky/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/moose-hunting/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-moose/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-moose-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hunting-in-fiordland/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/off-to-fiordland/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/shadowland-fiordland-video/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-best-toilet-view-in-the-world/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/10-days-in-fiordland/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-2009/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-nz-with-bryn/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-april-2007/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/weather-for-fiordland/

03/08/2016: A friend I met on the Dusky Track, Fiordland NZ

(Revised 2016): 22/12/2014: ‘I was feeling a little down (due to some internet bullying), then a young friend rang to wish us ‘Seasons Greetings’ from Washington, which really brightened up my day! He is Steve Hutcheson a young American (29) I met on the Dusky Track, Fiordland NZ in 2012. At the time I had such a bad back I really did not think I could walk a step of the track, but wanted to re-visit Supper Cove one (last?) time. We spent a several days there fishing, talking, exploring; learning from each other. Then I walked out the 50 km with him. Lots of Panadeine Forte; also lots of good company.

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Steve Hutcheson on the verandah of the Supper Cove Hut 2012.

He later visited us here (twice) and we have been in contact many times since. I hope to do more hiking with him in the future: perhaps the Pacific Crest Trail? Who knows? I have since had a back operation which has returned some of my functionality. And I have been back to Dusky again (in April), and also walked the South Coast Track there.

It is GREAT to be able to make new friendships and renew old ones. I write these comments to recall my (small) adventures, offer (I hope) useful practical advice, and stimulate thought and discussion. I thank you ALL for your support. I never have expected others to think as I think, just as I do not think as others do. That is all part of the great adventure of life – as is long distance hiking in the wild places of the world…I have a few adventures in mind yet, if I am able, such as the Upper Yarra Track which I have been discussing lately. Any who want to join me are welcome.

I also met a young Israeli on the 2012 Dusky walk. He also visited us twice, and I keep in touch with him. Neither of these people is on Facebook for one reason or another. It may surprise you that much of my discussion with the Israeli chap during the several days of our walk was an attempt to convince him of the essential goodness of human beings, and that this applied just as much to Moslems. It may surprise you more that I have had, and still have Moslem friends – who read my posts.

Replies to comments: I intend many of my posts to be absurd – life often is. Jesus was a much nicer man than Mohammed but not half such a good man as Socrates in my opinion, (or Buddha for that matter). Still, I do not respect religion and would rather see it gone from the earth. Thank you also X, Y Z, etc for your comments and others for your support. I know that there are others who have been reading this without comment too who are with me in my endeavours. I will try to continue to post interesting, thoughtful things. Hope you continue to enjoy them’.

POST SCRIPT (August 2016):

I have been reviewing my Dusky posts (and will be adding some more soon). I saw that this one needed some more fleshing out. So, I have added some pictures. I have been back to the Dusky (in 2013) but still have not taken Della on this wonderful track. Maybe next year.

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Bucket full of ‘Spotties’ = bait.

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Seven-gilled shark. We caught this guy but were not able to haul him in with my handline.

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A good feed of Blue Cod. The most delicious of all fish. Do take a handline to Supper Cove.

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An old moose track: you can still see the indentation of the huge print above my glasses case. Taken high on the ridge above the Supper Cove Hut.

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This one may be a moose too – a red deer track off to the right for comparison. Henry Burn (also called ‘Moose Creek’).

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Setting off from Supper Cove: a couple of Panadeine Forte under my belt but still the pack hurts.

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Lunch stop Day Two: Seaforth River above Lock Marie.

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Looking a little the worse for wear (me) at the Kintail Hut.

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At the track head (Wilmot Pass Road) end of Day Four.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-canoeing-the-seaforth/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-track-adventures-1/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/eddie-herrick-moose-hunting-at-dusky-sound/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-friend-i-met-on-the-dusky-track-fiordland-nz/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-south-coast-tracks/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dreaming-of-the-dusky-track/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-dusky/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/moose-hunting/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-moose/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-moose-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/hunting-in-fiordland/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/off-to-fiordland/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/shadowland-fiordland-video/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-best-toilet-view-in-the-world/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/10-days-in-fiordland/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-2009/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-nz-with-bryn/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-april-2007/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/weather-for-fiordland/

22/05/2016: Cloud Forests of Nth Qld: Mid winter is the time to visit and do some fascinating hikes in this part of our country. 14 July is the average coldest day in Cairns (22C). It is 5-10C cooler up on the tablelands and in the high cloud forests, so pleasant walking then. There is a huge expanse of country up there which is @ 1500 metres up. Bartle Frere may be our place to start. We really enjoyed its environs (Babinda Boulders, Josephine falls etc) on our last trip Nth. There are some fine sounding walks further Sth around Cardwell/Tully etc. Will be checking for deals on ‘Tiger’ for around that time. Lambing time too unfortunately, though that is not so hectic now we are retired from large-scale sheep raising: http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/misty-mountains/pdf/misty-mountains-general-map.pdf

http://www.tablelandadventureguides.com.au/2010/07/main-peak-trek-bartle-frere/

17/04/2016: South Coast Track, Fiordland, NZ, Della’s Version: Finally finding time to go through the pix. Internet availability being what it is in wilderness areas, I missed the chances to post pix on a daily basis, so I will do a daily selection now we are home to mirror the days on the track. Day one was totally passive, involving a jet boat ride over the beautiful Lake Hauroko and then helter-skelter down the fast-running Wairaurahiri River to the sea. There we stayed overnight in lovely wilderness accommodation and prepared our packs for the big walk ahead.

Our jet boat waiting. Lake Hauroko was like a mill-pond:

Lake Hauroko from the jet boat:

Speeding down the Wairaurahiri River. Pretty exciting!

Nearly at the sea. The walk-wire we will cross later in our travels.

South Coast Track, Fiordland, NZ, days 2 and 6.

I have grouped the 2 days together (there and back again) from the Wairaurahiri River to the Waitutu Lodge. After a couple of hours along the coast, the going was mainly through the Waitutu Forest, which has never been logged and belongs to the Maori. This was the hardest piece of walking, about 10 hours with minimal breaks each time, and much hard going through deep mud, treacherous tree roots and stream gullies. Still, the scenery was wonderful. Strangely, we didn't take any pics of the nasty, hard bits...just too busy getting through them, I guess!

The mouth of the Crombie River, Steve with Pete (and his pig dog, Sophie), caretaker of the Waitutu Lodge who accompanied us on part of the walk.

There is always a friendly robin to help with the lunch stops in Fiordland.

Steve in a drier section of the track.

Ain’t this just beautiful!

The coast at the Waitutu Hut where we spent the nights of day 2 and day 5.

That's me negotiating a walk wire over the Crombie.

Five minutes after setting out. The first mud!

Day 3 South Coast Track, Fiordland, NZ. On this day we set out from the Waitutu Hut heading for Westies Hut, an advertised 6 hours away. This destination was the big one of the trip, as we had failed to make it in 2015 due to a knee injury on my part. Very few people seem to have been there, as we could glean only a little hearsay of the track conditions, most of which suggested very wet and muddy going. We set out in light drizzle which cleared by mid-morning. The track was a little muddy at the beginning, but as we climbed gently it became lovely, dry, open forest. Sadly, around lunchtime, we were stopped in our tracks by a flooded river with no safe crossing apparent. The water appeared to be at least chest-deep, and with heavy packs it presented a dangerous obstacle. We knew that some people walked along the beach around the headlands, but the high tide was not conducive to that either. Fortunately we came across a comfortable hut hidden in the forest so we reviewed the situation overnight and with tide times supplied by Matt via our satellite phone planned to skip around the headlands at low tide the next day. Westies Hut was still accessible, we hoped!

White moss made the ground look snow-covered.

Some muddly sections, but isn't this white moss amazing!

Steve in the more open forest section.

No go across this river. Someone had tied rope, but this little black duck was not about to wade chest deep!

The cliffs we needed to walk around....tide is too high at this stage, but maybe in the morning...

Days 3 and 4 Fiordland South Coast Track, N.Z.: Finally to Westies Hut and back again!

Well, the tide was low enough around lunchtime to skirt the 2 big headlands on the beach. The beach walking was lovely and Steve managed to beat a path along pig and deer runs back to the walking track afterwards. The walk to Westies was delightful and descending the cliff to reach our final destination almost a piece of cake. Westies consists of some privately owned huts nestled in a huge complex of sea caves. The huts were comfortable and the scenery breathtaking. The lashing of the sea all night was a bonus! Not too many people venture out as far as Westies, and we saw no-one on our travels, but it was well worth the effort! Finally we made Westies in our second year of trying!

Not a bad place for a lunch stop!

A view of Westies coastline from the track.

The final descent. The rope was helpful!

Westies huts in the main cave. There were many more caves to explore, including a separate one for the outhouse!

Heading back to the Waitutu Hut , Day 4. Steve got to practise using his new knuckles on this rope!

Our walk around the cliffs at low tide

Last of the Fiordland pics today, covering days 8-11. At the end of Day 6 we arrived back at the Wairaurahiri Lodge for much-needed washing of ourselves and our muddy clothes. After a day's rest, we set off for the 2 day walk to our waiting car. We walked this section last year, and so didn't pause for many photos this time. The first day to Port Craig is along the old logging tramway and is easy walking. After a night spent in the quaint old Port Craig school-house, we set off in the steady rain for a wet slog to the carpark. The scenery on this section is lovely too, but our cameras were trying to stay dry in our packs. Much of our waterproof gear failed us on this last day: Steve's waterproof hearing aids, our " Event" fabric raincoats and Steve's waterproof camera, not to mention his very absorbent new hiking shoes. Part of the problem was the warmth and humidity which worked against the breathability of some of the items. Anyway, we have no pix of this last day but plenty stored away from 2015. Finally, we spent the last 2 days doing some tourist stuff: a touch of shopping for me as well as revisiting the drive to Milford Sound and discovering the Mount Aspiring National Park. There are some appealing walks around Mount Aspiring for another visit!

Setting out from the Wairaurahiri Lodge: clean and re-energised!

The tramway track en route to Port Craig.

The amazing viaduct over the Percy Burn.

Mount Aspiring National Park.

Mount Aspiring National Park: Waterfall with rainbow.

17/04/2016: South Coast Track Fiordland NZ: Waitutu to Westies: Do not be put off this trip. It is wonderfully worth the effort. After the first half hour it is a fine (mostly dry) track with many interesting features. Here and there you can step a few yards off it for wonderful views of the sea.

It is possible to walk much of the distance along the beach. The first half hour on the beach is mainly stones so you may prefer the section of wet track which is an alternative. After half an hour on the track there is an well-marked exit to the beach. You can walk all the way to the Grant Burn, just after which you can rejoin/exit the track. You can easily walk from the Grant Burn to the Aarn River and rejoin the track there (we did). I believe you could walk along further to the next major stream and easily walk up the dry ridge on the true left bank of it to rejoin the track.

Walking along the beach is probably OK from half tide (ie three hours before) to low tide and maybe for an hour after that. You have to remember that it will take over an hour to walk from the beach entrance a half hour after the Waitutu to the Grant Burn, then a bit over an hour again to the Aarn River. There are a couple of points you would not get around at a higher tide and the rocks would become very slippery, so you have to watch the tide and the condition of the sea. Only do this if you know what you are doing. Allow three hours. High tide could trap you in such a way it would be impossible to climb cliffs to escape the sea. Walking from the Waitutu to the stream after the Aarn River would cut off over 3-4 hours of what for us would otherwise be a seven hour plus walk. The two river crossings (walkwires) split the trip almost exactly in three – about 2 ½ hours each.

Just after the Grant Burn (400 metres) the next stream is flooded by its mouth being blocked. It is more or less a swim, ie not ‘Della-able’– which is why we walked along the beach. We marked the way to (and from) the beach with orange tape.

To begn: Crossing the Waitutu:

Beach at the Waitutu looking West:

Looking up the Waitutu River:

Della doing repairs to my pack on the Waitutu verandah:

View from the hut verandah of the Waitutu:

Half an hour from the Waitutu looking West (walkable):

‘Like snow upon the desert’s dusky face’

And mud actually:

Old telegraph ‘pole’. They used to just cut the top off a tree!

Crossing the Grant Burn:

Flooded stream we could not cross just after the Grant Burn:

Grant Burn looking East:

Red billed shearwaters:

A warm DOC hut we found:

It was small enough our body heat easily warmed it:

Grant Burn looking West:

Looking back towards the Grant Burn from Knife and Steel Harbour:

Approaching Knife and Steel:

Knife and Steel: the old hut (white dots) would have been a welcome sight.

The old winch at Knife and Steel once used to pull fishing boats up on the beach.

Remains of the old hut at Knife and Steel after DOC had their way with it:

Blue crane and redbilled shearwaters:

Looking back towards Knife and Steel:

Here and there streams simply cascade down onto the beach:

Aarn River looking West; still walkable:

Aarn River:

Remains of the Aarn River hut:

Aarn River walkwire:

Near the stream after the Aarn River someone has thoughtfully erected a bosun’s chair for the weary traveller:

I think you could walk along the beach to the first stream after the Aarn:

One more river to cross:

Fungal surprises along the way:

Most of the way out to Westies the track is dry and easy:

With many glimpses of the sea:

A final stream crossing:

First view of Price’s Harbour – Westies is not in the cave on this (Eastern) headland:

It is on the other side of this Western headland:

A steep descent to Westies Hut and you are there:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/south-coast-track-fiordland-nz-wairaurahiri-to-waitutu-2016/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/dusky-south-coast-tracks/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-2014-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-walk-in-fiordland/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/bucket-list-westies-hut/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-wairaurahiri-to-rarakau/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-wairaurahiri-to-waitutu-part-4/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/westies-hut-topo-map-errors/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/waitutu-forest-fiordland-warm-air-pockets/

16/04/2016: South Coast Track Fiordland NZ: Wairaurahiri to Waitutu: Since we were there last year some new alternatives have emerged. On the way out we were able to follow alovely dry even old hunter’s route along the coast to the crossing of the Crombie Stream, then walk up the ridge on its true right bank (facing downstream) and rejoin the South Coast track. Many beautiful views along the way.

There used to be a convenient hunter’s hut at the Crombie Mouth (the ‘Manuka Lodge’) but it has ‘unfortunately’ been burned down. An educated guess about who was responsible would be reasonable. DOC is also in the process of dismantling an excellent ‘survival’ hut at Knife and Steel Harbour, the next inlet West of the Grant Burn. It is no longer usable.

This alternative route along the coast avoids about half of the worst section of the South Coast Track. From the Wairaurahiri River to the Crombie Stream is muddy and rough. From the Crombie to about half an hour after the Angus Burn it is even muddier and nastier. After that, there is a short wet bit for half an hour after the Waitutu, then it is a fine track all the way to Westies.

Also, about an hour after the Angus Burn there is a new track down to the DOC hut at Long Point – worth a side trip if you have the time. You can stay there. The hut is about an hour off the main track and nearby the lighthouse there with many beautiful views. It is about two hours from the Long Point Hut to the Waitutu Hut. We noticed another track off towards the coast only about half an hour from the Waitutu Hut. This may be a loop track to/from Long Point. The first exit was marked with white triangles; the second with orange. Some exploration would no doubt reap rewards. A little closer to the Waitutu you will also notice a track which head off upriver to the Slaughter Burn, Lakes Poteriteri & Hauroko. There is some tape nearby these three exits, but you have to be watching out for them nonetheless. For variety it may also be possible to walk some of the distance (out to the Crombie for example) along the beach at low tide.

On the way back to the Wairaurahiri, about an hour after you cross the Crombie Stream keep your eye out for a short cut track to the Waitutu Lodge off to your right (just before the steep stream crossing – Tiny’s Creek). If you are staying at the Waitutu Lodge (You Should!) this dry short cut will be most welcome. I guess it cuts off about hald an hour of unpleasantness.

Della at the Wairaurahiri Mouth (looking East) before setting out. So clean:

Wairaurahiri looking West:

Giant Rimu. There are lots of them. The Waitutu Forest was never inhabited by man:

Setting off on ‘Tiny’s Track’ towards the Crombie:

Deer pen just off track half way to the Crombie: looking West. Beach walkable.

Same spot looking East.

Detail: Crombie Mouth:

Sophie at the Crombie Mouth:

Pete, Steve & Sophie surveying the Crombie Mouth:

Crombie Mouth looking back East: Walkable?

Pete & Della: Crombie Mouth looking West: Beach looks walkable all the way to Long Point from here.

Here is a zoom of it:

Della crossing the Crombie: return journey:

The track is very muddy from the Crombie to about half an hour after the Angus Burn (Long Point turnoff):

Angus Burn resident robin:

Crossing the Angus Burn:

Half an hour after the Angus Burn the track suddenly improves; the last hour or so is dry and pleasant:

With numerous beautiful vistas:

And interesting things to see, like this stump:

And this mushroom:

A fine dry track:

Pretty much all the way to Westies:

Quite open just before the Waitutu:

Waitutu: first view of the sea:

Waitutu River crossing:

Beach at Waitutu looking back East:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-2014-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-walk-in-fiordland/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/bucket-list-westies-hut/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-wairaurahiri-to-rarakau/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-wairaurahiri-to-waitutu-part-4/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/westies-hut-topo-map-errors/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/waitutu-forest-fiordland-warm-air-pockets/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/westies-hut/

12/04/2016: South Coast Track Fiordland NZ: Westies Cave: We have just returned from this magical place four days walk along the South Coast Track from Tuatapere, Fiordland NZ where we stayed in this wonderful hut nestled in a sea cave at the Western end of Price’s Harbour at the far end of the fabulous ‘South Coast Track’:

This is the first view you have of Price’s Harbour from the track. The topo map and GPS incorrectly locates the Westies cave and hut at the eastern end of the harbour in the cave marked with a white arrow on the rocks. Ignore this. Follow the track to the track junction (.5 hour) and take the left fork, marked with square orange reflectors instead of the usual triangular ones you have been following up to now.

The hut (cave) is in the opposite (Western) side of the Western end (below) of Price’s Harbour.

The turn off (below) is impossible to miss:

Gazing down at the beach in Price’s Harbour – nary a footprint there:

First view of the vista to the West of Price’s Harbour. ‘Victoria’s ‘Twelve Apostles’, eat your heart out!

First view of Westies Cave; the two huts are snuggled down in there:

First view of Westies hut(s):

Westies main hut (where he lived for a number of years) is nestled just inside the cave mouth with a splendid view out to sea:

View from the toilet:

I will add this to my list of interesting toilets:

The cave has a second (western) entrance. This is the splendid view from it:

And with me being a blot on the landscape:

And this a few steps further along:

Looking back East towards the main cave:

You had to descend dizzying cliffs through the jungle to get down here:

Like this:

My (hand) specialist was doubtful why I asked whether my new knuckles would be strong enough to climb a rope:

To the East one cave leads to a little beach or another cave. There is a veritable maze of wonderful sea caves:

So many:

With delightful glimpses through them:

They frame beautiful landscapes:

You can just walk through from one to the other:

Again and again:

Until you’re not sure which way is back:

A worry if the sea is rising:

Another outstanding feature of Price’s Harbour are the awesome stone monoliths:

They are so enchanting:

Some come with their own mermaids (wrapped well against sandflies):

Finally you look out East towards the other headland of Price’s Harbour – the one the GPS wrongly thinks the hut is in:

The main cave is very large. The huts have seven berths (a double in the main hut) and five bunks in the second hut. There is ample room on the floor to sleep a few people more. Outside a veritable army could camp.

There is a ‘chip’ water heater and a hot shower:

Inside the main hut is friendly and cosy. Four could easily sit around the table. There is a two seater lounge, a double bed, a pot belly stove, sink (with water), a couple of windows with splendid views out to sea. What a home it is.

The bunk house:

Above the ht is the water supply: a small stream (you might need to clean out the filter, and a rain catchment roof for the ‘dry season’. There are carefully printed instructions about how to operate the plumbing.

This was our last view of Westies. What a wonderful place it was!

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-2014-2/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-walk-in-fiordland/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/bucket-list-westies-hut/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-wairaurahiri-to-rarakau/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/fiordland-wairaurahiri-to-waitutu-part-4/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/westies-hut-topo-map-errors/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/waitutu-forest-fiordland-warm-air-pockets/

27/03/2016: Glamping Wilsons Prom: You can spend a lovely two days walking from Mt Oberon Car park to Wilsons Prom Lighthouse and back staying in pretty plush accommodation at the lighthouse. The distances are considerable, but this way you only need to carry a daypack with emergency supplies, a bottle of wine to drink on the verandah at night etc, so the 19.1 km there via Telegraph Saddle and the slightly longer journey back via Little Waterloo Bay is quite ‘doable’. If two retirees can do it, so can you! You can also (instead) take the slightly longer route from Tidal River via Overon Bay (23.8 km). For details, bookings and pictures about the accommodation, see here: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/wilsons-promontory-national-park/things-to-do/wilsons-promontory-lightstation Of course, if you can’t quite make those distances or if you want to camp out, there are campsites with water, etc at the Half Way Hut, Roaring Meg (about an hour from the lighthouse) and at Little Waterloo Bay (about half way back). You may notice an absence of Jack Russels in this post – too public a (banned) spot for them I’m afraid. The pictures lack something from their absence…

Heading off.

The Half Way hut (water and campground) along the telegraph Track.

Granite Tors and first view of Rodondo Island.

A ship sails past Rodondo Island which has been climbed (but not by me).

First view of Wilsons Prom.

Wilsons Prom buildings (detail).

Road from the docks to the lighthouse - interesting eagle rock.

The lighthouse keeper’s cottage (accommodation).

The leaning tower of Wilsons Prom.

Wilsons Prom's resident wombat.

The beauties of Wisons Prom lighthouse.

Wilsons Prom sunset.

Wilsons Prom docks.

Interesting granite tors at the Prom.

Another view.

Leaving the Lighthouse.

View back towards the lighthouse from the Waterloo Bay track.

Last view of the lighthouse.

Lunch stop.

All the tracks are well made and maintained. Easy walking.

Many refreshing fern gullies along the Eastern side.

Little Waterloo Bay-

You could not wish for whiter sand or bluer water anywhere.

An Easter Island monument on the way back to the Telegraph track.

14/03/2016: Upper Yarra Track Side Trip: Poverty Point: From the Thomson River Bridge/s (‘Thomson Station’) you can walk a lovely 8 km circuit up along the West bank of the river then down along the East bank. If I were walking the entire UYT I would come down to Thomson Station as soon as it joined the Mormon Town Track and walk up the West bank as it is far more beautiful, and would otherwise be missed – as would the two excellent campsites to be found along it. The first only about 200 metres from the main roads is large enough for several caravans (there was a 25’ one parked there as we walked by). The second campsite is on a large flat along the river about 300 metres below the Poverty Point Bridge – there is a track down to it. The track also crosses two small creeks on each side of the river which would provide a campsite on a flat section of the track (if you can get your tent pegs in).

Within 100 yards of the main road you start to see these beautiful fern gullies. You cross Jack Creek and take the walking track to the right (signposted).

Both tracks follow the routes of old timber tramlines so they are delightful easy going. A Jack Russell like Spot can really tear along them!

Here he comes again!

The track on the West side provides splendid views of the beautiful Thomson River - which provides wonderful canoeing opportunities when the river heights are right. See http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thomson-river-gippsland-victoria/ and this video: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/videos/thomson-river-canoe-trip-2006-complete/

There are plenty of cool, shady areas to stop and rest. Soon you come to the second stream:

'By channels of coolness the echoes are calling,

And down the dim gorges I hear the creek falling’ Bellbirds, Henry Kendall: http://www.mountainman.com.au/kendall.html

You can dimly glimpse the waterfall above the last photo.

After about 1.5 hours the Poverty Point Bridge looms in sight.

Unbelievably the bridge was constructed (prefabricated) in England in 1900 and shipped out to this remote place.

View downstream from the bridge: you can just make out the flat in the river mentioned earlier where you can camp.

Tiny is 16 but still enjoys a long walk (and a cool puddle). This is a stream on the east bank. She is looking up to a bench where once a timber getter's house stood. They had cellars under their bark huts for milk/cheese (from their goats) and pocket handkerchief vegie gardens up along the streams. Saturday nights they would walk (10 km) into Walhalla to socialise. In the past people had to ‘make do’. They raised a nation of strong, independent people.

Maps for this section:

Walhalla South T8122-2-S and Avenza Pdf App.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-two-yallourn-north-to-wirilda-park/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-three-wirilda-to-moondarra/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-four-moondarra-to-erica/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-five-erica-to-walhalla/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-seven-mushroom-rocks-carpark-to-phillack-saddle/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-nine-phillack-saddle-to-block-10-road/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-ada-tree-to-big-pats-creek/

See also Upper Yarra Track Winter Route & Side Trips:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/western-tyers-river-great-for-crays/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-western-tyers/

http://www.finnsheep.com/THE%20UPPER%20YARRA%20WALKING%20TRACK.htm

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-st-gwinear-track-junction-to-whitelaws-hut/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-summary-cumulative-distancestimes/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-osheas-mill/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-beautiful-world/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-caringal-scout-camp-tyers-junction/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-morgans-mill-skinners-camp/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-to-tanjil-bren/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/kirchubel-if-you-go-nowhere-else-in-the-world-at-least-go-here/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-downey-to-newlands/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-glamping-baw-baw-overnight-hike/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-side-trip-poverty-point/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-sidetrip-horseshoe-tunnelcoopers-creek/

24/02/2016: Upper Yarra Track Sidetrip: Baw Baw to Mt St Phillack:

What a way to escape the heat! Others may flock to the beach. We give our hearts to the mountains. Mt Baw Baw was to be 8C cooler than home (with no power) and with a delightful cooling 30 kph breeze. When we left our car at the bottom of Candleheath Drive (Go down Frosti Lane next to the shop until you come to the sign for Mueller’s Track) it was a balmy 24C with a cool breeze blowing. So suck eggs!

Take Mueller’s track. Just cross this magic bridge – watch out for trolls!

Once more into the bush dear friends!

Jackie Winters are as common as sparrows up there.

So are native snowdrops! Follow Mueller’s Track. Take every turn to the left until you come to here:

The turnoff to the new (St Gwinear) track near Baragwanath Flat (where the old track also exits – don’t take that!) is impossible to miss. On the way back take every turn to the right. Mt Baw Baw is a maze of tracks. You can wander round in circles for hours! It is very lovely though! The track follows a ridge but crosses two gullies – so water every km.

This one is West Tanjil Creek.

Time for Tiny to have a bath.

A host of golden everlasting daisies - so much better than those fleeting daffodils!

Spot races ahead, then races back. I was calling him back for fear of snakes. We saw none, but there were innumerable very fat skinks. They must store it against the winter cold.

He leaps on a giant tor having similar (lichen) spots to himself.

The intersection with the Alps & Upper Yarra Tracks. ‘This is the way we went last week’, says Spot.

Here we are again at Phillack Saddle (http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-nine-phillack-saddle-to-block-10-road/ ) Such a delightful place to camp. You can read the track distances if you zoom in (double click). Are we staying again, the dogs want to know. Not this trip.

‘To see a World in a Grain of Sand

And a Heaven in a Wild Flower’ (Blake)

Wonder too at these amazing miniature native violets! The tip of my hiking pole for comparison.

This snow gum has loved this stone ever so long...

And this one galled by man's cruel sign - anthropomorphism is fun, but do not seek truth that way!

At last (after 1.5 hours) Mt St Phillack: Spotty barked several times at the cairn. His opinion is cairns ought not to be there - but Jack Russells...they can go anywhere!

This is a walk you might do on a summer trip to Mt Baw Baw. There is plenty of accommodation – even a restaurant: https://mountbawbaw.com.au/

23/02/2016: Upper Yarra Track Section Eight: Phillack Saddle to Block 10 Road:

What a lovely section of track! The high country has so much beauty, so many surprises. Phillack Saddle is a wonderful spot to camp on lawns tended by nature’s gardeners amid the alpine heath. There is beautiful clear water just off the saddle and a lovely stream (below) at Freeemans Flat. It will be about 7.5 hours to our car at the Block 10 Road – if we make it!

Phillack Saddle

Freemans Flat

100 yards after Phillack Saddle you come to the new track across to Baw Baw

Spot helped put up the Zpacks Solo Plus tent whilst Tiny rested.

Della and Tiny went to bed early. They are old girls!

The new Maratac torch makes a great lantern: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/mini-super-torch-a-weeks-light-weighs-50-grams/

Tiny was tired out. She is 16 1/2.

There are other lovely spots to camp along the way but no water until Whitelaws Hut and then .5 km after the Upper Yarra turn-off. After two hours you reach the Whitelaw Hut site (water to the North). Another hour brings you out onto the old forest road up from Newlands which you will follow. Half an hour along it you come to the intersection. It is only @3km down to Newlands Rd but the road is overgrown with seasonal weeds which will slow you down. 1.5-2 hours for this section, then about 2.5 to the Block 10 Road.

The dogs demonstrate: 'High Point'.

There are many friendly critters along the way: fantail.

'Hurry Up' says Spot.

We are always too slow for him. He is only 3!

Here we are for lunch at Whitelaws Hut. There are plenty of camps here.

Tiny helped hreself to a muesli bar from my pack when I wasn't looking. Chewy!

Many beautiful flowers adorn the path.

And interesting denizens: this was the fattest skink I have ever seen. Must have been nearly 1" in diameter but only 6" long!

An hour after Whitelaws Hut you hit an old road - which shou;ld be kept clear for emergencies and park maintenance in my opinion, but it is neglected.

You can easily walk abreast along here.

This is the turnoff. Turn downhill, South. Parks have stuffed a hopeless map between the timbers. That is the sum total of their efforts.

There were many beautiful sites in this section, but as much of it needed slashing, Inforgot to take photos.

Lots of spots you could camp on the way down to Newlands. There is water as well where you first cross the Thomson - which is 60 cm wide at this point. The road is wide and level.

A huge dead tree suddenly crashed down as we passed: There but for fortune...

The Frangipani Saddle - and the skull of a hiker our dogs pulled down and ate!

Snack time at Frangipani Saddle.

Newlands Rd is the most gorgeous in the whole world!

Della striding out once more.

You cross (and parallel) the diminutive Thomson River lots of times. It abounds in trout. There are numerous camping opportunities in Newlands Rd. The last is at the final crossing where there is a fine spot and a sign saying, ‘ No Camping’.

Newlands is just outstandingly beautiful...

And no cars...

Just the bush, Spot and Tiny, and us.

Anything for me, Della? Smackos?

This grnite tor had rolled a long way!

There are bridges so you won't get your feet wet anywhere from the Mushroom Rocks car park.

After the last crossing you can take a prominent road to the North.

Well something had been eating them. Not me unless I'm sure though.

After about half a km there is a pretty little lake full of trout!

A superb camp site. Nobody around.

MMBW Control gates.

We encountered this giant worm pout for a walk!

Figure 2At last, here we are at the Block 10 Road gates. There are a couple of nice spots to camp here, but no water - go back to the lake!

For the section Baw Baw to Phillack Saddle see: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-baw-baw-to-newlands-rd/

This map may help. You should walk along the Village Trail clockwise. That way you will come to the new track to Phillack Saddle before you come to the old which is wee-nigh impassable – though we managed it. On the new track it is 1-1.5 hours; probably nearer 3 on the old. Be warned!

Telstra NextG mobile phone works most places across the Plateau.

Maps for this section:

Mostly Walhalla North T8122-2-N and part of Noojee North T8122-3-N and Avenza Pdf App.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-two-yallourn-north-to-wirilda-park/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-three-wirilda-to-moondarra/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-four-moondarra-to-erica/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-seven-mushroom-rocks-carpark-to-phillack-saddle/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-ada-tree-to-big-pats-creek/

See also Upper Yarra Track Winter Route:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/western-tyers-river-great-for-crays/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-western-tyers/

http://www.finnsheep.com/THE%20UPPER%20YARRA%20WALKING%20TRACK.htm

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-three-wirilda-to-moondarra/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-four-moondarra-to-erica/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-five-erica-to-walhalla/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-st-gwinear-track-junction-to-whitelaws-hut/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-summary-cumulative-distancestimes/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-osheas-mill/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-beautiful-world/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-caringal-scout-camp-tyers-junction/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-morgans-mill-skinners-camp/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-to-tanjil-bren/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/kirchubel-if-you-go-nowhere-else-in-the-world-at-least-go-here/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-downey-to-newlands/

23/02/2016: Upper Yarra Track Section Seven: Mushroom Rocks Carpark to Phillack Saddle:

This is a beautiful easy section comprising widely varying vegetation and topography, the spectacular ‘Mushroom Rocks’, the ruin of the Talbot Peak hut, Mt St Phillack, the highest point on the Baw Baws, and a delightful camp at Phillack Saddle. Side trips can be taken to Mt St Gwinear and Baw Baw Alpine Village.

It is about 20 minutes walk from the car park (toilets, water, scenic side-trip) to the Mushroom Rocks where there is scout hut accommodation if you have arranged it. It is another hour to Talbot Peak hut site (each way). From there it is about 2.5 hours to the St Gwinear turn-off and about another half hour to the Phillack Saddle and and the Baw Baw turn-off and a further 1-1.5 hours to the Baw Baw Village. Say about 5.5 hours from the car park to the Village each way. You can stay at the village, even have a meal, so you could do this walk overnight with just day packs.

Some parts of the track are even board-walked. You won’t get your shoes dirty as far as Mushroom Rocks at least.

Lots of lovely smells to interest the dogs who wondered which generation (of dogs) was this all being 'saved' for. Well, this one apparently!

Mushroom rocks shelter, There is another (one person) at the St Gwinear turn-off.

You can see why they are named 'mushroom rocks'.

These alpine meadows are delightful.

There is a small steepish section.

Water often collects in hollows in rocks or weeps out from underneath them. Tiny slakes her thirst.

Mt Erica summit.

Suddenly you break out into an entirely different landscape.

The dogs were as puzzled as we were by where the stream at Talbot Peak was flowing from!

Remains of the old Talbot Peak hut, quite a pleasant campsite with a delightful mountain stream nearby.

An old sign at Talbot Peak still in miles! Signage used to be better in the past – usually reflective so you could even find your way in the dark as well you might need to in an area which can be beset by blizzard conditions at any time of the year!

The plateau is easy walking. Surprisingly flat, in fact.

The path is wide and well maintained. Many places two can walk abreast.

Here and there are small clearings inviting solitary camps if you have thought to carry enough water from the last supply.

Huge granite boulders are common all over the plateau. It would not have been so pleasant on the day they were falling from the sky!

In many places the terrain and vegetation are clearly windswept. It us a good walk to carry a few extra tent pegs.

There are many lovely scenes to greet the eye.

As you cross the plateau you get only occasional glimpses of what would be a magnificent view if only they would cut all the wretched trees down!

One wet night I camped right across the track in my hammock. It rained during the night turning the track into a stream 150mm deep. Yet I stayed dry – one of the advantages of hammock camping. During the night it was so humid that a light rain fell under my hammock tarp. The DWR on my sleeping bag handled it fine.

Mt St Gwinear track intersection looking towards Mt St Gwinear.

View towards Mt St Gwinear from the track intersection. Water can be obtained from the North Cascade Creek below.

Mt St Phillack (cairn) the highest point on the plateau.

Phillack Saddle just before the turn-off to Baw Baw is a fine place for an overnight camp. Water on the South side.

This is the real turn-off to Baw Baw a hundred metres or so past Phillack Saddle heading West. The old track exited right at the saddle but is unmaintained and well-nigh impassable today (though scenic). Whereas it takes about 1.5 hours to walk across the new route it takes twice as long on the old.

PS: My thanks to Gerard White for some of the preceding photos.

Telstra NextG mobile phone works most places across the Plateau.

Maps for this section:

Mostly Walhalla North T8122-2-N and part of WalhallaSouth T8122-2-S and Avenza Pdf App.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-two-yallourn-north-to-wirilda-park/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-three-wirilda-to-moondarra/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-four-moondarra-to-erica/

See also Upper Yarra Track Winter Route:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/western-tyers-river-great-for-crays/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-western-tyers/

http://www.finnsheep.com/THE%20UPPER%20YARRA%20WALKING%20TRACK.htm

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-three-wirilda-to-moondarra/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-four-moondarra-to-erica/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-five-erica-to-walhalla/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-st-gwinear-track-junction-to-whitelaws-hut/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-summary-cumulative-distancestimes/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-osheas-mill/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-beautiful-world/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-caringal-scout-camp-tyers-junction/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-morgans-mill-skinners-camp/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-to-tanjil-bren/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/kirchubel-if-you-go-nowhere-else-in-the-world-at-least-go-here/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-downey-to-newlands/

07/02/2016: Della: Steve and I, with Tiny and Spot, spent the last 2 days walking over the Baw Baw Plateau from Baw Baw across to Newlands Road on the Upper Yarra Walking Track. It was a delightful walk and we selected good weather for it (which is needed!). One section on the first day was particularly hard-going, and only on the second day did we discover that we had taken an old, heavily overgrown route to Phillack saddle instead of the (apparently!) new route which now exists. Computer maps are not always up to date! It was beautiful, but daunting. We will return to try out the new route another time! The second day's walk from Phillack Saddle to Newlands Road was lovely and good walking, apart from the last couple of kilometres where the track was overgrown with seasonal weeds. A beautiful trip overall!

Mueller's cairn, Baw Baw summit. Leaping dogs!

Baw Baw, Mueller's Lookout. Love the bearded fence!

Old (wrong) Baw Baw to Phillack Saddle track. The track is well below the chest height of the vegetation.

But even wrong tracks have their bonuses. This is indeed a splendid vista. Freeman's Flat.

Phillack Saddle: first night's camp. Dogs being helpful. Tiny went to bed before the tent was up!

Tiny and me warm in in our tent.

Mount Whitelaw hut ruin. Lunch, day 2.

Love this pic that Steve took! He was going to snap this fairly mundane rock when the 2 dogs leapt on top and made the picture a winner!

Great scenery. Spot leaping ahead.

Spot leading the way.

Mobile Phone works most places along the top of the Baw Baw Plateau.

Vicmaps: Walhalla North T8122-2-N & Noojee North T 8122-3-N

WARNING: The Vicmaps incorrectly locate the trail from Baw Baw to St Gwinear as coming off the 'Village Trail' at Baragwanath Flat: This is the old trail which is well-nigh impassable (though we did!). The new (well-maintained) trail begins a little west of there and exits onto the Alps Walking Track West of St Phillack Saddle (where there is an excellent campsite with water), not right at the saddle as does the old trail. Warning 2: Trails down from the Alps Walking Trail to Newlands Road: there is only one trail, not two as shown on the Vicmaps. It is an old gently sloping forestry road approx 7 metres wide. In places it is a little overgrown (mostly with annual weeds), but easy to follow. I marked it with coloured tape every half a km or so. The beautiful 3 km down to Newlands Rd will likely take you 1.5-2 hours. NOTE: There is a good camp with water on this old road as it crosses the diminutive Thomson River (here just a brook) about .5 km off the main Alps Trail. After hitting Newlands Rd you can camp on the side of the road every time it crosses the river or is near enough to the river for water (lots). About a km before the end of Newlands Rd after the last Thomson River crossing (with its 'No Camping' sign - ignore), there is a track off to the North which leads to a beautiful dam about half a km away full of trout with delightful campsites. This is the last good campsite with water before you get to Toorongo (Link Rd)

02/02/2016: Upper Yarra Track: St Gwinear Track Junction to Whitelaw’s Hut:

The route along the tops is a delightful mix of alpine heath and snow gums. Every couple of kms you will find a small stream (sometimes to the side of the track) with fresh water. For example there is water near the St Gwinear turnoff, just after Mt St Phillack, at Mustering Flat and in the valley next to the Mt Whitelaw Hut site. Gerard White and his partner Bridgette kindly shared these photos from January 2015. Near Mt St Phillack:

Most times of the year (save winter) there is a riot of wildflowers

These lovely little fellows close up.

The path is well defined and maintained.

With many things of interest on all sides.

The grass is well clipped by small herbivores whom you may see morning/evening.

Large granite tors are a feature of the Baw Baws.

There are some lovely vistas.

As the evening shadows lengthen.

Some of these prostrate plants amongst the snow gums are dwarf native pines.

Whitelaws Hut site. There used to be four huts: the first at the Yarra Falls, the second in Newland Rd, the third at Mt Whitelaw, the fourth at Talbot Peak (Mt Erica). Walkers coming from Melbourne used to stay at McVeighs Hotel (now under the Yarra dam) the first night out, and were in Walhalla on the sixth night.

A shame these huts were destroyed by the 1939 fires and never rebuilt. They were quite large, had concrete floors and fireplace, bunks, pots, pans, crockery. Delightful spots to stay as you journeyed along. Still camping out today is not without its pleasures.

Many pleasant views around the hut.

As you lie abed, this is the view of the sky you see.

Water can be obtained from this stream nearby.

Snow gums are very slow growing. Some of these trees are very old.

The path continues on towards its turn-off to Newlands Rd in about 2 km.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-two-yallourn-north-to-wirilda-park/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-three-wirilda-to-moondarra/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-four-moondarra-to-erica/

Mobile Phone works beautifully until you plunge downhill towards the Thomson River. SMS may still work. You will come back into mobile range after you leave Walhalla and begin the climb up from the Thomson River after the Poverty Point bridge.

Mobile Phone works most places along the top of the Baw Baw Plateau.

Vicmaps: Walhalla North T8122-2-N & Noojee North T 8122-3-N

See also Upper Yarra Track Winter Route:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/western-tyers-river-great-for-crays/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-western-tyers/

http://www.finnsheep.com/THE%20UPPER%20YARRA%20WALKING%20TRACK.htm

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-three-wirilda-to-moondarra/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-four-moondarra-to-erica/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-five-erica-to-walhalla/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-summary-cumulative-distancestimes/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-ada-tree-to-big-pats-creek/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-osheas-mill/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-beautiful-world/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-caringal-scout-camp-tyers-junction/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-morgans-mill-skinners-camp/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-to-tanjil-bren/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/kirchubel-if-you-go-nowhere-else-in-the-world-at-least-go-here/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-downey-to-newlands/

02/02/2016: Upper Yarra Track: Ada Tree to Big Pat’s Creek:

As you can see the track is well made, delightful and easy to follow from the Ada Tree all the way to Warburton, with numerous signposts. If you have a couple of days to spare, this is a pleasant jaunt. You can turn it into a loop: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/ada-tree-loop-walk-4-days/ Gerard White and his partner Bridgette completed this section of the walk back in July 2015 (even encountering snow at Starlings Gap!) and have kindly provided the photos below:

The Ada Tree is huge,

With a tiny crown typical of these giant Mountain Ash.

Many photo ops along the trail. Hobbits would like this.

A few stream crossings which do not even daunt Jack Russells – though they may need a raincoat in the wetter weather. See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/tyvek-jack-russell-rain-coat-13-grams/

You pass the remnants of a number of old timber settlements, eg ‘The New Ada Mill’,

What a colossal log jam

And again. Fortunately you don’t have to scramble over it.

You can gently tiptoe round it.

Wondrous how the memories of yesteryear meld into the forest.

The turnoff to the Walk into History (High Lead) trail.

Jack Russels always lead the way.

Ruins of an enormous drum used for winch logging.

And an old steam boiler

From Starlings gap it is 9 km to Big Pats creek camp ground.

Starlings gap is quite beautiful, and can be reached by car for day walks..

With delightful facilities.

Lots of logs to sit on. Picnic tables, fire pits.

Even a light dusting of snow in July.

A beautiful track leads along the river towards Warburton.

Fringed by some splendid timber.

Delightful mossy logs.

A simply beautiful stream.

Plenty of crays here.

The track is an old timber tramway.

The track begins/ends here.

Big Pats Creek.

Turnoff to/from Big Pats Creek. A pleasant stroll into Warburton: 6-7 km, say 2 hours.

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-two-yallourn-north-to-wirilda-park/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-three-wirilda-to-moondarra/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-four-moondarra-to-erica/

See also Upper Yarra Track Winter Route:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/western-tyers-river-great-for-crays/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-western-tyers/

http://www.finnsheep.com/THE%20UPPER%20YARRA%20WALKING%20TRACK.htm

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-three-wirilda-to-moondarra/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-four-moondarra-to-erica/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-five-erica-to-walhalla/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-st-gwinear-track-junction-to-whitelaws-hut/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-summary-cumulative-distancestimes/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-osheas-mill/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-beautiful-world/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-caringal-scout-camp-tyers-junction/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-morgans-mill-skinners-camp/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-to-tanjil-bren/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/kirchubel-if-you-go-nowhere-else-in-the-world-at-least-go-here/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-downey-to-newlands/

01/02/2016: Upper Yarra Track Sidetrip: Horseshoe Tunnel/Coopers Creek

Only a bit over a km from Platina Station on the walk from Erica to Walhalla you can take this lovely walk down to the historic Horseshoe Tunnel. The tunnel was created over a century ago to divert the river so the dry river bed could be sluiced for gold. The sidetrip takes about 1.5 hours (or several days if you decide to camp out!) This early section is fringed with wild cherries. Seats are provided at strategic intervals for the weary traveler.

The track passes through a beautiful fern gully as it zig zags down the hill to the river.

There is some good timber along the way.

At the bottom there is this delightful picnic table and informative signs. You could easily camp right here. There is a fireplace as well.

You can see the river exiting from the tunnel if you stand on the table – as I did for this shot.

Close up it looks much fiercer.

You walk alpong the dry river bed to the inlet.

As usual Spot leads the way. Plenty of places you could camp along here.

The track is fringed with lots of wild mint which casts up a delightful aromatic fragrance – another memento of the pioneer women of yesteryear.

You would not want to accidentally fall into the inlet. You would be pretty sore and sorry by the time you came out the other side – if you lived to tell the tale at all! Apparently on the day it opened the builder, his wife and children were swept through it – and they survived!

There is a beautiful beach both at the inlet and the exit – lovely places for a swim on a hot day.

Spot and Tiny were more interested in lunch than in the tunnel – background.

This shaggy local barely noticed us as we passed.

Coopers Creek is also only a couple of km from Platina Station. Excellent canoeing and swimming.

And extensive camping opportunities (with toilet facilities).

The Vicmap for this section is Walhalla South T8122-2-S

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-two-yallourn-north-to-wirilda-park/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-three-wirilda-to-moondarra/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-four-moondarra-to-erica/

See also Upper Yarra Track Winter Route:

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/western-tyers-river-great-for-crays/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/the-western-tyers/

http://www.finnsheep.com/THE%20UPPER%20YARRA%20WALKING%20TRACK.htm

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-one-moe-yallourn-rail-trail/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-update-section-three-wirilda-to-moondarra/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-four-moondarra-to-erica/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-section-five-erica-to-walhalla/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-summary-cumulative-distancestimes/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-osheas-mill/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/a-beautiful-world/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-caringal-scout-camp-tyers-junction/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-morgans-mill-skinners-camp/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-western-tyers-to-tanjil-bren/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/kirchubel-if-you-go-nowhere-else-in-the-world-at-least-go-here/

http://www.theultralighthiker.com/upper-yarra-track-winter-route-downey-to-newlands/

21/01/2016: Upper Yarra Track: Section Five: Erica to Walhalla:

12 km – @ 4 hours.

It is 2 km (a bit over half an hour) along the rail trail to the Tyers-Rawson Road or Knotts Siding. The trail exits right at the Walhalla turn-off. There is an information board opposite. It is very easy walking having been an old railway line. It is about 7 km (1.5-2 hours) from there to Thomson Station where you can catch a train sometimes into Walhalla. The times are on the noticeboard: Wed, Sat, Sun Public & Xmas school holidays about three times a day. It costs $15-20, but you may be lucky: http://www.walhallarail.com.au/index.php?EXP=697

Half way (3 km) along the trail (Platina Station – shelter hut) you can turn off and drop down (2 km) to Coopers creek on the Thomson where there is a popular camp ground (toilets, water). The hotel there is now (unfortunately) closed.

From Platina Station you can also take an (approx ½ hour each way) excursion to the ‘Horseshoe Tunnel’ (http://www.visitbawbaw.com.au/walking-cycling/horseshoe-bend-tunnel) a river diversion put in during the early C20th to extract gold from the stream bed (Toilets, water, camp). The whole river was intended to flow through, it thus granting access to any alluvial gold in the river bed.

From Thomson Station to Walhalla Station along the rail trail (watch out for trains!) is about 4 km (1 hour). Walking is not allowed on the railway line. You can walk along the ‘Alpine Walking Track’ what used to be (part of) the Poverty Point Tramline (as we did), or the Mormon Town Track& Telecom Tracks or along the main road. Both start on the true left bank immediately you cross the bridge across the Thomson. There is a trail on either side of the river upstream of the Thomson road bridge. The one on the West bank can be used to access the township of Rawson just couple of kms away (store, hotel – weekends, accommodation etc) , or you may use it if you are avoiding Walhalla and/or walking across the Baw Baw Plateau (in the winter) perhaps. See Winter Route.

The trail passes though some magnificent timber (huge mountain ash, vast tree ferns, etc – with magnificent views down to the mighty Thomson River. The trail passes a magnificent dam ten minutes out of Erica. There is also water at Micah Creek between Knotts Siding and Platina (scramble down the gully on the uphill side). You could camp there on the side of the track – as with many spots long the track. Between Thomson Station and Walhalla the track crosses two side gullies which often have water. The trail is wide enough to set up a tent whilst still allowing others to pass. There are few walkers. Lots of people used to camp on the ‘beach’ at the bottom of Stringers Gully (opposite Thomson Bridge/Station ie East bank). You would have to scramble down off the main road after you had crossed the bridge as they seem to have removed the vehicle track…

The township of Walhalla (General Store, Hotel, camp ground, accommodation, etc) is a further 1 km (15 minutes) North from the railway Station up the main street. The Upper Yarra and Alpine Walking Tracks start/end opposite the General Store & Post Office where you will see a huge set of stairs ascending the mountain towards the Long Tunnel Mine. The tracks are not signposted at the main road (mysteriously) but there are signs about 100 metres up the hill, though none mention the Upper Yarra Track! Walhalla seems to be suffering from a fit of amnesia regarding this iconic track, so important to its existence for so long!

There is plenty to see and explore in and around Walhalla. You may want to spend a few days thereabouts. If you have never been there before you are going to be astonished by the beauty (and history) of this quaint old gold mining town nestled in the deep valley of Stringers Creek. Take a look at the cemetery and cricket ground. Maybe do a tour of the Long Tunnel mine. Most of the buildings are authentic mid C19th. Heading out of Walhalla you can divert via Rawson to pick up additional supplies if needed before you tackle the beautiful and awesome Baw Baw Plateau. For example, a side trip via Happy-Go-Lucky to Bruntons Bridge (water, toilets camps) is highly recommended.

The Thomson River is a wonderful canoeing experience (beginning at the Thomson dam outfall). It is 3-4 days of delightful white water interspersed with serene long pools and many campsites before you reach Cowwarr Weir. A day from the dam to the Thomson Bridge. Half a day from Thomson Bridge to Coopers Creek. The section between the Thomson Bridge and Coopers Creek contains a river diversion known as the Horseshoe Tunnel which is not canoeable, requiring a portage of over 1 km (there is a track - easy if you are packrafting!) From Coopers Creek to Bruntons is about half a day, another two days from Bruntons on. See: http://www.theultralighthiker.com/canoeing-the-thomson-river-gippsland-victoria/ & http://www.theultralighthiker.com/videos/thomson-river-canoe-trip-2006-complete/ (one hour video)

The trail begins just as you enter Erica on the East side of the road opposite the hotel next to a shelter, convenience stop and caravan park and these mementoes of the region's logging history.

Right on the outskirts of Erica the trail plunges from lush green paddocks replete with fat kine into the enfolding forest.

Minutes out of Erica a lovely dam makes for a refreshing rest stop.

Straightaway you plunge into magnificent mountain ash country: this species is the tallest tree/plant in the world.

The trail is in wonderful condition.

As always the Jack Russels Spot and Tiny lead the way.

Through beautiful tree fern tunnels.

Along the way a very late summer foxglove in a shady nook is a touching reminder of the C19th goldfields women who followed their menfolk to the ends of the earth.

After about 40 minutes the track crosses the Tyers-Rawson Rd to this information point, formally Knotts Siding.

Once again you are plunged into magnificent ash and tree fern. As we were walking this section we heard a sound like a cannonade as one of these giants crashed unexpectedly to the ground. This happens often over summer. Gums are ‘self-pruning’ – a dangerous habit should you be foolish enough to camp underneath one!

The track is wide enough most of its length that two can walk abreast.

After Micah Creek (water, camp) Platina Station marks the turn off for Coopers Creek campground a couple of kilometres away and/or the Horseshoe Tunnel.

The Horseshoe Tunnel diversion track below: as you can see an easy portage if you are packrafting the Thomson.

There are many glimpses of the mighty Thomson River through a screen of trees.

It is a lovely wide well-graded track: easy walking. Spot, as usual is out in front.

Many mementoes of the old Moe-Walhalla line along the way. A fallen bridge.

Abandoned railway tracks.

Road and rail bridges span the river at Thomson Station. You can see from their height how far this river can rise.

The Thomson is a beautiful river to canoe: view upstream from the Thomson road bridge towards the dam (starting point).

After crossing the Thomson, the Mormon Town track on a dry ridge marks a change in vegetation to peppermint gums.

The Australian bush is always a riot of wildlowers. Indeed very few places offer the bewildering array of species you find all about you here.

Native Bugle flower.

Native trigger flower: a carnivorous variety.

This is a wild cherry. It is a parasitic plant with an edible fruit (hence the name). It is only one of two trees in the world which bears its nuts outside its fruit (hence ‘exocarpus’), the other being the pecan.

The Poverty Point tramline was in many places hacked out of a near vertical hillside. The main road is about fifty metres below - straight down!

Early glimpses of Walhalla through the trees: below the new 'Visitor's Centre'.

Early settlers could not quite believe Australian Eucalypts, a dominant genera in today's landscape as they kept their leaves whilst shedding their bark. Another annoying habit they have is turning their leaves to avoid the sun, thus casting little shade on a hot day.

There are some majestic examples in the wetter gullies. Hard to believe that a hundred years ago there was not s single tree growing within thirty kilometres of Walhalla - so great was its voracious appetite for wood! They are quite quick growing. Trees which sprang up from seeds after the 1939 fires had trunks which made a single semi-trailer load a mere fifty years later.

Spot really enjoys a walk. He is way ahead of Della here.

The road goes ever on and on...That is bark on the track, though we did see a small snake and a water dragon at the river crossing – and at least fifty species of birds!

Someone had removed one of the forbidden things on the sign. Tiny cannot believe it was 'dogs'. We saw indications that both horses and pushbikes have also ‘strayed’ onto this lovely track. Someday no doubt such misdeeds will be a capital offence! Or forgotten quite.

At trail's end Walhalla lies nestled in the valley of Stringers Creek. The General Store is centre; the old Post Office on the right. The staircase on the far left marks the beginning/end of the trail.

See also:

The Vicmap for this section is Walhalla South T8122-2-S